I live in the cloudiest part of Ohio our uv rays aren't near as intense the rubber washers on the screws last longer up here. It's so cloudy up here they built an army base here in WW2 so spy planes can't photograph it lol

Respectufully: we've been installing these roofs in Georgia for 25 years and if they are applied correctly, the screws can last for decades. Eventually though, you will need to replace the screws.

@@RoofingIntelligence Respectfully screws do not last for decades in Florida.

They will if you use cap screws. They are designed with a metal cap that covers the entire rubber washer. But they are 3 times the cost of regular screws.

@@sterileneutrino2288 Roofers in Florida go the cheap way. They slam it on and your problems are your problems in 8-10 years. But I have seen them used. Problem is the home owner doesn't have a clue.

If the vent is not going to really function that it's probably okay to skip it. In general, I install vents pretty much everywhere, regardless of the particulars of the building as it may do some good to vent even a little bit.

I would say go under the attic. The damage should be visible from there.

I agree

Metal Pole Lean To Back frne

That is a ridge vent he cut in. There is a gap between the panel and ridge cap that site can escape

I'd go every rafter just to be safe.

the panels are pretty sturdy for walking on. I always advise standing on the areas with the screws so as to be directly on top of a purlin.

Following, hopefully they answer soon!

I think the paper is redundant. The old shingles will serve as an adequate vapor barrier beneath the metal roof.

No, seems like a waste of time adding a layer of asphalt to a layer of asphalt.....

Tear that section of shingles off and replace the roof deck. Any other course of action will result in mold in the attic and possibly a large hole in the roof.

I never use treated lumber. The chemicals in the lumber can corrode the screws and the underside of the metal. Plus, the wood shouldn't be getting wet!

Typically 1x4 are better so the the screws for the metal go through them and into the original roof deck, really helps to hold everything down

1x4's work great.

I think you should be able to get away with 3"... I think people use 4" material to make it easier to hit the boards with the screws without worrying too much about accuracy... I could also be very wrong.

Yes

I don't wee why not.

I think a small depression shouldn't be a problem. By the time you install the wood purlins and metal, most small deflections will disappear. In any event, most dips in the roof affect only the appearance of the roof and not the function.

I have the same decking as you, and I definitely will strip off my single layer of shingles first. I like the idea of getting all that extra weight of the shingles off the roof, then put down the 1x4 furring strips. I know my roof has some waviness to it, so I can shim under the furring strips and get things leveled up better, before putting on the metal. Also, like you, I want to use a good sealing underlayment below the furring strips because I know this isn't going to be a quick project for me, and I don't want to be stressing out about water penetration from rain while I'm working on it.

I agree. Take off the shingles if you have the time and energy to do so.

26 gauge is adding 3/4 lb per SQ ft plus what little weight from the 1x4s. Not enough weight to negatively affect the roof. The shingles already have a vapor barrier under them plus the shingles themselves act as a barrier. Leave the ends of the strips open on the gable ends for better airflow and shell last long time.

We typically use 3" gun nails. I get the hot dipped galvanized ring shank nails. You could also use a 3" deck screw.

Wrong, you need to install a peel and stick water barrier before you install the metal panels. This will keep water from penetrating the underside of the metal roof and rotting the plywood.

@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 That's stupid, nothing is going to penetrate the metal roofing..

Timeless!