This is probably the most important thing you can do for your L322. Check the links in the description to get yourself some Neutrarust and Lanoguard!

After the cleaning and rust converter I would use some epoxy primer then something like stonechip / raptor liner then a final coat of a Lanolin or wax product to get in the areas you cannot. P.S great video, pity more people don’t do this to their car’s regular

That is really helpful. Thanks for spending some of your holiday time on putting that together! Your L322 looks great!

Everybody has their favourite ways of treating rust. Personally I like to use a converter gel like Bolt Hamber Deox to get the bulk of rust converted to good metal before one of t the phosphoric acid based treatments (that go black). I don't like painting straight over though so I prefer to sand it back with 800 grit so that it only remains in the pits. I then use an epoxy mastic paint, either sprayed or rolled on, and then top coat with a 1k enamel. This gives a really solid and tough finish, which then gets overheated either with a rubberised 3m spray (not the disgusting tar one) or BH Dynax wax - I've not found the lanogaurd to be as long lasting, despite both using lanolin derivatives. I also don't like the highly regarded BH zinc primer as a base, the epoxy mastic is far, far superior, especially if applied to sandblasted steel. The other thing with this is that I find a scotch wheel on the grinder to be more effective than the wire wheel as the wire polishes the steel and makes anything you put on less likely to stick. Blasting is best, but either a sanding disc or a scotch wheel are a good alternative. Just my 2c from restoring a few cars over the years, the current one being an old Impreza (which means lots of rust!). I also like to get marine grease into all the corners before rebuilding too, it's good stuff.

Thanks for doing this, I have to do this project this spring

Thanks Sam. I had this on the to do list for spring so this video will be really helpful. Thank you.

You did a great job here Sam … I did a quick undercoating myself and painted the air tank but I still have to uncover the door sills and do it there also! Loved the video👍😀

A good tip is to add some Freelander 2 wheel arch rubber trims to the exposed lip following a huge dollop of grease 😊

Sam one thing I think you have missed is that on the outside of the sill panels there are numerous 20 mm odd plastic bungs you can take out and slather your sheep dip lol inside. I've got the dreaded tin worm in the ends of the sills and all round the wheel arches and along towards the rear of the car just above the plastic bumper on both sides. It pretty horrendous and there was no sign of it when I bought it just 13 months ago. It had been filled and blown over and I missed it. My fault and I'm paying for it now. I paid very good money for it and I know the dealer had got it repaired. Bastard! But caveat emptor and all that lol I paid good money because it is an Overfinch model with a full Burr Walnut interior and Alcantara dash that alone was £1500. I have the original Overfinch bill and on top of the £75 Grand the car was the Overfinch bill was nearly £23 grand! Ouch! It's a 2006 4.2 Supercharged and the engine and box are sweet as a nut and really goes like stink when I want it to. It's also on LPG so I get reasonable economy even if I get slightly heavy right footed lol but with LPG at around 80 pence a litre I can still afford to run it. It's probably cheaper to ride around in the car keeping warm and leaving the heating off indoors! I bought 2 gallons of Waxoyl and after rust conversion everywhere I can get to I will slather it inside and out with gay abandon. No ! Don't go there!

Great job and advice for any car worth preserving in tiptop condition

Thank you, as a discovery 3 owner this is equally helpful.

Love the L322's.

I discovered Lanoguard last year and what a fantastic product. Sprayed every part of the chassis on my Corvette, I now keep a bottle with my tools and ever time I do some work on any of our cars I give all the metal areas where I have been working a quick spray for added protection.

Just a few points, the sills are multi-layered, it's worth taking out some of the plastic bungs and injecting in there. Also there are bungs inside the rear wheel arches that let you inject into the wheel arch edges where they rust out from. You can also inject form inside the boot by removing the side covers. The jacking points are removable and worth a quick spray inside. I haven't tried Lanoguard and used a well known wax product slightly thinned with white spirit.

Definitely going to get some of those products for my Focus and now I know how much I will need cheers Sam 👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Looks great defo going to get some Lanogaurd for my 2009 Shogun. Great video once again..

Great job 👏👍 I feel inspired to do my Range Rover but I’ll have to wait for dryer conditions as don’t have the luxury of a workshop. Thanks for the video. 🙏

Awesome video Sam! Looking forward to whatever is next mate, take care, Jim.

Great job, very thorough. Just finished doing similar to my L319. Really enjoyed the effort to show all stages of what you did.

Hello Again. Sam I think you are very lucky, your L322 looks really good and almost rust free. Regards. RichardA.

Hi Sam, you have solid Range Rover. Even with the mileage. Great buy. I have a td6 l322 for now. I will get another tdv8. I have to weld up the sills. The jacking point has rusted. I will git it re-strengthened for the test. It will be safe to jack up on the back corner when done.

thanks Sam, I need to do this on mine!!

Wish mine was that good. My 02 Td6 failed its NCT just before Christmas due to excessive corrosion on the rear subframe. It was rotted out on the front most point where it mounts to the body. Subframe swap required. Car is abandoned in the yard while I decide whether to scrap it or have a go at saving it. Motivation is low at the moment.

Good advice, I have a venerable 2002 year L322 (3.0 TD6) which I keep in Latvia, and it had accumulated a fair bit of rust underneath. After a mechanic commented on it, about 5 or 6 years ago I started giving it anti rust treatment each year. Well, not me personally… I took it to my local branch of “KROWN,” a Canadian company which knows about the ravages of harsh weather & salt on roads. The initial treatment was very comprehensive; after removing any loose surface rust they steam cleaned it, and then applied their “T40” compound to every nook and cranny. They even drilled tiny holes in inaccessible cavities including doors, and pumped it in through a tube. They also did the engine bay & spare wheel compartment. T40 is an all in one product that converts existing rust into an inert compound and simultaneously leaves a waxy oil-like layer which sticks to the surface to prevent further rust. The beauty of it is its penetrative qualities, if applied correctly it continues to seep its way into the most inaccessible areas in the following hours & days. Since then, I have it redone every year, alternating between a “refresher” treatment and the full original treatment. I try to do it each Spring because it’s an opportunity for the steam clean to remove any winter salt deposits, although with the treated surfaces they not really going to be able attack the metal. Now I have the satisfaction of a Range Rover that is rust free, more than can be said for most Range Rovers half its age. I still get comments from the mechanic, but now it’s more like “this is the cleanest example I’ve ever seen for its age!”

Sam another great video i use a similar rust neutraliser product ie aquasteel on my 71 Rover P6 3500 and i also used it on my narrowboat hull brilliant stuff i have bought some lanoguard but am yet to apply that keep up the good work its much appreciated. ;-)

Great job Sam, you should be well set for a while quite a satisfing job. Did mine about 18months ago rear aches out and used Aquasteel seemed to do similar turning rust to black 👍 then Lanoguard over the top, 6months ago I had side sections off and had same amount of dirt fall out! Rust hadn't started to set in so cleaned and Lanoguard. Touched up a few areas with black paint. This summer will go over again with Lanoguard. Painted rear exhaust box too as wasnt looking great. The front section of the rear arch I painted as well and then fitted weather strip to it and bought new strip for the rear section as existing was not in great condition. MOT guy always comments about condition of underside compared with others he sees👍 keep it up. Looking forward to your next one! Cheers

Totally agree, both these product ma are excellent, i use them on all my stuff 👍

Have you thought about the Freelander sill rubber mod to cover the part that the engineers carefully left unprotected so the water can seep into the sill and rust it?

Super usefull, thank you

Thanks for this video Sam, I might ask somebody to do that to my 18 year old L322 mk3 td6 HSE (3.0 litre straight 6 diesel BMW M57 variant); Unfortunately I'm not well enough to do it myself. I've started practically rebuilding it already (I'm lucky enough to have a friend who does all the work on it for me & cheaper than a garage) & only bought it last Good Friday, so may as well cure any rust & stop it getting worse 🤔 What i don't understand is, if a vehicle manufacturer is producing & selling a vehicle in the £70k to £100k price point, when new, why don't they galvenise the ladder chassis & parts that are known to rust, especially as it's a 4x4 (AWD) & on the V5 Log book i believe, & certainly whenever i look it up online for parts, mine is classed as a diesel off road vehicle, so they know it's going to rust & galvanising the chassis & various panels & parts underneath would've been a good thing, surely 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️

Another good idea is to get hold of freelander arch protecter and fix to lip on rear wing to join up with the bit Land rover did cover. You have to trim to size but when I did mine I packed the back of the return with some lano grease I bought back from NZ with me 8 years ago . I fixed the trim and packed more lano grease to stop any build up of rust causing mud and road grime. The arch protector stops the stone chips that the unprotected arch is prone to.

I always remove the wheels to get better access to the undercarriage. I’ve always used engine oil thinned out a bit seems to work as I’ve never had any rust problems.

Good job done, don’t suffer quite as bad with corrosion here in France (don’t use salt on roads), but I might check mine out at some point to be sure. 👍

Must be really satisfying to know that’s done. Great video 👍

Nice work, did you do the front arches too?

thanks, I'm on it!

Could you do a review of the cooper at3s as would like to hear how you get on with them

Great work Sam, were the brake discs ok? Just wondering about overspray?

Any thoughts on doing an in depth detailing video of the L322 Sam? Would be great to see how it would come up.

Lovely job 🚘🚙🚗👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Hi Sam great video,just wondering which diagnostics tool would you recommend for a 2011 4.4tdv8 as I do all my own maintenance thanks Matt

Did you check your brake line running front to rear as we've had plenty rot through near the rear Subframe and need replacing which isn't a nice job to fix insitu!!!

nice one

I'd really advise top coating any rust converter with paint, then the rust treatment you applied. As a Part 2 for rust prevention on an L322 and stopping common rust area, I'd look at rear quarter panel behind the wheel area and above the bumper . You often see rust here on older cars and it rusts from the inside out. You need to look in the fuse box and radio gear areas and remove the boot vent boxes.

John Rooth or Roothy, the Australian living legend really likes that stuff.

Nicely done. I find removing wheel arch liners a pain.

Sam, Have you ever looked into replacing the cameras on this car? I have two with chipped/broken lenses on the front bumpers and I've been looking for ways to replace them more cheaply. Wondering if you've had any luck?

Lanoguard sticks amazingly well, much better than wax products. It also doesn't attract dirt and leave you filthy every time you go near the vehicle 😀 The only time I use wax based products now is inside closed sections. The people who make it are also very helpful and supportive.

How is the lanoguard holding up nearly a year on?

is that rust converter suitable for steel that will be immersed in fresh water, e.g., a dock?

I was going to do this to my L322 and your video was timely, but unfortunately mine doesn’t have any rust… I mean none at all, all subframes, exhaust, body, sills, rear arches and hatch are like new, just clean shiny paint and fasteners Luckily I don’t live in rust belt, but live in Southern Spain 😇

Too late for my 2006 l322 TDv8 it needs welding up. I wish I had done this treatment years ago.

i tried the lanogaurd last year and yesterday i had a look at wheel arches and have to say it was crap and last year i did a good job on doing it, so yesterday sand back rust converter and used 2 pack marine paint and then underseal the hole lot, today right side to to,must say very disappointed lanogarurd, the best stuff i have ever used was rust bullet that works well

Sam do you have a garage in London?

normally a Range Rover leaks is much that it will protect it that way !

Feel like I would dry ice the all under then seal

What tires are they on your vogue

They rust at the tie rod mount at the rear subframe

rear jack points are tragic on these ,,, I make a lot of money repairing these , its not a cheap job as its all time , you should do a follow up video and see how it looks one year on. I use acf 50 and give a 3 year warranty on my repairs.

I'm a little confused Sam. Nothing new there! Isn't the Neutrarust supposed to be a rust convertor AND primer? Just wondering why you didn't paint the metal before applying the Lanoguard. Apologies if you explained why in the video and I missed it. Excellent video as always though. You are getting more professional with each one.

Are you not supposed to leave the rust on for the converter to react to on clean steel surely it’s not doing anything

Ironically, here in the south USA cars don't rust like this.

that'll last forever now

L I K E 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍💯💥 💯 💥💯🤩 🤩 🤩🤩

A 2011 car with rust is appalling why can't jlr get galvanising their vehicles right I've seen cheap Peugeot at 20years old with not a spot of corrosion on it.??? BTW good job years ago cars got ziebarted as a rust treatment in the 70s.

Why are vehicles as new as this rusting? 🤔🤨

Rust converters dont work. Anybody wants any evidence of it...mail me. Ill send pics of my 110 chassis...ruined.. And 84 rangerover...chassis...luckily cos its really rare, i only did back crossmember...ruined.. That stuff keeps chewing away, especially when coated with paint. You end up with crocodile skin bubbles..and under every one of them, a massive hole... Blast it, needle gun it..back to steel, if there is any, ..if there isn't, no point in hiding your head in the sand, using RUST CONVERTER...weld it up...then coat appropriately...