I've done quite a few compression angle stops by just heating the ferrule up with a torch and gently tapping an adjustable wrench fitted around the pipe behind the nut, this has worked for me every time. That's a pretty neat tool though and I can see where it would definitely come in handy if the stub-out was too short and tight to the wall or floor!

I recently purchased my first home and found you when I was looking up how to replace a toilet. I feel fortunate that I have found you and after watching many of your videos, I feel like I am better prepared for any pluming emergency. Thank you!

Always, Always change the compression nut. I've seen them split right down the middle (definitely over tightened). You're already changing the valve changing the nut is just cheap insurance. Great video Roger.

I ALWAYS change the compression nut and ferrule, I don't see the need to risk it. I absolutely love the ferrule blaster. If I can't fit the ferrule blaster I use the Pasco puller. If the Pasco puller can't fit, then I carefully use the tiny Tim hacksaw.

if there’s enough room to cut out the old compression and put a new one on all together i usually go that route, leaving enough room for the next guy to work on it 20yrs later is just the right thing to do. the only thing i noticed i do differently was when you sweat off the old soldered valve.. i always apply plenty of flux before and during the sweat, helping the older solder melt off faster then wiping it with a dry shop rag. it keeps you from needing to sand down the pipe as much before installing the new one :) love that ridgid valve tool btw, i use it daily as well!

He explained everything he was doing, very well done video.

Thank for for the detailed information,as a plumber i have learnt a lot there.

The cut and peel apart method is all I've ever known. But ive seen this tool for over a year now being used on the net and it looks like it's the real deal. Could save a lot of time

I love the one stop wrench works great! I use a duck puller for removing the ferrule.

Always just spun and pulled the ferel off with channel locks but no matter what use a little "plumbers friend" (sand cloth) to polish smooth the pipe before adding new stop. A touch of pipe dope goes a long way in this application to feel the right tension without over or under tightening. Good video thankyou

You should do a follow up video with real world applications, like underneath a super tight cabinet, or in between a toilet & wall with water constantly dripping out not allowing the solder to take.

Been using the Ferrule Blaster for a couple years now, love it!

My foreman talks about old compression stops that seat at a slightly different depth and the new ferrule sits in a slightly different spot. When the previous plumber really cranked that thing down it left the pipe smooshed, when the new ferrule goes on it doesn’t seal cuz it’s sitting in a different spot. Your thoughts? My favorite part of this video was how you stuck something (I’d use a screw driver) into the stop itself to turning it, while backing the compression nut. Why didn’t I think of that!

my guys love the blaster, life changing. in my days i would use channel lock side ways and wriggle back and forth

Thank you so much for sharing. Clueless home handyman here. I don't mind paying professionals, but have emergency now. Faster to learn and do now.

Olive puller is the best I found for removing ferrule/compression ring. Sometimes the stub out is so short ferrule blaster won't work. Olive puller screws onto the nut to pull it and the ferrule out.

I use one every day! I also apply a light thin coating with pipe dope as a thread lubricant, not as a sealant.

You should of went over the wrenches and brass ring remover in more detail. I have both and they are essential plumbing tools.

First I shut off the water to the house, then I take a pair of channel locks, and unscrew the old one off. Then I replace it with a new one. Reusing the old ferule is ok. If it is soldered and I have enough room, I will take my mini cutters and cut it shorter. Then reinstall new one. Works for me!

I already know how to change an angle stop I just want to see what you do 🤣

Hi Roger!, thanks for your videos! I should get the ferrule tool, but haven't had a need to use it, I usually use a rag to clean the existing ferrule and apply some plumbers pipe dope on it, then put the new angle stop on the old ferrule, usually the threads are the same on the nut and the new supply stop !

Hello Roger, I remove a compression ring every time. I use a tool from English tool company that I saw on See Jane Drill You Tube channel. Work's great.

Wow!!! You are awesome Roger!!!

I squeezed in another class before work. Great content!

I'm not a fan of the ferrel blaster, I use the Pasco ferrel puller with a impact driver or wrench. Also I've always put a little dope on the compression threads. I know compression threads don't need dope, but I started setting finish with an old plumber and he swore by it and Its just stuck with me.

I’ve got a “duck puller” from aquaduck for pulling off old compression nut and ferrules. Plan on getting a ferrule blaster, but it’s good to have both because the ferrule blaster can’t fit in all applications since it’s so much larger. Do you apply pipe dope to the ferrule when installing a new one?

Thank u for the reply on the tools p/n

Everything you did in this video is what I do.

Most times I just replace the guts of the valve. Never heard of the ferrel blaster, pretty cool.

I pull the Ferrell every time

I don't usually use a ferrule tool to get them off. I use two wrenches....and It can be a pita. I didn't even know there was a "ferrule blaster". Amazon order is already in. :P

Leave the old Ferrell on if can't be removed then wrap the old Ferrell with Teflon and do not over tighten it works

Can I remove a solder angle stop, clean up the pipe, and install one with a nut and Ferrell if I have enough room?

Seems like a good idea, does it work when the angle stop is against the escutcheon? I guess you can push the escutcheon in towards the wall and crush it then replace that to. The more I thing about it. I’ll just stick with my English tool for removing olives/Ferrules. Great video, learn something new everyday.

I use a Dual Thread 1/2 Inch Compression Sleeve Puller from English Tool company with a ratchet and extension to remove the compression fitting

Where can I find one of these Ferrule Blasters?

The first thing I do is cut off the old angle stop if there is enough excess pipe sticking out of the wall. Then I ream the end to be sure there is no sharp edge that can cause early failure of the pipe. Then I use sanding cloth or an outside wire brush to "Clean bright by mechanical means" the old pipe. If there is not enough pipe which there hardly ever is, I use a Duck Puller on compression stops. If the ferrule has been over tightened I use a Saf-T-Kut tool to break the ferrule. (Side note) I used a grinder to decrease the shaft size of the Saf-T-Kut tool everywhere the shaft protrudes from the orange body except the top of the shaft (where the cutter hits the shaft). This allows the shaft of the 'Saf-T-Kut tool' to go into the pipe far enough to allow the cutter to slice the ferrule when the last plumber has over tightened the ferrul and it won't allow the normal size shaft into the under size copper pipe. On the older stops that incorporate the white plastic "ball" and the "Push On Nut Locking Washer Clips" I attempt to push the threaded nut back against the wall and pull the 'Ball' far enough away from the Locking Washer to cut the locking washer with a pair of wire cutters. Then I pull off the threaded nut which also removes the ball. But in the case where the ball stays inside the threaded nut and it keeps moving the 'Locking Washer' closer to the wall I simply cut off the chrome escutcheon and use a pipe to hammer the whole nut into the sheet rock. Then I install a new escutcheon to cover the hole in the wall caused by the old nut (now inside the wall). Then I install the new escutcheon and new compression angle stop like nothing ever happened. On sweated stops I heat up the stop fast (with a Bernzomatic 8000 mapp gas torch) to melt the solder at the stop before the solder at the 90 inside the wall melts. If you heat up the stop super fast it will melt the solder before the pipe gets too hot. Then I swipe the hot pipe with a damp cloth to clean off the 'wet' solder. Next I grab the hot pipe with a WET cloth to cool the pipe off before it melts the solder in the 90 inside the wall. If there is water in the pipe that wont evaporate out quickly I will cut off the stop right where the stop hits the pipe (if there is room to do so) . Or I will drill out the inside of the stop so I can insert a "Jetsweat" to stop the water and then perform the above procedure.

This video is so full of double entendre. I was laughing so hard just in the first 3 minutes

Pasco puller and a ratchet. Just cause I can get a lot of leverage with that ratchet when they are stuck on there good.

Fancy puller tool, I have the cheap one that also does faucet handles. Like $7 at the big box stores but I am only a home owner if I was a turd herder doing that work every day I would have the better tool.

Nice vid. No Dahl valves??? I like solder. No compression angle stops.

Where can I get the ferrule puller? I don't see it on Amazon, at least.

Is it best to just always replace the ferrel?

Ive done some that are pex and they have a metal sleeve that goes inside the pipe but the ferrule on the plastic will not come off because the ferrule blaster will expand the plastic by shoving the metal sleeve into the pipe which forces me to cut the plastic back just to install another angle stop. If there isnt enough plastic then the wall has to be opened and a new stub out has to be cut it. I hate Pex in case you cant tell by my comment. 😂

What is name of that tool to pull off compression ring?

Do you need to use teflon tape when doing a compression fitting?

I had no idea there was sauter angle stops

Opening existing angle stops, kitchen, and-or bathroom lavatory fixtures within desired existing water in system post water service line valve, and-or meter off, works 75% within time. Post water off, system still holding water, un-able to solder, open all tub/shower valves, and-or if shower only valve, open it, leave it fully open, until completion. From single floor residential, and-,or commercial properties, to multiple story's makes no prevelance. Open all available outside hose bibbs, also all available tub/,shower valves, post water shut off..

I have a puller from English tool company.

those are quarter-turn valves. When we use the stops that have a rubber washer, we'll take the handle out when we put the heat to it. don't want to warp the rubber

If you had the choice, would you use a compression angle stop or solder? Which one do you feel is better and will stand the test of time?

I’m in the Dfw area where do you get that tool from?

Good video but pls list the tool that is a 2-tools one inside the other.

I would love to point out at least a dozen things you’ve done and or done that’s improper/very wrong!

Safe t cut cuts ferrule and does not thin out pipe

White bread is another way to stop the water to solder a copper pipe.

Man its crazy how different plumbing in the u.s is! In my country copper pipes are not allowed for these installations!

ferrul blaster is way too costly to me when theres alternatives.

just shark bite it ;) i had to lol

Why u using that cheap torch and propane?

It is a way easier in Germany xD

Compression stops are for DIYers. Get out the torch and solder like a real plumber.

Tell the customer its too close to the wall and the angle stop is seized. Charge the customer more