rodneyhitz Thank you for the awesome comment. It really makes it worthwhile to make a video and have it help someone out so much!! Thank you for sharing your story. Even though the videos are older I still keep up to date as possible with comment replies. It was tough for a while because I wasn't getting notifications for my video comments. If you haven't​ already repaired the connectors/connections I suggest soldering the connections as well as crimping. The Molex crimping tool that is supposed to be used for these AND the older GM PCM/ECU terminals is VERY, VERY, expensive. We had to purchase one for our shop at work (robotic applications use almost identical Molex pins) and it was over $550. However, it makes the exact perfect crimp. Some of the aftermarket ones, actually, pretty much ALL of them, don't properly crimp the insulation tangs and the wire is left incredibly insecure! So soldering them is just some extra insurance against poor connections and wires pulling out. If you need any help ID'ing terminals or connector bodies just let me know. I have quite a bit of resources on industrial/commercially​ used wire termination and connection products!

You're welcome, glad it helped! Technically there is a "tool" to take these out bit it's SO much faster to remove them this way because you don't have to struggle with stuffing the tool into each hole. Especially if you are repinning and entire plug!

+Daniel Jue Glad it helped you. Sorry to hear you broke the piece too. I haven't had any issues with mine. Been running for 7,000+ miles

Glad this could help you out! Got any videos of it?

@@OverRevvedRacing Can i remove antitheft on e38 ecu with ls droid like the older ecus??

Did you find any luck

They make a special tool but this is quick and easy. Haha

No, I don't think it's ready yet

It is if you plan on re-pinning the harness rather then soldering it. It also makes it much easier to untangle the wiring with all the plugs still connected, rather then cutting the harness to pieces. Then you can lay out the harness possibly not even needing to lengthen anything. You also won't necessarily need all of the wiring connections on a swap so removing the pin/wire looks a lot nicer and is less likely to cause a future issue then leaving a cut wire behind.

Thanks for explaining Craig. Kia Sorento with an LS???? That is freaking sweet! I'm putting a 5.3 into my Volvo 960. The wiring is the most intimidating part of the swap to me. The physical install of the engine and tranny is not a problem, but man when I look at that anaconda of wires leading from the engine - my knees get weak. LOL. I have to send the ECU off to delete the VATS, remove all the emissions and automatic transmission programming as I'm running an old school manual. I figure I'll do as much as I can and if worse comes to worse I'll drag it to a shop to handle the electrical stuff if I can't.

"liked" your page! Awesome!

Is it the same for a camaro?

Yes, if you check out the other videos on my channel you can see the details. It's a 6.0L (Ly6) I swapped into my KIA Sorento SUV. It's also sporting the 6L90e transmission.

@@OverRevvedRacing is this a gen IV harness??? What diagram did you use to find out what wires to delete? I have a 2007 suburban engine and harness that I'm going to start on this winter with very few KZfaq videos to help with what wires I need and don't need.

@@papergatorzfedducca7998 I found the harness for the 2009 Silverado 2500 that the engine came out of. The wires I didn't need I picked out of the diagram myself. Basically leaving all the engine to computer communications wires intact. I got rid of the wires that I didn't need. For example, the transfer case wiring, the wires for the alarm system, fans (I used different plugs and integrated the KIA stock relays in those).

@@OverRevvedRacing ok thank you bro.

@@papergatorzfedducca7998 you're welcome. If you have any specific questions I can see if I can point you in the right direction. Look me up on FB www.FaceBook.com/LSxSorento

Ray Hobson No reason to be a jerk, if you already know how to do it and have the "proper tool" then feel free to use it. This way works absolutely perfectly without having to buy some over priced tool.

I don't think so. I have only ever used HPtuners though so I'm not 100% sure.

@@OverRevvedRacing after removing the vats the engine should run normally with drive by wire??

Assuming the tune is the proper one for the engine, yes. VATS is the only thing that will stop it from running if the harness and tune are correct. I had issues with the DBW throttle body plug wiring. It wasn't the "normal" wire colors I found on Ls1Tech for the "LS family harness colors". There were a couple wires different on my specific throttle body because it wouldn't idle or take ANY throttle at first. Don't remember what exactly I had to change. It's been a WHILE.