You are so welcome!

Yay! That's always the goal: to describe it so that others can DO it! :-)

Thank you! There are lots of videos in the archives...you can binge watch them! :-)

Yes, you ARE. A wonderful teacher!!

You're welcome! Sometimes you just want to see the thing you want to see, and not all the rest of it. :-)

There are so many variations on how this cast on can be done and how it can be used! ML, two circs, as a PCO, as a closed CO (and either way, worked flat or in the round). It's a great cast on. :-)

I'm so glad to hear you are a better knitter because of my videos! :-)

Find a reason to try it! It's soooo easy! :-)

I spent a whole day in utter frustration trying to learn JMCO for my first sock! Tried your method of Turkish cast on and had it done in 10 minutes! Thankyou so much for a brilliant video Roxanne

You're welcome! I'm so glad you liked the article and the video! :-)

Sure, you can use two circs.

In most cases, they will be interchangeable. JMCO has a couple of characteristics the others don't have, that can sometimes be an issue when making a substitution (usually the issue is with JMCO, rather than the other way around). It really depends on what you're using it for, and what the stitch pattern is. I'll be discussing those characteristics in the JMCO video. If I had to rank the three CO, I'd put Turkish first, with JMCO second, and figure-8 last.

I tend to prefer m1 incs over kfb in most cases, but my aesthetic and the process I prefer isn't the same as what others prefer.

Any toe-up sock pattern that calls for the figure-8 or Judy's Magic CO can be done using the Turkish CO, instead.

There are lots of brands these days that have nice flexible cables The ones shown here are Signature Needle Arts needles. They are on the expensive end of the spectrum. Knit Picks needles, on the other end of the price spectrum, are not *quite* as flexible, but certainly flexible enough. Other brands that have nice cables are Addi Lace and Addi Rockets, and Chiao Goo, as well. The needles that seem to have the least flexible cables are bamboo, although I have heard that there are at least some companies that are now selling bamboo needles with more flexible cables. I rarely use bamboo, so I can't help you narrow things down there, but this is a constant source of discussion on Ravelry in the Needles and Tools forum, so you might have good luck there, if that's what you need.

LynnAnn Thomas Have you tried knit picks, addi clicks or chiao goo needles? I tried all 3 and all are good with diff price points. Just a matter of preference. Cords are very flexible

I'm so "invested" in two sets of KP's that i can't afford to try any other sets right now. I do have several of the brands you mentioned in fixed circs of various sizes. I'm so disappointed with the KP's cables and joins.

The demonstration worked in the round is shown in the video, starting at 6:38.

I’m sorry I wasn’t clear. I meant in round like for a hat. In the round but not closed. Thank you for your reply.

The cast on method creates two sets of stitches that are worked in opposite directions. It can either be used as a closed cast on or a provisional CO. If you use it as a provisional CO that you also want to work in the round, by joining the sts of one half, then you'd work across one needle and join those sts in the round. For example, if you want to knit a hat with 100 sts, using a PCO, so that you can work the ribbing or hem later on, you'd CO 200 sts (100 loops on each needle). You'd work across the 100 sts on the first needle, and join in the round. That is, after you worked st 100, you'd work as you do for knittin gin the round, and work stitch #1. The other 100 sts would remain on the other needle (acting as a stitch holder) untill you were done with the body of the hat. You would then return to the sts sitting on the other needle, join the yarn and work the ribbing/brim/hem/whatever.

I use different increases in different situations. Sometimes I will try one and decide I don't like the look, or I will switch how I mirror them. It all depends on the project.

It isn't possible to start from opposite directions and maintain the pattern. There will always be a 1/2-stitch offset. If you think of the sts as shaped like this \/\/\/\/\/ on the front side of stockinette, then on the back side, you will see rows of offset bumps. The Vs are the legs of the sts. Where the legs are wide, a strand connects them in the back. This strand is the head of the stitch. At the base, a strand connects one V to its neighbor. These are the running threads. If you turn that set of sts upside down they look like this /\/\/\/\/\ Now it looks like 4 sts with 1/2 st to the right and 1/2 st to the left. What looks like the heads of the sts in this orientation is the running threads when viewed from the other orientation. It's the "heads" of sts that sit on the needle and that you are knitting. In stockinette, you only notice the offset at the edge, because the Vs look the same if you look at them right side up or upside down. Ribbing is going to show the offset every time you change from knits to purls or purls to knits \/\/\/-\/\/\/- will look like /\/\/\-/\/\/\-. Ribbing can be *grafted* in pattern, but only if you are grafting the two ends (CO and BO) of a single strip of fabric together. The direction of the knitting will be the same for both edges ==>|==> unlike when you are grafting the BO ends of two separate pieces, which are both knit toward the graft ==>|

Oh, I'm sure lots of people use the slip knot as a stitch. I try to never have knots in my knitting, even slip knots, so I typically cast on so as to avoid them, and when I do have to use them, I find a way to eliminate them later. There are always multiple ways of getting to the same end point, so assuming you counted the slip knot as a stitch while you cast on, you did nothing "wrong." If you use a slip knot, and then cast on the number of sts you need *in addition* to the slip knot, and then *worked* the slip knot, you'd have worked too many sts, and then you would have a problem. Otherwise, if you end up with the right number of sts, and you're happy with the result, you're fine. You might want to try the method I showed, just to see if you like the result better. You get to decide which is the right way for you and your projects.

I imagine it could be used in any top-down mitten pattern that calls for a closed cast on. In most cases, the various methods of closed cast-ons are interchangeable. Not all top-down mitten patterns will call for a closed cast on. Some might call for a pinhole CO, instead.

I'm not sure I understand your question. Is your plan to use German short rows immediately after casting on? Like for a sock toe? Are you using a pattern that calls for a different closed cast on? Does it have you begin short row shaping on the very first row? If so, then for the Turkish CO, I would purl across the sts of one needle, turn, and then begin the short rows, assuming you are to start with a RS row.

There are a couple of things you could try. One is to use a smaller lower needle (1 or 2 sizes smaller), which will make the loops around the needles smaller, and provide less slack as you work across the second needle. I do something a bit different, which is that as I work across the first needle, I allow my working needle to pull out any accumulated slack (similar to how working across backwards loops can cause slack to accumulate between the sts). When I get across the first needle, that excess slack is trapped between the last st worked, and the slip knot. Let the slip knot come off the needle, and that slack vanishes. You can then work across the second needle. Those sts are smaller/tighter, because you've eliminated the excess slack.

Thanks I will try both those versions .

I tried the removing slack version using garter stitch flat method. It made sense as soon as I read it, and I saw the slack in front of the slip knot, so disappeared along with it. It meant I had no struggle getting stitches back on to needle when working other direction and when cast off, you could not tell back from front or where the cast on row was, and that was without any blocking. Very pleased. I like the PCC with lifeline you showed us, but am always scared that inserting the cable along the lifeline could break the delicate cobweb , Shetland Supreme yarn. I don't like the figure 8 using one needle, one cable cast on , so this way ,removing the extra slack , may be slower but well worth the advantage. Thanks !

I'm glad it worked for you!