Gas popping the fan blade might be from some kind of thermal contraction/expansion. If the blades were warm and the gas was spilled on them, the evaporating gasoline would have caused those blades to cool down rapidly. This may have caused enough stress internally to the plastic fan blades to cause them to break/pop off.

The fan blades might have been thermal shock or just crappy injection molding with a lot of internal stress. That's an interesting issue however.

'We replaced the crappy gasket with an identical crappy gasket......." 🤣🤣

I look forward to Sundays to watch your whimsically serious videos. It's fun watching someone fool around seriously and enjoying themselves and I sponge off your fun. looking forward to next week and I'm still on the record for 84 MPH with the v-twin BIG BLOCK!

12:35 The 2Cv had a very long life. It started in the 1950's and the last were produced in 1990. The engine has been upgraded several times and in the 1970's the "biggest" one was a 602cm3 and could do 110 to 120km/h (depending of the wind...)

3 minutes in and a new video, that 6 day wait by the computer was worth it.

SO, there is a really interesting thing that happens when you get ethanol on acrylic. It hydro cracks. If you have seen all of the spit barriers in the stores cracked its because someone cleaned them with the ethanol containing sanitizer. I don't know if this is what happened with the fan blades, but it a possibility. As for the test, ethanol evaporates pretty quickly so if the test sample had been out of the canister for a while maybe the ethanol was evaporated off enough.

the plastic blades, when they moulded them at the factory have a high stress area in the corner. this is caused by the plastic cooling fast on the outside and slow in the middle. the middle shrinks causing the high stress area. if you get some clear plastic cutlery or look at a set of plastic headlights with a pair of polarized lenses sunglasses, you can see the stress areas in the plastic. acrylic plastics are very susceptible to solvents, where if there is a high enough stress moulded into the plastic the plastic will break down a little from the solvent and the internal stress causes the plastic to crack and split. very similar to safety glass or "tempered" glass

That silicone head gasket, I blew one out almost immediately. I'd say the stock style with some RTV or copper coat will be your best bet. Along with head studs. Those stock chinesium bolts are soft.

I'd like to see this with classical clutch and just the 5 speed, might be faster due to higher efficiency.

Have you ever had fresh ground cinnamon? Whole new ballgame. Thanks for your videos by the way. They always improve my mood.

I’ll go with thermal shock for the broken fan blades. As a datum, my Porsche will do 0-60 in 4.8 seconds and my MG wont do it at all without a very steep hill. Love your work Jimbo 👍

Good morning everyone hope everyone is having a blessed Sunday

After fully sheet metaling the bottom of my old race car I noticed better gas mileage, smoother at high speeds and less wind noise.

Those damn Gardengnomes messing with the gaskets!

I cant explain the fan blades cracking, but I can recommend getting some industrial fans to replaces them. Noctua makes some very robust fans, fiber reinforced blades, water/oil/dust resistant, etc. Not cheap, but maybe worth considering if you are still going to use that little pc cooling radiator.

New project car is a Fiero 🤣 Thanks for adding some SI Units for us non-Americans

We use to drill out the steel weights inside the sliders to get the desired weight reduction. I would recommend you do the same. For as far as the fan blades, some injection molded parts, especially thin and long parts like fan blades, can have high internal stresses due to cooling too quickly and shrinkage. If it's a stiff polymer and it's hot (probably was) then dumping gas on it which extracts heat very quickly to evaporate, you could cause the part to fail. It's just my best guess.

Thanks JIMBO I can’t wait to see the new rig!!! I’ll see ya next week!

"Too far down the rabbit hole for this project" - are you nuts ? This project defines crazy rabbit holes !

i’m upset i found this series last episode, but so damn happy i found it in general

The car performing better in the heat probably comes down to drivetrain losses; Grease in CVs and wheelbearings is thick, gear lube in the manual trans ( diff) is thin, but thinner when warm all reducing parasitic losses. Warmer temps also generally means suspension components settle better because all of the bushing, rod ends etc move more freely, having everything settled and neutral is very important for low rolling resistance. Speaking of low rolling resistance, heat will increase tyre pressure reducing rolling resistance, so thats a plus.

HEY JIMBO..... congratulations on reaching 100k subscribers.. ROBOT CANTINA is providing the entertainment and fun that viewers enjoy..

Also If you could use an spark plug with resistance they have an R letter after numbers on the NGK's, that helps with interference on the EFI management

Take the gearbox out of the occasion; a fixed custom made single gearset replicating your current 4th gear ratio will reduce driveline losses and most likely improve 1 to 2 seconds on your 0-60 (my 2 cents). Keep us posted on your ventures; loving the series!

You can add washer to stiffen spring witch will raise engagement rpm

could be the fact that it did react a little with the plastic and where the blade meets the hub is just a high stress point

Love your content bro. Keep up the outstanding work

I'm not an expert, but the fan blades cry instant thermal shock (probably would do the same with water). Great that the clutch problem is fixed (sort of) and the CKP gremlin is gone. For every new episode, there's some new unforeseen hurdle(s) - that's what keeps it exciting! Keep pushing forward :-)

Fan blades may have been already damaged and glued back together? Don't know if gasoline melts CA glue but acetone sure does.

Don't know if the fans were turning or not, but if they were, impacting the gas flexed the blade enough to hit the fan frame.

Literally watching you talk about your gas can woes when I see a notification for project farm, and that man has an uncanny knack for being relevant cause wouldn't you know, he's doing gas cans today!

This build is badass. Channel host is funny too.

Time to go 88mph and get back to 1985! Lol

The tranny oil to intake trick was a fun thing I did in the 70's to back off tailgaters on the highway. I used an ANCO wiper fluid motor drawing the tranny oil from container, using a push button placed inside of my '77 Dodge 360ci truck at the time, I could smoke out a dangerous tailgater when traveling on interstate, and they always fell back, or quickly passed me at first chance. Since the truck came without catalytic convertor in those years, damage to such wasn't a problem.

Thank you very much. I hope the project is fun for you too!

No Capt crunch, I had some "Love Crunch" this morning, which is kinda the sidekick of Capt'n Crunch, and she's telling me, that most likely the blades have been hit by a small pebble, or a bug during operation. The 2CV started out with a 9hp 375cc parallel twin engine, but ended up on their last models with a 29HP 600cc engine. That engine was able to do 65mph.

I think you should replace the Supercharger cooler fans with an electric radiator fan;or replace the two polyurethane plastic fans,with fans made of aluminum.

You put so much love into your Videos. Thanks!

Thanks for another great video

The fan blade may have already been stressed in some way or maybe even partially fractured and the corrosive addition of the gasoline may have been enough to finish it off. Also I'm a 19 year old from Michigan and am modifying a chevy trailblazer with a stock 4200 vortec with parts from a gmc envoy. My plan is to find out just how much power you can safely get out of an inline 6 with a stock transmission. Also the gmc will likely be used in a demolition derby in the near future. Let me know if you want to meet up and work on a project.

You can get old fashioned gas can spouts online, if you're tired of the California approved one that seems determined to spill gas every time you use it and leave its o-ring in your gas tank.

I remember a long time ago we talked about the injector :) I was packing some garage stuff to move recently and found perfect injectors for this, thought about your car immediately when I saw them! Problem is that I live in Sweden and you probably got injetors by now :)

1:44 - slipping due to light pucks is not the root cause, but an effect of increasing horse power at given rpm. The spring is the one that drives the tension, the pucks adjust the rpm the CVT shifts at in combination with the spring. But for tuning, you normally increase the spring first to get higher torque transfer without slipping (which also increase the rpm), then adjust the pucks to make it shift at the optimal rpm (peak hp) 🤓

I'd assume the heat cycles underneath the hood are very hard on the fan plastic because it's meant to be in a computer case that would generally not exceed like 65-75C max. I hope the water pumps don't have the same plastic for their internals!

Nice one... great trick with the atf, hadn´t seen that one before. Cheers!

I'm looking forward to episode 13!!

Always entertaining, thanks

Want be long now and the video will start off with a rolling top fuel stile burn out 💪 thanks for the video

Super excited to see what the new project car is :)

durability , right out the window . really fun show

I LOVE this channel. It’s one of the highlights of my week. Very excited to see this baby hit the highway. I also hope AAA is on standby 😉

Love this video! Especially mentioning my 2 favorite cars, the Fiat 500 and 2CV. In reference to the Citroen 2CV: the final model of the 2CV could go "115 km/h (71 mph) in 1981" with its flat twin 602cc motor. Actually, the whole little car was amazing and technologically ahead of its time. If you get the chance, read the Wikipedia article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citroën_2CV

love the scatches at the end of the videos ^^

Your videos are awesome. Always have me cracking up over here. I love the bit about the cereal. Perfect amount of comedy injection for your unique style of video. It's been a blast to watch this channel mature into one of my favorites. We love you guys! Y'all do amazing work!

If the HG pops again, try to find a multi layer steel gasket. Those can hold up to some serious boost. Or just make your own HG out of annealed copper sheet. Good call on that exhaust leak. Every time an exhaust pulse passes the leak it creates a low pressure gaspocket behind it which in turn allowes ambient air to be drawn through the leak into the exhaust which in turn will be pushed past the O2 sensor scewing the reading. The sensor will detect more O2 and the ECU will start dumping more fuel in, more then is really needed.

Hey man, huge fan here: Was just thinking and I'm sure it's been mentioned but in future videos if you upgrade to the 670cc 22hp HF engine it might be more interesting as well as useful to some people as that might be a legitimate engine swap for certain vehicles, albeit quite underpowered but definitely an option with new engines costing a literal fortune, mechanics shops booked for months ahead of time, and gas being over $5 a gallon-I could see some enterprising poorer folks dropping in a 670cc and just rocking it. Anyway, it just popped into my mind, have a great day and I appreciate all your videos.

The Suzuki Maruti 800 had a 3 cylinder, 800cc engine making ~35hp, and it could hit ~140km/h with 0-100 in just under 21 seconds. Now, the car only weighted like 680kg, but I feel like little cement mixer engine has to be churning out at least 25-30 horsepower with the performance you're getting from the ~870kg Honda Insight. That's crazy, at 25hp you've right about doubled the original power output.

Stoked for episode 13 season 2!

Fan blades may have already been damaged and had small cracks. When the fuel hit the shock just finished an already started failure. Could be that the fuel caused the area in an already damaged crack swell ever so slightly that it just caused it to pop.

Fan blade snapping is from solvent absorption. The test you did to check for susceptibility wasn't actually telling you much, because plastic+solvent behavior can be really confusing and weird. Even if it doesn't melt entirely, it can easily soak up the gasoline and change the material properties of the plastic.

As always good stuff 👍.

Great series. 👍

well.. the fan blade. you just stuck your fingers into it while it was on and didn't want to admit it and told your pals it just broke on it's own while holding your bleeding hand in your pocket.

If only they made a 3 speed ....amazing work yall , I love this project and how you show some basics on clutch tuning. This is usually "Greek" to me so I'm glad to see it in video form cause with the visual, it's easier to understand.

Great episode, well balanced. Thanks again.

I really hope you get the gold KZfaq plaque you deserve it or a day time Emmy

Thanks for making my 87' sprint plus 3 cylinder 1.0l seem fast!

I ran into the same problems with engines won't stop leaking oil and gaskets keep failing I learned to use Liquid copper it helps on selling an engine up you can actually glue a motor back together with that stuff

Goat powered sport strikes again!

Love the videos

The sound it makes when u let off and shift then give her the beams after sounds so good

I had a sausage roll for breakfast so im going to say the gnomes snapped the blades off.

Those super Seal head gaskets are amesome

That car is faster than the speed of smell!

The flex joint spurting exhaust out probably means its unwound on the inside and creating a serious amount of backpressure. Just something iv seen time and time again. These videos seriously make me want to supercharge my four wheeler, though it has no pulley or belts to run it off of.

Have u tried a hotter or colder spark plug? I'm just suggesting different small things to see if there's any difference as always love the vids my man keep on keeping on🤘

A blessed sunday indeed.

As a non united states habitant, and may i speak for the rest of the world, THANKS for the metric conversions on the edit, yall northamericans have me converting everything in another tab or on the phone to make some sense to view! Regarding cvt slipping and temperatures: i have seen paints at racetracks in pits that dissapear or change color within X temperature is reached, this is applied to disc brakes to monitor cooling, top temp, and whatnot. Im not sure how this paint is called but you paint stripes direct in the edge of the disk or in this case clutch! Also you mentioning removing the gearbox, what about a direct coupling to the honda gearbox, but with a centrifugal clutch, and a one way bearing or sprocket like the ones on the rear of bycicles. The combination of these two may make the gearbox more usable without the need of an axial clutch, just let go the gas, wait for rpm to drop a bit and next gear shoud enter..¿easier? and not waste any precious kg/m on slipping and heating a belt!

That easter egg has got to be a Saturn. I bet you scooped up an old 2000's Saturn SC. I had one, and it was made of tupperware and ran on love. Best $500 I ever spent.

Not surprised to see the headbolts lost their spec after a run.. We build several engines with ARP 625s that require a hot torque for this reason. My suggestion would be to source a MLS gasket (I found a few online) as well as studs if possible. Unfortunately, clamping force and gasket material are gonna be the life and death of that engine under boost. Luckily, looks like IATs are under control, so as long as you can figure out a way to keep the top-end and clutch happy, its time to add boost and fuel. Also, really good call on the noise interference seen in the datalog- you're a lucky dog it actually showed up there though lol! With a lot of the in-depth electrical diag I've done on vehicles for noise interference, it will set DTCs but the scanner data stream won't show anything out of place due to the refresh rate of the scanner data vs what the PCM is actually able to see. Normally have to use a scope to find those failures.. As for the fan- nothing surprises me anymore when it comes to plastic.. Obviously certain plastics are very strong, and very reliable.. however I see failures almost daily with cheap CAIs, E-fans, etc that just aren't designed to handle the heat in a closed engine bay.

Oh yes those robots chatting like in a cantina,... I was heavily waiting for that. More robots, less gnomes!!!

Wheel bearings and drivetrain while cold are much harder to turn, warmer weather like 90°F+ you'll find MUCH lower rolling resistance. As we know the less resistance in the powertrain equals more power transferred to the wheels. This may sound counter intuitive however if you do a top speed run 1st, then the 0-60 you might shave a second off due to less drivetrain resistance when at operating temp. The transmission oil weight might also be something to look into as well as open bearings in the wheel hubs instead of sealed (much better rotation at the massive cost of longevity). Great video series!! Thank you :)

I'm the guy who recommended the PC water cooler, snap 1 fin on the opposite corner so it's (mostly) balanced with 4 top and 4 bottom fins, I've serviced quite a few computers where that was done "temporarily" to stop vibration

For your clutch issues if you would use roller weights instead of your pokes Rolla weights will sling in and out a lot faster and more reliable

re: fan blades breaking on exposure to gasoline, my guess is either (1) the blades were glued together w/ gas soluble glue for w/ever reason, or (2) a tiny crack had developed in the plastic & filled itself in w/ brake dust/pollen/oil/grime/etc., & that material absorbs gas & swells, breaking the plastic on contact

Some plastics become brittle and fail when exposed to solvents, oils or other chemicals, I remember as a kid thinking it'd be a great idea to lubricate my Lego Technic 8440 roadster with oil to smooth out the connecting parts on the "engine", axles, steering, etc., and very shortly after, the plastic all broke apart and disintegrated, basically cracking up like tempered glass, very weird, and very upsetting that I'd destroyed my best ever Lego build... :P

See if the manufacturer of that gas can makes water cans of the same mold, then if they do, ask them about buying a replacement spout and vent cap for a _water_ can. DO NOT mention gasoline at all! I've heard you can do this with Blitz.

Replace fan and move on with life. I loved the gnomes are sabotaging the car haha and any restriction that can be removed in the exhaust can affect the blower. I’d expect improvements even if small with the 02’s reading properly

Thanks Jimbo!

This series just gets better and better. And every new problem just adds to the interest. If I didn't know better, I'd assume you were conspiring with the garage gnomes to engineer entertaining failures...

From working with fans in a professional environment one of the primary failure mechanisms of fans is the molding process leaving the plastic highly locally stressed. The glass fill may also be poorly controlled or too much regrind included for cost saving purposes. Nearly all cheap fans have blades that are poorly molded and can snap off at the most inopportune times, kind of like how an old rotten tree might fall down on a windless day when a storm passed through only a week before. I wouldn't think too much into this as it's a common failure in inexpensive or poorly sourced fans. You probably just thermally shocked it or something of that nature. There's a reason high quality fans cost so much more than the low cost ones. Any quality manufacturer tests the crap out of any fan they source and finds those flaws before it ever makes it to the customer. You don't have that luxury!

I knew it, the gnomes are loosening bolts on purpose. Since the next episode is #13 perhaps it's time to wage war on the Gnomes

I've had many vehicles which were "gutless wonders", but this takes the cake. Not a bad car for a flatlander.

ill give u this. your videos aren't boring. I'm prolly your age and i love to tinker as well. keep up the good content sir.

The fan blades popping off might be due to being damaged before you bought it and the gas dissolving the glue they used to stick them back on. I've fixed many a pc fan with stuperglue. Once a blade has been broken, it's not hard for it to come off again at the most random disturbance.

I'm really taking interest in what you're doing to this little Honda because I am in the process of buying a 1991 Honda Accord and the motor and everything is set up just like yours and gas is it's getting expensive

Every Sunday I look forward to your videos Jimbo. As always primo content my man. As for the fan blade. I wonder if it was under tension while apart of the blade and the fuel evaporating could have cooled it too fast and made it release it tension. As for why the broken piece didn’t crack anymore my guess is the tension was already released.

I see the cereal crowd agree about thermal shock is likely. What I don't understand now is the gnomes seem to have their own film crew and they attach their content to the end of yours somehow. 🤔

Makes sense that the inner part of the blade would have been the hottest and most susceptible to rapid temperature change. Gasoline boils/evaporates/etc at a lower temperature than water does too, which means something that wouldn't 'instantly' boil water might still do it to gas which would subject it to the greater heat loss of its 'latent heat of vaporization' vs if you dropped water on it. Just a thought. Continuing video now...