Thanks so much for watching! We will absolutely have more videos coming soon

@@edmontonrv You're welcome, and that is great to hear!

Thank you! Stay tuned for more!

Both putty (mastic) and butyl will work, but we’ve found that the butyl gets a million times stickier after the window has been installed for a while, to the point that the glass can break trying to get the window out. The Alpha Putty is our go to now!

Thanks for watching! We recommend the putty for that application as it is quite a bit less sticky than the butyl tape and butyl tubes. If you ever need to remove/reseal the window, there’s a good chance that the glass will break trying to pry it out if you use butyl. We still recommend sealing the outside with a bead of Sikaflex/Proflex after using putty or butyl!

For those that may not know Self leveling is only good for roof, you definitely do not want self leveling on a side like a window or door

We use putty tape for this application!

Thanks for watching! That is an issue we face even in Canada, most of the sealants do a good job but the sun does a real number on them and they wear out fairly quickly. We’re going to be doing some long term tests of a number of different sealants to see how they perform over time, stay tuned for an answer to this question!

We haven't ever used flexseal for that purpose so I'm not able to give much guidance on that unfortunately. We typically lean on the Dicor roof coat products as they are specifically designed to bond well to the rubber material!

You can absolutely use butyl on older models! We find putty lasts quite a bit longer, but butyl is absolutely compatible and will still give a good seal.

Thanks for watching! In our shop we would use Sikaflex 221 for that job, but Proflex and Dicor Cap Sealant are also good choices! Edit: I forgot to mention that underneath the flange where the window is sealed to the wall, you will want to use a putty tape.

@@edmontonrv My horse trailer is painted aluminum.

That is where the Sika products work best!

@@edmontonrv Does the Rv places sell the Sikaflex 221??

Most of them do carry the 221! In our store we have 3 different stocking colours and can order in the rest of the colours.

You might be able to ask an RV dealer or parts store near you to order you a case!

The Eternabond is getting pretty pricey, but it is a great product and definitely less expensive than a roof leak! That said, we’re demoing some AP Products seal tape that claims the same compatibility but for 20-30% less cost, stay tuned for a video on that!

I understand that the Eternabond in expensive, but I was watching a review where an R.V. owner sealed every seam on his roof, showed us how & gave us 1 year, 2 year & 3 year updates. It's still holding up fantabulously! And personally, I agree with Josh, it is definitely less expansive than a roof leak!

We had the eternabond on for 5 years. Held up great. Was hard to remove!!

@@hillarysettle5119 Very difficult to remove! I suppose it's a good problem haha.

Butyl tape will seal just as good as putty, but it’s 5000% stickier which makes it miserable to remove the window down the road if need be!

@@edmontonrv Aaaah, thank you. I was just putting a roll of butyl tape in to my cart, but they're sold out. I have a 1984 aluminum roof & siding class c & just reading that the putty tape is easier to remove has led me to purchase a roll of the putty tape instead of the butyl to keep on hand in my 'repair' stash. Thanks for the informative answer Josh.

​@@edmontonrvwouldn't butyl last longer and seal better than putty?

There isn’t much of a difference between the two in terms of the quality of the seal. The big problem with butyl and windows is that it tends to get stickier the longer it stays on, so if you ever need to remove the window there’s a good chance the glass will shatter!

@@edmontonrv Oh NO! Don't tell me that! I think my butyl has been on my R.V. for 39 years! (& the entire R.V. is in immaculate shape! It has been extremely well maintained) I was going to scrape away as much as I could of the old & possibly remove 2 or 3 windows just to check on any leakage (I have my suspicions) & reseal with Pro-Flex (I already have that purchased). My concern is with one of the side windows on the upper sleep cab, the kitchen (which is the biggest) & possibly the long front one on the upper sleep cab. Maybe I won't remove windows & check for any water damage/leakage until I plan to re-paint the entire interior & build myself a crafting work-bench/desk out of the back bed. Question though: I am planning to coat every single window with 8 mil security film. Do 'you' think that might help strengthen the window glass when trying to remove those 3 windows?