Glad to have fresh oil throughout the Rangie now. I was impressed by how quick and easy the oil extractor pump (amzn.to/3tRcE8C) made the oil change - but what do you guys reckon? Are you suckers or drainers?

The Oil Filter O ring - or seal ring that you throw away from the filter, just cut them, in case they end up in the ocean as such a lot of junk does or in land fill where animals/birds can get them stuck on their necks.

Just did my 300,000 mile service on my 2006. Original engine, tranny, and in tact air suspension. Keep fixing it it’ll keep going. Never sucked it once.

You certainly like to live dangerously with those gallon cans to drain oil into! I use an old washing up bowl, a much easier target to hit, and you can also let the drain plug drop in there as well, you really need a 4 poster to do this job, but then it would not be an adventure, at least it was not snowing, or 45 degs! Many thanks for posting this, it is inspirational. Chris B.

A tip for draining the oil into a gallon plastic can. lay the can on its side and cut a large square hole in the top side . This will give you a much larger target to get the oil into, just remember to refit the lid before use . You can then decant through the lid and into another container for disposal and keep your new oil drain receptacle in your tool kit for next time .

Amazing video Sam! Love the fact that someone is taking care of this amazing truck! Hoping for many more trouble free miles down the road!

You should feed one of the thinner pipes down through the tube into the bottom of the sump then link that to the thicker pipe that attaches to the pump. That's why they seem short, you link them together.

Sam, thank you SOOOO much for the comment about the noise at the front of the engine. I just bought my L322 about a month ago, and the other night I noticed it making the same noise. So glad to hear others have it, and that it’s not a cause for concern! I wish we had the 4.4’s over here in the US, but regardless it’s a relevant and great video for me!

Hi Sam, according to the advert on Amazon for this product you can lengthen the suction pipe by using 2 or more all joined together.

Sam - a huge thank you for this video. Just did the same on my 09 L332. Would not have been able to do this without your guidance.

Thank you so much. It looks like it's something I could do myself. I wonder how much you saved? 23:25 was the best part of the commentary. 😂

Great video Sam, enjoying this new push on your content! Keep them coming…

Really good guide to changing lubricants in the L322 RR. Just ordered my oils and will be doing a service soon.

Another great video Sam. So much so I think I may have a go at doing my own oil and filter service when it’s due in the summer.

Great video, Sam! Makes me want to get the spanners out. Loving the new content - keep it coming

Great video, great camera angles to see every step of the process. I did feel for you lying on those stones!

Definitely made me want to tackle a service on my Insignia. Great video!

Great Vid Sam, getting a 4.4 TDV8 L322 in a month or so, service looked easy enough, loved your 6 mods vid as well, keep up the good work.

Great content Sam, we've just upgraded from a 2005 S/C L322 to a 4.4 TDV8. Enjoying all your vids, may have to invest in one of those oil drain pumps, like you I prefer to change much more frequently than the factory schedule. Good work, keep it up 👍

Superb. looks like as long as you service the beast regularly it will look after you whatever miles are on it..

Hi sam. I just did my first oil and filter change in my RR thanks to you! Bought the pump and a 36mm socket. Just a note. When I took the old filter out it had an insert in the centre (maybe no drain valve?) I reused it into the new filter. Thanks again. Great useful videos

Hi Sam, I subbed to you when I was looking at buying a High milage 3.6 V8. I gambled and although it’s not perfect. It’s done 207k so just needs love! Good work on yours!

Great video, keep them coming Comrade.

Good One Sam!! Did my L322 service last year borrowed a sucker from local garage, but might invest in one this year! Went with liqui moly oil in mine with their oil additive and ceramic additive. Used Mann filters. Will be doing annual service or 8k similar to you. 👍 Coolant replacement, along with thermostat and water pump and power steering fluid being done in a couple of weeks. Then road trip to Wales for a week😎 when I get back and it's dry need to get another Lanoguard coating applied underneath. Keep it up. 👍 Thanks Sam

Well done Sam!

Great stuff, keep it up!

Hi. Sorry for my english if its sometime wrong. Its self-learned. I also make big service by my self couple monts ago, including brake fluid and power steering fluid. I make engine wash also, using cheap oil and filter. Extract and drain old oil, change filter and refill about 6 liters of sheap oil. Start the engine for about 30 seconds. And then change oil again and put new filter also. Now you have really nice and clean oil inside. But. Under the engine, there is also small oil pan (turbine drain) with cup. Did you not open this cup and didnt drain oil from there? Its very easy to change brake fluid on this car, even dont need to remove wheels. Just need to assist by pushing brake pedal, you know what I mean. Power steering. Need to lift up both front wheels. Then extract old oil from the tank first. Next, need to disconnect back-hose from the tank and extend it with some another, longer hose to reach in some canister. Also need to close hole on tank where you take hose off. And then fill up the tank with new fluid. Ignition on (to unlock steering wheel). Then you need to assist to turn the wheels compleatley to the left and to the right couple times. During turning steering wheel old oil coming out. You need to watch oil tank not going empty same time, to avoid getting air in system. When outgoing oil looks clean, its enough. Connect hose back to tank and make correct fluid level. Done. Additionaly, I remove the tank and wash it inside. There is a small filter inside the tank, its good to make it clean as well. I make also transmission fluid full change (in specialized service of course).

Only question on using the pump method is the risk of leaving the sludge at the bottom of the sump. Old school flushing and removing the sump plug, although time consuming, just feels better to me.

As always your knowledge of everything makes me smile , mam of many talents 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Brilliant video , keep them coming 👍🏼

Great video Sam. Used all the links, ordered the parts and oil vacuum pump. serviced the Westminster this afternoon “minus the bacon sandwich” ;) running like a dream.

The fact your good lady so readily agreed to a 4-post ramp means she's very much a keeper!!! 😀 Another good video Sam. Will be interested to see if you note an improvement in mpg now you've swapped all fluids out for fresh stuff.

Mate that was good timing about the fan cause mine has started making a ticking noise every now and then at start up at the front and wasn't to sure what it was. As for the sucker I would only use it for about 2 oil changes or so then drain as that way you can see if any crap is sitting in the sump.

Great video as usual Sam. Did my transmission yesterday on a gravel drive so am very much sharing in your pain! Just a word to the wise - don't know if the 8 speed ZF box has the same sleeve for the electrics as the 6 speed but I was sent a Britpart replacement as part of a kit (including genuine ZF oil) - the bloody o' rings were definitely oversized and I couldn't get it to seat at all (after a good hour of struggling!) Tried the old one and it went straight in so it wasn't just me being a dick!. Took the o rings off the old one and did a comparison and the new ones were significantly bigger. Thankfully I have a box full of various o rings so found some that worked. Was at the point of wishing I hadn't bothered. Date on the original sump was 2007 so very glad I did the job. Transfer box and diffs is my next job. Cheers

That oil transfer pump may just be the coolest thing I ever saw. The last oil change I did was a drain and it made a horrible mess. I will investigate, but does anyone know if that should still work on ‘11 with 5.0 gas motor? Thanks for the video Sam. Your glamorous assistant did a great job too!

My viscous fan is 12-18 months old and makes that noise.

Good work

If you save another empty screenwash bottle and leave the lid on you can cut a large square hole out the biggest side and make a free drain pan for diff etc. Easily emptied into another bottle for disposal.

Great vidio. Thanks.

Hi Sam don't forget map sensor clean too great job

Thanks!

Sam. Many thanks for this - a really useful reference video. I will be doing the same on my 4.4 in a couple of weeks and it is so useful to have someone talk through the steps. I will certainly look into the oil suction pump and avoid hot dirty engine oil ending up all over my arms as usual.

Hi, Sam! Nice to watch so detailed videos. Some tip for the future: Take windscreen washer can and cut huge hole in the side. That's my own experience lol ;) For me car feels smoother and quiter even after washing them :D

Good video 👍

Great video as always! Can you PLEASE do a video of the engine and exhaust sounds just generally driving around some hilly countryside? There seems to be a severe lack of 4.4 TDV8 sound on KZfaq

Just like you Sam I have to scrabble around under my vehicles first time tryed with a drill pump and on my own the inevitable happened bottle went over transfer box oil all in my hair lol brought a pump like yours next time much clearer. 😅 Great vid mate Happy New year to you both and more videos to look forward to in 2023.

Clever man 👏👏👏👏👏

Thank you for the great video. Which oil are you using for the difs and transfer box?

Hi Sam! Great video! But, i heard you say that the oilfilters didn't look the same. Made the same observation, there is a plastic thing in the middle that i think you need too move over! Might bee a one way Valve. But i could not find any where to put the two smal o-rings either.... Fredrik

Just sat through this video, knowing that I have mine to do. Have had the parts for a while, just waiting for better weather. I think it’s Mann filters that are oem.

I bought my 2008 RRS HSE non supercharged for $500, yes five hundred, so far been a great car, owned it for 3 years now and no major issues

Great vid as per usual! The official oil filter is manufactured by Mann, I got one last week for another ‘11 4.4 that I’m replacing the turbo on. The sucker works pretty well on these, also works great on the sdv6/ingenium engines, only issue with using the sucker on the tdv8 is your not draining the turbos which is done via the second drain plug at the rear of the engine, it’s a bit of a pain in the ass on the l322 as the plug is about 1.5 inches from the subframe! Grand and handy on the l320 sport tdv8 as there is no subframe in the way! Back in the dealership I used to always use the oil vac as we were only allowed 1 hour ish for a small service so by the time you had undershieds, sump plug out etc you would be gone way over time compared to having oil vac on while removing the oil filter/topping up screen wash etc!

Great video. Do you have the IID tool or IID tool Pro? Thanks

Sam, yet another fantastic video - really informative and helping us all to keep our L322s in fine health and on the road. It would be great if you would do one on a full brake fluid change and also a coolant change as the last of the routine service jobs! Keep up the fantastic work!!

Sam, great stuff. Very helpful. Are you planning on changing the coolant at any point? Looks like a faff with a vacuum tool so would love to see it done! 😮

I always pre fill my fuel filter with injector cleaner....at 200k runs like a dream...

Hi Sam, great video (I dont even own a RR but I enjoyed your video).

Great job Sam, What OBD2 tool and software you're using?

I like to prime the fuel filter with injector cleaner fuel additive

Oh to have a cabin filter like that instead of the ridiculous Ford Focus cabin filter. You need to be double jointed to fit the Ford one.

Thank you for another gr8 video! Cannot wait 'till i have one of these, L322 that is, not Utube channel, lol :)

Great and interesting video!❤ i think the L322 4.4 diesel V8 is a tank,unbeatable and same as an Audi 3.0 V6 Tdi :D

Pro tip. Buy a funnel for topping up the oil.

Thanks

Try a short piece of conduit to lever the Allen key

One of the straws in the suction kit as an extender... I think you used the extender to suck the oil. I have the same kit and the bigger one goes onto the smaller ones. HTH.

Far too much innuendo for one video 🤣

Great video, I've got the same car and slowly working through similar things you've done. Got the transmission flush, diff and transfer box booked in to a garage because ive taken the easy way out :) I just wondered if yours suffers from the puffs of oil smoke when you haven't used the 2nd turbo for a while? mine does but the oil drain mod that people talk about looks expensive

Do you know the part numbers or sizes of the the diffs and transfer case drain and fill washers please. Going to give it ago myself. You have encouraged me to to buy a range rover (2 days ago) and do all the servicing myself.

Love the content, sadly I didn’t buy the 4.4tdv8 I bought a 3.0 but it was £500 with a suspension fault and near enough full service history so couldn’t give up the chance of buying it especially at £500. Currently getting the suspension sorted and gearbox and engine service and it’s good to go fingers crossed

Hey Sam! Thank you for all your videos. I have the same car and I've just followed your advices! Transmission flush, Led lights... I have one question, I couldn't find the answer on the internet for this RR model. How can I reset the "Service Required" message? I have tried by opening the bonnet and the driver's door, ignition ON but engine off, depressing brake and gas for 30 sec and ignition off...IT DOESN'T WORK on 4.4 tdv8 2011! Kind regards Sam, many thanks in advance

Hi Sam comments on the noise from fan I would check the top idler above the tensioner for end float this is due to the lack of grease in the bearing in the manufacturing. I’ve had two new ones like this and found no grease apart from a smear on the dust seal , I greased my old one noise gone worth checking out if anyone has replaced them make your supplier aware of this .

Nice job 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

As you where underneath I would have drained oil from the sump.

Great video sam, How did you get the digital speed on the dash ??

Hello Sam, How long does it take to replace the diesel/water separator ? Mine has been 180 000 km (10 years) but hasn't been replaced yet! Thank you, I'll looking forward to your reply!

Great video again Sam. Any idea how to reset service required message on screen when I start up. L322 2009 face-lift 3.6 vogue se

Mobil 1 or she’ll helix ultra 3-5k intervals is a good option on most cars / engines

Hi Sam, enjoying your videos, I've noticed you have the mph in digital just under your speedo. Is this something you did or was it already on the dash? I would like to apply it to mine if possible. Cheers.

Very informative for when I eventually get my Rangey but you left out the most important piece of information, what was in the sandwich?

Great video Sam. Was the pump bottle you used to fill the diffs back up just a generic one or does it have a name/number etc?

I’ve been thinking of getting a Range Rover off and on. Do it yourself service maintenance is an option on these vehicles. So many modern vehicles you are obliged to take to a garage because you can hardly get a fag paper between parts to get at the or they require special tools. For this service the Range Rover looks doable and your demonstration fills me with much confidence that I can handle it. Well done no curse words, which I dare say I’d have had to bleep out if I had been doing the servicing video 😂 Thank you.

Great guide. Quick question, do you warm the engine up before sucking the oil out, or is the idea to do it when the engine is cold if you are sucking it out?

hi and thanks for the informative video! Very nice!! Regarding oil change, there is no magnet in the bottom pan, and then it is probably important to drain the oil from the bottom so that the bottom sludge and shavings come out? something that is not possible with the suction method?

Sam. I have been reading up about engine oil. Do you think there are any special considerations for high mileage FFRRs other than more frequent changes? Would a premium oil be that much better than a plain spec version? Do you think there is any merit at all in the additives eg molybdenum to reduce friction? I understand there’s a filter mechanism at the base of the sump - worth taking the sump off for a thorough clean out every three changes perhaps? Tribology is interesting.

The “electronic rear diff” is the locker right? Does this lovking diff have the same carbon clutches that the 5.0 lockers have?

So would we need to add two snorkels if we wanted to add a snorkel to a 4.4 TDV8?

Thoughts on the Fumitomo F-106 oil drain valve - or the US version - EZ oil drain valve with a length of tubing attaching come oil change time? If you wanted to go belt and braces - pump from the top AND drain from the sump? Would appear to offer a way of dealing with the "uncontrollable" outpouring albeit a small residual after pumping. The pump is excellent and I'm wondering if on the 3.6 whether you can ease the tube over the dip-stick tube instead of threading the narrow tube down the neck to replicate what happens on the 4.4 with the dedicated pipe?

Hi Sam, just decided to do a service on my L322 after watching this video some time ago. Now it's done I want to clear the "Service Required" notice on the dash. I have an IID Tool (after watching your comparison video) but can't work out how to clear the service notification. Any chance you could give me a heads up on this? Thanks for the great content - keep it coming!! Cheers. Kevin

Hi Sam, love the content. Interested to know if you have sorted out your suspension problems? Thanks

Hi Sam, next time try using WD40 on oil sump plugs before removal - “work smarter not harder”.

What's the part number for the diesel filter?

DPF, EGR, best to get rid off. What EGR does to intake valves and intake manifold is nightmare.

I recently did the timing chains and belts of the V6 variant of this engine. That was a challenge. Next time, I will take off the chassis to get access. Are you planning to do those chains any time soon?

How much was your complete service kit

HI all my 2011 4.4TDV8 has now covered 250,000 miles, oil change every 6k and she runs very well, only issue I have is if I put anything in the boot the suspension comes up with a fault, but does not go down on any side, remove the weight in the back and no fault is shown?

Are you going to do anything with your egr valves? Clean them or remove them possibly?

Gear box filter wasn’t done any reason why?

Next time, rather than trying to drain into the top of your screen wash cap, put then lid on the bottle and cut the side off!

You get a much better deal buying your engine oil in 20lt tubs