Amazing video and the reason I now have a working NS lite! For anyone wondering, I use an 858D SMD hot air rework station and I found that 480° on air flow 6.5 (around 60-70%) to be the sweet spot, although others may disagree 🙂

Be VERY careful to not hit the board with the heat gun from underneath. I lightly hit it twice by accident and knocked off a couple of capacitors, one of which is now long gone.

You make it look so easy I'm afraid to ruin the board if I do it wondering if I should send it into a professional

What air temp / flow rate?

I use the 862bd+ with about 450 degrees Celsius and around 55% airflow. But you need to heat the board for about 3-5 min until the connector is kinda swimming of then you can take it off the board.

Use thetmal tape underneath and top to cover components/conectors for avoid damage

i must admit I always successfully repair these similar.to this method, but I'm.going to try another way, ( melt the connector off from the top, apply leaded and reheat from the top, drop connector on, and reheat to finish from the bottom. I only say this, because I always lose or blow a couple of components off the other side. mainly the diodes, luckily I get them back on the pads. but surface tension isn't strong on those components for some reason

Might be a good practice to drop the FPC connector before heating. Just a hassle to balance properly continuing to heat board and tweeze drop your connector into a somewhat reasonable position. This obviously works but it has been easier in my experience to drop it first and then heat.

How many degrees must be the air flow?

How much temperature did u use can u help with it ... I've done it but didn't work same as u XD

What if you have a lot of components on the underside ?

Thanks - Strait to the Point i like it!

No matter how many of these repair videos I watch and how many times I attempt the fix myself, I just cannot get the board solder to melt from an underneath gun. I'm keeping the airflow at min and the highest I've gone on heat is 420c, as per recommended by another professional channel. I'm afraid to go higher because I don't want to damage the underneath components, but it just isn't melting. When you resolder your pads, what kind of solder are you using? Are you using a low-melt solder, or one with lead? Sadly, all I have on-hand is a flux-center, lead-free solder, which I'm starting to think may be the problem. The solder just won't melt, from applying heat from underneath. I was able to get it to work with a practice board, but just no luck on the Switch board. I've been trying to fix this on my days off for the last 2 weeks, and I'm starting to give up on fixing it myself, because despite imitating all of these videos to the best of my ability, it just isn't working. I was able to get the damaged part off with some struggle, but the new part won't even stick to the board, because I can't get the solder to melt against the new pins. Is the type of solder I'm using where I'm going wrong?

440 60% I use

Clean and neat! 👍👍👍

Is there an easy way to source the actual connector itself?

Need a smaller iron mate

How the components on the odher side not fell off?