Can you recommend a 5 1/5 plane? I'm a hobbyist working on 3/4" to 1/8" wood. Intarsia, projects for the house, scroll sawing projects for sale (not so much) and Christmas gifts for friends and neighborhood kids.

Did Rob just say something nice about bevel up planes? Where Rob?! This guy must be an impostor!! Lol

Maybe this works well for western style chisels, but for high carbon steel you will need a 2000 or 3000 grit stone before hitting 6,000.

Wow Rob that is good I'm in the process of making a moxon vice and your tuition will work wonderful. I'm using construction grade timber. Thanks for the video by the way I really like your apron 👏👍👌❤

Thanks for showing us this in another one of your very informative videos, Rob! For me, I will need more practice on the finer aspects of woodworking, especially after hand surgeries. The Shawn Shim and your dovetail saw does make the process much more enjoyable, especially when trying to narrow the "learning curve". Your time and effort that you put into your teaching is greatly appreciated from myself and other woodworking enthusiasts that I associate with. "Cheers!"

Nice. I learned something today. Thanks.

If you sharpen and set your own saw by hand, I presume that you lose some of the precision of the kerf width. What would you recommend? Measure the kerf width after each set and stone the teeth to even the set? Measure the kerf width and adjust the offset?

Not a realistic presentation if what actually happens. For one, he omits fitting the tenon. The secret isn’t sawing like a robot, it’s learning how to fit a tenon!

Is it really necessary to pay $150 for a spokeshave? Can you recommend a good one? I would have bought a wood river but I didn't trust the short knife blade.

Dude looks like a Lady. Bummer

Have you (Rob) or anyone here considered HDF instead of MDF?

Rob, I bet you have a really interesting life story to tell. I wonder if you would consider doing an episode where you kind of tell us how you came to be. like what got you started off in this field, what you did in the past and all of that. I hear a bunch of slivers here and there but think a lot of us would love to hear it. You're a really inspiring craftsman. You help so many ppl and wish I could do more to support the cause than I am, I will for sure donate to the PHP when things in my life are a little more settled, I'm in the beginning of my career. I have been a carpenter since I was 17, I am 42 now, about to take my dying fathers business over (standing seem metal and flooring, but we build houses too). But I have dreamed of woodworking my entire life. I have been really acquiring the "proper tools" I need to have a really good start with and have no delusional visions that I can make a living using hand tools only, unless I grow a channel and people support it that way, lol. but that's not that common of an occurrence. I have the can do attitude and a passion for woodworking and a fair amount of useful knowledge to proceed. I have built furniture before but never using the methods you teach, which in my opinion are the proper ways to breed quality, and I think there's a lot of value in it. The world now adays doesn't really seem to care anymore about quality, as fast as its progressing, which is a shame. The market is flooded with garbage furniture being produced in masses that just will not hold up. But the cost is so cheap, its just throw it out and buy another. .sad. sorry about this being so long, but keep up the great work, we need more people like us to keep this craft/art alive !

can you tell us again, what your technique is all aboot?

I don't trust any company that wont just tell you what steel they're using. chromium vanadium steel could mean basically anything but likely just means standard ingot chromium steel with tiny amounts of vanadium added not for carbide formation but grain refinement. so basically any budget stainless steel. if it was actually a true stainless vanadium steel they would certainly advertise it with some buzzwords like "powder steel" or high speed steel or something.

I don't understand the reason the shooting board might cup. Where is that tension coming from?

Great explanation and work. Me is always told that if such a joint is too tight, the glue-up will be less stronger. How does it hold with your piece when the joint is made a but tighter? Thanks for sharing

I’ve never been so confused about something and then have it click so hard when you explained it. This is GENIUS!

This is a useful jig. And, if you have access to a mill, quick and easy to make. No mill? With the aid of a digital caliper, it is not hard to make with a hand file. Does not have to be brass- aluminum works just as well, and is cheaper/easier to source. Instead of using a knife to make the mark, using a pointed saw (with the same kerf) that is pull-cut makes a small trough that the saw fits into- great precision.

I've been using a similar technique using blue tape as the spacer. Very close, but not perfect every time. The Shawn shim is a great idea for repeatability. I'm going to measure my saw this morning when I get to the shop. Thanks for presenting another innovation.

This isn't anything new Rob. A few years ago I remember you demonstrating the same thing.

Wrong experiment. you left the two other in water longer while drying up and measuring the first one :)

You leave less space for glue.

I just tried this and it works great.

Very clever Rob. Thanks for the tips.

I love the Shawn shim

I know this was 2 years ago but I've got some questions I'm hoping you can answer, otherwise I'm taking this jet mortiser back. The jet I'm using is essentially the same as your Delta. I'm trying to make ½"through mortises in ½" thick cherry and the bit is smoking going through the wood. Please help.

great stuff, Rob.

At 6:04 did you accidentally mark the pin on the wrong side of the tail. You talked about the Sean Shim in a previous video and I had to watch it a couple times to get my head around what was going on. Only mentioning this because it might be hard for somebody trying to follow this to understand or maybe I’m wrong and still don’t get it. Magical timing. My marking saw that you’re demonstrating came in the mail today! Woohoo.

Wow...when we see the idea..we think it is so simple...but thinking about the idea we see so genial it is in simplicity itself Shaw shim it is an amazing idea by the way (with that sawblade red knife be Romeo and Juliet) Thanks for all video class and constant support Congratulations from Brazil

Love the Shawn shim!

I could have used that trick 50 years ago. ☺

Now it sinks in to what you were telling me when I was in class.👍😀

Thanks Rob, makes perfect sense.

Tks

A man of noteworthy morals and integrity right there. He said it right when he said "there's nothing like helping another person"

Amazing. Thanks. However, you shun using a guide to hold the blade or chisel when sharpening because you can learn to do it without. But you promote using a Shaun shim and saw blade knife. How do you resolve that contradiction.

Great video Rob- will certainly help as I practice. Thanks for all you do to support woodworkers and through PHP!

Brilliant.

Another awesome video rob, thanks for all you do.

make sure you check it rob, just got one with a .0025 gap in the center, width wise

god im so frustrated.... was all excited about getting the trend diamond stone, .... and there is a 2-1/2 thousandths dish in the 1000 grit side of it....... back to amazon it goes.

I never got a box or a signature!!!! I would loge one tough!!! btw i love the saw

So how do you fix when your only picking up the 2 ends on a sub .001 shaving. Ive done these things to my LN 6 and 7 and when sharpening the blade i even tried feathering the edges like youve suggested in videos. Still no luck

All metall workers and knife makers tell us to get to 16000 grit polish from 1000 grit you have to double the grit of the stone incrementally and use a 2000, then 4k, and 8k stones before 16k. That makes the edge very smooth and more stable like a katana. Same thing in wood sanding. You don't jump from 80 grit to 300. I understand your method is quick, but I respectfully believe if you added at least a 2000 grit stone and perhaps an 8k before 16k (which doesn't sharpen but polishes the blade), you will get much lasting blades. A 1000 grit sharpen metal is not very stable as it has larger micro teeth than a 2000. Perticularly if you use a diamond stone. You can replace that with 3M lapping papers that are much better quality and can go way beyond 16k. It will add 32 more seconds to your process, but you will get a mirror polish edge that lasts much longer on a 60 Rockwell A1 or A02 metal. I wonder if knife like sharp edge on a hande plane would cut the wood the same way. The back bevel that you add remides me of some Japanese knives that have a very small bevel on the back ( without a primary bevel) and it makes them very sharp. But the back bevel on those knives has much bigger angle than the front bevel.

ROB ROB I am so excited to report this travesty to you! You have an imposter. I found an imposter who made a grainy fake saying he is you and it was about this subject, Winding sticks..... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jqqXqsuE0ty8XZc.html His title he chose was "Winding Sticks With Rob Cosman" and he hacked the YT programming and backdated it 15 years. Report him!

Rob, I know you hear this a lot. You have improved my planning techniques 100 fold on your sharpening techniques. It has set me back a lot of funds, but it was worth it. I’ve been using water stones for 30 years. Shapton stones are by far the best. Thank you again.

I have been making MASSIVE errors with this and today, after figuring out my problem, I am hand grinding all of my plane blades. Grinder and chin wheel is in my future. What did I do? I bought some DMT dis sharp sharpening stones when I first really started getting into this. He recommends 1000 grit to start then to the 16000. Me? I have the “fine” dmt stone and I assumed it would be close to the 1k grit of the trend stone. Wrong, wrong, wrong!!! Insanely wrong. I looked it up because I have been needing to re sharpen my main bevel too frequently and found that the dmt “fine” is 600!!!! grit. Smh …. No wonder it’s not working as well. I mean I still get good results using hand sharpening rob teaches but it eats my blade up so fast I need to regains every other week. Trend stone in the mail… I have been basically working full the entire time and scratching my 16 k ..

Thanks

Joli travail, mais... Je disais donc très joli travail du bois mais petit problème de conception, il est très difficile d'attraper une carte dans une boite qui fait exactement la taille de la carte. On penche la boite, on secoue et souvent beaucoup de cartes tombent en même temps, à moins d'avoir un fond à 2 épaisseurs. La plus grande partie sur l'avant supporte les cartes, l'arrière de la largeur d'un doigt est moins épaisse, ainsi en appuyant sur l'arrière des cartes, elles se soulèvent et on peut alors en attraper une sans problème. Sinon merci pour la leçon de menuiserie ! ___________________________________ Nice work, but... So I said very nice wood work but small design problem, it is very difficult to catch a card in a box that is exactly the size of the card. You tilt the box, you shake and often a lot of cards fall out at the same time, unless you have a 2-ply bottom. The largest part on the front supports the cards, the back of the width of a finger is less thick, so by pressing on the back of the cards, they rise and you can then grab one without problem. Otherwise, thanks for the carpentry lesson!

This is where Rob differs from most other teachers. I think he really wants to keep the trade alive and really am in tune with his teaching methods. After a lot of searching, I have found m place, Sit down stay a while, you might just learn something! Thank you, Rob, for all you do, I really like watching your videos, and really love all of your saws, only can Offord the dovetail saw right now but, I'm saving up. Those chisels are my dream, I have most of the set up for sharpening that you recommend. Trend, 16k and i have a few other Shapton stones. PROMOTION If you have been back and forth about spending $300 on his dovetail saw, pull the trigger. I have said it before and will say it again, there's no better feeling then to spend good money on something, not knowing what you will get, then when it comes and make your first cut with it and immediately saying in your head" This is a game changer" .. there's no better feeling then that. Rob is a man of integrity. Not only does he sell quality tools that he himself uses, but he shows you exactly how to use them, no secrets here.