No problem. Thanks for hosting the EEVBLOG site.

@@danuber5559 Lmao

7:39 looks like the mystery is solved when u have that one that was damaged... that had a broken SMD Inductor also thanks too utube for connecting the dots recommending this vid

One day I hope to retire as well. For now I'm still having too much fun. I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. It's been a learning experience for me. Most of the brands I had never heard of.

Thanks. I'm glad you are enjoying them. I think the biggest reasons you don't see more testing on meters is cost and time. When you watch this video, realize the transient generators and high voltage probes are all home made. Price out a real generator. Not to mention the hazards if someone went with a purchased unit. Then there is the cost of the meters. But the worst part is the time. If you look at the clock on the transient generator, you can see how long these tests take to run. I do it out of my own interest. I appreciate your offer to provide some meters for testing. I have ran all sorts of meters. That analog meter was $15 and was as off brand as they come.

No problem. Glad you found it useful.

Saw that repair video he made. Sure looks like this was Brymen's correction for it.

I bought one of these from Dave at end of Jan 2018. Looking at mine just now, the L3 part has been moved down and to the left instead of sitting right next to L2. Mine doesn't have any part of the screw post cut away as I guess with the component moved there is no physical interference anymore.

What sort of BEMF can you get from an unclamped pinball solenoid?

@@joesmith-je3tq Good question, will have to see..

@@brianthompson1138 Time for the HV probe and scope, not the meter... lol.

I'm glad you enjoy them.

The BM235 is a great little general purpose meter. And while it's very robust, it lacks many things I use a meter for. My advice is download and read the manual. If you have questions, ask before you buy.

Thanks!

LOL!! The case on that generator is 1/4" thick plate aluminum. Throwing it at any meter would cause some damage!

Hey Scott. I almost called you out on the difference between a cap and a bead. lol. As I mentioned, the two extra clamps are not routed. The question then is if you have the other models and have looked at how they are populated. Sounds like you have. I am interested in knowing then which version of the meter is using the MOVs? I measured the stack up for the case and PCB as well as took some pictures of mine. These are up on the EEVBLOG site if you want to have a look.We need to revamp the flyswatter test. Maybe parallel / series a few hundred of them! lol.

Sorry, I don't have the other meters, this is my first Brymen. It's just a guess like the cheaper flukes are the same PCB for 4 or 6 different meters just with missing parts. AVE did a tear down on one and I noticed it was the same as others flukes but missing a DAC and IC for RMS, also the temp reading and other features worked but didn't have a button pad or a whole for the button on the front of the case. I just did a google image search for thenother models to do side by side of the PCB boards. I own two fly swatter, so we have three. Might be easier to remove flyback circuits from old tube televisions. Or I have a box of ignition coils with about 25 of them, lol.

Ok, I thought with you pointing out that the non-pop parts have to do with the different models, that you knew the details about the MOVs that were a no pop on the 235. At 2.5KV DC, you could use it to charge a bank like I did with the cap when I took out the UT90A. I have not had mine apart to measure the size of the filter cap.

I went to Brymen's website and do not see a BM26 series. For battery life, you may want to just download and check the manuals. I am not sure I have ever looked at the current draw and cutout voltage for any meter. The physical difference as far as I know for the BM235 is the color and marking.

F

Sorry but I can't make recommendations as I really have no idea what your needs are. I would read the manual for it and see if it has the features and accuracy you need. If you have a specific question about the meter, you may want to set up an account on EEVBLOG and post it there. I'm sure Dave and others would be more than happy to help you out.

Thanks for the info.

I have heard of people attempting to directly measure the output of a MOT with their handheld. You need to take a step back and just think about what you are suggesting. Does this even make sense to you? I would read how they define Working Voltage. Make sure you read Note 1. Maybe Annex E. I am not sure where the 60 seconds came from. Maybe you could provide the sections you are referring to.

I think I have misunderstood the standard. I was looking at the test voltages in Annex K and thinking that these were differential voltages across the input of the meter. I think that these are actually a test of the insulation and therefore not a differential test. The 60 seconds is mentioned in K.1.3.1 & Table K.8 That being the case, what is the purpose of the PTC in the protection circuit? It is never going to respond quickly enough to transients. The other thing that I don't understand is how some meters manage such impressive ACV bandwidth. I have a Fluke 287 here which is almost flat to 1MHz! How is this possible when the input resistance is a minimum of 10M? Even a few pF will result in a low cut-off. The front end doesn't appear to be compensated like scope inputs and putting a high voltage cap across the 10M seems like a bad idea.

I can't really comment on the whys of meter designs. 61010 is a safety standard and if we assume the meter is not required to survive then why have a PTC or anything else as long as it does not make an unsafe condition? Of course if your products are always being returned from being damaged, as a supplier maybe you need to address it? In the end, I assume if a company certifies and to what standards, how much protection they add, it all boils down to how to make money. If you watched the video I made where I look at making the UT61E more robust, you may find your answer. If not: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbOlp9mcxJzcmI0.html

LOL! Imagine calling up UNI-T and saying, please send me one of your top of the line meters so I can benchmark it (using a potentially destructive test) against your competitors, make a public video about it and store the data on-line so anyone can see it.

Just like them pore FLUK 87 lol

@@joesmith-je3tq uni-t definitely wouldn't, but maybe an online electronics seller would.

@@mattjmwmatt I get offers like this from distributors but really have no interest in being in their back pocket. I am not putting these videos up as a source of income. There are no ads and I don't ask for handouts. I test the meters that I am interested in seeing how they perform.

that would be a very fair video.

That's there to measure small weights. Asking specifics would be like asking what do I use a volt meter for. I did make a video where I used it as part of a small dynamometer. It's pretty fast and has an RS-232 port on it.

Interesting. I just watched two videos of your dynamometer. I'd be interested in a detailed video explanation of your setup, if you have the time.

To be clear, I have no interest in RC toys but I did post about the dyno as I was constructing it on a RC site. You may find it here. www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/81512-self-built-rc-dyno/?page=6

Wow, those are some impressive analyses. Nice looking setup as well. I didn't read every post in the thread, so forgive me if this was discussed already, but it would be interesting to do some comparisons between similarly sized/spec'd brushed vs. brushless motors.

Glad you enjoyed looking at them. At least it gives you an idea of what not to do. I had several people contacting claiming to be some big motor suppliers and such asking about the dyno. I just kept explaining that I didn't own any RC toys and this was just a model for a larger dyno. I'm not sure why but people had a hard time believing I was not some sort of RC race guru. The absorber will handle about 100 Watts. There is a ground shaft to align everything when installing a motor. With the ceramic bearings, I could do pulls well above 20K RPM with it but proper alignment was very important!

Some of the poorly designed ones fail the ESD or the AC line test and never even make it to the this part of the test. There are not that many meters that make it past 6KV. This is one of the more robust meters I have looked at. Brymen did a good job with it. I never understood the need to light up an LED with a meter. Personally I would want a handheld that could measure a HV diode but I don't see that happening. Glad you enjoyed the video.

I also have a 257s mine won't read three silicone diodes in series, but it's still the best field meter iv'e come across to date

Most people I know working in auto repair have the Modis. I've looked at a few simple DMMs for automotive. Those videos are new enough that the link for the data should be in the description. Just go to the main page and select the Motorcycle playlist. There are three different videos for automotive meters shown. You would need to watch and decide if one of them suits your needs.

@@joesmith-je3tq Ok will do. BTW, do you think that I would be better off getting a general-purpose multimeter? I know you really like the Brymen BM869. Of course, a Greenlee-compatible model might be easier to find in the U.S.

@@idealynx I would have no idea of what problem you are having, what features you need..... Only that you want some thing for automotive. The Modis seem to be the tool of choice. Maybe the only tool?

@@joesmith-je3tq Sorry, Joe. I should have provided you with more detail. Right now, I'm trying to track down a parasitic battery drain on a 2019 Mazda 3, but since the only multimeter I own is a cheap Craftsman model I was thinking about getting a more general-purpose multimeter that I could use for the problem at hand, as well as other Harry Homeowner things that may arise. :) BTW, I'm really digging your multi-part review of the 121GW.

@@idealynx That's what you should have asked. It's VERY rare I will offer any advice when it comes to meters but in this one case, I use the UNI-T UT210E clamp meter just for this purpose. Costs about $30. Will last about a year or two if you are careful with it. Maybe longer. Really a crap meter but does this one job well. Of course, that doesn't mean it will fix your car and you still need to understand how to use the tool. Good luck

There's a video showing that modification to the meter. Go the main page and type UT61E in the search, or try backlight. YT has a some features that if you take the time to learn them, will save you time.

@@joesmith-je3tq Yes, I did see that after I posted my question. Sorry. Do you know if Uni-T has a similar multimeter that includes a built-in backlight? I looked at their website, but I have no clue as to what's compatible with the UT61E.

@@idealynx Sorry, I do not. I take it you don't like the 210E for some reason or another. Odd because it does this one job really well.

@@joesmith-je3tq Oh no, not at all. I ordered the 210E right after you posted your recommendation. But I would like to have a better multimeter as well. Something that will read milliamps, unlike my crappy $12 Craftsman. :)

@@idealynx The 210E will read down into the mA. I've measured quiescent currents on cars below 10mA with it, no problems at all. For more generalized meters, I don't normally make recommendations. There are too many variable.

It has never been realigned since I have owned it. For the calibration, you can see even after all of the testing I performed on it, there was no effect. I later did a video were I looked at the temperature feature of this meter compared with others.

Adding slots to a circuit board is a fairly common practice. Searching for creepage and clearances. I'm not sure what plastic you are referring to. It's pretty common to have plastic that will fit inside these slots as well.

The lens on some of the meters get scratched fairly easily while I work on them. For the most part I just leave them on now.

There is a FAQ that you may find here: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/

@@joesmith-je3tq I assume you made that "resistance box" or whatever its called. Can we buy those somewhere or do you have tutorial links? How difficult to build? Thanks Joe! Oh btw I ordered an EEVblog BM235 should be here tomorrow, still going to buy a fluke but thanks to you not an 87V & its difficult to choose a fluke for hobbyists.

@@Metalhead-4life I made a video about this box. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hsuBo9yfmJ-WZp8.html I have added a few features since then including a K-type TC simulator, current source and HV ACDC waveform. Someone had asked me about the hardware I used and how much error it would contribute. That comment is pinned on this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jpholdqVuai7aJs.html&lc=Ugz_uMkETNXRhxlgG2x4AaABAg

Thanks. I'm impressed with the Brymen brand so far. I use mine a fair amount and have not had any problems with it.

my first 829 was from tme and it had an issue so i sent it back. after 9 months of trying to get answers i finally just recieved a refund. Good pricing there but as far as customer service they need alot of help.

I just wrote Brymen direct when I planned on running the 869s. They had the best communications of any of the companies I contacted. Mine came from TME as well. No problems at all. Very fast shipping and a good price as you mention.

yes i agree they were great to deal with, they even helped me yell at TME because they stopped responding to me. Eventually I just sent the same email to every contact on TME website until they just gave me some story about my meter being damaged in shipping and refunded me. I just didn't have a good experience with TME . I considered Greenlee(looks like same meter( but the price was much higher.

I wrote Greenlee and asked if they had changed anything with the 869s besides the color. They did not respond. So, TME it was.

Mine is also revision D and the range/level button has no effect on the loudness. I'm not sure why yours would. You should post Dave about it.

I just posted to Dave about the continuity loudness, I will let you know if he answers me.

Hopeful that he does. If I could have replicated it, I would have made a post with a video. Is there some specific steps you did to get it to change?

When i tried the continuity test I could just barely hear the tone but the back light flashed on and off, so pushed the range button, (I think), i was also pushing the select button trying to figure things out. The next time i tried it, it was nice and loud with the backlight still flashing. Since then, I've tried to turn it back down again and i cant figure out how to do it, so maybe Dave can explain it. Even my wife a daughter noticed the volume come up.

Hey Joel. I did post your question on Dave's forum. Dave was not aware of it.

Brymen has a website. You can find manuals and other information for every product they offer there.

Yes it is.

I just loaded it.

@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you sir, appreciate it

@@Weezulguy You were able to load it then or are you still unable?

@@joesmith-je3tq yes i have access

@@WeezulguyGood to hear. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Compare it how?

This meter was supplied to me directly from Brymen. You could try checking tme.com.

No problem. Glad you enjoyed it. Not a bad little meter.

Because he is not interested in the meter and he is already seeing a trend as far as Fluke goes.

@@joesmith-je3tq Hi. What is the trend with Fluke?

Many choices will not make sense if you are not a EE and not a designer. Business decisions may not make a lot of sense to someone who doesn't work in the industry as well.

I can't say I know much about the business model of such specialised companies - it's a complete mystery to me and I'm quite happy with it staying that way - but I suspect the clientele of companies such as Fluke, Gossen, Tektronix etc. is predominantly comprised of professionals and not hobbyists. Probably every aspect of designing such instruments is a specialised field even among EE professionals - as with most fields of enterprise nowadays. In addition, there are the secrets of the trade to compound what is already a complicated enough matter to those on the outside. I am certainly not expecting any of these active professional to appear out of the blue and start answering design questions regarding a specific model in a public forum - I would expect that might be quite contrary to their contractual obligations or professional ethics. By posting questions or points on aspects that tickle my interest I'm hoping to generate a discussion or invite qualified responses from whoever might share a similar interest or has something to add that might aid understanding. Everyone's level of expertise is quite different of course.

You must realize this is a small channel and very few people leave comments. It you are looking to have a discussion, I would suggest you join some of the EE forums. You will get a lot more feedback them than you will find here.

The attached link is where I typically post about the handheld meter testing. Feel free to join and ask your questions. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/

a-ha! Thanks for the link - I hadn't realised you had a dedicated topic on EEVblog. I don't frequent EEVblog much but maybe I should. I'll definitely check the topic you''ve created. I've been hopping around your videos on different meters but haven't had the patience to go through one of your longer series on a single meter yet. The reason is probably that I'm interested primarily in certain tests such as ESD,, RMS measurement bandwidth, etc. more than others (e.g. functional testing). Now, if I had my eyes set on a particular meter, it would be a different story of course. What has impressed me watching your videos, however, is that there is no single meter you've reviewed that is without drawbacks - regardless of price. It's more that some are better than others in certain respects. As I've only found your channel, the wealth of information is quite overwhelming and I ought to pace myself. I'm interested in the capabilities some of the more advanced meters you're testing have to offer especially with some which could be used as bench top replacements. I can't bring myself to fork out the cash one of these cost - I just don't really need these capabilities, I just find them interesting. Then again you never know what I might find on ebay in a couple of years. In any case, it's good to have some idea of what lies under the bonnet. I suppose if I ever decide to go for one of those, I'll be buying it with my eyes open. I know very little about the workings of digital meters and these videos have certainly widened my perspective on their limitations. But you're right in that the yt channels are not the proper place to have discussions anyway - the format is not ideal for this use for a start.

Having the terminal stressed every time the leads are installed, not to mention having to work the loads a bit to get them inserted is not a detail I would gloss over. There are many reviews that are far less detailed. I suggest you look for those.

I wasn't criticizing. I was trying to say for a cheap meter, the crooked terminal is not really big problem in the scope of things:) Keep up the good work.

If it caused the solder joint to fracture, the connector to fail prematurely or make it difficult to insert the test leads, I would say it's a problem. I don't like the fact they notched the plastic as well. Again, you personally may not care about this level of detail but this channel may not be for you.

Ok. I won't watch anymore of your videos. You think I am not good enough for your channel as you say.

The fact you would put words in my mouth so to say, may be another reason this is not a good channel for you.

Dry your thumb off.

He's in the business of selling meters now. Did you ever see him give a critical review of his 121GW? I haven't.

It's possible too that he views it as a conflict of interest and is looking for impartial reviews from others. That's fine as well. I don't mind digging in and I'm sure others don't as well.

@@joesmith-je3tq I think it would be fair to do a critical review+teardown of his meters also. He might win a few more buyers and extra sympathy from all of us for being honest and fair..

@@aicisha I tend to agree with you.

You are basing this on what? I've shown my data, show me yours.

@@joesmith-je3tq Forking A. If you spout some smack prove it with data. I have watched the whole video and really appreciate that you have done some VERY extensive testing. And what I got from the video was "This is an Acceptable meter for the price point". Thank you for the effort you expended in getting the information out. (Now I'm out to go buy one). Oh and subscribed, liked, and clicked the bell.

@@Javafiendcuppajoe Thanks. I appreciate the comment.

@@joesmith-je3tq Just ordered my new multimeter, its gonna be 2 days...

Oh FFS, the author of this video spent so many hours doing a crazy amount of testing and you dismiss it because why? Your "feelpinion"?