Yep, those were the days when things were simple and efficient

I very much agree! Think I'll have to buy myself a new strobe light. And, by the way, I'll have to buy the right sort of car to go with it ;-)

Still use mine. Mk1 Golf.

thanks for the comments, and its nice to get these comments, hopefully it goes well with the eyes

Thanks for the comments Paul, and just maybe I am a grandad..

Thank you for the comments, my pleasure

Thanks for the comments

Happy independence day USA. Thanks , I hope you enjoyed it.

@@D3Sshooter p

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped!

Really , that is great.... keep an eye on the steering column as that comes so close to the exhaust collector. I had to put extra spacers in. Mine is also a conversion 3.9 .. Lots of fun.... good luck with the work and maybe a video ?

@@D3Sshooter spacers in the engine mount?

Tastes Like Petrol txs

HarryHunterx thanks for the comments and good luck with your V8. Maybe post a video ?

@@D3Sshooter Good evening Sir. Yes look at my youtube channel und the link kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d8-Kkq-T19_Dmpc.html you can find a clip of my 1. hillclimb last year in the Austrian Alpes at Stoderzinken, which is also a stage at the famous Ennstal Classic. If you will send my contact details like Email address or facebook account I can send you fotos as well. Al the best Harry

Thanks for the comments, my pleasure

Thank you very much!

Thanks for the comments, happy that it helped out

Glad it helped

Thanks for the comments, you might also want to check the 123 ignition that is real cool. I just placed such an ignition

Thank you

Glad it helped

Thank you for the comments, that must have been an older model then ?

Oh yes, it is... one big engine and a lite body... Always fun at the traffic lights besides those new cars...of which the youngster think that they are fast. But when it jumps green... They see my tail hahaha

Yep that is still on my agenda

Thanks

Injection controlled.

That is because the ignition/explosion of the air fuel mixture has a bit of delay, so you need to ignite it a bit earlier so you get the force just at TDC or just after

Nope plug it in after

send me a picture of it....especially of the cables and where they go..

Hi Philip, no its not spring loaded. It only has a rubber seal and that is what gives a little resistance. Make sure that the oil pump notch is in the proper direction , if not turn it with a long screwdriver. If the distributor and oil pump notch is not properly aligned , the distributor will not be able to sink in and you will see and feel it immediate. Nor will you be able to start the car, as the distributor will not have latched in on the shaft. this looks more difficult then it is. Good luck

@@D3Sshooter thanks for the quick response. I was able complete the work today successfully thanks to your inputs. In my case I just needed to put on a new oil seal on the distributor as it was leaky. Happy New year to you - don't forget the video on the engine / gearbox mount replacement !

Thanks for the comments, its always good to check the real TDC with a degree wheel. that is the best thing to do before anythings else in your case. IF timing is off, it effects the ignition and even more importend the camshaft/valve timing. So if the timing is of, you might be able to compensate by rotating the distributor , but that is not going to fix the valve timing,,, so no... find the real TDC and check the camshaft alignment

Thanks for the comments , Its the Rover V8 3.9L indeed as found in the Landrover, rovers and I do believe also in the Buick as you mentioned.

@@D3Sshooter This engine was 4•4 litre in Australia.

Could be many things, wrong timing of the ignition and or valves, or even cross induction on the HT leads, make sure that they do not cross else you might get a unwanted induction that ignites a sparkplug on a cylinder that is not ready for its ignition

That was referenced to the V8 rover engine as a standard for this type

As far as i know yes

typical you get a bit more advance when the vacuum tube is connected, the more vacuum the more advance you get

@@D3Sshooter thanks

SORRY I WANTED TO SAY WHEN THE OUTLET OF PISTOL 4 NOT 3.

The best way if you have no marks , is just to position the engine in any position and place everywhere markers on the pulleys , so that once you placed the new timing belt its all in its original position.

@@D3Sshooter THANKS. ONE OTHER THING I LIKE ABOUT YOU IS THAT YOU REPLY PEOPLE. M.B.S MOSHITOA (SOUTH AFRICA)

Let me try to explain this: First a distributor has no clue what cylinder 1 is nor does it has any clue what the firing sequence is. Secondly the distributor has a vacuum membrane on the side, and that can be in the wrong place when installing . in such a way that you can't turm the distributor. Fourth, the distributor must fit into a slotted nut part of the oilpump and that can be a bit of fiddling. The old one is marked so in case the new one is an issue ( slotted shaft) , we can fit it right back without to any hassle. As I stated the new one has no clue where cylinder 1 is and the firing sequence... its just rotates , one output HTL at the time, so it you that needs to define where cylinder 1 starts and position the dissy so that it can be rotated for advance adjustments. ( remember the vacuum membrane on the side). It really does not matter where you start with cyl-1 as long as you get the slotted shaft right and the follow on HTL cabling aligned with the fireorder in the clockwise direction. Always check the position of the rotor with the marking on crankcase polly , for your first cylinder at the compression stroke (TDC).. I hope that helps

Can you explain that please, not sure what you mean

@@D3Sshooter the advance retard vacuum cylinder should point down to the right yours is 180 degrees out.....but it doesn't really matter if you look at the MGBGTV8 workshop supplement you will see keep up the good work!

Thanks for the comments, yes indeed

125 euro