Filming repairs like this in tight spaces is sooooooo difficult. Camera angles, lightining, just keeping your body out of the way... Ack! Every other word out of my mouth would have been blue. For your other viewers, it's important for all of them to know: _just the act of filming this alone_ slowed the repair process down to a snail's pace. And yet you've made it look like this was merely a normal week's work. I have nothing but amazement and respect for your capable video and mechanical skills combined in this incredible segment. Well done! As always, stay safe out there!

I too am a self taught mechanic. One thing I would suggest is to stop putting nuts, bolts, and parts on top of your engine after you remove them. You are just asking to have one fall down under or in an inaccessible place in the engine or under it. I have had this happen to often to spend more time wasted looking to retrieve the item. I always use a cardboard box. Beer/soda six pack cardboard cases work great. Not to big, you can rest them like a tray on top to hold all the parts. Additionally, I often poke a small hole in the cardboard to hold the bolts in place and in order and then use a marker to write on the cardboard notes about the bolt. Or draw a diagram of where the bolts came from on the cardboard. Hope this helps!

I've done mechanic work for over 35 years, engine rebuilds, brakes bearing etc. Good job of cleaning and getting it back up and running. I don't have a boat but I do have a truck that I take out into the desert in the middle of nowhere. It's very reliable, it's a 2001 Ford F350 with the famed 7.3L International Engine in it. Most engines have certain parts that are not always locally available that are critical to run the engine. I tend to keep those parts behind the back seat of the truck to ensure if it does break down I have them right there. Like a Water Pump, Hoses, belts and certain sensors. I also keep some internal parts available along with the special tools, if they are small tools, that allow for a side of the road replacement if needed and the maintenance manual as well. So far I've never needed any of them except a belt that I had to change in a food market parking lot, 15 minutes later we were on the road again. I would imagine you keep light weight parts like Gaskets, belts, a spare injector or water pump available so if it breaks down in the middle of nowhere you can get it fixed in a day or less. Regarding the oil cooler I would have just pulled the cap ends and run a long drill bit or wire through it rather than pull the whole side of the engine off, since you saw the problem was just inside the end caps. A helpful suggestion, when putting bolts back in, that can have moisture around them, is use some Anti-Seize compound like Permatex 133A or 81343. It's made of some grease and various metals that won't corrode and makes it very easy to get the bolts and nuts back off later, it also prevents bolts from breaking off in the engine. When installing large major components on engines, heads, exhaust manifolds, pumps make sure to use the proper torque pattern with a torque wrench and the proper torque setting. That will ensure the gaskets don't blow under load. If you don't have the Torque Pattern or sequence it's usually safe to start in the middle and work your way out in a cris-cross X pattern. If you don't have a head Torque Value, small 4 cylinder Heads are usually done in two or three steps. 1st step 25ft lbs, 2nd step 50 ft lbs and the 3rd or last step is a quarter turn (90 degrees) or around 60 ft lbs. Exhaust Manifolds are usually around 12-18 ft lbs. You can convert Ft lbs to Newtons by multiplying the force by 4.448 ie 10 ft lbs X 4.448 = 44.48 Newtons. In any case always make sure and go by the book when it's available. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I truly believe the Volvo Penta designers firstly designed the engine to be the most difficult thing to work on ,and the other lot went and found the most expensive parts on the planet.

Torque wrench. This should be your best friend when working on mechanical things. You have done a wonderful job cleaning and prepping your parts.

I just found your channel while watching "Sail Life" yesterday.. So Glad I did.. You have proven that the best way to afford this lifestyle is to figure it out yourself and you have done an amazing job with no fear of digging/tackling a job most would hire out and cost a fortune to pull off.. Great Job for a guy that says he's not a mechanic.. Your Mechanical ability and common sense is very good.. Great Video.. I look for to more.. Thanks for sharing.. Very inspirational..

Great episode Dom, I do this on heat exchangers onboard marine vessels and offshore rigs. Mainly for biosecurity issues but also efficiency. I was glad to see you didn't dive straight in for the expensive de-scalers. They're great if time is an issue but if not all you need is a little acidity and patience. Clean as a whistle by the end mate so top job!

Excellent job. In case no one else commented. No grease on torqued bolts. An anti-seize product exist, it will affect the torque setting so extra care when torquing bolts down.

Really love these tech-oriented episodes (as well as the others, of course!). For us, they help give the confidence to try things on our own without calling in an "expert", and they are always well presented and easy to follow. Thanks!

My tip if you want it - especially now you have the heat exchanger nice and clean. I buy the expensive stuff (Rydlyme), 5 litres should do your engine. Shut off the seacock, open up the strainer, get someone to start the engine while you pour the descaler in the strainer then shut the engine down as soon as it’s all in. Put the lid back on the strainer and leave for 8-12 hours. Do this once a year and your heat exchanger will stay looking brand new and no major strip downs with gaskets etc! I do this at the end of my season then flush the descaler out with fresh water via a hose in the strainer. I then drain my coolant and replace (you should do this every year) then pour the old coolant into the strainer same method as with the descaler. So now my raw water system spends the winter with fresh water and corrosion inhibiting antifreeze in it.

I am a mechanic retired after 40 years and you did good ! One thing young man on your electrical connections use Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound, it will make you happy in years to come ! Carry on.

For a non mechanic guy, you have done a very good job, Cheers

Great video. We had the same issues on our D2-55 and ended up in a similar situation last summer. We removed and cleaned the exhaust elbow in Cleaning vinegar (double the strength of normal but still gentle), removed both exchanger caps (our inlet was almost full of impeller bits from the PO), and we ran a drinking straw cleaning brush through each tube with the exchanger in place. And the trick for the last cap screw on the aft exchanger cap is to find a ball head Allen key. It allows about a 30 degree offset to remove the cap screw.

Sir, if you were a "non-mechanic" at the beginning you were a mechanic by the end. Well done!

Love your positive attitude towards a difficult undertaking. Nothing more satisfying than finishing a complicated process having the proper tools and know how and cost cutting along the way!! Excellent

Great video, very detailed. On my end I use Barnacle Buster and back flush my engines, that way i get most impeller parts back in my bucket if there are any loose ones in there.

Totally awesome vlog really enjoyed it, I am a mechanic and I thought u did a great job, so good to see u really clean the parts before reassembling, many tend to gloss over it but it's actually very important also don't be shy with the marine grease, or gasket sealant ok. Thanks for sharing hope Family are well. 🇦🇺💛💙

Dom, you have surprised me once again. Your ability to learn and engage these mechanical chores is amazing and well worth "Congratulations". Job well done!

I really appreciate the "music in the next room" effect.

Really excellent video. I have not cleaned my heat exchanger yet on my small Yanmar. I change my impeller every two years with new, and to my shock - last time I changed my impeller on routine maintenance - there was one blade missing! So that blade is in there somewhere on the front face of the heat exchanger. luckily, no overheat symptoms in the engine. It does appear to be WAY easier to just pull the heat exchanger out the front side of the engine on the Yanmar. They say BETA marine engines are designed with routine future maintenance in mind. Nice job. !

All I know about heat exchanger units is that it is a very hard, and expensive job. That was some of the most informative video I have seen on the task, as it was at my level, and gives me the confidence that with a bit of time and forethought I too could do more on my boat myself. Well done big man - sh*t hair cut, though.

Dom, awesome job! I too became a diy outboard mechanic on an old 85hp Mercury on the back of my boat....My best, most. helpful purchase for it was a ratchet spanner too!! Can't wait to see you guys get back up and cruising soon!. Its been great seeing your cruising/ journey so far. Especially enjoyed the sailing around the Sou west and Scillies...Use to call Falmouth home until I left for NZ years ago..Was a nice way to re-visit the place through your videos, which perfectly capture the pure essence of the sights and sounds. Love your enthusiasm for the English countryside and the coastline.too..Just need an aroma control for a full experience!! . Happy boat life and sailing to you three!! Cheers Rob in NZ!

Great job - for someone who is not a trained engineer mechanic you have a natural flair for mechanical things. Good luck Cardoha

Even for someone who DOES think they have good mech eng skills, this is a pretty heavy and long job, dissembling so much, but what a brilliant result. Huge congrats and a job very nicely done. The toilet brush holder was an idea of genius 😊

What an amazing video. I don't own a sailboat yet.. but seeing how involved this fix had to be really was an eye opener. Like yourself, I have zero (engine) mechanical experience. Respect to you, sir!

Omg, it's a good thing your a logical thinker,and plenty of patience, I would of lost it by the third road block, best of luck!!!😊

Thursday afternoon in Brisbane, Australia. I needed a set of parts for our wonderful Perkins sorry Volvo Penta. Several parts were not available and I was quoted delivery prices from Melbourne due the following week, on Friday (long weekend mate, etc). I called Parts 4 Engines on Thursday at 8:00 PM. They had the whole set and said they'd post them right now. A short time later around 10:30 PM Brisbane time, an email said my parts were at Manchester Airport. On Monday 8:30 AM, I got an email saying the parts were in Sydney. I thought this was just a cruel joke. Tuesday morning they were on my doorstep at 7:30 AM. 4 days earlier than I could get them here in Australia. Don't ask me about how much money I saved, but you do know we don't pay your 20% VAT on exported goods.

It's always a good day when you finish a job and discover that there are no spare parts left over.

Good job , was at cross house Sunday teaching boat handling,called to say hello to everyone but nobody home, keep up the great channel Regards Andy

Great job Dom. I feel your pain of having to half dismantle the engine just to replace or service another part of the engine. My Volvo Penta is a 2020B and I had overheating which I thought was the thermostat. To get to that I would have had to remove heat exchanger and many other ancillaries. Annoys me engines, including car engines, don’t seem to build in ease of maintenance. My issue turned out to be a blockage to the water inlet in the hull. It was fine low revs but as more water was required. The fouling on the hull was sucked over the inlet. Worth checking that if you haven’t recently. I went on the scrubbing piles at Emsworth and scrubbed the hull at low water. Cost £20, you guys should give it a try as it saves a huge lift out fee. Itchenor has a jet wash you can hire too. Give me a shout if you want a hand with it but I expect there is a scrubbing grid in Southampton Water somewhere. I’m a big fan of those ratchet spanner’s, they save many frustrating hours of getting an open ended spanner in tight spaces. Loved the gentle lounge music in the background. Good to see you on Mads channel and that your travels are not too far away. I’ve ranted on enough now lol. Andy UK

I'm really impressed by your patience in getting this job done. Impressive stamina. Well done. Cheers.

Brilliant job and really well filmed detailed. Well done and thanks. Not bad for a non-mechanic! Can't understand why the engine manufacturers make it so difficult to do basic engine maintenance, but seems fairly typical in my experience. I note most of the comments have already been made, like which way round the rear cover plate should fit, it looked correct from what I could see. Other comments are always worth seeing, everyday is a school day as you say. Also note Mads and others have moved their Volvo black electronic control box away from the engine block. I really enjoy all your videos, particularly it's great to see the variety of cruising life, including the boat maintenance and your sense of humour. Boats don't always perform perfectly and it's great to see how you deal with them. (That's often what makes them interesting)! Keep it up!!

I did this on my D2-40s. Although I eventually removed the heat exchanger to allow for some welding, I found that you can successfully remove any build up of scale in the cartridge by using a piece of copper multistrand wire. When you have stripped a short length with the strands folded back over the PVC. Use as a pipecleaner inside the tubes without removing the cartridge. All in all, as you say, best avoid removing the heat exchanger if you can. For the exhaust elbow, I used a high temperature silicone gasket maker to insulate the elbow/heat exchanger from the (conducting) gasket and consequent galvanic corrosion. Seems to be working 6 years later.

Another vote for Rydlyme, I used a litre of it with a litre of hot water pumped from a bucket and small 12v cheap whale submersible pump on my Volvo D1-30 via the sea water inlet and out through the water outlet pipe with the impeller removed. I made sure the engine was warm so that the chemical reaction was speeded up, and pumped it one hour one way and one hour the other way. You will see the bubbles showing the chemical reaction is taking place and they will slowly diminish as the complete system is totally cleaned. Have a look inside to confirm all is good, but it is magic stuff and it would have cleaned your heat exchanger in minutes. It is safe and a video is on their website showing a seashell dissolving in a puddle of it in a person's hand! Of course you had to get that end cap off to find the impeller parts, but that shouldn't be necessary in the future. But a great strip down job where you found other issues.

Gosh as a canal boater and future sail boater, this video really has been an amazing lesson!! A++ I've learn more in 12min so far than most of diesel books ive read.

Next time you have to clean your heat exchanger. I believe a.22 rifle Barrel cleaning brush and rod might fit through the tubes, I remember another sailor somewhere having used one.

That seems to have been done very sensibly and I found it , surprisingly interesting! Well done!

After watching this, I am grateful for my Beta Marina 20. I had an over heating alarm last summer and when safely back in port, traced the issue to a small barnacle in the heat exchanger. It was a pain but nothing compared to the challenge on your Volvo. Well done for getting it done. Hopefully yours is good for a few more years.

Well done on your fix. I read through all the comments and learned things too , you tube is great for this alone. Unmentioned in the comments is that solid copper gets work hardened in use. So solid copper gaskets don't reseal that well. However if the copper is heated , with a plumbers gas torch usually , and then cooled in water , the copper is good for reuse . This is called annealing . the copper is softened and will seal better for it . I learnt this trick when I fixed my Norton motorbike cylinder head which used a copper head gasket ; I never had to buy a new gasket ! Love your channel for the sailing , the visits , the fixes and yourselves . Thank you so much . Dave

What a job. Thanks for showing the entire process.

Well done sir. Excellent job and excellent video. And you are correct those ratchet wrench’s are worth their weight in gold. You won’t regret buying them. Take care and thanks for the video.

Taking the coolant lines off and back flushing is your best yearly fix .

I have just found your channel and think it's fantastic. Great job on solving the over heating issues 👏 👌

Super impressed with the cleanliness of your engine bay I've run out of time this year (we launch in a week). A deep clean is on the cards for the winter time though 👍

Thank you for this really informative record. Subscribed. Just the right level of detail to be a useful guide for all of us in the 'more challenged' group. You have a crazy amount of patience - I would have been swearing so much and so loud ... yours is a humbling instruction. Thumbs up for ratchet spanners but don't forget the lowly and largely forgotten Box Spanner - cheap, light, no moving parts (destroyed by salt) and can get you out of many jambs.

Use magnets to hold bolts together or to pull out unscrewed ones. Stainless steel doesn't rust also. It's what I use and do. Use it when applicable, efficiently and safe.

this is great! Very informative and good awareness creation for engine access needs for my boat shopping. cheers!

Good work mate! You seem to have come a long way… all the best

Great job with the service and video. I watched the whole thing as I enjoyed how clean and like new you made everything.

What a great episode... Been gone a while.. glad to catch up!! Thanks for sharing your lives with us ✌🏼💗😊❣️

Great video, and I'm impressed how you did this; kudos to you! Got me inspired to take apart my Penta when I get back to my boat :)

Nice work Dom! That was no easy job. I love my flex head gearwrenches!

Your video is very logical and will give lots of confidence in doing the same maintenance to me and lots of other boat owners the basics are pritywell all the same I have a pair of Tam 41 6 cylinder straight six turbo diesel engines in my searay 310 sundander sports boat here in sydney australia volvo being a common marine engine all videos people make is a great help to all boat owners and for sure helps to keep maintenance bills to a realistic cost from a labour point of view well done mate 👍 keep the videos coming how about a few more videos on my engines from somebody happy boating everybody ps enybody got a princess 45 flybridge for sale around 1990s as that's my next boat happy days to all boaters 😊

Just something to note. The rotation of the heat exchanger needs to match up with the rotation of your end cap. If you noticed that the cap with the hoses on it that had all the impeller remnants had a slit separating it into two halves? That slit needs to line up with the slit where there are no holes on your heat exchanger.

Loving your videos! You explain things and show it all so well. Very complicated and I know the feeling of going to take one thing off then realising you have to move so many other things.. one thought I had, can you put an anode somewhere in the exhaust manifold or the exhaust elbow to stop the corrosion. I feel like I saw that somewhere...

Really useful- thanks. I have a VP D1-20 & had an overheating problem. We tried lots, in the end we figured out it had to be the heat exchanger. We couldn’t get the tubes out so decided to acid them in situ. We used Red Lyme from Amazon & left it soaking in situ for a week. That was a couple of years ago-alls good

Videos are great to archive engine tear downs. Another useful way to keep track of the orientation of parts is using a paint pen. Just a line drawn across the part to the flange will help line things up when you reassemble.

Overheating. Start with the thruhull, then sea strainer, impellor, wear plate then, like you did, heat exchanger. If all that doesn't solve the issue, make sure your prop is not over pitched. It will show up when pushing the engine hard and can do some serious damage to your engine. You should be able to make about 80% of your max revs in neutral when in gear and motoring in flat water with little or no current. Great job on your repair.

Good work Dom.... and not one single swear word lol....Just a thought for the next time you check it. Get a air rifle cleaning kit. It has some fab long cleaning brushes that would fit in your cooling tubes. That way you wouldn't have to do a full strip down. Maybe check both end caps after 25-30 hrs engine run time just to see how clean it is. Take care bud ⛵👍

Brilliant video. I'm amazed how professional you are given what you say is limited experience. I'm not very good at this and would have been terrified as you took off more and more parts on getting it back together. I did a similar job on my Kubota/Nanni 22hp. Everything so much more accessible than Volvo. You truly did it the hard way. Thanks for sharing. I have to do a main engine oil seal next week and the engine has to come out to get to it. I'm more confident now and insoired.....cheers!

I’ve cleaned countless Volvo Penta heat exchangers over the years. Their 2000 series engines coolant plumbing piping will virtually always leak regardless of effort to seal. A real shame. Get yourself a Skandvik (or equivalent) flexible shaft nut driver sized for the ABA SS hose clamps installed. They are extremely handy.

Awsome job!!! I love watching your videos, especially because I have exactly the same engine in my boat :P Great Tipps and a great source of knowledge how to handle engine problems. Keep on making these videos! Our iron horse will have it ultimate battle test this summer when we will go from northern Germany to Marseile through the canals. Currently I have my raw water pump in fron of me with a totaly destroyed ball-bearing.

Great video ... very informative for a soon-to-be newbie. Thank you!

I am deeply impressed. You're a braver man than I am. Thank God I know how to call a mechanic. ;-))

Well I say that you've done a pretty good job especially in a tight space like that and also I think it's amazing how much you care about the corrosion some people would never even think about fixing it good on you. For giving it a go as you will never know how to fix it if you do not try. That's how I learned to fix cars. And having gloves on is more of a a pain because there always breaking so its more of a mess to clean up at the end I also like to feel the things I work on because a lot of the time you can't see what it is you working on. But I do not judge we're gloves if you wish as it's your own choice.

Great video, I'd never seen a coolant/seawater cooling system but it looked like you'd been working on engines for years. I had a penta gasoline engine in a smaller boat and would have loved to have that much room to access the motor. I had to change the thermostat about once a year and I would have replaced the coolant hoses while you had them off. They are prone to failure but fairly inexpensive. I'd recommend getting a set and keeping them on board

Great job on the engine work just a tip on set belt tension you only want to make the belt tight enough that you can twist the belt 90 degrees. Any more then that and you can wear out the bearings in the alternator and pump.

Good job on the heat exchanger, I used the same method to clean my large espresso machine, vinegar works great and fast if you heat it up a bit.

Good job. I am so great full for my GM two stroke diesel after seeing how much effort it took you to get to your strainer out

I recently had to do the exact job on a Vetus. I was tearing my hair out after having gone through everything, inlet seacock strainer, inline strainer, raw water impellor and finally the heat exchanger. The whole time I had good water flow out the exhaust. Luckily getting the heat exchanger out was a whole lot easier. Whilst there was quite a lot of marine growth on the salt water side, and I though that this must be it, a good clean out didn't solve the problem. An IR thermometer showed the max temp anywhere on the engine was only getting to 60 Deg C. The Temp Sender unit was only getting to 50 Deg C and still the alarm was blaring withing minutes of starting the engine. Not even enough time to get it warm. Eventually discussion with the Agent revealed that some of the temp sensors on certain models where know to be oversensitive. Replacement of temp sensor is the next step... I am really glad my heat exchanger is so much easier to get to. Nice video. Looking forward to your battle test.

A pick, a radiator hose pick (which can be u-shaped), and/or a short indexing pry bar may be useful for gently freeing a hose.

Gasket surfaces can be kept very clean and flat without scratches by taking a properly sized pain of glas (cut it to size in order to cover just one or even beter two or three smaller gasket surfaces at the same time or just cover just one big one) glueing on some very very fine 1200 grid sandpaper and sanding of glue and other residue with the extremely flat glas sanding surface just using the glass pain/ piece as a sanding board. If the part lets you it’s also practical to lay down the sandpaper glued on glass and to move the part instead of the sanding board/ glass.

Hi Dominic and carly and hanks i like these repair videos shows ppl how to fix them self n save cash well done great videos guys

If you're interested in any of my older 'Boat DIY' videos, there are not many, but the few I have are here: Adjusting the valve clearance and changing the rocker cover gasket (Volvo Penta D2-55F) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e5eda9F20cnOhJ8.html Raw Water Pump Rebuild (Volvo Penta D2 55) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hbR9gs1jtr_IpoU.html Our DIY Solar Power Upgrade kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aph1hpl3nsC3g2w.html Our DIY Chinese Diesel Heater kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iLNdgad8x-DamY0.html DIY Sail Drive Service kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pad0e5xjy8m2XY0.html Again, many of these are older videos, I'm not a mechanic, just a guy trying to figure these things out, mostly with the help of youtube or people I bump into and ask questions of in marinas. I'm dyslexic so I almost never read manuals or anything technical, because it's really difficult and mostly just makes me feel stupid when I know I'm not, I just need to find other ways to learn these skills than most people. I hope you find some of them useful. Apologies for some of the filming quality in the older videos, again, this whole endeavor is a work in progress. 😁😁🙏🏻⛵

Great job. I will do this on my boat this spring. Thankfully mine will have a little better access.

A forgotten part if the cooling system is the thermostat , which is on top of the engine most times. It can be stuck open most times , or doesn't open completly. You can check it just by putting it in boiled water. Thermostats wear out , when in doubt ...change it! Nice video , Greetz John.

I liked this video very much, very useful, and inspiring: Going through the process of "removing one small bit after another for access before finally realising it is easier to just remove the whole damn assembly" is exactly the process I used :) My tube assembly, on a Lombardini LDW 502, was "welded" in there and wouldn't come out at all. One cannot force it too much because it is all brass and super-soft aluminum, eager to be scratched up and never seal again. After a day of struggle, I took the assembly out, it's only four hoses and four screws, got it home to the workshop. It literally popped apart in 10 minutes with no forcing required because now one could work at it from all sides. Lombardini recommends using a 10% solution of muriatic acid in water at 50 degrees centigrade temperature for the descaling. Takes about 15 minutes to do. I also replaced all the O-rings in there, since they are probably about 20 years old by now.

Try using a small 90 degree pick tool to break those seals - easier than a screw driver and maybe less chance of splitting the hose. Really good video.

Great job Dom, especially with limited experience. There is a coolant drain plug near the bottom of the engine which you can attach a hose and drain. Be careful with the ratchet spanner. If you undo a nut and there is not enough room at the end to get the ratchet out due to a short bolt, then your ratchet and bolt are stuck. Solution is to cut (hacksaw) the bolt and may not have enough room for a nut. The sensor you put grease on before connecting on the side of the engine was a electric conducting grease I hope. Most grease is not. My volvo penta (different models) heat exchangers had one small hole half way along which needed to be at the top. Did you see a small hole? If not then they have changed the design. Recheck your bolts and nuts with correct torque after 5 or ten hours use then you can relax as you have done a very good, careful job. André in Sydney.

As another boat owner This is what I tune in to see plus Hank hehe I tend not to paint flexible hoses. Great job engine rebuild next hehe

This video made me laugh and laugh because it just got weirder and weirder, 🤣 from all the parts you had to take off to get to the actual part to using the motor as an instrument and all the colourful pipe cleaners and then you oaint the motor because obviously the more you touch, the more projects open up haha 🙈 Don't get me wrong, this video is absolutely well made and you're doing an amazing job. I was searching for some KZfaq video for my Volvo Penta MD17C which I'm currently taking apart. It's not really similar to yours but I just got stuck watching this and enjoyed it so much. 😄 I'm glad you got everything installed and the motor running! 🎉 Good job!

Well done. You seem to be low on mechanical experience but able to adapt and learn quickly to get it done.

Thanks for this video, very helpful as I am in the middle of doing this on a D2-55A......while the HE element on my engine comes out in the other direction, its actually much to do once you pull the whole assembly off as per this video.......kind a crazy for a regular maintenance item as noted but there you go. Pretty sure I'm the first to do this on our engine's 1300 hours/20 year life and hopefully will be good for many years to come with scheduled coolant changes.

SERIOUSLY impressed. I’d have lost it after 20 minutes.

Two things for future reference: 1. The videos and pictures are good but what if your computer gets wet and you need to do a repair and put it back as it was? After years as a diesel/automotive technician I’ve learned to use either a punch/cold chisel/ letter stamp set to mark the parts so I can just match the marks when reassembling. If time allows you can even use a marker/tape/puff paint. 1. That gasket that broke… they can be reused if you grease one side so it doesn’t stick to the metal. The grease will do two things, it will prevent it from sticking to the metal and help it seal because it helps the gasket to completely form itself to the metal surface.

mate, thank you for a great, detailed, very informative video!

Great job spannering Dom, cracked my knuckles many times over the year's

Wonderful job Mate, If your familiar with aviation this type of maintenance is done every 100hrs . I chose to do this maintenance every 300hrs . Impeller & Heat Exchanger at the same time . It will keep your engine happy, not barking at you with alarms . And using sea foam in your fuel tank along with seafoam when changing fuel filters which keep your injectors clean . Steady as she goes 👍

You could have the surface for the exhaust hit with a TIG welder to build up the area. Then - it’s just refacing.

Great to see how much you've learned about marine engines in the years since you bought her. Might be worth buying some gasket material for emergency use. You can sometimes cut it to shape if you're stuck. As Mads and Ava would say "See you" 😜 P. S. thanks for sparing us your swearing, very funny. Demonetised by YT!! 😄

great work Dom if you were to go over to someone else boat with the same penta you'd probably finish the job in a few hours cause you now know where to go and what you need

Enjoyed that immensely mate👍. I was thinking it might be a good idea to but some liquid steel, stuff in a tube that sets like metal. So if you have any future dissimilar metals issues you can make a repair to get out of trouble. Also another interesting thing with dissimilar metals; it can still occur even with an insulating material like a gasket. The galvanic process or electrochemical reaction between the different metals can utilise water and depending on flow direction, so a greater or higher metal to a lesser metal can cause corrosion to continue to take place. Very interesting stuff. Good job guys.💪

Fine job my friend!

We do “CIP” cleaning onboard, Cleaning In Place. Use a citric acid solution and pump it round the heat exchangers for a few hours by removing the pipes from the end caps and putting new ones on with a small pump and tank. Replace the solution as it gets dirty etc. A-lot easier than taking stuff apart! Also check thermostat you can test it opens at the right temperature by heating water on the stove. Opening temp will be written on the Thermostat itself. Also always check sea strainer like you already did and always impeller. Maybe water coming from the exhaust but maybe not enough! But yes finding impeller parts in the heat exchanger is very common in my line of work! Its always the sea side of the heat exchanger that is worst, especially if the engine doesn’t run for a long time, and thats what you can CIP clean! Drop me a whatsapp if you need any more info guys!

Dom, you’re such a nice guy, I can’t believe you were a cage fighter in a former life. I love your channel, stay safe.

Great video, thank you. Also, i believe, If you have to bond a gasket on. Do it on the removable part side. Later it will be easier to clean off on bench, than while in a hole.

EASY WAY!! I shut off the engine sea cock with the engine running, stop the engine as soon as sea water stops coming out of the exhaust. Open the strainer and get your assistant to start the engine while you fill the strainer with white vinegar. As soon as stuff comes out the exhaust stop the engine, replace strainer and wait a few days...... to finish, just open the engine sea cock, start the engine and admire all the calcium deposits leaving your exhaust. Obviously doesn't deal with bits of impeller;) but you can get to those easily enough. My md22l takes just over 4 liters of white vinegar. Great videos !

Great video. Many thanks. You seem to have the same disfunctional issues I have....painting the engine......even parts that cannot be seen. I have such empathy with this. On the overheating. When I bought or chartered a boat they always told you the max sustainable revs for economy & overheating. So I came to the conclusion that running an inboard diesel engine close to max revs causes it to overheat. In my experience you can fend this off by dumping all the hot water in the calorifier (to increase the heat sink) but it comes a time that you need to reduce revs. I will look forward to your future video and see if you have solved the problem or simply increased the revs that cause it to happen. PS - what happened to that lovely head of hair...it's gone!!

I honestly cannot believe how hard checking that heat exchanger on the Volvo. On my westerbeke the heat exchanger is external to the engine and super easy to check !! Wow kudos to your determination tearing the whole engine appart !!

Its the only way to learn. Know your engine. Have the tools. Looking at the exchanger/impeller condition you may have been able to get away with just an impeller change. The other thing is that if the external cooling sea water goes through the internal parts of the tubes of the exchanger it might be easier to reverse flush any debris using extension hoses and external pump rather than taking many parts down to do the job. The engine cooling if containing antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor should be pretty clear. Still you learnt a lot of info, provided a lot and did it very professionally. Well done.