Great video. I just restored my first No4 Mk1. It was buried in grease for the last 40 years and needed deep deep cleaning and the stocks redone. I was happy when the bore turned out shiny. I enjoyed watching this, Cheers from Down Under.

Good video with great results, I also have a Savage Lee Enfield No4 Mk1*, a friend of mine had it for years and his father bought it in 1963 as surplus, still in the grease and in a military canvas zip bag, the tag on the barrel had a price of $19.00. Also the upper handguard was not grooved, and the sights were flip type which I have replaced. Also this rifle has no proof marks so it was unfired, great find but cost me $800.00 Canadian.

Word of advice, put the.buttstock on first. Some stockbolts have a square end that when turning in will split the forestock. Mostly applicable to smle, but why take the chance

FINALLY.... A very well thought out restoration video on KZfaq. That was the fastest 50 minutes 24 seconds I've ever had... I guess I will be one of the weird ones and wish your videos was even longer.. I really enjoyed it. I am getting ready to do my first Lee Enfield number 4 Mark 1 Restoration.. just purchased a RTI grade a from Africa but I have not picked it up yet.. needless to say I'm a little nervous Hope that I get a halfway decent rifle...again your video is a awesome great inspiration I will most likely watch this video over and over and over .....thanks so much for posting.

Birchwood Casey Plum Brown works great as a bluing solution. Just boil after browning and you get a very nice deep black finish. I have done two rifles with this method. Easy to find solution option. Great video...thanks!

Nice job on the No4, they made plenty so no problem restoring some. I would be happy to own it.

Great job on the restoration! I have restored a few but used Glas bead blasting and carting wheel. You own the rifles so you can restore them as you see fit!

Good stuff . I've done 4 rust blue restore guns now . I really like the results I've got . I used Laurel Mountain Barrel brown solution . I still have a half bottle of solution after doing 4 guns .

Looks really good. I have always degreased with acetone or lacquer thinner after steel wool. The steel wool does have a slight amount of oil, I suppose it is to keep it from rusting in the packaging.

Still watching but a few minutes in and I can say your work is excellent.

Beautiful job restoring the rifle. I bought a Lee Enfield from Big 5 years ago when they got a bunch in stock. Must have driven to 3 or 4 different stores until I found one in decent shape with nice rifling in the barrel. I can tell the stain on mine is a lot darker than the one you have, think I like the lighter color better!

Excellent Resto . I love the peach colour, really makes the fresh bluing pop and looks just like the Number4 Mark 2 Irish Contract rifles from the Fazackerley Factory in '53 /'54 . Lovely job, enjoyed the video, one new subscriber .

Very thorough tutorial and the rifle is a beauty.

Great video. Really informative! Only issue that I had was the volume was pretty low. But I get that you're just using your phone. Keep up the good work.

your videos are really good thank you!

Got to ask, why don't you simply boil and card all the components instead of going straight to a wire wheel? A coarse wire wheel disfigures the original milled profile and gives the rifle a permanently "abnormal" look, which as a rule of thumb destroys its historical value. Absolutely nothing wrong with rust blueing, thats how many of the rifles were originally finished. I am very glad you follow Mark Nowak, i have used his methods to conserve and refurb many guns since his video came out. I must say, MidwayUSA has a very good video on how to clean wooden stocks/furniture. They recommend you use laquer thinner and a rag, and it has worked for many sets of wooden firearm furniture I own. I plan on followimg a similar method with some C -GradeNo1 Mk3 Enfields from RTI. Going to roll the dice and see what I get, I have been burned by RTI before... Just my two cents. Thanks for your work to preserve these firearms for future generations. It's an uphill battle for sure.

Great sound track as well!

Idk, if you went over checking the Barrel groves and muzzle ware? that could have been all for nothing. However, it was a good tutorial on rust bluing at home. It would be interesting to see how it shoots after all that work. Peace out dude. - Dave

Degrease the steel wool before you use it, there is oily stuff in the steel wool from the factory. Good job , I'd prefer to see a linseed oil finish personally but each to their own.

Has a Jungle carbine bolt. And.... an Ishapore (Indian arsenal) screw in the stock. The stocks were linseed oiled monthly and there were oilers in the butt to gun oil the rifle, sometimes the forends were greased in the channel for the barrel, mostly in SE Asia.

you did a fine job

Nice work. I recently restored a sporterized a Savage No4 Mk1* by installing all NOS wood and fixing parts. I had plans to cold blue the handguard bands, but this has given me other ideas. Some questions about your rifle: - Does it have a No5 Jungle Carbine bolt? I noticed the drilled out handle. - Are you planning to finish the forend dowel repair at the barrel reinforce? It would be interesting to see how that turns out. - Are you planning to shoot the rifle? If so, make sure to push back the upper handguard so that it doesn't touch the foresight protector, or it will negatively affect accuracy.

Currently conserving an RTI B grade M95. Not even a hand select and the bore is incredible. Was thoroughly shocked

I made a steam box out of a U-Haul moving box, a small space heater and a humidifier. I only needed to buy the humidifier. Everything else I found free (hooray for me). I also made boiling tanks out of rain gutters. Truly more than one way to skin a cat.

You do a great job beautiful on these rifles but if I was you I wouldn't restore everything anything that's close to just a little under faded blue patina I would save a few of those as they are but great work

Ever considered an air brush to apply your solution. I seem to be a bit heavy handed when using a cotton ball or swab cloth and create unnecessary streaks. Tried an airbrush on an old Enders double 12ga and it came out like a champ.

Your videos are really long, but useful!

Nice job, a sow''s ear into a silk purse

Just bought my first Enfield No4 Mk1, savage arms. Someone shortened the lower forestock to make it into a sporterized version that looks like shit. I’m going to return it to factory condition. Im piecing the new lower fore stock and upper hand guards. They will probably not match each other so I’m probably going to have to strip and refinish them. Thanks for the information. It will be immensely helpful.

How about the bore? I never saw you cleaning the borse of your restauration rifles.

Where do you get the chemicals for the rust blue solution? I am having a hard time finding zinc chloride. Also do you use wooden plugs or something in the barrel to protect the bore?

Rust bluing is the way to go, I'll never touch cold blue again. How is the bore in the Vz. 52? I considered one but kept seeing people say theirs was a sewer pipe.

Can you provide the detail on the wire wheel you are using?

thats a bit too coarse of a carding wheel you need something very soft, rust bluing should have a very fine polish to it...

I've done Park Rising a lot and I've used bead blasting have you tried that what do you think about method

The barrels are so worn on the Royal Tigers I feel the entire market is suspect.

I have a Savage made Enfield No4Mk2. Would you be interested in restoring mine? Let me know

At 27:00 I didn’t understand what were you putting onto the metal before you put on your homemade rusting solution?

i was waundering if any. one can help me i have a 303 rifle my grandfather left me on the rifle it says 303 lee enfield property of the united states millitary and the number says 5-5 made in 1938 i have searched for it every where and cant find any one who actually has the same gun and its not even anywhere on the internet

Am I the only one that has spotting issues when using the steaming tube. I bought the Rust Blue from Bob, who was on Mark Novak's channel, and built the steam tube using his plan, much like yours. I did an Ithaca shotgun barrel and it just kept spotting even though I waited until the steam was pouring out the top. I even used my heat gun to heat it up first. I eventually said F it and took it down to bare metal and cold blued it. Now I have the tube sitting around doing nothing. Anyone have any advice?

The gloss finish is not factory on any of these guns. Danish oil.

Why remove the old bluing when you can run it through the rust bluing process with the old bluing on and just apply rust blue chemicals to the areas already in the white?

You do realize that the amount of sanding you are doing to these milsurp stocks they never originally had that much attention. You are bringing them to a hole new glory they have never known. Not even fresh off the assembly line.

I would pay for this service on my grandpas old no4mk1