RJ The Bike Guy you know how you said that more you ride a bike, the more the cassette tightens. Should I kissing mine every once in while

@@4_Low_Off_Road A freewheel gets tighter. Not the cassette.And just leave it.

RJ The Bike Guy which type is better

@Markus Patients Yeah, get your frame spacing, wheel size, and axle type (probably not a thru if you have a cassette), and order the proper wheel.

@@RJTheBikeGuy can i move 24" bike Cassette to 26" bike rim?

Same here, doing some up grade to the kids 24 inch bike and realize just opened a can of worm.

Same here but the kid here is 62 years old me. I'm on a suicide mission upgrading my 1986 Diamond Back Arrival MTB. I'm going to build a new wheel.

they would fit but wouldn't play if you did. Just messing with you. Originally, I think they called 8-track tapes a cassette. Actually they first came out with the 4 track tape (mono not stereo I believe) then when they changed to stereo they had to double the tracks. Trivia; the tape they used in 8-tracks was the same width as a home Reel to Reel tape machine so they had the potential for good sound quality but still had that damn track change right in the middle of your favorite song, fade out , click-click, fade back in. Plus reel to reel I think only used four "tracks" in the same space, two for each direction if I remember.

ok boomer

@@manstersr Nope. They were called "cartridges." Cassettes replaced 8-track cartridges. 😊 Had an 8-track player in my '62 Ford Fairlane 500. Oh, how I miss that car.

Cassettes were much easier. If the tape got pulled out you could use a pencil to try and get it to rewind back inside - but it was never the same. With an 8 track you were pretty much screwed.

That's what I thought as well!

Love your videos. Thanks for your work.

This flag represent Canada more than the real Canadian flag does lol

The main reason is that with more gears, the freewheel got wider and wider, and the axle extending out past the bearings in the hub got longer and longer and more prone to bending and breaking. Freehubs allow the bearings to be farther out and less bent, broken axles.

Yes it's you turn the wheel CCW to remove a freewheel. Just like if you used a wrench. It screws on clockwise so as you pedal, the freewheel gets tighter. I did have one wheel that the freewheel was so corroded and had been on the wheel for decades, two of us turned the wheel and the freewheel remover shattered!

+Rounak SIngh He could have said all in two sentences:A freewheel has mostly 5-7 gears and is fabricated with the freehub as one part. A cassette has 7-10 gears and they are exchangeable and is no replacement for a freewheel.

i agree with you but i managed to break 3 or 4 cassettes hubs in last 1 year in my occasional driving on steep hil,

@@makantahi3731 I feel your pain. And I bet I can tell you what happened. Shimano freehubs changed everything, but are not without their own issues. Under high stress or when contaminated with grit they tend to crack and die. I have had chips from the prawl catches get in the bearings and eat up the races. As well as shattering of the case. As soon as I see any sign of gear catch or drag they are replaced. I have tried servicing them with limited success. So, I bet your problem has not been with the cassette (which wear relatively to chain wear) but the freehub.

cassete hubs,3 of 4 hubs broke on same place:on right side of hub in body of cassete left thread broke on what is screwed outher "cup" of bearing (inside are balls), when i bought last hub i asked seller if he can guarantee it will not break-still is ok but i was on lethal uphill only twice. when i had freewheel system i broke axle every 2000km, then i switched on shimano cassete hubs with 7/8 speed and drove races on it and no problems (1995-2000) and now when i drive occasionally i started to destroy hubs

@@makantahi3731 Your English syntax is poor, and I think you are using your terms inappropriately. A cassette has no threads. They slide onto splines on the free-hub. The free-hub is is attached to the hub body by a threaded bolt that the axle goes thru. The damage I was referring to is usually cracks or breakage to the free-hub casing. The race for the drive side bearings is threaded into the free-hub casing. It is pressure from those bearings that causes the breakage to the casings. By transferring loads to the 2 rows of very small bearings in the free-hub that are generally not easily accessible. Those loads put lateral pressure on the casing causing failure. I believe your problem is a broken free-hub casing, a fairly common occurrence. Upgrading to a hub brand, like Chris King or Hope, that uses a CNC'd free-hub casing (Shimano uses a cast casing) will fix your problem. Otherwise, learn the signs of the free-hub failing and replace as soon as you see them. If you continue to ride steep hills once the damage has started you WILL continue to have failure.

we can speek in my language if you know it better than i know english, if you want to disasemble hub , you unscrew nuts on axle, when axle is out of hub you can remove bearing balls and on right side of hub in free hub if you wanna get to smaller balls, you have to unscrew left thread "nut"/"cup" /"outher bearing bed"(not hollow screw that keeps free hub on rest of hub)-that thread is broken , on two hubs, and it can not be discovered when it started to break, only when is broken and wheel then starts to dance left/right, now i have some no name hub that seller claim that will not beak, if would i have spare parts and will try to repare shimano hubs

Kevin R. Dunn Good deal!

+Robert Wetzel A dozen catholic monks???? To be fair, I posted this video back in July...

RJ The Bike Guy I absolutely know and noticed. The monks were just random trolling, an old-fashioned yet reliable device for that. Gotta go watch some of your other videos :-)

i know this is a old vid but ca you give me a link if you have one to a vid that shows how to take off a freewheel tire and replace it with a cassette

dozen of monks? are you trying to get rid of some young boys?

Hahahahah

Sorry, but's "Hey viewers!"

@@RJTheBikeGuy Nooo please don't ruin it for me, it's "Hey Dears!!!" ;_; Joking RJ, love your channel! Hope you're all better from the crash!

Ye mine does

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z-CHjK-Tl7ixgHU.html

Dude you need to get some chain whips too

Precisely. I couldn’t have said it better myself.

chalo colina i just realised the difference between freewheel and cassettes and i have a freewheel rip might buy a new rim with a freehub

Yep. Most people assume the biggest advantage of the cassette over the freewheel hub was ease of removal. But it’s the elimination of the broken axle problem inherent in the overhung axle bearings on the drive side.

And now with many modern 'boutique' cassette wheels; those old lessons about bearing placement go out the window. with funky 'modular hub' designs that have a freehub body that just slip fits onto the axle shaft and has its own bearings separated from the main hub body.

Yep, cuz cadence is so important. Except when you're pedaling at 10rpms up anything above 10%.

In my racing days a straight block was usually 13-18 :)

@@PRH123 we used to build them ourselves for the weekly club races which were super competitive

Bought a 27.5 mtb wheel with cassette today. The freewheel type wheel that came with the bike has snapped 5 axles and bent one solid axle in the last 5 years. I am free of that wheel now!!!!!!!

Not only because of breakage, also because of crooking. Nearly EVERY axle of a used cassette hub i've seen was crooked. This of course inflicts damage to the bearing. Therefore it's actually worth to convert to freewheel.. ;)

Agreed. I'm large and have strong legs, and replacing the rear axle was just part of the regular maintenance when I had a freewheel -- and that was on my road bike. With a freehub, I've never had to replace the axle.

not much except for the ability to upgrade and change your axle and cassette easily.

Yes. Low end bikes might still have freewheels.

@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks you rock. I'm tinkering on my diamondback response mtb for the first time and I need to buy a removal tool.

@@mixflip Keep in mind that the old flywheel ones last a lifetime, and the new Shimano cassettes a few years. (depending on how you keep your bike)

@@Makulax Yes i Think you are right I think the old ones are steel and the new ones alloy Iguess the future ones will be some composite materials ceramic mixed with different hardening materials probably some carbon fiber with plated with ceramic composite in the more expensive ones similar to xx1 etc today for the Roadies that wants their bike to not be affected by gravity so they only pedal their own weight

@@HeathenRides IM FUCKING DEAD 😂 💀

I tought pro cyclists used cassete

The very loud freehubs that have appeared in recent years (like a bee buzzing) have mechanisms that greatly reduce the tiny fraction of a second lag time that the pawls in a regular free hub require to reposition themselves into pedaling mode from coasting mode. There are a couple of different types out there, a couple with no pawls at all. In reality I believe this microsecond delay is meaningless to anyone in reality, but racers think it gives them an edge. Others install them because they can afford them and so it’s a form of elitist snobbery, if you have the loud buzzing freehub now then then the other snobs know you’re one of them. For me it’s really funny because when I was racing in the 80’s and 99’s it was just the opposite, a loud freewheel was a sign of a s squidly know nothing amateur, and it was cool to have a smooth quiet freewheel.

The only scenario high point of engagement hubs make a real difference is in slow technical riding and climbing. Like rock or root gardens where pedal strike is common. You can quickly ratchet the cranks to avoid pedal strike or banging your feet into obstacles. To most riders , loud hubs are just a status symbol. They're usually more expensive, but only sometimes better engineered. High POE may allow a stronger engagement, but 3 pawl drivers hold up fine for most average riders. I love my Dura Ace, XTR and XT hubs. Shimano's inexpensive hubs are the best value going, but ONLY if you take care of your hubs and overhaul whenever they're slightly contaminated. If you're actually pedaling to make the bike move along, POE doesn't make any difference until you're pedaling really hard. I've been riding hard, racing, single speeding and fixed gearing for decades. I can put power down. Ive never had a hub driver or freewheel fail as long as I overhauled my 'old junk' regularly. Hub drivers can become lots louder when theyre neglected, the driver lube is old or dried out. That's called neglect. Some dummies remove lube to make their hubs louder. That's idiotic. Ive used entry level hubs to highest end hubs on the market.(Chris King) That said I'm a retired machinist, mechanical inspector and appreciate fine engineering and high end manufacturing. I used a bunch of different nice Shimano hubs, 45 year old Campy's, old DT Hugi and almost as old Chris King. Those are mostly what I'd recommend in my wheel building business. The best thing about truly well engineered hubs is bearing quality and manufacturing excellence. All my old stuff lasts because I take care of it. I'm a shop mechanic and wheel builder. My Chris Kings have never needed new bearings in over 25 years of hard riding. There's over 100000 miles ridden on them. Chris King is the only company that makes their own surgical quality bearings, even the balls. You can overhaul these bearings. They're very expensive, best sealed on the market and you don't throw them away. The CK Ring Drive is ingenious in its ultra high stength and fool proof design. Ive precision measured all the interference fit tolerances and they're well within engineering standards of mil spec quality. I used to build hardware like this for the aerospace and medical industries. For serious riders who ride lots of hard, dirty miles, they're a good investment. We're not all snobs because we like nice stuff. I fix commuters bikes as well as homeless people's bikes. I truly want to serve my customers who rely on their bicycles. To keep them rolling along....That's my job. For casual riders, expensive wheels are probably excessive and expensive.

​@@rollinrat4850 interesting read. been commuting on bike full time for over a decade but only recently getting into maintenence. going to have to check out the brands you mention

I think this is what you want. In my opinion not worth it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZ2chZaDldazimw.html

Cool!

Depends. Measure the hub spacing to see if an 8 speed wheel will fit. www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

Thanks for the link. Just needed some kind of guide

i think it should, did you try?

steel taste better than alu

But steel has greater side effects than alu

Mint flavored metal, strawberry flavor metal, chocolate flavor metal, vanilla flavored metal.

The flavor comes from the chain oil (in other words : the sauce).

Spacely Sprockets.

haha nalito din ako sa title nito boss. "threadtype vs cassette type" sana

ang natutunan ko sa mga casette, hindi thread, parang gear, tapos ang freewheel, may notches

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freewheel

The term refers to the fact that it ratchets and that when you stop peddling it spins.

jesus christ did someone shoot up your schools and took your internet away? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spline_(mechanical)