Thank you, hope it helps!

I agree with you a.c...! Please tell us how it went and if your JD is a 445. Thanks!

Good luck, I can't imagine what the labor fee would be, but whatever it is I don't have it haha.

Thanks!

Speak up can't hear you man

Very glad to hear!

what ended up being the leak on your rear end? I Have a 425 that is leaking on the left side as well, and my suspicion is the differential lock seal. But I can't really see up there.

Ultimately I really don't know, there was a lot of oil so I figured as long as i was going to remove the whole assembly I might as well replace the aging seals.@@flyweed

Great, thank you! I updated the parts list.

Lines were from JD even.

Great, good luck!

I agree, that bracket should be removed to avoid pinching/kinking the replacement seal. Glad it helped!

Very glad to hear. It is a bit tight working conditions, but can be done with a steady hand while in the frame.

Awesome, glad to hear it worked out!

Thank you. The bolt torques will vary depending upon location, but in general the main case bolts all require 25 Nm.

My 425 started leaking this year. JD wants $2600 to do all the seals 😂

I just double checked in the parts catalog, and it only shows 6 seals required for the charge pump, and not 7.

Thanks for the catch, I had to look it up again. Part # M806073

Certainly you can get some of the Deere parts on ebay, but it might help you to know many of the parts are the very same as the Tuff Torq K91 unit. Therefore parts for a K91 should also work. In fact you should be able to find a free K92 service manual pdf online. The pictures are very helpful, and I used it in addition to the Deere books.

I should have searched the comments better, seems it is Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket

Permatex's Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Liquid Sealant

Good luck! For me, tilting the whole axle backward a bit helped to work on the front, and a.so the removal of the components. During reassembly, it was necessary to tilt everything forwards, to keep all of the motor parts from falling to the ground. Other than that, the residual oil kept most everything together.

Interesting issue. You may want to try asking on the mytractorforum, under John Deere garden tractors: www.mytractorforum.com/forums/john-deere-forum.12/

I do not personally have those parts, but rear axles and complete assemblies can commonly be found on Craigslist. Also right now on ebay there are several available for around $50.

It is a seat from the newer X700 series tractors. They are expensive, but regularly turn up for good deals on ebay.

There are two books, the factory service and parts manuals.

Although the 445 is fuel injected, I would imagine the governor arrangement is similar to the 425, and I seem to remember the internal governor gear is plastic, so might be the culprit if it has failed. You might try searching or posting in the John Deere section of mytractorforum to see if others have had similar issues, and good luck!

I have the seals btw

Thanks, and yes the 425/445/455 are self bleeding. Just operate the drive, lift and steering a bit after refill, and recheck the level.

Thanks, and actually no mulch kit. I just do the standard deck adjustment from the manual, and keep the blades sharp.

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid, can be obtained from Napa and others, especially good for the brake cover which has no gasket.

It could be several things, 2 I would check for first are possible air in the system, or the safety switch is disconnected or broken.

I am experiencing the exact same issue of no fwd/reverse after replacing all of the seals from the video. When i hit either pedal i have hydraulic whine and it bogs the motor. If its air in the system how do i bleed it?

@@Shaggy-nn4xf you described exactly what I was experiencing. The bearings in the motor case assembly were not clicked on to the cage. So when I installed the bearings/cage loosely, the bearings came off the cage and wedged themselves in. I had to replace the piston assembly and also the motor case because they got damaged. Whatever you do, don’t keep trying to force the fwd pedal!

@@Shaggy-nn4xf I’m more than happy to give you more detail over the phone or email. This took me such a long time to diagnose. Maybe I can save you some time.

@@thomasubi8100 Thanks. I'm going to pull the motor case off again and investigate.

Correct, there was no gasket indicated for that location in the Deere literature, so I just used some Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. The K91 transmission manual states "Apply a bead of silicon sealant to brake cover mating surface of transaxle case.", so that is an option as well.

I know I had maintained the gear orientation in mine during reassembly, but it may not matter. There are a lot of seals in the charge pump, so it may be that one either fell out or got pinched. Here is a service manual for the Tuff-Torq K-92 which should show better illustrations of the parts: www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/45064883/k92-service-manual-pdf-tuff-torq-parts

Long shoot here with this being a year old. I am having this exact same issue. I do not have pressure to anything after doing this. How did you fix this issue? Thanks in advance.

I just did this too. My hydraulics work but the tractor doesn’t go forward or reverse. When I push the forward pedal it sounds like the pump is dead heading. Like something is locked.

@@trentonkern did you figure it out ?

It could be performed in a day. Of course it took much longer to source all the parts, and create a video of it, so probably a week for me. But an actual day's worth of work.

Yes, that is probably the first seal to fail of them all - on the left side where the brake linkage and diff-lock enters the casing. Diff. Lock seal - M806040 Brake shaft o-ring - CH10570

@@danielraible I appreciate that. I plan on just redoing all of it, but at least I know that it is not some random thing all around.

That is the Service Manual and Parts manual, both can be ordered from the dealer.

For Permatex Aviation gasket, you apply several light coats to each surface, and allow a few minutes for it to dry to a tack before assembling. I would recommend 24 hours for a complete cure before operating. Unfortunately there is no brake cover gasket on the left side.

Interesting. I did not need a gear puller, but in your case if the tips were bent during disassembly it would probably be wise to go ahead and replace the rings too.

@@danielraible I'm actually stuck at this point too. I can't get the cone off. I removed the large outer snap ring and the smaller inner snap ring that covers the bearing race. Is there something else? The cone pops out about 1/2 inch but can't get it to come any further. Is something lined up on the shaft that catches? I don't want to use a puller if it will damage anything. I saw in the video you set down two more rings after the large snap ring. Is that a washer or something? I don't see it in mine. Thanks for any insight.

Actually, I did take the smaller snap ring and flat washer out of cone. It pops forward and is loose from the body and will even spin 360 degrees around. It just seems like possibly the bearing race is caught on the groove the smaller snap ring sets into. I've been tugging and shifting it for quite a while and it doesn't seem to want to come off. It looks like it nearly just popped off for you. Very confused.

Just for anyone else having the same issue Alex and I had, here's what I found: For whatever reason when Daniel pulled his apart at this point, it just slid right off of the shaft. Mine didn't. There are two small snap rings on that shaft, not including the large one outside of the bearing race. You can see he is able to remove and reinstall the cone with that snap ring still in place midway down the shaft. Maybe some have a smaller opening in the end of the cone? It destroyed the snap ring coming off so I had to replace it. Part number 40M1823. For reassembly, I had to remove the bearings and washer, reinstall the cone, then put the snap ring on followed by washer, then bearings, then the second washer and second snap ring. Maybe it's a difference in 4WD vs 2WD? Not sure why it was so different. Hope that helps someone. Go ahead buy two snap rings while you're buying all of the gaskets. I couldn't see the inner snap ring while removing, not to mention be able to disengage it. I'm just routinely unlucky where it doesn't seem to go for me like it does in the videos I follow!

@@lorenjohnbailey6445 After the smaller shaft snap ring, there should be a washer, followed by the ball bearing, another washer and then a final snap ring on the motor shaft.

I've been using Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on everything, with good success.

I typically use Permatex Aviation Gasket on mating surfaces, including gaskets.

@@danielraible ok thank you. Great video, me and my son are going to tackle the whole job together soon on his.

@@VALERIO919 Great, and good luck!

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid, can be obtained from Napa and others, especially good for the brake cover which has no gasket.

@@danielraible Thank you Daniel!

Yes, Permatex aviation sealant.

For the rears I went with 26x12.200-12 Carlisle 2 Ply HD Field Trax tires with 24,26x12.00-12 Rubber Master Tubes with TR-13 valve stems.

18x8.50-8 Vredestein 6 Ply V61 Heavy Duty 5-Rib tires for the front, with Rubber Master 18x8.50/9.50-8 Tube with TR-13 valve stems.

HDAP, heavy duty all purpose

@@danielraible thank you! Those will look great on my 455!

I had ordered it from the local dealer a few years ago.

I tried to order the parts as kits where I could, and probably spend somewhere around $130, plus the added costs of replacement oil and filter. This job was more about spending the time.

My only complaint was there was literally no volume. I tried other videos and they all were very loud and had to be turn down. 🙉Hear No Evil ? Otherwise Your Tutorial was GREAT!

Yes, just the standard Permatex silver.

Great, thank you for the additional information and transcriptions! I've added them to the video description.

Trying to pull the transaxle out of my 455, do you have to disconnect the driveshaft from the front? The three screws, hate to pull things apart I can’t get back together Thanks

@@ronlegois8152 Believe what you are looking for is @18:18 You simply need to remove the bolt through the U-joint and the splined sections will seperate

@@ronlegois8152 Once you raise up the rear of the frame, and let down the transaxle by removing the electrical & control connections and 4 main bolts, the rear of the driveshaft will easily slip off the transaxle splined shaft once the u-joint bolts are loosened. It comes off very easily from the rear.