@Chase Kylen scammer!

@Nasir Matteo scammer!

This is an old method to find the center of just about anything. Use anything that can give a consistent length from an edge and use it to approximate the center. It doesn't matter if it stops short of center or goes past center. Just do it from both edges and the actual center will be exactly the center between both lines. Of course if you get it on dead center like you've said then you're set. Usually if you're close with the two lines you can just eyeball the center and be within a couple thousandths of precision.

I use a pencil or pen and mark the mortise and tenon on places that won't be seen after they are glued together and has been a pretty fool proof way for me to keep track.

Agreed. The problem looks to come especially from referencing off the back face. Unless the stock is absolutely perfect 4 square then no guarantee it'll line up

There is one where he sharpens the cutter on the diamond plate, flat face down. Remove the cutter and move it around on the plate and holding it with your fingers, rotating it periodically so you don’t skew the face.

I would tighten the cutter up and make several light passes rather than one heavy deep one. Wheeled marking gauges don’t tend to grab unless forced hard in my opinion.

@@garynelles Thanks. I'll give it another go and see what happens.

We designed our own and yes we sell it. Under “gauges” on our site robCosman.com

Thanks, will be in touch.

Trying to make it as achievable as possible for those starting out. Marking gauge is your best bet.

Veritas

The Rob Cosman brand of course.

Funny you should mention that, we’ve determined the same thing.

Please explain for newcomers how to do this correctly. I do understand why the lines did not meet up.

@R Wind When using a square, you must first establish one reference face and one _adjacent_ reference edge on the board. The *body* of the square must be placed in contact with _only_ these references when striking lines along the *blade* of the square. Doing so will ensure that the lines meet up correctly. This method does not rely on the *end* of the board being square. In order for the marking gauge method to accurately scribe all around a board, the *end* of the board (which is used as the reference surface for the marking gauge’s fence) must be made *truly square* to both the faces and the edges of the board (usually with a shooting-plane). Rob’s method of stock preparation is optimised for him to use a wheeled marking gauge for speed and repeatability.

@@mechaform thanks for an explanation that gives me a principle to follow in other situations. This is all about precision measurement and marking; I am trying to transition from carpentry to woodworking, and these differences have already caused problems for me. Along with your help, the video will be helpful. I first bought an inexpensive wooden pin-type affair and it is impossible to use, as well as destroying the wood fibers as I try to mark. I should have studied up first; not sure if I'll trash it or try to improve it. So I just bought a wheeled marking gauge from i-gauging / chipsfly.com , and now I know how to examine it carefully before relying on it. ( I have hopes it's decent, because Stumpy Nubs recommended their precision blocks and at least one other tool. If not I can still return it for a better one. ) Do you have a recommendation for what to look for (not just a brand) in a marking knife? Thanks.

@@rwind656 Do not trash the pin gauge, it can be made to function well. Pin shape needs to look more like the needle used for 78 RPM records (ellipsoid) and the proper technique must be learned. My great-grandfather performed excellent work using only pin gauges. It may help to think of inexpensive tools as a “kit” of parts that you can freely modify and learn with. Some value-branded tools can work surprisingly well, but the quality level and accuracy variation between examples in any given batch can vary wildly. My preference for marking knives are the spear-point, single bevel style. These are available from many vendors, or you can readily make your own from a short length of high-carbon steel bar stock, a file, and some elbow-grease. This type gives me confidence that my lines are precisely where I expect them to be. Many, more talented woodworkers, prefer (and do stunning work with) different blade geometries, pocket knives, pencil lines, or disposable X-Acto blades. Whatever feels most comfortable to you _while giving repeatable results_ will be the best choice. Best of luck on your skill-building journey.

@@mechaform Thank you for taking the time to add to the instruction here. I had made one box that I was very proud of years ago, surprised now that it turned out so well... then have had some I am not happy with -- more than one cause. This skill is one I can work on.

Yes. That stood out a mile, so much so that I paused to comment then found I was not alone. As I ask in my comment, "Why?' He knows better. He could have used it to make the point about reference edges, and yes, one face for marking both sides, but he didn't. So was he just trying to dissuade us from using this method effectively in favour of gushes? I'm sure gauges will also have a problem if the end is not perfectly square and straight. Any uneven surface on the end and the marks on opposite faces will not match. Maybe not to badly on thin wood but on thick wood? I would rather rely on the use of a square then.

Does the mark on the rule change in size as you use it?

Thanks Mac, we purchased a new set of mics with the camera, but they’re not panning out well. An additional replacement has been ordered.