Struggling right now lol

I have no hole through my sealed bb,you must be using hollowtech bb?

You can use a washer and your original bb bolts to keep the bb tool in place if your axel isn’t drilled through. Don't fully tighten the bolt and remove once you get the bb to move a little.

Depending on the depth of your bb tool you may need to find a longer bolt. A drilled cork is handy with a washer at either end so when you manage to get the cups moving the cork compresses a little and doesn’t strip the threads with the bolt. Good luck

@@stevenbarrett4836 Thank you for your reply.I watched a video from RJ the bike guy use an impact wrench with the bb tool and off came the sealed bb with very little effort.I think over time it money well spent with little effort and no stress.Thanks

Thanks BeBe.

Thanks for that, nice one.

This is the kind of thing I can actually remember, thanks! For pedals I remember loosen toward the back...so opposite for the bb, that actually sticks with me!

When 'unscrewing' turn towards the fork on both sides. Not when tightening.

You are welcome!

Thank you for watching.

Thank you Dave.

thanks for this tip. I was having a very difficult time getting mine out while keeping the tool in there. your trick helped tremendously as well as a 2 foot pipe on the wrench.

Just watch out for the threads, the crank axle has a smaller thread than standard bolts.

Thanks for watching

Hi Jake, I'd suggest taking to your local bike shop. They have tons of tools and experience. Good luck!

Excellent. We appreciate you watching.

Thanks for watching. I'm glad it helped you out.

Fantastic!

vekicro87 Yup, it will definitely be more difficult - especially with a 15-20 year old bike. Hope your bike repair is going well.

vekicro87 It can be just as hard on new bikes. Just removed a bottom bracket on a brand new bike, and almost wrecked the teeth at first. Since I didn't have a long screw I had to go all creative and use shoelaces to tie a plier around the bike frame with its handles around the removal socket to keep it in place. Wonky, but it worked, haha :-)

jandroid33 Glad it worked. Thanks for watching and replying.

Good tip! WD40 poured in the seat post followed by boiling water should help too

Excellent! Glad to hear.

That's great, Jon, glad the video helped!

Thank you for watching. I'm glad you enjoyed.

Thank you for watching!

Fantastic! We are thrilled to hear it helped you out!

I suggest going to your local bike shop for assistance to ensure your bike does not need additional work. Thank you.

Fantastic Trey.

yes

Wrongn't

Thanks for watching.

Thank you!

Thank you for watching.

Great, thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it

Have you tried using some liquid wrench and letting it sit? Heat is not something we can recommend. If you cannot remove w/ liquid wrench, I'd take it to your local bike shop. We always advocate using your local bike shop for any work - especially something like this. Good luck!

Thank you, glad you liked it!

Very good. Thank you for watching.

He had removed the crankset first. Adjustable wrench (10") and crank remover tool

Hi Edo, thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it and we'll add it to our video list. If you have any questions, feel free to go www.roadbikeoutlet.com/contact-us/ and send us an email or call us at 866.545.5759. We'll be happy to help.

You are absolutely correct. It's not always easy. It's going to be harder on a bike that has some miles on it.

You are welcome. Thanks for watching.

littletunersr20 watch looks to me like a , CITIZEN quartz day/date anolog from year 1985... about as old as my original MTB, BB that I'm about to replace.

I would take to your local bike shop and have them fix this for you. It's really easy to strip, then a much bigger deal to fix. You can try to shoot some lubricant into the crank and let it sit. That 'may' help.

Thank you. We have a new location. :)

Johny40Se7en You can do this. Please remember that the bb needs to work with the crank, so if you have a hollowtech crank, you'll have to use a hollowtech bb. You may need a separate tool as well to work with the hollowtech.

RoadBikeOutlet what do you mean by bb?

Bottom bracket.

RoadBikeOutlet ah ok I get you. What's the benefit of hollowtech compared to square taper?

Johny40Se7en hollowtech tends to be lighter. There is an older and newer style. Hollotech is not square taper. You'll need to weigh the pros and cons and figure out which way you want to go. Again, it will be a system - the bottom bracket and crank. Good luck!!

Thank you for watching

GB REFLEX Usually spindles are even, but some could be offset to a certain extent to accommodate the chain ring. There are a lot of variables based on crank and BB style (BMX, to a 3 or 2 piece crank etc.) and they all depend on the bike you have. For the drive side (fixed cup), it must be tightened all the way as must the non-drive side (adjustor cup). For the pedal distance, hopefully the cranks are tightened appropriately. Is the spindle inserted correctly? This could be a cause for concern, as using the bike could cause it to shift - is your BB loosening on one side and tightening on the other? We suggest that you take your bike into a professional bike mechanic to check it out.

David Zwiers the appropriate tools makes it easier (especially if the tool has a longer arm, or a bar to help with leverage). If the BB has been in the bike for a long time, it will of course be harder to remove.

Thanks Abe.

Have you tried to gently tap with a rubber mallet it to see if it will budge? If not, then you should bring to your local bike shop for assistance. Bike shops are great and are an amazing resource.

@@road_bike_outlet Yep, tried that. Ended up just cutting the cups out, got a cheap Shimano Hollowtech BSA bottom bracket to see if threads were okay, it seems fine. Gonna have to put some anti seize on the threads when I assemble the bike for sure

Guido Pallotta We were not sure when making it which it was, and you're absolutely correct. It is indeed a 20 tooth, not a 36. We appreciate the clarification!

Wow that's pretty basic knowledge you should have known.

Thanks!

I am sorry, but we can't guess that without seeing the bike. I'm sorry.

You are welcome. Thanks for checking it out.

hadi257 Absolutely not. You always will need tools.

Ghost Rider yea depends on bike

yes a hollowtech type as long as threading is the same

+Avoyce N Deether Glad you enjoyed the video.

Avoyce N Deether

Is it off now?

LOL. Yes, we had an advantage by using a new bike.

Thx I figure it out I sprayed heavey dose of WD-40 and let it set for a while then I got it to move , installed my new bottom bracket bike runs great...

Sword Fish Glad to hear.

+Kie 7077 Jeez, using a huge 32mm wrench I had to hit it with hammer and practically stand on the bugger and jump to get to unstick, but it did just about unstick, phew. Using anti-seize now.

I had to put a bolt through my bottom bracket tool, bolt i thight into the nut pattern so i didnt skip any teeth. Then put the tool in the vise with literally my whole frame boltet to it. Then i used the frame to rotate and it finaly came loose. These thing cant get crazy hard to break free. Never think i have been so innovative working on a bike haha

It all depends, but likely not. If you cannot take it off, please take to your local bike shop for assistance.

@@road_bike_outlet mine is ok

Yikes, it's hard to diagnose without seeing the bike. I suggest you take your bike to a shop and have them help. Please do not ride it until this has been resolved.

Thank you.

Thank you for watching.

This Problem generally occurs when your crank arms rub against your spindle... take off your crank arm (undo the bolt and use a crank puller) and grease the spindle slightly (I use park tool PPL-1) then put the crank arm on, and do up the bolt as tight as humanly possible. slide something about 2-3 feet long over the allen wrench to really torque it on there! the tighter the bolt, the less likely it is to come undone and require this to be done again. Do be careful not to strip your bolt though. it you hear any sort of cracking, stop screwing it in. A good crank puller would be one of these: www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Compact-Crank-Puller/dp/B0028YUZSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1390181068&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+square+taper+crank+puller Please note, you're going to want at least a 1.5 foot long wrench to pull your cranks, seeing as they're on there quite tight. the longer your wrench, the more leverage you can get, and the easier it is to pull the cranks. Hope this helps :)

Sorry I did not reply months ago. I hope it has been resolved. If not, call or email and we'll do our best to help. 904.425.1366

We tried to shorten the video (per requests) so took them off ahead of time.

It can be a bit challenging. I'm sorry you had some trouble with it.