Sanforized vs Unsanforized vs Raw Jeans | Is One Really Better?

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Stridewise

Stridewise

Күн бұрын

Full article: stridewise.com/sanforized-vs-...
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Want to have a really, crazily in-depth understanding of denim? Then Mohsin Sajid is the man to help. A historian, professor, designer, videographer, and consultant on everything related to the most popular pants on earth, Mohsin was gracious enough to host me and explain some of the trickier terms floating around selvedge land.
00:00 Who is Mohsin Sajid?
00:30 What is sanforized denim?
01:40 Skewing and sanforizing
02:05 What is the sanforization process?
03:38 Different kinds of sanforization
04:48 Sanforized vs washing vs raw
06:27 Why choose unsanforized denim?
07:45 A look at Real McCoy's leg twist
09:30 Unsanforized jeans and sizing
10:57 Wrapping up
#selvedgedenim #heritagefashion #rawdenim

Пікірлер: 77
@NakedandFamousDenim
@NakedandFamousDenim 2 жыл бұрын
Great to see you linked up with Moshin, he is truly one of the gems of the denim world!
@SSDD_NYC
@SSDD_NYC Жыл бұрын
Moshin was the reason I fell in love with denim and eventually found and fell in love with N&F!
@ericiidx
@ericiidx Жыл бұрын
I still consider "one wash" models of jeans to be raw in the stylistic sense, in the same way that my raw denim doesn't become "un-raw" the first time I personally wash them. A number of brands I'm familiar with will put the jeans through a hot wash and hang them to dry, creases/wrinkles and all, with no extra processing. I think it's a great choice for someone wanting to buy a pair of otherwise-unsanforized jeans but not wanting to work out the shrinkage, whether it's their first pair or their fiftieth.
@arielguzman9336
@arielguzman9336 Ай бұрын
Weird how your suppose to buy them raw to your size and never wash or get them big and immediately soak or else they don’t fit
@edf2953
@edf2953 2 жыл бұрын
Very interesting video Nick. I had no idea what the difference is between sanforized vs. unsanforized Jeans. I really like the way you managed the interview to keep everything flowing and to explain to us the differences in the processes. Good job…Ed
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 жыл бұрын
Would love to see a future video on the OVERDYE process. Been around forever but still mysterious
@Phlegm_Thrower
@Phlegm_Thrower 2 жыл бұрын
Oooooooh... I've always wondered why some of my clothings have twisted seams. I thought they might've cut it wrong or something. lol You learn something new everyday.
@lukehendrickson3669
@lukehendrickson3669 2 жыл бұрын
I'm all about sanforized denim (both my IH-634-XHS and IH-634S) and some is even one-washed (IH-634S). Less hassle and more enjoyment IMO.
@1979augistine
@1979augistine 2 жыл бұрын
Yes , yes and yes I just took up sewing leather and denim and tried making a shirt and wow it definitely has my interest. This is awesome to see ,huge thanks for the awesome video !
@brunonjezic6208
@brunonjezic6208 2 жыл бұрын
Perfect. Just a video i needed to understand better this stuff
@nrttra007
@nrttra007 Жыл бұрын
Great video. Very informative
@MrNegroni
@MrNegroni 2 жыл бұрын
Great video, really interesting.
@davidmun1601
@davidmun1601 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Very educational.
@brunonjezic6208
@brunonjezic6208 2 жыл бұрын
I hope there will be part 2 with him. He could make so much stuff clearer for the world of denim. Im still wondering what is starch for in the denim and is it good or not. How does it influence "the rawnes" of things
@uncannyfox
@uncannyfox 2 жыл бұрын
From what I understand, the starch is simply there to make the fabric easier to work with when they are making the jeans. But then again, I remember my Grandpa starching all of his trousers right before he had my Grandma iron them, so maybe there's something more to it.
@RLSteffler
@RLSteffler 6 ай бұрын
Starch gives structure to a fabric, that's why you would spray trousers before pressing them, to help them hold a crisp crease down the leg. It increases the stiffness so with denim most people would find it less comfortable, but that creates more creasing which is great for cool fades! To get rid of most of the starch you can do a lukewarm soak, or if you like more fades you can even respray them with starch after each wash.
@naughtmeinam4603
@naughtmeinam4603 2 жыл бұрын
Man, after that explanation and lack thereof, I think I'll be steering clear of unsanforized forever
@hungryalien
@hungryalien Жыл бұрын
haha but its something that all denimheads should experience at least once hehe
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 жыл бұрын
What I was taught. Expect dimensions to shrink by about 3% if the jeans are untreated. Up to 1% if it preshrunk
@justinschmidtke9412
@justinschmidtke9412 2 жыл бұрын
Really had to squeeze the definition and description of sanforizing out of him. Thanks for not settling for the routine answer. I wonder why experts are always so reluctant to share it.
@ryancockrel6947
@ryancockrel6947 2 жыл бұрын
I think it's because it isn't just a single defined process. It's a family of slightly different processes that all aim to achieve the same end result of stabilizing the fabric before it is sewn into clothing. I believe that is what he was trying to communicate.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
I think we just saw the usual gap between academia and media - he's trained in the former, which is about describing topics in as much length as possible, but this video is the latter - media - which is about concise and simple definitions. It's normal for academics and journalists/media folk to have trouble getting on the same wavelength haha
@jonlouis2582
@jonlouis2582 2 жыл бұрын
@@Stridewise Wow, good answer.
@AliceBowie
@AliceBowie Жыл бұрын
I tried to get into selvage 20 years ago. I did everything people told me. Even soaking them in warm water first day, and sleeping in them wet. They always shrunk into shorts and stained my legs blue. Eventually, I met a morroccan tailor who knew the real way to get denim that fit.
@richyclubsport5155
@richyclubsport5155 Жыл бұрын
Learnt from bitter experience, sanforized is the best option, had to sell several expensive paris of denim's over the years on good old eBay, after soaking they shrunk. Breaking in a couple of pairs of new denims now, wearing alternative day's, Lee 101s, fantastic denim's and Iron Heart's 634 n in a 17 oz weight
@arielguzman9336
@arielguzman9336 Ай бұрын
Were they tight to begin with? I’m having trouble believing a simple soak would shrink em that much
@barrymitchell7732
@barrymitchell7732 2 жыл бұрын
Hello. I recently purchased a pair of White's perry mock toe. The problem is inside a flap folds down every time I put it on. I contacted them and they said I could send them back. But I purchased them to wear. I also explained several times that I never dad any problem with REDWINGS . Can you suggest what typ of glue to use on my new rubbish White's Boots?
@sf2explus184
@sf2explus184 Жыл бұрын
i have been through many raw sanforized and unsanforized. I have yet to see a single sanforized denim shrink more than 1cm if that. with unsanforized i have always lost between 2-3 inches in length and 1 inch in the waist which stretched back by 1-1.5 inches but soaked with warm water in the bath tub.
@Wilson_Kelly
@Wilson_Kelly 2 жыл бұрын
Nice music at the start
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
yeah it's stock music but it's my favorite stock music!!!
@aznlemonboy
@aznlemonboy 2 жыл бұрын
which brand/model for the denim jacket?
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
Mine is Oni's! I'd just gotten it from son of a stag sonofastag.com/collections/oni/products/oni-02527zr-20oz-secret-denim-jacket
@natewoods4566
@natewoods4566 Жыл бұрын
I get why people like the unsanforized look, but I can't imagine being so into it that I'm willing to take the risk of buying extremely expensive jeans without knowing how they will fit.
@fursanislamicclothing6962
@fursanislamicclothing6962 6 ай бұрын
If i WASH fabric / denim before sewing proces... Will it be sanforized denim?
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 жыл бұрын
I always go sanforizied or one-washed given the option. No time to shrink it like some geek
@kotymccallister5150
@kotymccallister5150 Жыл бұрын
You'll get a better fit shrinking them
@Christian_Clothier
@Christian_Clothier Жыл бұрын
How much is slightly bigger??
@fugehdehyou
@fugehdehyou 8 ай бұрын
Sanforized seems way easier tbh imagine you wash it and suddenly after Christmas your favourite jeans don’t fit. The idea of consistency is more appealing tbh
@muhammadaliclay8976
@muhammadaliclay8976 2 жыл бұрын
mohsin bhai zindabad
@Lgirtfhdzxfft
@Lgirtfhdzxfft 2 жыл бұрын
Why Nick seems so frustrated? 😂
@CC-kj4yc
@CC-kj4yc Жыл бұрын
What do you think of stretch jeans?
@Abdul-Amburadul
@Abdul-Amburadul Жыл бұрын
💩
@And-zo8jn
@And-zo8jn 2 жыл бұрын
Which jeans jacket are you wearing?
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
Oni secret! 20oz, this one www.sonofastag.com/collections/oni/products/oni-02527zr-20oz-secret-denim-jacket
@hydroaegis6658
@hydroaegis6658 2 жыл бұрын
Jeanheads will eventually just be buying bolts of fabric lmao.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
hahahah
@kit2770
@kit2770 2 жыл бұрын
I thought he said "sanfordized". I assumed we were talking about old episodes of "Sanford and Son". 📺
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
That's exactly what we were talking about Kit
@javiervallin488
@javiervallin488 Жыл бұрын
Bahahahaha 😂
@wtfmrb293
@wtfmrb293 Жыл бұрын
Haha stride. You look like me when having a math test lol epic
@kfung4
@kfung4 2 жыл бұрын
Great v
@alexsherel3344
@alexsherel3344 9 ай бұрын
This made everything sooooo clear…lol Jokes aside. Thanks
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 9 ай бұрын
Didn’t it!?!
@alexsherel3344
@alexsherel3344 9 ай бұрын
@@Stridewise jokes aside…yes, and the reason I watched this so soon after upload was, I just bought 2 pair of GS Pennys, 1 Loden suede, one CXL #8 so now im looking for jeans for going out. This helps. Now I have my starting point. Just sucks having to sift through vids and websites to find what I want at my price point. But just fyi, thanks. I’ve actually updated my wardrobe with those GS, TBC captains and vanguards, and some hackberry chinos. Your work is appreciated sooo much.
@colmcgillveray1010
@colmcgillveray1010 2 жыл бұрын
I have a pair of Sugar Canes 1946 with a fierce leg twist.
@L.C.Sweeney
@L.C.Sweeney 2 жыл бұрын
Less likely isn't a synonym of less.
@Hyytekk
@Hyytekk 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting. But while Moshin might be infinitely knowledgeable as you stated, he's not a good communicator. Kudos to you, Nick, for clarifying and sorting out the facts. You repeatedly asked him about the actual process and method, but he kept repeating generic generalities. "They have different methods...." conveys nothing. You clarified, it's primarily by heat and moisture. Whew. Like pulling teeth. Then you logically point out the gamble and need to buy a garment that is larger to allow for that shrinkage if unsanforized. He says, well, slightly larger but just leave the top button undone if it no longer closes! What?! He says earlier that some people get mad if their jeans shrink 3 inches when you wash them. Really? I'm one of those weird people that like to wear clothes that actually fit without fear of needing to donate them to a doll collector due to shrinkage. So thanks for parsing out the actual facts, as you always succinctly do. (Loved your pained facial expression at 7:35!)
@Cooper024
@Cooper024 2 жыл бұрын
100%
@ynysvon
@ynysvon Жыл бұрын
I do think that there is a bit of snobbery here. If the jeans look good, fit well, and are good quality, does it matter if the denim is sanforized or unsanforized.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Жыл бұрын
it's less snobbery and more hobbyism. some people find it interesting, some don't! i don't think anyone's denigrating cheaper jeans by saying they like historical recreations or something
@ynysvon
@ynysvon Жыл бұрын
@Stridewise Yes, I get it. Some people like going through the whole shrink to fit rituals. It is hard to judge with raw, unshrunk jeans one size or two sizes up. The results can be disappointing sometimes and costly, so now I mainly buy Iron Heart, so I know the fit I'm getting.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Жыл бұрын
@@ynysvon smart! my first pair was unsanforized, studio dartisan, i was lucky they shrunk to a good fit they're one of my favorite pairs. haven't done it since though!
@eachday9538
@eachday9538 2 жыл бұрын
That's an unsanforized accent you got going there
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 жыл бұрын
I love the niche insults I get on my channel
@eachday9538
@eachday9538 2 жыл бұрын
@@Stridewise :-)
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting so sanforized can still be raw if it wasn’t washed. But one wash is no longer raw.
@sf2explus184
@sf2explus184 Жыл бұрын
never buy unsanforized denim snug in the waist it should be comfortable without being loose. legnth buy 4 inches longer than you need.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Жыл бұрын
Yup that's how I went with my studio dartisans
@gdaddy6922
@gdaddy6922 2 жыл бұрын
Wait, you guys are washing your jeans?
@hungryalien
@hungryalien Жыл бұрын
yes its actually good for the fabric and your relationship with your partner/wife hehe
@thomaspaulson5284
@thomaspaulson5284 Жыл бұрын
Jeans is pants
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Жыл бұрын
right on, sing it, sister
@jesse8737
@jesse8737 Жыл бұрын
No difference. Sanforized will still shrink 1-3% for up to 4 washes after the factory “one wash” which means at best you get 3% shrinkage and at worst 9%. Unsanforised will shrink 10%. It seems whether the jeans fit you or not is dependant on luck and why would you wanna drop 400 bucks on luck?
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