Thank you very much I've been struggling for 2 days 🙏🙏🙏💪💪

Pro Tip: put the Lugnuts on 2/3rds of the way to protect the threads just in case the rotor pops off very suddenly and scrapes the threads on the studs

Thank you for posting this video. I was hammering away with not a budge. I used this method on an 1999 Lexus but without the impact driver. Just used a ratchet and an open end wrench and came off with no problem. The passenger side was a little tougher so I used a second bolt through the other flange and “pop” it came right off.

Thanks Vic, you just saved me a big headache and a trip to the city

Hi, just want to thank you for your video. I used your method but with a manual ratchet and it worked great. Save me time money and frustration! Your video was straight and to the point. Thanks!

Worked for me, thanks for posting this.

Great video sir. My hole fell directly in middle of inside edge of rotor. It went in sideways and broke. Barely got it out. I had to use both holes and slide a strong but thin piece of steel between bolt and rotar so bolt would tighten straight. Tightened each a little at a time and they popped right off. Couldn’t have done it without your vid. Thank you!

Thank you Vic.. I have tried everything and this is the best starting point and effective. forget hammers, heat, penetrant

Thank you Vic, you made my day.

Perfect trick that did the job. Great job with the video!

Great tip. You may want to use a large diameter coin or something similar to distribute the pressure on the back side of the rotor by the bolt.

Great video! I just spent a few hours...just like you did...messing with a rear passenger side rotor on a 1996 Ford Explorer. From the shade beneath the truck, I watched your video, placed a steering wheel puller on the same knuckle where you placed the bolt, and it popped the first time...a few rotations of the rotor later, it came loose , and I started putting away my tools for tomorrow's new rotors. Thanks so much!

Thanks a lot I went through this yesterday trying to install rear hubs on my 2012 Nissan Armada

Thanks so much. You saved me hours of hammering and several cans of PB Blaster. A quick trip to the hardware store for the bolts and I popped them off. I used two bolts, for the upper and lower holes, for more brute force but maybe one could have done the job. 2004 F250 4WD front brakes.

I used metric bolts to remove stuck hub bearing on an impala.NEVER SAW ANYONE ELSE USE BOLTS TO REMOVE WHEEL HUB BUT IT WORKS EVERYTIME.

Great idea !! Thanks 👍

It worked👍, thanks. Great video

Swapping an axle assembly from a parts car onto my daily driver. Between a very stuck rotor and a very stuck driveshaft, it's been challenging. This trick and some heavy penetrant saved me so much time. Such a smart but simple hack! Thank you!

This method worked for me, thank you

Ty worked like a charm, effortlessly

This worked perfectly - thanks! I can add that releasing the parking brake makes this a lot easier if the rotor has a "drum in hat" =)

Dude thanks a lot you are amazing my friend. I wrestle with my rotor yesterday went to bed beat up today saw your video on my way to pick up my daughter. Got home tried your method and came out like butter. Thank you sir

Awesome, I'll remember your tip! Thanks.

awesome... I used my puller with the all tread and arbor and it worked

Thank you so much, saved my day. I was changing the breaks on my friend's Hyundai i30 and the rotors were sized so badly. This trick loosened them right up 👌👌😁🚗

Hi Vic. Great to meet you and your wife. I will be checking in on the progress of the 71 when I am riding my bike LOL. Cooper anti seize is your friend on brake rotors and misc other stuff. Take care. Rory

Slick trick, man.

good camera work thanks

Man thx Vic that will come handy great video

Works like a charm!!

Brilliant! Thank you! My 2018 Camry rear rotors were stuck. Nothing would get them off. I watched your video, and found a bolt and nut to use, and they came off quickly. Thank you for the help!

Same deal here but after removing the caliper and bracket a 24" pry bar on the knuckle popped my rotors off. Sometimes dust shield is in the way of those bolts.

Thanks, I really appreciate it you making this video. I too used PB blaster, a hammer, a hudge pry bar, MAPP gas, wouldn't even budge.

Thanks goood explanation

THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU SAVED MY GOD BLESS!!!

This did they trick! New power unlocked!

Ball peen hammer to the front typically works for me. A regular hammer and mini sledge don't work but the ball peen shakes the rust free and it gives way after half a dozen whacks or so.

Thank you man! I can't tell ya how many times I banged on it while screaming "SCREW IT!!" kind of ironic that, in the end I just calmly "SCREWED IT" off!? Ha! Thanx again!

Nor bad. Not bad at all. I appreciate the ingenuity. Adapt and overcome.

Thank you so much you made my job 1000% easier again thank you for your efforts 👌

Thanks a lot

I tried penatrating oil set for an hour then hammered 50 times it would not come off. Seen the bolt trick. 6 times tightening and turning router with socket driver it loosened up🤩 thanks all you KZfaqrs with the videos

Good tip, i need to change my Rotors that I know are siezed on.

Thanks

What size bolt is that?

Doing the rear sportage 2011 rotors, tried to release the parking brake shoes through the inspection hole but the adjuster wheel is seized even with penetrating oil, I’m at a loss of how to get the rotor off

I also had the same problem. After I called a friend of mine to help me with the stuck rotors, I greased all the contact housing surface with copper grease. So next time brake rotors will come out easily.

Toyota and Honda have tapped holes to help you take your rotors off with a bolt. I'm surprised other manufacturers don't have that feature.

Excellent! A poor man's press!

Nice solution!.... and by the way they make a 10 ton hydraulic version of the three armed puller that would have worked.... but the bolts are way cheaper!! 10 ton $99 at HFT... in your world princess auto

Thanks. I'll give it try

Genius!!!

Braking caliper backing

It looks like you chose a bolt slightly smaller than the size of the carrier bolt hole. My first thought is if there is any chance you could strip or just mar the carrier knuckle threads doing it this way using that impact driver, since you really can’t guarantee the bolt threads won’t come in contact with the carrier knuckle threads.

What size and length of the bolt did you use?

There’s should also be a hole for a bolt on the hat if the rotor makes life a lot easier

Easy because you did already the hard part baging, lubrucating and heating before you use that bolt method. Anyway nice video.

Great video man but my question is does this trick only work for rotors that are getting replaced?

What do you do Windows doesn't work? Mine are very stuck.

I would definitely use it for rotors I was scraping. But I would be concerned about damaging the backside of rotors I need to reinstall and keep using.

If you do a LOT of these, I'd invest in a large rotor puller. Ebay around $120 bucks.

what size bolt

Hopefully the caliper mounting hole won't break off the knuckle!

Hey Vic don’t you realize there’s two small holes in the rotor front area ,where you can insert a bolt and apply pressure by turning the bolt,to pop the rotor off…

wheel bearing could pop out...also...put nuts on rotor.....drop rotor face down... on studs rotor popped off my raam1500

I’ve tried everything so I’m hoping that this will work 😢

I use a touch hammer you name it omg it’s just stuck

Thanks now I have a bent caliper housing it’s a disaster. I showed this video to an actual mechanic and he laughed at this. He said there’s only one way rotors come off and that’s brute force with a hammer. I caution anyone who wants to try this.

This doesn’t work on some vehicles like Fords. That rotor is pooched anyway as the inside surface is shot.

Took off the wheel bearing With the rotor attached it accidentally dropped it on the studs and it came off....

Works okay if you can rotate the rotor … like you can on a front rotor on a hub. When it’s a rotor held in place by a handbrake shoe as well as corrosion … not so easy!

So it's spinning and damaging the inside of the rotor....I don't recommend but whatever works.

Small piece of wood on backside and hammer

Not all rotars rotate commpletely...

and pray the flange dosnt break

I would be careful putting too much pressure on that aluminum steering knuckle. If you had long bolts with the same thread as the threads in the steering knuckle you would not need the nut and washer, just screw the bolt in.

Your idea didn't work for me, but a pry bar behind the rotor did work. I turned the steering wheel for better access and braced the bar between the brake mount and the rotor. After a few attempts, it came off.

Really buddy...I'm a mechanic and I do brakes 5 to 8 times a week! Hit the damn thing! Never had one I couldn't get off in 10 secs! I live in New England and work on plow trucks and regular vehicles!