Jeremy I just wanted to say thank you for posting! . It was really helpful. I removed the subframe exactly the way you did today. I plan on putting the new one in tomorrow. I'll report later how that goes. V6 Mercury Mariner AWD had a front tow hitch that I use for my snow plow. I was able to leave that on. It would have been a job in and of itself removing... I was able to remove the bolts at the very front of the vehicle on that crossmember and then using a pry bar and a hammer I was able to clear the single stud that it attaches to on the subframe. I like most of us watching these videos work by myself I had no help. I removed the lower control arms and sway bars to make the subframe lighter and easier to remove. I also liked how you left the rack and pinion because that also would have added weight to the subframe. I was able to lower it down without a jack. I am replacing the subframe with the car on front jack stands. (no lift). The rear tires remain on the ground. I was wondering if you had any trouble reinstalling the drivetrain with the bearings? I think I'm going to pull the rest of that drive train coming out of the PTO tomorrow and put the ball bearings together before I put it back in the vehicle. Anyway I will post again when I am finished in the hopes of helping someone else as you have helped me. 👏👏👏 Thank you!
@brianh385914 күн бұрын
Also just wanted to mention that the rack and pinion had a heat shroud around it on the passenger side that was attached by two plastic retaining clips to the subframe. Just pry them off the subframe and you will be able to separate the rack from the subframe with use of a small pry bar. 👌
@brianh385913 күн бұрын
So I was able to get the subframe back in today by myself. I'm certain it would be much easier with an extra set of hands however if you're by yourself what I did was place a bar over the engine compartment. I placed the bar on pads so they did not scratch the paint. I then attached a ratchet strap to the bar and around the subframe. I then lifted the subframe up to the rear of the powertrain and muffler using the ratchet strap and a jack. Once the subframe was high enough I was able to climb underneath. I was not able to exert enough force downward on the muffler and powertrain to get the subframe up in position. I then used a 2 x 4 from the passenger side and passed it through the fender well and was able to lift up on the 2 by 4 enough to tilt the engine enough on the two remaining motor mounts to get clearance for the subframe. I used a small ladder to hold the 2 by 4 in position. Getting the subframe in final position along with the rack and pinion and the transmission amount required an additional ratchet strap. The problem I was having was as I advanced the subframe the rack and pinion would slip out from underneath the subframe but once the rack and pinion was ratchet strapped to the subframe I was able to line up the transmission mounts as well as the final subframe mounts. I bought a new aftermarket subframe on Amazon. My recommendations would be to find a good used subframe from salvage or just go ahead and buy an oem subframe. The aftermarket subframe that I bought was bent when I received it. I lost a couple hours straightening the frame and painting it and getting the bolt holes to line up. It was doable but not worth the aggravation. The aftermarket subframe was not even close to the quality of the original equipment. The subframe was made in China. I'm not sure of the quality of the steel or the welds but I guess if I have to do it again in the future I already know how to do it. I have not seen any KZfaq videos on the installation of the subframe using Jeremy removal recommendations. Most videos recommend pulling the rack and pinion as a unit as well as the entire exhaust including the y pipes. I did take pictures and some video of the installation but have never posted on KZfaq before so I just wanted to share here in the comments in case someone is reading it. I encourage anyone who has a rusted out subframe to watch Jeremy's video and read the comments and you will be able to replace your subframe. Best of luck and thanks again Jeremy
@JimLambier7 ай бұрын
I appreciate you pointing out that the bolt that holds the rear of the subframe to the body is also the bolt that holds the rear of the control arm to the subframe. I'm getting ready to do this job and in preparation I was reading the repair manual. The instructions weren't making sense to me since I didn't realize that info on the bolt.
@Jeremyblevins420Ай бұрын
Also fyi you cannot order these bolts from the dealer anymore. You have to match them aftermarket
@user-od1bs4yi6m6 ай бұрын
That is so dangerous I don't get why ford doesn't recall this and put in a better solution
@beantown_billy24055 ай бұрын
Money
@Jeremyblevins420Ай бұрын
Completely 💯 agree. Hopefully this video gets more people pre-tripping before they drive their own vehicles.
@adammatson98858 ай бұрын
Thanks for posting. Question: did you have to support the engine at all? also, how long did this job take?
@beantown_billy24055 ай бұрын
I supported the oil pan with a jack and 2x10 board when I did mine. The subframe install/remove isn't that bad, but for me getting the rusty exhaust off was a nightmare. Also, when you drop the driveshaft, keep the long bolts partially inserted so you don't get a face full of 1" balls and grease
@Jeremyblevins420Ай бұрын
No I didn't actually. I left the other mounts attached at the top. I also had to push up on the engine in order to remove the subframe through the rear. It took me about 2 hours to do the work on mine but much longer to get the part from the scrap yard since I didn't have access to air or electricity for power tools. All in all maybe a week to do all the work.
@eletrixjuice1991Ай бұрын
doing the same thing price is ridiculous for a k frame .
@Jeremyblevins420Ай бұрын
$600 vs. $35 lol
@user-od1bs4yi6m6 ай бұрын
And the thing is expensive so it's like they did it on purpose
@Jeremyblevins420Ай бұрын
Right! New k-frame was about $600 for an aftermarket! The one I got from the salvage yard was $35! It pays off to know how to work on your own vehicles and home repairs. On that note I'll be adding more home repair videos as well.
@user-nx4rz9ld9o11 ай бұрын
How did you take the other end of the exhaust off?
@Jeremyblevins420Ай бұрын
Lucky the bolts @the manifold were not seized on and it didn't even require heat to remove bolts. I always use copper devil on exhaust fasteners so next time I have to remove it won't be another job in itself. But the rest of the exhaust was attached with hangers.