I’m a Land Rover technician and that ford engine looks like the coyote’s 5.0 cousin. Different components by Land Rover, different blower, and more things, the engine is decent with good maintenance, we haven seen some in the 250k miles mark, but to get there you have to spend a lot of money. He had trouble getting the injector out, even with the special tool sometimes they are very difficult to remove and sometimes the plastic cracks. We do not rebuild engines due to quality replacement parts available. If you try to get new bearings pistons etc is impossible trough JLR, so most of them are used or new engines installed in vehicles, most common failure overheating due to leaking crossover pipe. Great video! And trust me to remove a lot of the components in the engine bay is a interesting task most of the time.

This is off topic but it is important for me to say. I've done some public speaking in the past, and you my friend are a natural public speaker. Let me expand on that. You are very articulate in that you don't stumble over your words. You don't mumble your or add a bunch of "umms" or "uhhs" when you speak. In my opinion, and others too, the ability to connect with the audience quickly is vital to success. You do that. Your knowledge base is solid and you welcome comments. I don't know much about engines but I enjoy your videos. Good work. Cheers

I am thinking that the piston and head damage was a spark plug electrode, which means it happened, and then someone replaced the plugs, which is why the ones you removed looked so good. The plastic likely came from a broken chain rail, which was replaced, but they didn't notice that one part, and they didn't notice that leaking timing chain tensioner, which was likely the cause of the entire issue.

Thank you for doing this one! I had a 2010 Jaguar XF Supercharged with this engine until I sold it in May of last year. I had an ECU tune that jacked it up to about 550hp and had it from 42k miles until about 85k miles, so let me tell everyone about the quirks. 1: The coolant system is the main weakness. The water pump design is absolute garbage. I had to replace the pump right after I bought it, then again at about 75k miles. Pretty typical for these. It's not a terrible job, but not cheap either. The other issue, which luckily I didn't have, was with the crossover pipe. That was that flat black coolant pipe he removed from the rear of the motor. They are seam welded and not very robust. After many heat cycles, it gets brittle and starts splitting at the seam, and it's not an easy thing to get to. There are a ton of other plastic fittings that get brittle which I didn't have a problem with in 4.5 years of ownership, but I knew I was on borrowed time, which was why I sold it. 2: As everybody knows, the timing system sucks on these. It's a craps shoot. I never had any major chain noise, but as other comments have mentioned, the Jaguar 15k mile oil change interval is bullshit. I changed my oil religiously at 5k miles. Apparently, there are small oil passages in the tensioner that can clog up, slowing down how fast it builds tension. Too little tension at startup for too long wears out the guides. These 5.0's were apparently much better in the timing chain/tensioner department than the earlier 4.2's, but it's still something an owner needs to keep an eye on. 3: As he mentioned, the supercharger isolation coupler is another issue. Not a major one, but something that does need to be addressed after a time. I didn't notice any noise from mine, but I'm sure it was getting worn. On the other hand, this engine is so well insulated that you can't hear ANY supercharger whine, even at full throttle/max rpms. 4: That tube that went up to the oil fill hole was for vacuum draining the oil. I got a big vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and was able to change my own oil, which is WAAAAY cheaper than doing it at the Jag dealer. And with the cartridge oil filter up top, it's very easy to change, and makes almost no mess. 5: If well cared for, it's an amazing engine. The engine is so smooth, yet brutal with its torque all the way through the RPMS. I took my XF to the drag strip for open track night many times and it was way faster than it had any right to be. At around 4300lbs and with Continental Pilot Super Sport all seasons, I did a best time of 12.2@115mph with a 1.8 60' time. It would do consistent 12.3's. It was faster than just about every Charger/Challenger that wasn't a Hellcat, most Mustangs, and most Camaro SSs. I was usually about a tenth slower than C7 Corvettes, but they are like 700-800 lbs lighter than my beefer. I do miss my Jag, but with it getting older I was just worried about expenses. The engine is set back in the bay, so even just a spark plug change is a pain for the back cylinders. Overall, though, besides the two water pumps, which only leaked and never overheated the car, my XF was very reliable and never left me stranded from a mechanical issue. And I may or may not have had it up to 130+ on old route 66.

The last option for the mystery plastic is a previous set of timing guides. The two different flavors of RTV might support that idea since someone else was definitely in there.

You actually looked right past the issue. Timing tensioner was stuck in the aluminum guide. Very common.

Don’t sweat it that this engine wasn’t blown up. It’s cool to see these tear-downs on more complicated/exotic engines even without any carnage. And you’re interesting to watch either way. Keep up the good work!

Yes, the HP pumps need to be timed to the rest of the engine. The pressure pulses they create are included in the fuelling mapping calibration.

I've commented on this before, but the manufacturer recommended oil change intervals were ridiculously far apart, and that makes up a huge part of how often they failed. Design, complexity, cost cutting and so on are all very obvious reasons too, but in some cases it was every 15,000 miles (with Jaguar specifically)

"Timing was never bad on this" 😂 Been working on these engines for 10 years... 5 things they messed up on these engines.. 1 oil intervals from the dealer, 2 timing designs, 3 head bolts threads trips out when overheated, 4 no oil pressure switch, 5 no temperature gauges on Jaguar models (back to number 3). And thank you very much!

Watching this makes me really appreciate the simplicity of the engine in my classic car. No fancy computers or fuel injection or wiring harnesse..no tons of plastic either.

Edit: the pipe leading up to the left valve cover is an oil drain. These engines are designed to do oil changes from the top of the vehicle. You pump the oil out through that pipe using a vacuum pump and the oil filter is on top. I’ve only done a little bit of work on the 5.0SC (stopped working on them when they were still fairly new), but I’ve done a lot of work on the 4.2SC and they are absolutely stupid to work on. Coolant hoses running everywhere, lots of leaks, zero thought put into the design. The worst repair I ever had to do on one was fuel injectors (port, not DI). I think it was like an 8 hour job, and I think we had to order like 30 individual gaskets and seals for the job, which took literally hours on the phone with the Jaguar parts person to describe that we needed. Absolutely stupid how these things are built. The 1 piece high pressure line makes sense, joints are just another place to leak, which is unbelievably dangerous when taking about gasoline under 2000+ psi. What doesn’t make sense (except to JLR engineers apparently) is running the lines behind the engine mount bracket. But, par for the course for JLR design I’d say. As a tech who used to work for a European specialty shop, I have nothing good to say about JLR. All horribly designed from a service/repair standpoint, and all terribly unreliable.

Thank you! Never been a fan of the Jaaaaaaaag, personally, especially after a bad experience with the Ford/Jag 3.9L v8 that I STILL have customers coming to me for parts. Overengineered for what they are, a bastad and a half to work on... I got an earful from my Master Tech when another service writer took on the job without, y'know, bothering to consult anybody that actually knows about cars. Of course they are decently powered, and just like any other modern European sports car, the 'third-owner market' for these makes them affordable beasts to buy at auction. And run them for a year or so before they blow up. I love seeing how these things come to be broken. It's like watching the recreation of a train wreck - you know what is going to happen, but you can't help but grab the popcorn and watch it unfurl in all of its gory glory. I also love the fact that, no matter how old or new the engine is, once you strip out the electronics and all of the accessories, the model of suck-squeeze-bang-blow hasn't changed in over a century. Doesn't matter if you're a 100 year-old Model T or a modern TFG, it all gets recognizable once you hit the bare-bones long block. Thank you for every minute of footage you give us. There is so much knowledge to be gained from watching these, and every video I learn something new even on the engines I thought I knew like the back of my hand. Engine Requests: Chrysler: Slant Six, MORE HEMIS, 1.4L FIRE, 3.3/3.8, 318/360 Ford: 300 Inline Six, Windsor, FE, 1.0 EcoBoost, 1.4 EcoBoost, 4-Valve Modular, 5.2 Voodoo, 6.7 PowerStroke General Motors: 3100/3400/3800 Olds, LUW/LWE 1.8l i4, L5P Duramax Honda: B Series, D Series, K Series Nissan: VC20 Subaru: FJ series, EZ30/36 Toyota: 1GZ-FE, 1ZZ or 2ZZ Other: DT466 Old School Unicorns: GM 702 Twin-Six, Oldsmobile 5.7 Diesel, LT5 Lotus (C4 ZR1), Ford Trinity Modern Unicorns: Toyota 1LR-GUE, Chevrolet Gemini, 7.3 Godzilla

I've got the "3.9" Ford version of the AJ in my Lincoln LS and I absolutely love it. It's such an underrated, misunderstood engine. It's physically tiny, makes incredible torque, and is just good at everything. Really great engines.

When I had to do my supercharger removal I have to visit the dealership to buy some replacements for some parts that I "altered" during teardown. During that time I was able to talk to some of the technicians there and also probe their brains a bit, they were super nice and VERY helpful. For some reason I figured a high end dealership would be more stuck up. Shout out to the Jaguar guys in Lakewood Colorado.

Damn Man, I'm in no way an engine techie or anything close, but that was by far the best dismantle/diagnose video EVER. Thank you and I hope other creators take note!!

you know its a fancy engine when it doesnt have a dip stick to fight with

That pipe coming up to the oil cap is for oil evacuation. Those engine are designed to have the oil suctioned out and not remove the drain plug. Awesome teardown!

It's an absolute beast of an engine. 510bhp and a tonne of torque makes this a blast to drive with no turbo lag

Our 13 Range Rover sport had this engine. It was actually a really good motor. Only had to replace supercharged pulley and a few related parts at about 90k miles We bought it new. Had a few other issues but engine was a reliable beast!

This engine teardown was a perfect definition of "peeling back the onion" Fun to watch

Being the owner of a salvage business means never having to cry over blown up motors, transmissions, body parts, chassis parts, etc. All those things that made real tears come to the eyes of the car's owners. Good thing, because being surrounded by tens of thousands of dollars of carnage would otherwise be unbearable. Thanks for the video!

As usual, great video 👍 I don't know why, but I get an Adam Sandler vibe when I watch these videos, in a good way. Thank you for making these teardowns.

You are supposed to "turn" the injectors 90 degrees to take the valve covers off. Those engines are ALWAYS maintained to the highest degree, and "SHOULD" last 300-500K miles, but never do because the cars loose their value so quickly. And Sadly, like the Rolls Royce Merlin engines of WW2, they are beautifully made, yet sold to the mass's to go to war on the worlds highways. Work of ART inside that engine.

If you ever get the opportunity and have the inclination I would love to see the Rover and the Ford engine pulled down as a tandem strip. I just think the side by side teardown would be amazing.

I’ve never seen this specific engine torn down. But it actually looks a lot like a WAY over engineered terminator cobra engine. Thank you, I learned some things.

I've had the "pleasure" of working on these shits, mostly maintenance but there was one where i did a thermostat, which is relatively easy, but in the removal process I broke the little 45' nipple that sits in the water pump. I tried to find it separately but it would take too long from ebay so I instead had to get the complete water pump from Rover. The nipple really likes to break, if anyone does a t-stat or any hoses - watch out and keep 400-500 bucks on hand for a pump. There's also a plastic piece behind the pump that mates to it and a crossover tube, get that as well because you do not want to go in there again over a 10-15 dollar plastic piece. Also, the supercharger belt is in front of the accessory belt. If you need an accessory belt, you need to remove the blower belt and tensioner with bracket because the accessory belt wraps around an idler pulley that faces toward the timing cover. The accessory belt tensioner has to come out for the same reason. At least the socket sizes aren't unusual and consistent.

I have absolutely no clue why I get so into these tear down videos?

I see all those FoMoCo parts just hanging around in there 👀👀

Those impacts have an issue with the retainer ball in the chuck getting stuck. I have the same one and it did it when it was new. Not hard to take apart and free it up. There are videos on here showing you how

Hey, JLR mechanic here. The steel timing tensioners would dig into the aluminum guide rails causing the loose timing chains seen here. They would cause noise and then jump time, turning on the check engine light. Lack of oil changes made this problem worse. JLR came out with updated timing chain rails that had a steel insert to prevent this problem. The AJ 5.0 L V8 and especially the 3.0 L V6 (the same engine minus 2 cylinders) have a long list of problem spots and seldom last longer than 120 K miles

The oiling system on that engine was both extremely impressive, but also an exercise in overengineering. Looks like many things would be very difficult to fix with the engine in the car. Based on this and other videos, it seems like the oil pressure fed tensioners are really the downfall on many engines. The oil pressure goes low for whatever reason (And during startup) and then you have noise, or far worse, jumped timing. I think a simple spring would be a much better idea, or, a back-up spring for when the oil pressure is low.

Totally agree---returned due to noise. I bet that with new timing components, this engine would've been fine (even with the light piston damage). I guess we'll never know where the mystery plastic piece came from

Here's an old solution to keeping a tool on the impact: Put a piece of paper or cloth around the end of the extension. It takes up the slack holding the tool. (voilà)

My Double Six Jaguar tear down at Fourintune Garages Inc. required a full day of removing the acorn nuts to dig down to the rocker arms. Eventually we held the crank in our hands. So much fun. Super video son. Thank you very much.

Fun to see this beast come apart. Nice to see you working on something that has value and parts are saved all matched up etc.

Really excited to watch this one. That metal tube by the chain is to evacuate the oil through. Makes the job really easy.

Problem with the early 5.0L s/c AJ/V8 is that the tensioner pins get stuck in the softer material of the chain guide. JLR know about this and have modified tensioners from 2017 (iirc) onwards so that they have a metallic plug in the guide that has the same hardness as the tensioner pin.

The biggest weakness of these engines is the timing chain tensioner rails. Up to 2012, they wear where the tensioner pushes on them. At around 90,000 miles, the tensioner rails are so worn, they can no longer keep the timing chains tight. The chains jump time, and the valves get broken off and destroy the engine. I have bore scope photos of piston tops with valves embedded in them. Later engines have a steel button on the rail where the tensioner pushes on it. I can't believe the engineers let that one get past them.

I just wanted to thank you!!! I have been watching you doing these take downs for a while now and because of it I called and got a computer for my jeep and it took care of the issues I was having I love watching you take down these special engines. You help me in knowing them better and I now have a great source for parts in my business keep up the good work

If you have the time it may be worth it to look up the parts for your Milwaukee tool. I’ve had a Milwaukee drill for the past 10 years, and it’s used everyday. It’s one of the last brushed versions, before they switch to their fuel brush-less system. Anyway it finally crapped out, and needed brushes, and all the rubber parts had worn off, so I thought I’d just replace it. I looked up the parts first though, and a new drill body/handle with brushes was under 50 bucks. It’s like brand new again, good for another 10 years.

Love your videos, look forward to them every Saturday night

That’s the only engine I can recall that makes two cracking sounds for each head bolt. Unusual

Do a differential (leak-down type) compression test before doing the teardown... That will tell you a LOT... Then, disect the oil filter element to get a better look at it... Read up on the TSB's or Re-calls on the engine before tearing it down further... Chances are, if you have a good engine, you will know with those 3-things...With that being said, you DID find definite problems with this engine, because you DID do the tear-down... And because if those discoveries, you saved somebody a lot of headaches, you provided your viewers a great service here on You Tube, and You will earn good money selling the valuable parts from this machine... Cudo's to you, Amigo!!!

It's kinda interesting that the oil manufacturers specify an absolute limit for mileage, and the vehicle manufacturers just started running with that as the new standard.

Nice job. Simple enough engine to work on. I think that’s probably covered about 200k. The crank just needs polishing and new shells. 1 new piston although I would replace the set. Cheap enough. Rehone the bores. The rest is just nuts and bolts. As for the chains and that missing plastic, someone has changed them before without replacing the tensioners. And they’ve put pre mod ones in. So it was probably done some years ago. In the uk at least there are companies that reline the supercharger rotors with that hard plastic.

loved your teardown, tools every time. massive looking turbo, learning all the time.

There is zero excuse for using a proprietary bolt drive. It is a miracle that the British car industry remains alive in any form.

That was either very low mileage, or very well cared for as there was zero sludge, discoloration or overheating.

Can't wait to see you do this to a C8 Vette motor.

Loved seeing all the parts with FoMoCo stamped on them.

As someone whovs worked on quite a few of these AJ8 in various sizes, the 5.0 was the least reliable because of three main issues: Timing chain guides, there's an updated part number for them but it's a very labor intensive job. Also the adjustable cams get stuck because of the extended oil change intervals but can be cleaned pretty easily during a timing chain guide replacement. Water pump goes bad pretty regularly and if not caught will blow a head gasket and at the worst melt these engines. Third is the plastic coolant pipes. They fail pretty regularly. Internally aside from the timing chain guides they're solid engines and aside from the timing chain issues of the 5.0, the 4.2 and 4.4 go 300k+ miles without any major issues.

You don't have to buy new tools for existing fasteners. Eventually they'll run out of shapes. Found a pentagon Allen screw the other day. Luckily I could get some vise grips on it.

Hi Eric, thanks for another great video. In the last few months I've started going through your entire teardown history and have watched most of them now. You've definitely got a knack for making a simple snappy and witty video without any BS. Keep it up. This engine was definitely a bit more complicated and unusual than your average teardown, and I quite enjoyed it for what it revealed. Love that you're trying to maintain some variety. As far as future teardowns go, I'd love to see any of the following: Toyota: 4AGE/GTE/GZE 3SGTE Nissan: RB20/25/26 (twin cam preferred) Mazda: KF-DE, KF-ZE, KL-DE, KL-ZE, KL-G4 Subaru: EZ30, EZ36 Thanks again, keep up the good work

Great effort, excellent job at capturing the right angles. This was a really good tear down video!

The play in the supercharger isn't because of soft material. It's a set (3) of spring steel pins in the coupler that allow some buffer for vibration. They wear out and the slot the springs are in basically becomes a 1/4 inch slot that allows the engagement pins to slide that 1/4 inch distance back and forth without the resistance the spring would provide. So it becomes sloppy with that play you noted. It's not a big deal but whenever you take off the supercharger to replace the inevitable Y cooling pipe failure (that fails after about 4 to 5 years), most people replace the supercharger coupler with a solid design that is softer but tends to last basically forever. It's all over YT. Oh I should add, the Y pipe that fails is only on the 3.0 V6 because it's plastic but you can replace it with aluminum. 5.0 comes with aluminum Y pipe. And that bolt you found happened to me too. If someone has taken the supercharger off which I'm betting they did on yours and I KNOW they did on mine, I believe they dropped the bolt into the valley as they put the top of the supercharger back on. They gave up looking for it and put a new bolt in. In my case I found one bolt that wasn't like the others. Obviously they didn't want to hassle finding the original design and they just through a standard bolt in. Then I found the original in the valley like you did.

Have a relative of this engine in my 04 V8 LS. Great engines, when they aren't overheating. 280hp was not bad for the time, especially considering the weight of the LS at 3800 pounds or so. Though mine needs work. Due to my dad thinking he is Mr mechanic, Its got 2 of the valve cover bolts broke off in the cylinder head.

Huge undertaking Eric. Man, complicated as all heck. Hope the engine is good. Be well my man.

Thank you for doing a jaguar! Its nice to see european cars on this channel, just to see how they are built differently

Greetings from Newcastle, England. Just discovered your channel, the teardowns are awesome. They’re helping me get through the boredom of being laid up in bed with covid 👍

Great looking design.. complex to work on. Impressive parts

That was a really interesting tear down. A complex design with some odd aspects (cam in the oil pan to drive the high pressure fuel pumps). Thanks for staying with that one, it was interesting without major carnage. As someone else commented, I wonder if someone was in there doing the chain guides before and that is where the plastic came from and how the FOD happened to that piston. And, great score on that Mustang, hope you make good money on that, as well as this engine.

Why do I like these videos? I don’t even like working on my own car? Yet I’ve been binge watching g these videos all week. Lol

Your channel is like therapy to me while I'm working and I work in software, but love building engines as a hobby.

Yes the high pressure fuel pumps have to be timed because it has to build pressure at the right time or else the amount of fuel is not correct.

Ooof. I did the head gaskets on one of those that had been severely overheated. It had a coolant leak (from the oil cooler) and was driven on the freeway with low coolant. Let's just say it smoked *for a while* when it rolled into the yard and died. It wasn't terribly terrible to take the heads off, there's just lots of everything in the way. Doing it in situ was definitely not that fun of an adventure. BTW, I just loosed the fittings at the pumps and *persuaded* the fuel lines a bit to bother me a bit less while I took the right head off.

Its nice to see you make some bread for a change. Also nice to see that those motors ain't too bad.

Excellent video and the complexity of that engine reminded me of why the future is electric!

I'm a strong believer in these engines AS LONG CHANGE THE OIL AND FIX THE TIMING GEAR ISSUE. A weekend in the garage and $700 in parts and tools is all it took for my XKR-S and I couldn't be happier. I've noticed that in the jag community, there's alot of folks who have it in their heads that because jag developed the engine, they knew what's best for it. It's usually people who just throw their money at mechanics rather than familiarize themselves with the engine, and that's why there are so many failures.

This one must have been built while Ford was with Jaguar. I noticed the FoMoCo on the leaky chain tensioner. As always, I enjoyed the tear down. They crammed a lot of stuff in a limited space on this one!

Dude! Awesome! I have the AJV6 in my Landy, which is just this with the last 2 cylinders blocked. I've never seen one disassembled before. I learned so much.

No random inspection ports, no signs of overheating, no piston McNuggets, no Forbidden Glitter, all connecting rods connected . . . that's probably the least damaged engine I've seen you tear down so far. It makes a nice change.

I love a head bolt that snaps back!! satisfying And a big FU to engineers that cant simply use a 6 sided bolt.

That long pipe is for oil changes, they have a suction system that attaches to it an sucks the oil out of the motor.

I changed my coolant crossovers in the SCv6 version of this motor, I watched very carefully and saw the two plastic coolant pipes you pulled which were such a pain with the engine in the car. Thanks for the fantastic vid and tear down, cheers!

I re-watched the removal of the first head and yes, it appears that you did skip breaking that bolt loose… 🤣 Excellent video as always!

I used a Milwaukee impact like yours doing the engine rebuild on my Impala. You could replace the bad chuck in it and keep using it

Potentially could have used a fuel system and new timing chain tensioners, other than that I don't think anything was really wrong with it. (Minus the light piston and head damage. But minor things like that are actually fairly common)

I buy a lottery ticket each week mostly in hopes of using the proceeds to buy an XK, you’re trip through this fabulous engine has me knowing all those losing tickets were worth it. Will buy another ticket tomorrow.

Great inside to Jaguar quality! Absolutely fascinating to watch this tear down! Cheers.

Will we ever get an update on the LT1 heads if they were ok without leaks?

What you're looking at for that damage is the ground electrode from a sparkplug. Unlucky! They usually make it out the exhaust valve without hitting anything. That head should clean up and be fine, just can't have sharp edges on any of the dents. Not that you'd want to sell it as perfect I'm sure.

Fantastic teardown as usual!

Love your work Eric, good stuff and thanks for your effort,

Hopefully you fix your impact. Usually those chucks have pretty basic retainers with parts readily available from somewhere like ereplacementparts. Probably a broken spring or something in this case

Interesting way to add HPFP to an earlier design, I guess! Also, compressible oil is cool...

We All appreciate u using fast motion when u take off multiple similar bolts. Some less clever KZfaqrs torture us with unneeded regular speed mundaness.

Not sure if you've ever heard this before. Those connectors are priceless. So many times I've seen damage to wiring and needed a connector to do a repair but unable to get a factory replacement.

I did valve covers gaskets on one of these in an XJ. Book gives 8 hours for both banks. The absolute worst part was getting the injectors out. Took longer then I want to admit even with the proper tool. 🤫

I would love to see the non supercharged version of this engine. These have so many timing and head gasket issues and not too much you tube content. Keep up the great work!

I love this engine. This was a great teardown!

Thanks for another glorious tear down. That was defiantly an interesting one

Keep up the good work, dude. Finally found a truck at a reasonable price for me, might be hitting you up for a 351 Windsor at some point.

Don’t think we didn’t notice the new cordless ratchet. Is that the new extended high speed?

Really makes you appreciate LS architecture.

I drive a 94 chevy s10 2.2 with 648,000 miles on it ! Ive spent more on gas than anything then probably windshields - tires - exhaust and brakes more than anything else ! all original engine - trans and rear end !

Damn I'd hate to put that motor back together cool tear down though ✌️

If you can ever get a GM LM2 3.0 diesel I'd love to see it. I have one in my Silverado and its been awesome.

Super cool teardown. keepem coming.

Eric, I love seeing you make theoretical boat loads of money on engines as much as seeing ones that went to Valhalla. Would love to see more winners! Awesome work.