glad i could help!

Hope you enjoy it!

yes great pump

yes this works great. I have never had too much pressure.....so many heads to drive.

I had an existing 10' well...so put a 1 1/4" shallow point and drove it right throught the 4" PVC and used a sledge hammer and pipe cover to drive the pipe down another 5'. I have sandy soil, some rocks but it goes down about 1/8" per hit once you hit water... then I developed it with a compressor just blowing air from the bottom and also reverse pumping water down the pipe with a 2" mud sucker gas pump. still running great mid summer... i know water table is lowering too and still great pressure and throw.

I have constant 20+ GPM water flow with a 5' galvinized point at 15' down. pump is the RJS-100-PREM i bought it here: www.waterpumpsdirect.com/Red-Lion-RJS-100-PREM-Water-Pump/p57944.html

drove a new PVC well... see it here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6p1ZrmdrtzGp6c.html

@@EricSilvaskiingmadman "developed it?" Not sure what this means, but we have right now, 6ft of clay in our pipe but are getting water above that (we are using the pipe that has the special point and holes on the end of the first pipe in the hole, no pvc or anything like that (we're in the frost zone). We have this exact same pump and are about to see if we are in enough water yet or not by hooking up the pump. What do we do to get the clay out of the pipe? Do we need to do that before turning on the pump? This guy that puts in sandwells professionally said the pump will pump out the sediment in the pipe so he did not tell us we needed to clear anything out first, but I am not sure... maybe I should call Red Lion and ask them..............

@@hollyburns8568 Yes developed it I did for hours... But it wasn't really needed. It most likely will not pull out clay.. you may have to break that up I threw a compressor pump line down into the well with a little fitting at the end to add weight and blue air into the bottom of the pipe and it pushes water back and then water comes flying back up... Usually with a lot of sand. Even just shutting off the pump on and off a lot cycling it, will develop the well and pull out sand. If I'm using a little hose off the system and not pulling enough water it will cycle a lot cuz it doesn't need to run a lot and if it goes on and off all of a sudden LC sand coming out of the water even though my water well is well developed and can run nonstop .. I use PVC and it doesn't freeze... I'm in Massachusetts... I had a steel pipe but then I decided to use 5 ft inch and a quarter PVC length and the same screen you have but I have a 5 footer and it's plastic... The steel points can rust but they work for a long time... I was able to drive the plastic down with a sledgehammer cuz the ground was so wet at 5 ft. It's very unusual...

thanks

Yes I run horizontally about 100 ft to my well and then down 21 feet. Shallow well pumps can only pull water up up about 25 ft but they could pull water horizontally about 100 ft. As well .

I just disconnect my pump in the fall. I used to bring the pump in but now I leave it outside. The heart to easily connect and disconnect just cuz you have to prime it and sometimes it takes a while to prime especially have a long hundred foot run like mine.

@@EricSilvaskiingmadman Many thanks for your responses - awesome!

no, pressure tank doesn't create volume of water..your well isn't drawing enough out of the ground...see my new video i went with 5' well point..plastic brady pump kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6p1ZrmdrtzGp6c.html

I run only on a pressure switch....it's taking a while to turn over almost like a home for a second I think I need a new capacitor lol... It gets hit when my sprinkler a lot

no it wont work...too much horizontal friction..can't go past 100' horizontal pipe at 1/14".... i'm pressing the limits with tthis install

@@EricSilvaskiingmadman mounting it down by the well (water source) along with a pressure tank and then plumb all of your irrigation lines off the pressure tank and you can run hundreds of feet

thanks just created a follow up! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6p1ZrmdrtzGp6c.html

no really...it helps the pump keep prime and pressure as i'm trying to suck that 100' of water from my well up....

i can run 6 heads because small nozzles at heads, 3gpm max each, and i have water freely coming up from my well...lots of water 7' down....

Priming is challenging. I run all 8 zones one at a time with a gender bender (female to female) hose coupling on a water spigot on my sprinkler system. hope that make sense! i will create a video on priming next!!

i use the town water supply from my house, hook up to a hose cock on my irrigation system, run all 8 zones off the house for a minute, then shut off the hose cock on irrigation system to shut off water supply then I turn on pump and she should prime.

Great tip! I actually employ a 1 gallon pressure tank to keep my pump from cycling too much. It works great since i have unlimited water in my well. Ground water at 5' in spring.

Yes, I am drawing water from ground water in sand about 15 feet straight down and then a horizontal 100' run up the lawn to the pump by the pool/house. I start the pump by connecting a water hose from the house to a boiler drain/spigot installed on the main trunk from the pump. I run the house about 10 minutes, and turn on every zone so it fills with water...once I run all the zones, I close the spigot taking water from the house and turn on the self-priming jet pump. If no leaks it primes within 10 seconds and starts driving up to 6 sprinkler heads! It stays primed (has foot valve top of well to hold water in 100' of horizontal, otherwise would have to prime every time!! ) unless I loose prime which never happens now that I drove the new plastic well with a 5' footer/sieve that has tons of water to draw from. So only prime once a year in the spring usually. I hope that helps!

people say i sound like david spade, dennis leary and also george clooney on the phone.... now that i'm older..lol

Ignacio.ablas.español.tengo.1.pregunta.para.tu

No...25 feet is max for shallow well jet pumps.. you need to put the venturi down the bottom of the well past 20 feet..the venturi is on the pump nose of this one..

what's up Eric, Need some help, Just bought a Rjs-100 1 hp got 2 inch coming in, and 1 inch out...Not running a pressure tank or relief valve...pump shuts off after 30 seconds..New to well pumps, any help would be greatly apreciated!

Favio, I know the feeling. Pressure tanks are helpful to help hold prime. And it does sounds like you are NOT getting prime. So its best practice to even use a 1 gallon tank to reduce cycling, etc. Are you using a check valve near the top of your well? I couldn't get prime until I put a check valve down by the top of the well. For best fast prime you can also fill all the irrigation pipe above ground with house hose water if possible reverse in via a irrigation line spigot before starting the pump. I even fill all the zones on the house water thru that hose valve on my irrigation line near my pump then close the boiler valve, it's basically a boiler drain i threw on the main line..and this thing primed in 15 seconds.. I think i did open pump priming plug and fill slowly until it bubbled out, then quickly closed it. I did it o ensure no air in my 100' of horizontal of line from my pump to the well at the back of my property. This pump primed in about 15 seconds..then faster after that. Ideally we need 4' of water above our points while running, so ideally we all should have 7 feet of head/water above the highest section of the point when idle. Hard to measure on driven well but i could measure both on my old 4" 11 foot deep serviceable shallow well so know my new well I just drove to 15' depth with a 5'' point to 20 feet right through that 4" pipe delivers a lot of water where I live. It can run for 4 hours non stop right now and Mass just came out of a drought. I hope this helps you and you get water asap. Please let met me know.

Thanks for the reply!....I just installed a red lion pressure tank 5 gallons, and I INSTALLED a check valve on the pump intake...I also fill the well piping with water to prime the system...but I could only get about 25 psi pressure than pump shuts off...I have not adjusted the pressure switch, thought they came set from factory...could the cut off be set at 25?..

no, not likely. If you are in a well and it has water with no leaks, you must get prime and at least pump for say at least 5 minutes...so you know you are drawing from well. how long does the pump run off the well water? it sounds like it's not getting to prime or pulling enough water from well to come up to prime. If that is case, pump is fine and switch is fine...you have leak in well line or the well / point is not producing any water. Are you sure you are air tight all the way to the water? used teflon tape and telon seal putty on threads? Did you develop the well right at the well? I ran water backwards down my well with a 2" mud pump pulling water out of 2 garbage cans, then sucked out the dirty water right at the top of the well...and also dropped compressor line down and shut it on and off repeatedly to get sand / gunk from bottom of well point. it really sounds like you have air leak in your threads or your not delivering enough water for the pump.

Also 2" is inlet is really beyond spec, as the pump is designed for 1 1/4" inlet and 1" outlet to zones/sprinkler heads. Perhaps you have a leak? that's a lot of threads to cover in teflon tape and teflon seal. You are supposed to use both, 3 turns of teflon tape and then coat with teflon TFPT liquid teflon then thread. I used not enough tape or TFPT liquid to cover threads and I had leak early before I tighted them all up. Be careful, if threads in ground and you are turning pipe you can snap threads like I did 5' down. I had to dig down and connect pipe with rubber fernco type clamp and it's working.

I don't think so...they can be set at the wrong voltage I think..there is a 120/240 swtich on the pump jacket. Check the online instructions. If it is running.....then most likely you are not getting prime... can't go deeper than 24 feet...and no air leaks to pump...It takes a long time to get my primed first time. I need to have all the above ground sprinkler zones filled with water by my house house first...then she eventually primes... make sure no leaks in control valves, etc.

@@EricSilvaskiingmadman I’ll keep trying I guess. My last one siezed up, thinking because it lost its prime, pricey little pump at $450

@@Itdontmatter69 When I lose prime, and the pump runs for hours....as I only use a pressure switch to control electricity...none of my pumps have siezed...jsut got real hot..but they wen't that old when i lost prime with them....usually housing holds some water to cool impeller even after losing prime...getting prime is tough on shallow wells.. make sure no leaks on well side.

does both..i'm set for 120

That's called a pressure tank... It holds like a gallon of water with a little bit of air in the tank to push back on the water... It helps the pump from cycling on and off a lot... Makes it last longer. A bigger tank would actually hold the water like a reservoir that the pump can use without taking water from the well but this tank is so small that doesn't happen.

Can that be improvised, the pressure tank, I am in an area where securing one is almost impossible.

yes, that is exactly what I use it for! Only to water te lawn...I have since sold the house but just installed another one! Went in fast and working great.

@@EricSilvaskiingmadman ok thank for the in formation !

no...this is for clean water..has no filter and rocks and sludge would probably build up over time... you need a sump pump for dirty water....or effluent pump.

I use the orbit with a wireless remote. Still working great after 12 years..but the remote just went out. 100 bucks well worth it to get another one..12 zones and a remote, makes it easy to blow out in the fall and hand spot water whenever you feel like it. www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-12-Station-In-Out-Timer-with-Remote-28568/204755719?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_006_IRRIGATION-NA-MULTI-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_006_IRRIGATION-NA-MULTI-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live-71700000094213697-58700007814434203-92700071019453847&gclid=CjwKCAjw5s6WBhA4EiwACGncZRtixYZ_25BuG9Ak6wuwQFx0xtmyx5s283sg7d2vGDdZHuC7SDzeTxoCeA0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

it's called a surge tank. in hydraulics it's called an accumulator. it has a large bladder diaphragm inside with air/ nitrogen pressure on the other side equal to the intended system pressure. what does it do ? it prevents hydraulic slamming that will - destroy - your plumbing and in larger tanks - holds a reserve volume of water extending the " off " time between pump cycles. in single home well systems the pressure switch turns on the pump at the low setting. the pump runs until the surge tank is full and the desired pressure is reached. the pressure switch cuts off. in his case he is only using the surge tank to protect his system from slamming. the tank will only hold about 5 gallons of water. larger tanks will hold enough volume at the desired pressure to flush a toilet several times or almost completely fill a washing machine without the pump ever coming on. my pump will only cycle 2 times while taking a shower.

actually in hydronics (water plumbing) i was taught it's just called a pressure tank. I sold them back in the 80's right out of college. Amtrol invented the pre-pressurized bladder type for hot water heating along time ago.

this is only 1 gallon and it's to protect the pump and pipe fittings from jolting and give a little extra help for the pump to prime and keep prime.