I have the same model. I cleaned the coils that were dirty and with a compressor and then found the drain hoses were clogged when i pulled them off. I also cleaned the solenoid with a Q-tip and vinegar. I also pulled off the panel and covered the beginning of the copper to the coils just to the silver part and plugged the unit back in and it is working better than before. Your tips helped. The drain hoses I believe were a big part of the unit freezing and clogging the drain, that caused he pooling of water.

The black thing looks like a solenoid coil. When current flows thru it, generates a magnetic field. Inside the metal piece is an iron plunger that gets moved up and down. Same as the starter solenoid on your car. All others I have seen are just two position, in or out. Since this seems to be able to send refrigerant to either refrigerator section, freezer, or both, maybe it's a 3 way. Middle (rest) position flows to both, top to one, bottom to the other. They might be able to do this by altering the current flow to the coil. One direction pops it up, current the other direction pops it down. No current flow = middle = flow to both. At 6:52 it kind of looks like it has separate top and bottom windings. Maybe energizing one or the other moves the plunger up or down? The plunger might have been stuck, you unstuck it when you tapped it. Or coil might have had a poor electrical connection and when you moved it around it got better contact. Coils usually fail open, but occasionally get shorts in the windings. Moving it around probably wouldn't affect that, so don't think the coil failed. Disclaimer: not a refrigeration tech. Electronics, industrial, engineering, USPS tech.

Hi bro. Thanks for your video. It was very helpful. I am still having trouble with my frigde but it helped me tonlookbfor other areas on it to check. Due to ur video i am reacing some parts myself. Thanks again

You never put the link in the description below for that black solenoid part.

I have that exact same refrigerator man the bottom evaporator coil dont get cold at all like the top is there a reason for that ? Any ideas??

Looks like I have the same fridge. GREAT video but now can you tell me how to program it to send ice to the lower drawer

Thank you!!

I have exactly the same problem you describe in your video, and have run the same diagnostics. So, I tried removing the Pulse Solenoid Valve and cleaning it as you did. Hoping it will work like it did for you, but if it doesn't I was thinking of buying a new one. However, no one seems to carry the part. Were you able to get one?

My daughter is having this same problem on her GE bottom freezer. Coil in back is clean, coil condenser inside freezer wasn't frozen up. I'll have to check that coil relay thing or whatever they call it. Looks like an electronic coil that controls some king of valves inside to open and close.

How do know if the coil needs the replacement? What I s the input power/voltage to the coil and what is the source? Is it the motherboard or the inventor board? What is the replacement part number for the coil and how one may order it? How do you know if the coil is getting any power and where this connector is being fed power from the motherboard or inventor board and the location of the pins connection on either of the board? The inventor has solid red light indicating working normal and does not find the faulty coil for refrigerator valve.

I have the exact one the top and bottom not getting cold I really do think it's something I'm missing Any ideas

The absolute worst refrigerator(Samsung). I have one that’s just 4 years old. Ice maker hasn’t worked now the top fridge is not cooling. Tried to reset, didn’t work. So I guess my next step is to pay a pro a few bucks to fix a high price fridge. Samsung created a fridge with job security!

Im having the same issue and i have the same exact Samsung u have but it dont have that piece on the back u was referring to

Does your fan have to be running all the time ? What happens if you put a new one and still don’t run ?

That is a magnetic solenoid when energize it pulls the valve up in the solenoid valve

NSCEV01TA1 replacement single pulse valve Refrigerator pulse solenoid valve

Once everything is reset how long do these fridges take to actuality get cold

I have a Samsung same as this my fridge was not cooling . It is the issue with the rain cooling system. The drain was frozen Samsung will not replace the part but u can buy longer piece to go on the drain n down in it . Its 6 bucks on Amazon I replaced mine 4 yrs ago and I took the back apart on thin cooling in fridge. I defrostEd it myself while it was apart put new thing in drain that hooks easily over heating thing and haven't had issues since today but no ice is in fridge now so off to Google more for this single mimi to figure out today's issue which I think may be the seals are looking rough so I cleaned then and put on power cool and it's cooling down now so we will see

I’m pissed

Unplugged and allowed it to defrost for 2 days. After two days it is cooling properly

It funny how we the HVAC tech s fix all heating and AC system and we can’t fix the refrigerator. Mine is 19 years old and I guess I’m buying a new one .

The main problems in all refrigerators and freezers are the temperature sensors depending on its quality, but if you don't keep your external condensers coils clean, and internal and external air circulation UN-obstructed it will cause you a faulty operation and very likely a mayor repair. Be mindful under which conditions is your unit installed, dusty, clean, exterior, interior... then monitor and adjust your cleaning schedule accordingly. There is nothing you can do about a sensor going bad with the time, but erratic temperature on any of the compartments after you visually check the condenser coils, drains, fans, defrosting resistance operation, door seals and any other component to ensure are in good working condition and clean; then, your sensors needs to be the source of your problem. Measuring the resistance on temperature sensors with a multi-meter is a way to confirm the faulty ones, but you need to have the corresponding resistance data to compare the values and confirm if the resistance response is correct, the response or resistance value will depend on ambient temperature on which the test is performed.

😊 that long-ass video and don't even know the culprit

Never buying Samsung again!