Does the EEVblog BM786 have the new shield covering the beeper to deal with the magnet issue? I am interested in buying one.

I was about to order EEVBlog BM786 from Australia, but after seeing this video, I ordered a BM789 from EU. Have you got your BM?

Thanks and enjoy your new meter.

Thanks for the insight. At least from a robustness standpoint, they appear to be on par. I expect most will have a very long life. Fluke really doesn't offer what I would consider a decent general purpose meter for electronics. I like the obsolete Fluke189. Brymen has the BM869s which is is my meter of choice until I find something better.

@@joesmith-je3tq The techs primary portable meter was the Fluke 189 until the 287/289 was released and then they upgraded. The cal lab is a large international organization that went on a buying spree and purchased many of the small mom and pop cal labs in the US and internationally.

@@amham48 The 289's boot times, small fonts, poor contrast and slow graphics turned me off of it. I compared it with a Chinese knock off. They copied the menu structure so its a no brainer to drive.

Indeed, all autorange problems can be solved with manual range and manual range meters do not exhibit autorange bugs unless the human screws up.

Thanks. I'll add it to the list.

Coaxial.

1) You still see me using it don't you? 2) I do not understand your comment about your Agilent loading your circuit. You would need to provide more details about what you were doing. I have measured the burden voltage (assuming that is what you are asking about) for many meters. That fact that you talk about loading, I suspect this is not what you are asking.

@@joesmith-je3tq I believe the question was asked about taking into account internal impedance of the meter when measuring current. For e.g. for small current measurement the internal impedance of APPA iMeter5 on 4mA range when measuring DC current is around 3kOm. One meter had 2682Om internal imedance and another 3628Om. In the manual it says for e.g internal.impedance is around 3kOm. But this is approximate figure and each and every one will have particular internal impedance different from one to another. Therefore the current measurment was different for each particular meter. Hence when it taken into account it allows more precise measurement of the current. All meters have the difference. Would be really interesting to see how much difference Brymen same series have?

@@stanleywhiteman6450 So you think they want to know the burden voltage of the Keysight. This makes sense.

@@joesmith-je3tqWould be interesting to know what working voltage of their circut they mentioned in that regard for a start to come to some kind of conclusion

First, calibration is comparing the instrument with known traceable standards to verify it meets the manufactures specifications. I assume any product when new, meets the manufactures claims.

It's still my favorite handheld in the lab. Maybe one day I will find something I like even more.

I recommend you download both manuals and compare them.

I believe Dave posted that information on EEVBLOG if you're interested. Enjoy your new meter.

You're putting several amps through the lead tips? If so, I am not surprised by them heating up and giving different readings. What's the manual say about how long you can run this sort of current through the meter? While you may have damaged your new leads, it doesn't seem like you have damaged the fuse yet. There is a beginner section on EEVBLOG. You may want to consider joining that and posing your questions there. Most members there try to be helpful and if you post in the beginner section, they should treat you as such.

@@joesmith-je3tq thanks for that. The leads have a 1KV 10 A rated stamped on the handle. With regards to the meter, manual says up to 10 Amps indefinitely can be applied, and between 10A and 20A for less than 30 seconds, with a cooling period of not less than 15 mins, so I guess the meter is fine. Thankfully the application time was brief even for the leads not to get too warm, everything still functions as it should, but def a lesson learned (along with many other future tips on EEV blog😉👍)

I don't normally recommend products so I am not sure where the "still recommend" is coming from. Often I just recommend people to do their homework and buy the tools they need to do their job. I do still use the BM869s. It has a few features I want that are not included with the BM789. Mostly, I want the split display but have also found that 500k count mode to be useful.

I really don't know. Amprobe had also rebranded at least one Brymen product.

@@joesmith-je3tq ok tks man.

After seeing the 121GW, I would see no reason to look at another product from them.

@@joesmith-je3tq But 121GW was developed by Dave and this multimeter looks like their own product.

@@peterlents983 Now that's funny.

and a dual display

But large sizes

I own one. the only disappointing thing is that it misses the beep for diode check, very useful. apart from that, IMHO one of the best DMM on the market

Sorry but if you check the FAQ, I do not normally recommend products.

The manual should provide you with the accuracy specs. I would start there. Abs(-5.7) - 5.3 is 400mV not 4mV. Double check your results and make sure you have read and understand the manual.

I don't know.

Greenlee tools is the distributor for bryman in the US but I don't know what models they carry,

@@joesmith-je3tq Not a good answer because of your platitudes about this particular instrument.

@@jdmccorful Since when is "I don't know", not an acceptable answer? Certainty with today's culture, it's seldom heard but I can't help that.

@@joesmith-je3tq ended up buying one overseas. Just watched your video on update to "auto" problem. I doubt that I will run into the problem so not too worried . Last 2 digets of my rev are 08.

Assuming a constant voltage, the current will change as a result of the different shunts being switched. Look up burden voltage. That said, even if I drove the meter with a perfect constant current source, I expect it will change. Recently someone had posted about their zero drift perfect UNI-T meter to which I created a video for. Nothing is perfect. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtuFetRk0Mq7qaM.html

You need to learn how to make your own choices. I looked at a few automotive meters on this channel. I also uploaded a video for an old Fluke automotive scopemeter. You may want to check those out and see if they offer any features you would need. Most of the people I know working in automotive use the Modis (Snap-On) with the meter feature.

While the Brymen BM869s and Fluke 189 are still may favorite meters, that does not mean that they would be a good choice for you. Do your own research and make your own choice. If you have a specific question about the BM869s, feel free to ask. You may also want to join the EEVBLOG. That question gets asked a lot and people there are always willing to provide you with their opinions.

@@joesmith-je3tq thanks for swift responce,,really appreciated...

Best thing to do is download both manuals and start reading. There are obvious differences, the dual display and ability to connect to a PC for example.

I would assume for closed case alignment and firmware updates. Factory use only.

any ideea what is going on?

Sure. They are a business and as such sell products. Rebranding is nothing new.

How would you propose this mode be tested?

@@joesmith-je3tq I think a go/no go test would be good enough. If the low Z returns to lets say 20K ohm after cooling, that would be a pass. Currently have much of the components already to make my own low Z DMM adapter using resistors and fuse(s) in series that would take the line voltages almost continuously. IMO varistors are kind of like thermal fuses. After so many cycles of zaps or heat they eventually will fail. But still would be nice to have a DMM with the low Z for occasional convenient use.

@@ntag411 With how many volts applied for how long? You leave a lot of variables open. A MOV is not in any way a thermal fuse. Your comment about cycles and zaps isn't one I have seen in a very long time. You must be new to the channel as I've covered that topic a few times.

I had wrote them when the problem was first reported. When they responded that they had addressed it, I asked for the parts to upgrade the meter for this review.

@@joesmith-je3tq Thanks a lot!

Hi, I got one with firmware 06, Is there any way to upgrade firmware to the latest version?

If you have a look at the manual for the meter, you will find the differences between the 786 & 789 and what features each meter has.

It's a very old company. The name was from the founders.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZx-nqSAx8mxlZc.html

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jM2dmZeezKrdeHk.html

If you can't sort out what your need are, how would you expect anyone else to sort out what your needs are? The best for you is what choice you make. Not what choice I make for you. Learn to make your own choices. If you don't have a clue what you need, you may need nothing. Wait until you have a need, then buy the tools that fit those needs.

@@joesmith-je3tq Yes, I understand what you are talking about. Maybe I said wrong. The functionality and accuracy suits me with both multimeters. And in terms of the quality of materials, there is no way to check them before buying. Is the 789 the same quality as the 869? I hope I wrote it correctly ..

@@fpvart193 I am not sure how you define quality. I provided several tests for both meters that go beyond what the manuals cover. They may help you determine if one is better than the other based on whatever criteria you come up with.

If you can define what "better" means to you, I expect you can compare the manuals for the two meters and determine that. For you, better may mean smaller, lighter weight, lower cost, battery selection...

857 better

@@funcool8884 Why do You Thank that? BM789 have more usefull functions...

@@raphaelsl1082 New doesn't mean better.Brymen is still working on the bm789 firmware. BM857 has a classic body and ergonomics, despite the functionality is more convenient to work with.

Doing a search for BM867, I see several videos for it. Just use the YT search.

@@joesmith-je3tq i did look for the 867, does result in more than searching for the 867s. Only found one review for the 867s but i guess the 867 is in another language close enough but older

@@rokiedecentra9656 I would assume the "s" was for the higher safety rating, like with the BM869s. Functionally, I wouldn't expect any difference but you could as Brymen. There were also several discussions about it on EEVBLOG.

In the description, there is a link to a FAQ. I believe everything you have brought up was covered in the FAQ. Of course, had you actually watched the video, it was covered in there as well: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mc-ndaVm0L_aeoE.html

Hard to say not being there watching you. Battery could be something from a car or a button battery for a watch. Of course, we know meters with LoZ accomplish this normally with PTCs. If you were to get these hot, their impedance increases and of course it drops as they cool. My guess is what ever you are doing you are not considering their effects.

@@joesmith-je3tq i tried new AAA AA and 9V batteries with both 789 and 829 in V mode and in Auto/LoZ and 829 in both cases shows a stable number for all of them while 789 in auto/loz the voltage drops continuously and if switch back to V mode the voltage is increasing slowly. if u check directly in V mode with 789 is ok it gives u the stable number like 829

can you check your 789 with any AAA AA battery in autoV/loz mode and see if it does the same?

@@MihaiDobrin88 Again, you are loading the battery, then removing the load and the battery starts to recover. I've seen people who have tried scams based on this but it's nothing new. You should be able to replicate it with any meter and a simple load. If you feel this is not what you are seeing, make a clip and post it.

@@joesmith-je3tq ok im will make a video and post it and let you know. my only concern is because i just bought it and just in case if it has an issue i wanna know to send it back for replacement. the fact that 829 doesn't do this testing the same batteries makes me wonder if my 789 is faulty or is something normal for this model like being an extra feature or missing feature compared to 829

The average hobbyist should be able to make their own choices.

@@joesmith-je3tq Ok. Let me ask the question another way, all things being equal what would your preference be and why?

I may run it up to failure to see how it compares.