Good deal! That is the goal with this series. For getting those carbs back on make sure you check out this link for softening up the boots v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477. In fact, the V4 site is a great for learning basically all there is to know about these V4's. I got my wintergreen oil from here www.ebay.com/itm/Humco-Wintergreen-Oil-Methyl-Salicylate-2oz-External-Pain-Reliever-glass-/252530453796?hash=item3acbfced24. Pain in the ass to source in the US for some reason. I've heard you can also find it labeled for horses and might be able to get it at a tractor supply or Ag store.

Thanks! The V4 from Honda will always hold a special place for me. I just wish they had kept with the power cruiser as the years rolled by.

I just got an ‘86 Magna V65. Has been riding fine but today on the freeway I felt it chug and then quit on me. I made it to work but on the ride back it quit about 20 times but I was able to barely get it running and make it home. Now that I’m home I notice there’s a leak from the petcock even in the off position I see gas dripping slowly. Any tips on where to start with my problem? Now it seems to barely want to start.. thinking about draining the gas, checking the fuel lines then carbs?

F. I feel your pain, my fairing is cracked from a previous owner. rippp

I need to get some better lighting.

Mine lived outside near the NC coast for almost a decade. The entire exhaust system was a bit on the rough side. But it's since moved along to someone else into the interior of the state.

The benefit of having new carb boots. It pops out super easy when you have new boots. Old ones? It's like trying to pull Excalibur out of the stone. Not fun at all.

What kind of problems we're you having?

It's done.

Matthew Williams yay!!

Only if you cannot get them out by your own hands. If it's got old boots, they are very hard to get out. You can put a pry bar between head and the body of the carb. But you want to pry on the bottom side of the plenum as it has the largest amount of cast area. The top is very thin walled. Ideally you'd pry between the head and the piece that leads into the boot just to get things moving. There's just not much space to move anything around in that valley.

I'm starting to think I should use it as cologne at this point. I pretty much bath in it ever time I work on something with this bike.

Sex Panther, 60% of the Time, It Works Every Time

Noted for future reference.

If the boots are old, heating them up ahead of time can help. Restoring them using oil of wintergreen and rubbing alcohol can help. Using a little bit of Sil glyde helped. But the biggest help was replacing the worn out boots from partzilla, or RonAyers was the best fix. And just a smidge of silicone on them to help keep them from getting stuck on the metal bits when trying to get the rack into place.

If memory serves, the only way I ever got it back in was to ensure the isolator boots were off the carb and the radiator hanging by just the one bolt. And even then it was a lot of moving it a bit, rearranging, moving a bit more. And then cutting yourself on the frame/carb/whatever piece of metal happened to feel particularly hungry that day. It was never a fun process.

@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV I did eventually get it back in. But I had to remove the radiator like you said. The most difficult part for me was hooking the throttle cables back up.

@@flatbill2 I tried to repair a snapped throttle cable on the side of I40 on the way to the mountains of TN once. It was not successful. In the end I had two different throttle cables snap on me, but it's not fun or easy to get into for sure.

Spent +2 hours trying to get the carbs out of my v45, definitely think ill have to remove the radiator to fit it out

Yeah... you know why it seemed quick? This is likely the 20th time I've had these carbs off this bike. I know how to finesse them now ;).

fugginA

On the plus side maybe I could start a business restoring old V4's?

you're the only one that would ever say that... lol. call it four on the floor XD

It's not for nothing that the moniker is pronounced "off balance" ;)

The one in center rear of the carbs

@@ryangraham1751 It's the exhaust blowby. It goes from that nipple on the carb into body of the head. It's more an EPA thing and could bypass to open air if you really wanted. You'd just need to make sure the nipple on the head was sealed up.

Pull the helmet lock the key code is stamped on it.

That's the top portion of the plenum. The air box screws into it, and in theory, should be mostly sealed to prevent un-metered air from entering the intake. The top portion is plastic and the bottom is aluminum.

If you have the back wheel off it's much easier to get to. Right above the swing arm at the bottom of the aux tank is a 10 or 8 mm bolt. You can drain that secondary tank from there. It's a pain to get at and required my longest extension stacked on other extensions while laying on the floor looking upwards at the bottom of the bike.

Oh,Jesus. Sounds like fun. I took the front tank off, but I guess I'll drain the secondary. But if I take the supply hose off the carbs, will the tank drain from there? What happens if I don't drain secondary? Just wondering. Though I would really like to see the condition of the fuel, so I will probably drain it anyway. Thanks a lot for responding. It helps a lot. Love Clymer manuals, but they fall short. Owe you one, buddy.

You'll get a little bit draining out when you pull the carbs, but gravity is your friend here. The hose loops up over above the head and then connects up to the fuel pump. Which then connects to the fuel filter. Which finally connects up to the petcock in the aux tank. At worst it'll only drain what's between the pump and carb in that case. You could just pull the line off the petcock and drain out 95% of the fuel that way, however, if the goal is to clean things up you really need to pull the aux tank out and drain it properly. I cleaned both tanks several times while the aux was on the bike... but the amount of rust that hides in that thing is unreal. I didn't stop getting rust flakes in the carb until I really spent the time to clean both tanks properly, and even then had to seal the main tank as it would still rust up when you used up the fuel and it sat for a few days.

Ok. Got me convinced. Will drain and clean both tanks. I suspected that would be the case, but I was anxious to get riding again. Yours is the better part of wisdom. I want to do it right. Thanks again. Will be on it tomorrow. Leo

Yeah, I learned that lesson the hard way. I had bought the bike with the intention of riding it into the NC mountains 9 months later. And I just wanted it to WORK... like, right after I bought it before the almost kinda winter of NC happened ;). I did manage to get skilled enough pulling everything out of the carb area in under 30 minutes though, so... I guess that's a good skill to have? Maybe?

Now if only I could get it back into the boots

Was gonna say, the coming out isn’t the problem, it’s the going in

I wasn't concerned. They only had to come off once as I bought replacements.

@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV what was the carb you used? OEM?

@@Lv.zx6r It's the stock carbs that came on the bike in '83. I bought a rebuild kit online for the jets and seals and such.

At least one was missing. I got lucky enough to have a screwdriver that fit the space. Even worse is they're self tapping

Update Went to store, bought longer screwdriver Problem solved all of my screw heads were just about stripped. I had a screwdriver that fit them decent enough. Put vice grips on the screwdriver handle and they all came off no problem. JIS screwdriver set will be on its way ASAP

@@psychedelicbdsm7301 yeah, JIS is a necessity with these older bikes.

Apologies. Very tall ceilings and just the one light in the garage.

You could maybe try a little heat. EG, hair dryer or heat gun. And then use a flat head pry bar/screw driver and a block to leverage off of and lift it just a bit at a time at different angles around the boot.

@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV Yup I got it out with a little heat but looking down in the head theres all kinds of crap in there. This is the first vehicle I've seriously wrenched on and I think I'm royally boned with all the stuff that is probably down in the rotating assembly

I was hoping it'd take off as the newest fashion trend! Alternately, the one on the right was a smart watch/fitness tracker that had to be removed constantly for recharging. That old g-shock on the left just keeps ticking along with a battery change once every few years.