It has been my hardest project so far. I've spent a lot of time. I hope you can see it in the video. Have fun 🙂 And If you miss lubricantion or grease... I did it after filming. Because it ruins the beautifull Look of the jack.

This is a very difficult task, but you completed it with all dexterity and determination. A big salute to you, my dear brother

Good work, surprised you could save the thrust bearing.

Awww cute dog🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕🐩🐩🐩🐩🐩🐕🐩🐕🐩🐕🐩🐕🐩

You got that old car jack looking much better and also made a new wrench to turn the square bolt. Excellent work.

You must put a lot of grease in order to prevent rust and wear of the gears due to friction

Nicely done! I agree with putting grease inside to keep parts lubricated. Also that type of jack would of possibly had a 4 sided socket with a speed handle to put it up or down. I have similar jacks that were my dad's that had slots where a speed bar went in and then you would spin it to put it up or down! OVERALL a great restoration.

Your handle idea worked beautifully

A few helpful tips. Always remove the rust from threads and oil them BEFORE you try unscrewing a nut, or in this case, the threaded gear. This will reduce damage to both the internal and external threads. The two screws that look the same are not the correct screws. The other one is correct. The broken part is a retaining spring. A new one could be made from spring steel. For goodness sake please grease the gears, the threaded shaft, and repack that ball bearing with grease. You did a great job of making it look pretty, but I think it is better to also restore the functionality. A few other suggestions in tools to expand what you can achieve would include soft jaws for your vise, strap wrenches or chain wrenches, vise-grip style pliers, a larger set of channel lock type pliers, and a torch that burns MAP gas as this is hotter than propane. Oxy-Ace is even better but costs more! Last but not least, a manual impact screwdriver that is specifically designed for loosening rusted screws. One sharp blow with a hammer makes it turn counter clockwise. www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-1140D-Piece-Impact-Driver/dp/B000CODDYE/ref=sxin_17_ac_d_rm?ac_md=2-1-bWFudWFsIGltcGFjdCBkcml2ZXI%3D-ac_d_rm_rm_rm&content-id=amzn1.sym.b09913c7-88ee-4b06-b977-3fd4ebd29a25%3Aamzn1.sym.b09913c7-88ee-4b06-b977-3fd4ebd29a25&crid=2TWI8HJXRD5MR&cv_ct_cx=impact+driver&keywords=impact+driver&pd_rd_i=B000CODDYE&pd_rd_r=c95915c1-d2b9-45b4-8da0-c1ee08205b7d&pd_rd_w=ykVS1&pd_rd_wg=kVoAF&pf_rd_p=b09913c7-88ee-4b06-b977-3fd4ebd29a25&pf_rd_r=EE2S1AYQY2Y673B44PKJ&qid=1673080902&sprefix=Imp%2Caps%2C161&sr=1-2-7d9bfb42-6e38-4445-b604-42cab39e191b You did great work! I was impressed you were able to get it apart given the tools at your disposal.

Beautiful restoration here, real heavy rust too. This isn’t just a lesson on skills and tools, it’s a lesson on patience, as I work in engineering and we’re under pressure to get a job done quickly, which also rubs off when I’m at home in the workshop.

Would have liked you filing casting marks and filling imperfections. Beside that, I'm in my couch watching and you're doing the hard working ;-) Appreciated the details on finishing brand/numbers. Great job!

The jack was less damaged than expected. Probably more dirt than rust. Nice work.👍

A nice enjoyable restoration,and not powder coated.

That spot weld is there to keep the person using the jack from unscrewing it to far and risking the vehicle come done on them from the jack being unscrew all the way. If that makes sense.

Beatiful 👍

Brilliant restoration

it is every time unbelivible that you can clean somthing like this🤩 and it looks amazing at the end, good work👍

The weld is probably to keep the screw from coming out while jacking it up.

Very nice restoration but I see you did not put grease on the bearing

Great work. We Love Sam!

Excellent work

I think the broken spring is supposed to prevent rotation of threaded rod due to friction when turning the crank rod 🤔 Nice work 👍 Greetings from Germany

Nice restoration mate ! Keep going !

Great work!

Nice work!

Very nice job!

Fantástico! Show!

отпескоструить подшипник - это было смелое решение

A lot of hard work and effort for a beautiful restoration 👏👏 Liked & subscribed ❤️

Good work!

Bardzo ładnie wyszło 👍

Very nicely done. I thought you were screwed there for a minute.😁 I was going to ask about grease but I see you did that afterward. Much respect for your persistence.

The broken clip would keep the shaft centered to prevent binding, the round head screw would be original and the other two should be the same, good job though, looks great, take that drill bit out of the trash and learn how to sharpen it

Great and excellent work and a great effort, but it is necessary to put grease on the gears and screws. Good

Tré bien 👍👍contuni bonne anneé 2023 🌹📍🌹📍

Aweasome Work bro😍 well done.

finally a new video and it's sooo good 🤩

Nice work! On assembly, you should grease the parts before you assemble the pieces. After assembly use plenty of grease in the gearbox and the leadscrew. Cheers!

Nice work

Great work, buddy!!! Enjoyed watching it! Keep it up, I advise everyone to watch your channel! Good luck!!!

ทำไมคุณไม่ใส่จารบีหล่อลื่น

Very good work. It's nice to see someone not OVER restore an old piece of equipment. I see too many channels that would have filed, sanded, and mirror polished the top cup/saddle on this, then filed, sanded ,and fillered the body until it was completely smooth. When finished, all the cast iron would have looked like moulded plastic, and they'd be afraid to use if for fear of damaging the finish. What you've done is take an unusable tool, that most would have just weighed in for it's scrap metal value, and brought it back to a presentable, and USABLE condition, and to me, that's significantly better than a tool being "Better than new, but too nice to use". Being an overly critical old British engineering type, I do have two criticisms though (But take that as a compliment, as it's only two, and one of them is more of a "How I would have done it differently" type of comment than a full blown criticism....... Watching some "Restorers" channels often almost has me screaming at my screen about the idiotic "Cosmetics over function" work they're doing, but your work didn't raise my blood pressure a fraction of the amount a lot of the others have..... In fact, it was more like just "A raised eyebrow". 😏) First, sand blasting that ball race made me wince a bit. Not only will it have put specks of abrasive into the surface of the balls, but it will have changed their roundness. So at the jacks limit, rather than that 1.5t being supported by 14 or so ball bearings, it might only be getting supported by the high spots of 3. At best it should have been replaced, but failing that, I'd have soaked it in penetrating oil to remove the old congealed grease, then brake cleaner to remove anything left on it. If there was actual rust on it I'd have brass wire wheeled it, then maybe finishing it off with a bath of rust remover for a couple of hours, blown it dry, and repack with grease. This would have been kinder to the ball bearings precision surface (Well, what was CLASSED as a precision surface back then), wouldn't have been as likely to dimensionally changed them, and wouldn't have risked embedding abrasive material into the surface. The "I would have done it differently" bit concerns the handle you made. I'd have probably cut one out of a scrap of any 12+mm plate steel I could find around the workshop. The corners of the square drive hole are huge stress risers in something like this, so I'd want to keep as much material as viable around it to prevent it from splitting. As the square drive looked to be 1/2", I may also have made it out of some thinner steel, then welded in the square drive half of an old socket from one of my many incomplete 1/2" socket sets. To me that feels like it would produce an end result that might have looked more like it could have been the original handle...... Oh, and I would have angled the flats in the section of socket to 22.5ish degrees out of alignment with the handle. A fair few very old machine vice manufacturers used to do this on their smaller vice handles. It meant that if there wasn't enough room around the handle to get a full 90' swing, you could keep flipping the handle around to get 45' turns. It was a simple, but often overlooked added convenience that cost nothing extra to implement. As I said, I tend to be a bit overly critical of restorer channels, but this video has easily been in the top 10% of the ones I've seen so far. So I look forward to seeing more of your work in the future. Oh, and that little broken clip you found inside the jacks body. It's job was to add some friction between the jack screw and the body to stop the screw from just spinning with the crown gear. Without it, until the saddle made contact with the underside of the car, you could turn the drive pinion, and all that would happen is the saddle would go round and round like a carousel rather than going up. The blob of weld in the threads is the height stop that would have been put there at the factory. All in all, they were a beautifully simple design. Apart from rust, there was very little that could cause problems on this style of jack, and the 1500kg limit on yours is more likely to be a maximum weight they thought could be on it and still expect the average user to be able to turn the handle, rather than the most the jack could physically support. If the bearing, and screw/crown gears threads were all in good condition, I'd expect this one to easily take a 4t vertical load....... You just wouldn't be able to turn the handle to raise it with that load pressing on it, and there would be an added slight risk of the mechanism getting back driven.

И без смазки! Оригинально!

Grasa o aceite para mantener lubricado un poquito y que no se pxcide ??? Very Good work !!!

Well worth the effort. It looked beyond saving. You made an excellent restoration. Consider getting a large empty container, a bench power supply and some cables to try electrolysis. It will save a lot of trouble when it comes to removing rust. It leaves less rust in the blasting media. Liked and subscribed!

Could have put a little grease on the gears and places that have metal to metal contact. 🤔

The weld you came across on the screw is the limit stop.

You do great work. I subbed you.

I keep screaming at the screen to but a torch on those gears in my head when I see the pliers coming out...

Nice work, good attention to detail. I subbed you.

As others may have said. I think the broken spring clip keeps the threaded part in the center of the housing for when you're not lifting exactly straight up and down??

Пане Радек, Алілуя, я би співав тоді коли все вже було розібрано.)) Дякую за завжди цікавий контент. Шанування!

Nice work! 1500 kg is not bad for such a small and manuel jack.

In England we say " it's f****d , great video thanks for posting

Superbe restauration ! Très bon boulot ! Pour votre question concernant la bague cassé, vous avez pour ma part trouver le bon emplacement ! Et je pense que cela sert à 2 choses, la première évitez que la vis d'axe principale n'est du débattement et la gardant bien fixe , la deuxième éviter comme à 31min45 que l'axe ne tourne en même temps que vous manipuler le cric ! Qu'il reste dans la même position que vous leviers ou baisser ! Petite idée, si vous avez l'outillage, vous couper votre tube à 45° et souder les deux morceaux vous vous faisiez une manivelle ! Qui serais je pense beaucoup plus pratique ! Continué comme cela j'aime beaucoup ce que vous faites.

The clip if so when the gear is turning without weight on it it goes up. The spot weld is so the screw doesn’t come out of the jack and over extend.

Where is all the grease that should be on the inner moving parts? The gear, shaft and bearing all need to be greased, other than that you did a great job.

Этот фиксатор нужен для предотвращения смещения штока в канале.

Wszystko chińskie się łamie Świetny jest ten cały zabytkowy lewarek teraz wziąść zablokować tą rączkę i dośrodka nałożyć świeżego czystego smaru i i można go już używać pozdrawiam twórcę tego filmiku serdecznie 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Nice job, but I wonder if the 2 countersunk bolts were the correct ones. The flat bottomed domed screw just seemed to be a better fit for a non countersunk top cover plate. Just my humble armchair opinion.

Heat man heat

Обнять и плакать...

👍

Das es er gut !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jé, hever Vilímek. Namazal si ozubená kola a tyč grafitem nebo strojní vazelínou?. Dobrá práce..

Good work, would have even better had you a) filled down the casting marks, b) filled any imperfections, c) used assembly grease, d) packed the bearings and bevel gears with grease, e) replaced the two flat head screws with domed heads. Good idea for the handle.

Nach Fest kommt ab 🤣

It is pretty. It seems to work. Will it lift any weight?

You did a great job but what happened to greasing everything thing as you reassembled😳

Just a question: Why didn't you use rust remover at the very beginning? Ok maybe I should just shut up and watch, huh? Lmao

nice appearance, unfortunately there is no fat inside

Hey man you never lubricated the internals this is a serious mistake !

Finally the content I was waiting for is finally here, and it's exactly like the doctor ordered.

I wish you would have demonstrated it.

2 of the 3 screws on the top are incorrect, the countersunk screws must have been used to replace the originals at some point as the housing isnt countersunk to accept them. they should be flat bottom screws like the odd one out.

No grease on the thrust bearing or bevel gears?

Lovely job but....lubrication during assembly?

Nice work friend! I have a question please... why there is not any kind of greese in the inside? Thank you!

muito bom esse vídeo dessa restauração de macaco veicular antigo , porém a alavanca de acionamento do macaco poderia ser feita de tubo de aço inox em forma de L assim seria mais fácil o acionamento sem tanto esforço do proprietário além de lubrificar o conjunto das engrenagens e o colar de esferas de aço 👍

You didn't greese the guts, especially the bearing assembly. Tear it down and do it again.

Só acho que poderia ter colocado um pouco de graxa na engrenagem.

I'm no expert, but I would've started with electrolysis to start getting the rust off, and the internal parts loosened up

Why didn't you grease the gears ball-bearing?

Antigo

Beautiful restoration, but....I can't believe you put it back together without greasing the ball bearings and the gears! If you did, I didn't see it in the video. Please tell me you realized the mistake and took it back apart and greased what needed grease!

¿Esta herramienta para que sirve?

Vous avez oublier la graisse dans les roulement à bille et les engrenages, et lorsque l 'on perce il faut librifier pour caque votre forêt et fichue

Note to self, include the video of greasing the Jack next time to prevent repetitive comments 😅 Well done! See looks beautiful 😊

you're need an impact driver

No grease?

Wirklich WW II ??? Gab es da schon DIN ( Deutsche Industrie Norm ) ???

Fine work, but why so much work for this project?

Why has no grease been used?

US A IMPACK SCREW DRIVER, AND WHY DIDN'T YOU SAND BLAST IT BEFORE YOU STARTED.

all that know how to restore that jack but none to sharpen a 25.00 drill bit

Grease fault

А разве винтовая часть и подшипник с шестернями не нуждаются в смазке? А так нормально. Понравилось.

La chaveta de abajo no se vio cuándo la pusiste ,aparte eso va engrasado

I'm not sure I would call this a restoration as it's more like a repair.

No grease? It will soon begin to corrode again. The crank handle you made is too long. Apart from that another good restoration.