you have such a gentle way about you Sarah, you are very easy to listen to. very informative. thank you xx

It’s so nice to watch an actually expert on a subject on KZfaq. Thank you for all of your expertise!

This was the most helpful tutorial I've found! I've watched so many but yours is the only to explain how to tighten the fabric and also how to install the fabric for tautness from the beginning! I also love that you showed frames I've never even seen before. On the hunt for better quality hoops and frames now!

The trick with the q snap type of frames is to cut some rectangles of waste fabric to place under the side clamps. These need to be cut so that there is about an inch of fabric showing after you place the clamp in place. Then when you need to take the clamp off you can pull each side of the waste fabric, and the clamp pops off. I use these frames a lot. When the side clamps get a bit loose after much use place them in hot water, and that makes them clamp like new again. They can also be replaced without buying a whole new frame again. Hope this helps.

I have a spring hoop and I’ve always used it with the spring on top… I never realized I was using it wrong!! Thanks for all the great information, Sarah!!

I use the spring frames when I do free-motion stitching on my sewing machine, I drop the feed dogs place the fabric in the frame slide the frame under the foot and guide the fabric with the handle of the hoop.

Another trick for gripping difficult things is the no-slip shelf and drawer liner. I use it for so many things. It comes in a roll, it's inexpensive, you can cut it the size you need, and it helps to grip anything. I use it for jar lids, canisters, and things like the Qsnap. Grip is everything when it comes to removing tight-fitting items.

For the snap frame, I was taught that you pop them on but slide them off, hope that helps!😊

I got some Q-snap frames to use for my counted cross stitch on Aida fabric, and a stand that can hold it, pretty good, and I can put the stand on a chair so that I can do my needlework standing up, which is a nice change from all that sitting while working. I’m now working on learning to do embroidery, and I am going to embroider some of my clothes,. Sarah is an excellent teacher and the videos are excellent for showing what she is doing. Thank you so much! 🙏🏻

Thanks!

I have a smallish spring hoop and I will only use it from now on, they hold my work very tightly, no problem with the gap.

I have had a needle in my hand for one thing or another since I was a small child. Mom taught all us girls to both sew and embroider; my sisters and I still use these skills. It's been a great source of comfort and joy through my life even now in retirement. I really enjoyed the in-depth description and usage of each type of frame. I find it useful to review the basics from time to time because I always learn some new thing and it's good to keep up on the latest. My favorite hoop that I use is an ancient (had since childhood) metal hoop that self-adjusts via a coil spring. That spring hoop does have its drawback because it does loosen up while I stitch so it's fine for working on Aida cloth but for other ground cloth or working fancier stitches, I'm turning more and more to good wood hoops that tighten with a screw. I don't have a roller bar frame or a slate frame but I could get my son to make what I want. (He never knows what gift to get me for occasions so this would good.) PS Based on this excellent video, I subscribed. I'm looking forward to going through more on your channel.

Thank you Sarah. There certainly are a lot of options available embroidery frames.

I like using qsnap frame. The aida is taut even though the corners are not under clamps. Mainly i like the fat frame for more comfortable hand holding.

Spring frame is for machine embroidery (Madeira does them), and it is to ensure the same tension within whole fabric as you snip the fabric every time you move place (like patchwork). Otherwise I swear by barrel hoop or proper tambour embroidery frame (best tension and easy to roll around and work from both sides)

Thank you this was so helpful now I have seen which one will work best for the project I am stitching.

Thank you for the mobility advice Sarah.

Just discovered your channel, so thank you for sure,. Wanting to learn to sew started when I was very young . My Mother and her relations never cared about it, but my Father's family their were knitters, crocheters, embroidery talents. Found out my great grandfather, on my Father's side was a cobbler, here in Oklahoma, USA. He would travel around small towns working repairing boots, shoes, saddles, reins,etc. So I believe some of us who sew, not only enjoy doing so but have a calling in our DNA to do so. Just find it all very interesting. Thank you again.

Great information, thank you for sharing.

I use the snap frames a lot. Slide the pieces that snap on, to left or right, to remove them and push or 'snap' them on to put in place. I also use a piece of felt to provide extra protection when I am putting the snaps on an area i have already stitched. Great video as always Sarah. Thank you!

So helpful. Thank you so much. 😊

What an absolutely lovely human being you are Sarah! I love your videos, for I am self-taught and know so little on my own. Thank you so much for all you do! I truly appreciate your work!

Loved the video. I’ve used the plastic tubular ones for years, but mine are R & R Universal ones. I also love no sew ones, all sizes. I don’t use sticky tape, seen the mess it makes if left for years. I sew twill binding tape to my fabric & then staple that to the frame. Nice soft wood so works well for me.

Encantan todos los bastidores, ahora con Internet puedes adquirir cualquier modelo y no limitarte ❤❤❤

your videos are wonderful- easy to understand, and so informative! Thank you so much!

The plastic hoops are okay as long as you release the tension while not working. They mark the fabric worse than the wooden hoop.

There is another type of frame that you did not cover but I have to say it's a little unusual because it’s a very ancient type of frame called an upholstered frame. It’s four pieces of wood put together with mitered joints a bit like a picture frame but then the wood is upholstered with fabric and stuffing. The work is then placed over the frame and pinned to a posted top of the frame. I first came across it in a book on crewelwork. I know this information is pretty relevant to the video you are presenting but I felt it important to mention it as it is a frame type I have found quite useful from time to time. From what I understand it’s a type of frame that dates back to mediaeval times but the downside is you have two either making yourself or hope you can find somebody handy who can make one for you, If you don’t have the skills yourself. All the best John

I find the plastic spring hoop handy for travelling & sit & stitch . Also the plastic with the lip is good for punch needle work, but must unhook when not actively working on the project .😊

Excellent video, thank you Sarah 👍

Thankyou again Sarah for a very helpful informative video to help me with my new hobby.

I have all kind of hoops big and small but i got tired of holding a hoop. I just bought a wood table scroll and hoop stand. Omg I really love embroidering using it; makes a world of difference. I have a few large cross stitching kits that using a scroll frame is vital.

Regarding the pvc snap frame, you need to slide the snap part in the same direction as the pipe under the fabric to take the fabric off. In the video you tried to pull it off, and yes that is hard to do.

On the snap frame, I slide the clamps off. Sometimes I have to hold the fabric on one side before sliding the clamp off. I have a pattern that's a little larger, and have have the size clamp that fits it, but like you said, the corners aren't so tight. What works for me and the size I'm working with is that I put the larger clamp off to one side, and have a smaller clamp that I put next to it. I know that wouldn't work for every size project though. The project I'm working on has a lot of beading so the larger snap frame works well.

I was eating cereal while watching this and when you said "so these hopps have actially been bound" I distinctly heard "banned" instead snd was very, VERY confused for a solid minute there! 😂

Great information! Thanks so much.

Sarah, the pink frame with the spring is only for machine embroidery. They work very well for that.

Very informational. I learned a lot today. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge regarding hoops. Stay safe ❤️

I love basic stretcher bars. I initially bought them because I try to use natural materials when possible, but I just love how versatile they are. It's worth mentioning, too, that you can also buy tack pushers. It took me too many sore thumbs to discover them, so I always try to mention their existence any time it comes up. Mine is wood and steel and also came with a much sturdier remover than the ones the tacks came with. I also love that I can put a magnet on the tacks for my needle. I really only use hoops for things that are intended to live in one forever. I do need to get my hands on a decent size scroll frame, though. there are a couple big projects I won't be able to start until I do.

I've never seen a spring frame before. I'm glad you demonstrated how to use it because I couldn't imagine it in my head. It's basically backwards from the regular hoops; you put the fabric over the outer hoop and then the inner hoop goes "on top". The white plastic snap frames are too loose for my tastes. (At least the ones I have) After I have stitched on it for a bit it loosens and I find myself having to re-tighten the fabric over and over. I might try to wrap some bias tape around the frame. I don't know if it will work but it's worth a try. And to remove the clamps, I slide it off the ends/sides. A word of caution for the plastic ones (particularly the square ones, I haven't tried the circle) you need to have a thick/strong fabric or else the fabric can tear because the grip is actually too good! I kind of want one of those little roller ones so I can do a really long project. Maybe in the future.

Hi Sarah. Thank you for a wonderful year of tutorials. I am not a very good embroidery but I go to classes with a wonderful teacher here in Victoria. Australia and really enjoy what I do Wishing you a very merry Christmas and look forward to next year 💕💕🥰🥰🇦🇺🇦🇺🐨🐨🦘🦘

I had gotten a square magnetic frame that I thought, for sure, would hold the fabric taut. We the magnets are not strong enough to hold it. As much as I hate the round hoop, I am still using the hoop instead of the magnetic frame. I need to also need to have both hands free. I do a lot of French Knots.

The bar frame and the pink spring one too looked really good as with my Dyspraxia hand and eye co ordination as the wooden hoops can prove difficult for me at times. Thank you for this video very interesting as can see how Im using not the best quality wooden ones as mine are thin bars at the top that wont be stable over time 😀❤️

Very good ❤️❤️❤️❤️

Thank you for another great video Sarah 🙂

I actually prefer the snap frames. I put extra fabric pieces between the fabric and the clamps to protect the fabric (and if needed the stitches, too). And I slide the clamps to the side to get them off. I don't do gold work, though, I'm more a cross stitcher (and blackwork, easy embroidery stitches, and so on).

Thanks for explanation! I've been thinking about a slate frame but worried about the trestle. Having two tables is a great idea. And there's more surface for stuff! Currently working on the square stretcher frame with pins I bought from you for a goldwork project. I love it.

I used the Q-Snap frames when they first came out. I guess I used them for six months before I found my right hand (I’m left handed) was hurting around the palm to my thumb. I stopped for a week and it stopped hurting. I waited a month, then tried them again. Same thing. I’m definitely back to hoops. Very interesting video, thank you🥰

Thank you for your knowledge. I am going to be embroidering on velvet ribbon which is about 3/4" to 1" wide. What do you suggest for such a thing? I'm worried that the frame will crush the velvet, but how do I keep the ribbon taut to easily embroider it? Thanks in advance, Michelle

Are stretcher bar frames for embroidery the same ones used for painting on canvas? I can only find stretcher frames in the section of my craft store for painting.

please disregard my previous question. I just saw the video! Thank you!

Do you recommend taking work out frame when not working on it?

Why do you use a backing fabric? (19:15 in the video)

Hey, this is my first time getting into embroidery. Does the intended embroidery image need to be fully Contained within the frame or hoop? Or can I work with a small frame or hoop in sections? Thank you

The snap frames are not my favorite because of what you said with the corners and the snaps can get really loose and not hold the fabric well.

Where did you get that tiny roller frame??? My daughter wants me to make a piece to hang in her house in a very specific spot that's 4 inches wide by about 6 feet long! I thought I'd have to do it in sections. I have never seen anything that size and it'd be absolutely perfect!!!

Do you find it's difficult to maintain good posture with a slate frame on trestles/table ends? I always see photos of people hunched over the frame (which would definitely be me since my eyes are not that great!) and it just looks like a recipe for disaster for the back and neck.

Why use 2 pieces of fabric?

I’ve used this it’s not comfortable

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!