Thanks Miguel. Glad to hear it!

The minimum power is an issue for me for sure, sometimes when using a large fill even at 0.1 it’s too bright indoors when shooting wider apertures and increased ISO’s to get the shutter speed I want. I’m not sure if a firmware update could allow for weaker output but it’d be massively appreciated. Probably strangely to some, I’d nearly hoped Elinchrom would release a speed light capable of a lower output to facilitate this request.

@@PeeGeeTips It is, in my opinion, one of the very weak point of the Elinchrom system. Most other systems can go down to 1/128, 1/256 or even 1/512 or less. It's not THAT important when you are selling a powerful strobe (500j or more) but it IS very important for small lights that are used for night shoots and interior shoots. Another weak point of the Elinchrom system is the inability to activate multiple groups, but turn off some. For example, having groups B and C on, but A and D off. However, Elinchrom Skyport is also one of the rare wireless trigger system that allows strobes on different power levels in the same group and all adjustable individually and this is a really strong point for them, in my opinion, and I love that feature. There are still workaround solutions for the high minimum power setting : you can use double or triple diffusion or ND filters on the lights, but it's far from convenient. I think Elinchrom painted themselves in the corner by adopting their way of displaying the power setting since it's not allowing them to go below 7j (0.1). The ONE having 5 stops of range and the THREE having 6 stops of range is not acceptable to me considering the price and the fact that many competitors are doing 9 stops or more on their small lights for way less money. And, by the way, I'm surprised that this is almost never discussed anywhere. I'm pretty sure it's just software limitation and could be fixed, but I'm no engineer, so I don't know. As I said, the Buff Celestial has 12 stops of range : going from 500j to 0.25j. And I think Buff is a way smaller company than Elinchrom. I still love Elinchrom and it will remain my main light system, probably for years to come. But I feel like every time they release a new product with big and obvious flaws, everybody online is excited and disregard these flaws, kinda like fanboys in the video game consoles world. It's kinda weird to say this, but I feel like the ONE and the THREE are some of their worst products ever, while the ELC 500, and by proxy the FIVE, are some of their best products ever : where they fixed the wonky baby pin mount, LED modeling lights is great even though not that powerful, very good screen and interface, HSS, TTL, etc.

Thanks! Did you mean Speed light? I use the groups like this. 1=Main, 2=FIll or Background, 3=Kicker, 4=hair. Rarely am I using a a background and a fill, but in those cases I just walk over and change it.

Thank you! I really appreciate it.

Thanks! And thanks for sharing.

Like A10 I mean!

🙏🏼🙏🏼yeah they are an additional cost and then they take up even more room in your bag.

Thanks Joe! The internal batter may be there to improve weather sealing, but regardless, powering it with a power bank is a great option. I have 5 of them and use them for everything I need to charge.

🙏🏼🙏🏼 Ok great. We can go over that soon.

Thanks Paul!

It’s supposed to be a simple repair like your cell phone, but they also say they have never had to replace one.

I used the Profoto beauty dish in this video.

Thanks Jefry! I appreciate that!

Great! I will work on that this year.

Thank you so much!

Thanks! Glad it was helpful.

Thanks Daniel. The D2s are good lights.

That’s Aaron! I can’t wait to see what you do with it.

There are universal triggers but if you want to use hss or ttl you will need a brand specific transmitter as you do with other brands.

This video will really help you to understand the flash duration section. How to Freeze Motion In the Photography Studio Using Flash kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j5OGrJyezJm4j6M.html

Sorry, all the flash duration numbers I mentioned are t.1. The chart for action shows it but not the normal chart.

Thanks. Sorry to hear that. Which head are you using and what is going on?

Thanks Keith! Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks Alex! I’ll work on that soon and add some Profoto lights to the mix too.

Thanks Alan! Glad you liked it.

Thank you. I’m sure you could use them for that but they don’t likely have fans as quiet as video lights and they’re going to be a lot dimmer than the lights I have from Nanlite.

Thanks Ray! I really appreciate it!

Absolutely. Adding flash to ambient like that in a small modifier shouldn’t be a problem with a small softbox. While I appreciated the built in sand bag and the light heads with the ELB like, not having any wires is it’s own type of freedom.

Thanks! I think that is a huge factor.

Thanks! After the test I did with the different Profoto light models and the modifiers, which I showed in this video, I decided that I really wanted to use pro heads and packs for most things. The most expensive pro heads I was willing to buy were pro 6 and 7 versions and the gear was probably 20-30 years old. When they started to fail I decided to pick the Elinchrom lights because they had the tubes exposed, the Sekonic light meter talks to the heads and the modifiers are great.

Thanks! I think I’ll be able to do it with a d2 and b1 x

Thanks! My deep octa 100 has been attached to my three with the included adapter for the last 5 days and counting!

@@JohnGress Good to know!

Yes they do!

These videos will help you recreate window light: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rteAZ659mbfNhXk.html This one is more advanced: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fM-la9Sqmb3VaHU.html

@@JohnGress Thank You. I'll check it out. I was most interested in the way you have the back light/hair light positioned. It's unlike anything I've seen you do. I'll be trying it today.

Oh I see yes this is an old video and I don't think I quite knew what I was doing. Large round hair lights like this can end up lighting the nose and forehead and thats why I typically use a strip.

@@JohnGress Gotcha. Either way, I liked the results shown in the video, so I tried it. As long as I kept the softlighter completely behind the subject there was no spill and yielded similar results on canvas.

This might give context. I use to try and use 150-190cm softboxes at f11 while using 100 ISO, which would lead me to using a 1200ws pack at full power. Over the past few years I have become more and more comfortable shooting at 200 or 400 ISO and f5.6-8.

Thank you! Maybe some day =)

@@JohnGress okay thank you sir

That would be great.

“Le” never mattered so much!

Thanks!

I think referring to the tables in my video will answer your question. So we are on the same page, every time the Profoto and Elinchrom lights drop 1 whole number you are reducing the lights output by half of the previous setting so power setting 5 on the Profoto and setting .3 on the Elinchrom light is 1/32 power. I will leave time stamps to the tables below, which is what I am referring to, not what I am talking about that those moments (I didn't listen, I just looked to see where the graphics were in the timeline). The WB difference over the range is quite similar in normal mode and it's more divergent in action mode.When looking at the THREE and the B10 over the same WS range (1/1-1/32) in normal / standard mode there is a 125-degree swing with he B10 and a 164-degree swing with the THREE 11:06. In Freeze / Action mode (1/1-1/32) the B10 swings 849-degrees and the THREE swings 1398-degrees, but if you remove the lowest stop of power from consideration, the Profoto range is 524-degrees and the Elinchrom light swings 744-degrees (1/1-1/16) 10:10.

Hi @@JohnGress, I did a another round of testing after a talk with Elnchrom. This time first on the reflector side. I tested first with two Elinchrom 18cm reflectors. When I switched them there was an average 100k degree difference. Then I did the test with to profoto OCF Magnum zoom. Now the results on the lights in basic got a bit closer on the “Base” white balance, the B10 was now on the whole power scale (measured at 10, 4.8 and 0.1 (I always use the 10 scale)) in normal mode within 150k. The Three was still in the 6050 to 6450 range in normal mode between 4.8 and 10, so the stated 150k difference on all modes is not there. Even on the same power setting it is over 150k degree swings but under 200 while the B10 keeps within 25k swings. . Now I also did the “Bare Bulb” test as stated by Elinchrom, with NO modifiers.. Now the b10 again was around 6100k/6200. Now the Three ranged between 6039k on lowest power to 6388k and these were mid-shoot, and I waited every time for the ready beep. Now on speedmode the highest was 7788 on the low setting and 6373 on high power. So on speed mode the Three has major swings. While again the B10 keeps it within 250k. Now on HSS full power, it went from 5954 to 6012 and on low power 5831 tot 6006 So on the setting which is the most terrible for your flash it is most stable…? But then as you say it is stable but you measure 744-degree swings, IMHO these are major and I would call that stable.... used the Broncolor for a while and these kept with 25k... Now that is that I call stable/consistent.... But must say like the outer bulb better then the Profoto flathead... So will try them for a while, But I would call them stable on white balance...

By swing I was referring to the wb from low power to high power. I am working on another set of tests with a Sekonic spectrometer. And I did not see a significant difference from one flash to the next at the same power.

@@JohnGress Interesting. How I am testing now is, taking 10-15 shots at a colour checker with the camera and everything on a tripod, firing from capture one so the camera doesn't move even a bit. That check the WB number on the same spot. and have them listed and the average. On average, the Three had a difference of about 400 degrees between the highest and lowest power settings on the normal channel; on average, one was about 100k higher than the other. The B10 stayed with the highest and lowest recorded WB within 150k within the whole power range... So my thoughts based on what Elinchrom says on the website with the colour insistence of 150k with all modes and power setting was that it would be as consistent as the B10, but clearly, it isn't and now I am wondering are my units wrong or is the are the specs worng, and based what you are saying and Elinchrom also admitting that there statements are wrong or not clear... the Three are by far not as consistent as claimed...

How do you think I did the brightness tests?

@@JohnGress “The main reason I switched to Elinchrom is because I loved their modifiers.”

I still love my profoto lights!