Tool can also be purchased on Amazon here amzn.to/2EcBZRe

Retired journeyman carpenter here. Years ago, on a job site, the sharpening service was unable to come due to truck problems. We had a tech who decided to sharpen the blade himself, sharpening each tooth carefully. The blade didn't cut afterwards. So one of the carpenter's tried it, same result. I asked them to give me 15 minutes with the blade. It cut perfectly when I was done. The focus is NOT on each tooth, it is on the PERFECT centricity of the blade. Your individual teeth can be as sharp as can be, but if your blade is not circular, you'll be cutting with only one tooth; the highest one.

This was mentioned yesterday. "The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener", and at a tight angle to the blade tooth. When it clicks in the blade, it should not be able to move back wards at all. Used this clicker as a jam tool to aim, and lock your blade for every tooth. Yes, it was also too close to the sharpener and that was moving it over every time you moved the sharpener forward. I also agree every other cutting tooth should be at a opposite angle, to remove your cut out of the way.

Use a Red Felt Tip marker to mark your first tooth...it helps you to know where you started and how m any more teeth you need to sharpen..

Working in a professional cabinet shop, I was tasked with getting our blades sharpened on a regular basis. We had a man that was a professional blade sharpener/repairer. He not only did our saw blades, but he also did our drill bits and router bits, and any other cutting tool we had. This saved the company tens of thousands of dollars a year. As new blades and bits were quite expensive, having our old ones sharpened was the smart thing to do. As I had a home shop also, our company allowed me to include my own blades with theirs to be sharpened. This is because I provided a service to my bosses and the CEO with my own skills building things they needed. There was a mutual respect between us that you rarely see in business.

Yes definite learning curve. I've had the same one for 3 or 4 years. All the adjusters on this unit are really too imprecise. Here's the trick. Set the bade with the black handle pulled all the way in towards you -- don't touch it again. Wear leather gloves! Now what you do is free hand all the carbide sharpening. I set the blade around 10 degrees bevel and sharpen every other tooth, once complete I reset the bevel for the blade around 10 degrees opposite pitch. I practiced on a few and within an hour I was whizzing through em. Has saved me probably a $1000 or more in new purchases and sending them out for re-sharpening.

I own a professional sharpening center and witnessed many accidents when people run dull blades. If your location doesn't offer a sharpening service this machine will help . Thanks for sharing 👍

Just noticed the blade shroud catching on ratchet post when you bring blade forward to trim, move ratchet post away, should sort out alignment.

I like mine . Works real good. Take your time , figure it out , sharpens blades very well. I've even bought blades at junk stores garage sales and such. And brought them back to life.

Just by cleaning the gunk off the blade improves the cut a LOT, I was actually amazed how much improves, I do it just with a simple file, not sure if you can recover a blade but you definitely improve the cut by doing some maintenance to it.

I have one. Took the cover off and use it as a mini bench grinder for small shit like chisels etc. I use it at least every other day for one thing or another thats other than its intended use. I'm surprised it's become so handy.

I admire your enthusiasm and perseverance and you handle frustration very calmly. It clearly doesn't work the way it should, just like the Chain Saw Sharpener that now sits idle in my shed. The difference between handyman and commercial is 10 times the price. The concept is good but the execution falls well short. Like other cheap stuff though, (eg; the Harbor Freight Sand Blast Cabinet) there is some good info out there on how to modify this unit to make it work. Out of box is always a gamble but it is a cheap way to buy the things needed to make something half decent if you are inclined and have the ability. I think I'll put the US $59 towards a new blade. Thanks for sharing. Edit: After just watching a few other videos of this product it is clear you weren't using it correctly. You don't put the stop pawl in the gully behind each tooth but into the actual tooth gully

Lol, my Dad used to make "let" me sharpen his saw blades with a file... took forever but I learned a valuable skill!

I've had one of those for 4 years evidently your blades are square cut ,the ones I have because of the curf I have to set the motor and 10 degree angle both directions for opposing teeth

I have one of those and it works awesome. I also modified it to sharpen 15" planer blades with a vernier adjustment. Some day I may make a video and add it to my channel. Also you have to set the angle for every other tooth and then reset the angle for the ones you skipped.

Thanks to this video I just find out that I can use a grinder to do that. Taking my time one by one. Thanks for your time and effort in this video.

Hey , I am a retired Woodworker with over 25 years professional years behind me and over35 years of Woodworking as a hobby it sounds like you are grinding way more than you need to on Carbide tipped saw blades I like the machine set up you are using but maybe your wheel is too coarse or the blade needs to be readjusted usually I just basically dress the cutting face up as compared to grinding a brand new surface I actually have some Blades that are as old as the 1950s and were my Fathers those are just HSS not the preferred Carbide tipped I’ve even used 800grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a flat surface to make just a few passes onthe Carbide and that will give me many more good cuts on the blade

It's a great concept. I've designed and built my own sharpening tools for my shop, and am constantly asked to build more for friends, relatives, and coworkers. I've designed and built more tooling, workholding, locating, locking, fixturing, stuff that needs to be precise, accurate, repeatable - and due to 20% of my crew everywhere I've worked - and idiot resistant (because just as there is nothing completely bullet "proof" there is nothing completely idiot "proof" ... some idiots are just amazing). Blade sharpening, on blades meant to be resharpened, is so helpful, saves money, reduces scrap, and improves safety of blades in use. There are definitely improvements to be made to that thing. I would want to improve its rigidity, its locating and positive stop functions, and replace that crappy wheel. I would use a different abrasive, likely a superabrasive, but not diamond. Diamond structurally is a crystalline lattice of carbon, carbide structurally is a crystalline lattice composed of significant percentages of carbon. Consider the phrase, "like dissolves like," and you'll see why. Diamond abrasives service life is significantly reduced by using it on carbide. I know I'll get responses of, " I use my diamond on my blah blah blah blah." Don't bother. I didn't post this as a conversation. It's a comment. Agree or disagree, I don't care, that's your choice. I helped design tooling, based on physics, chemistry, thermodynamics determined by actually DOING things again and again and again and measuring the outcome, then DOING things and again measuring the results. So this isn't guesswork or opinion I base my COMMENT on. If you want to use this and see how things work for you, great. If you want to argue because you use this in your shop and ... Great. Happy for you. Have a wonderful life. Time for me to go, I've got a 106" resaw blade that needs resharpening and fifteen minutes before bedtime, and I still need to shower. Take care, build something useful, and stay safe!

I've never sharpened circular saw blades, but with this said I've sharpened professionally for years. Suggestion: find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip (as the blades come from the factory). This will increase the overall sharpness of the finished product. A little bit like sharpening chain saw blades. Great video I learned what really needed. Thanks.

I have this sharpener. The stop arm is inconsistent so I just set the blade in place and rotated the tooth by hand against the sharpening blade. It's quicker and I just hold each one for a few seconds. Does just fine without the frustration.

I was a machinist with TRW Wendt-Sonis 16 years. When starting a sharpening set up, one would use a black marker to color area to be ground. Coming in slowly to the darkened area with the grinding wheel, you could tell when the ground area was at "clean up", as the color was erased and the carbide was shined, ready to be ground to tolerance

I might be able to do that with a die grinder, w/ a steady hand - very steady... I never throw them away, they just pile up so I have nothing to lose.

Have it..love it..paid for itself several times over...once you get it set up properly, works great..

Thanks for the review. I might get one of these. My hesitation is not about the cost, its about having another tool taking up space when I could MAYBE use my cut off tool and make a jig to hold the blade... maybe. Just FYI, I think you were cutting too much tooth material because the lock dog wasn't set up right... or if you prefer... I could keep my unasked for opinions to myself! Thanks again,

Interesting, I would have never thought to sharpen circular saw blades. Cool stuff Clint!

move your stop so it points straight into the tooth without flexing

Question for you: Do you think that premium blades (like Diablo) are worth the extra cost? I have Irwin (marathon, not marples) and they seem quite good. I replaced my Dewalt OEM that came with my table saw with an Irwin, but I don't know if there is much difference at all.

A buddy of mine has this tool, and we've sharpened a couple of my blades. They worked fine for my needs. I guess if you're a woodworker into fine, precision work this sharpener won't do it for you, but for my work they did great.

2:25 “I am not trying say i am cheap but I am cheap” 👈🤣😂😅

I have one of these HF sharpeners, and ran into the same problem with the spring dog, and tooth misalignment. I ended up taking the dog off, and rotating the blade in the opposite direction, and manually aligning the saw tooth. I also tightened up the spring load clamp holding the blade down until I could barely turn it. You need to check a blade closely and see if the face angle is the same for adjacent teeth. Knowing the tooth geometry before you start grinding on a blade is very important. The other thing is, bolt/clamp down the thing. It will work much, much better. It CAN save you some money, but what you save in price, you have to invest in making improvements to the thing.

I didn’t know any better. Bought the same red blade, put in on my Harbor Freight chop saw, and still cutting great. I do stand aside, but so far, so good.

My father has an old Fey Belsaw blade sharpener. He used to sharpen blades back in the 1980s for people. This was when many people still used the blades without the carbides, so he would sharpen and reset the teeth on those blades. One of the local blueberry farms would drop off their brush cutting blades.

your post with the spring loaded flipper stop nees moved to the outer slot on the base so themotor doesnt hit the post when moving it forwards. that is what is changing the location of the cut

the part that is spring loaded is hitting the grider cover. I dont think its suppose to do that thats why there is inconsistincy in the sharpening. some how you should be able to adjust the spring post over some so it wont hit into the grinding wheel guard

Another problem with a dull saw blade is the sticky resin that winds up splintering the edge of the wood being cut. Either heat it up in the sun or some other mild heat source and spray oven spray meant for warm ovens (not hot) let sit and clean off. Or you can use some acetone with a rag to clean the sides of the carbide tip and the side of the blade itself. I have found that this works but usually wont last as long a a brand new blade. Another thing is that if you havent hit metal or stones with the blade often the acetone is enough to get you through the job.

Thanks Clint, I appreciate your time and effort in helping us all. Stay safe my Friend 😊😁 Rodney

I take my blades and hand saws too my local lumber store. they send them out, get sharpened, pinned balanced and teeth off set again.

It would probably help if you at least clamp the thing to the table. Also you might get better with the setup after using it a few times.

Excellent! We go through a lot of blades in our Fabrication shop. I will present this to the owner. Awesome tutorial

i bought one about a year ago. i know it's Harbor Freight but it has sharpened my blades very sharp. It does a great job.

Your pawl to index with needs to index on the actual tooth of the blade, your indexing in a radius relief and sliding around. As a machinist who has sharpened many types of cutters on professional factory type equipment you always located from the cutting edge of an existing tooth for accuracy.

After sharpening blades for a living for 40 years I can assure you that this machine needs lots of work to make it usable

I have used this sharpener for several years. I adjust the grinder to match the original angle of the tooth then sharpen every other one then readjust for the other teeth. I do not use the dog. Instead I rotated the blade so I can move the grinder into the gullet and then rotate the blade and touch the carbide against the diamond wheel. This way you can get the teeth sharp without removing excess carbide. I use carbide blades on a brush cutter to cut cedar trees in my pasture and the blade hits the dirt a lot. This sharpener has helped me get more use out of each blade.

cool tool good for recycling and cost effective for DIY users who leave tools unused for long periods

You have to adjust the part to catch the next blade section. It was way to close to the sharpening wheel it was getting moved which was causing it to move

I have this unit. I took the cover off the wheel and adjust the blade so it is right. Ignore the clicker arm I then bring the wheel to the blade and move the blade into the wheel. It’s quicker and easier

This is a great tool for the shop. Since I bought one 4 years ago, I have not bought another blade. I sharpen 8", 10" and 12" blades with it. Working on a jig which will sharpen bandsaw blades.

Dear friend, watching your video reveals that the index mechanism on the right side of the device is coming into contact with the cover of the grinding disc cover! It flexes to the right every time you move the grinding wheel forward and thus causing the problem of it not properly indexing and aligning ;-)

About as precise as sewing an ant's ass shut with boxing gloves on

I think the spring action on the ratchet catch is so once the blade is in position you actually spin the blade into the stone instead of the stone into the blade.

I use to work in a place going this with old blade. Our blade where however 2" round. I would spend a day in the tool shop just sharping blades about twice a month.

I was just looking at one of these in the store today! The only blade sharpener in my area (that I know of) is retiring, plus he charged almost as much as the machine costs. So this sharpener is definitely on my list. The first blade you demonstrated looked like a skip-tooth design - maybe that requres a different technique?

Actually would think the clicker stop should be stopping against the next TOOTH instead of the rounded spacer gap. Would give a more positive stopping point. That would also move the stop support out away from the blade guard so it wouldn't bump when the blade comes in. Actually this is a good video, which along with the various comments would allow one to get it set up and used correctly. I'm betting it's not a bad piece of equipment once set up and I didn't even know they had this. So thanks. Floor laminate is a killer on saw blades.

I leave this under every video I watched, it helps the algorithm

You also got to clean the gum off the side of the blade. The dirty blade causes a lot of friction

I was just coming down here to the comments to help him. I can see that others have done the same… but I want to add to it, and hopefully it will help clarify things for those who are newer to the industry, or just newer to this specific style of blade, sharpening machine. You have to adjust this machine so that the stopper flips flat against the next carbide tooth! This type of sawblade has half of the carbide teeth that “normal” 40-60 tooth plywood blades would have so that it hits the gullet, where other blades would have another carbide tooth for the a ATDPAD to stop against. Also, you need to tighten the ATDPAD so that it doesn’t flex at all! It’s called a “Adjacent Tooth Dependent Precise Advancing Detent” for good reason. 😉👍🏼

There's a landfill in the back of my shed dedicated to thousands of those awesome blades that slowly become good for only a sharpening future that never came.

The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener

My favorite intro. Like ever! 🤘🏼

Been Sharpining for years a few suggestions. Foley-Belsaw rip off. It's called facing. You should rub the tooth face not cut it. Set your angle by just touching the face, to the wheel on the first tooth. look for the shine, adjust the angle. Never mind the feedpawl. Turn, tap the blade into it with gentle pressure with back and forward motion. You save your carbide and diamond wheels.

I usually run blades till the tips fall off or burn off. My chopsaw would love for me to purchase one of these 😝

I grind my old blades into throwing ninja stars for the kids to play with.

Looks like a good idea but needs to be clamped down to the table first and then adjust the stop to go in the cutting tooth. I think like some others you need to grind every other tooth to keep the angle correct. Will check these out to see if they can be used correctly. I have a blade collection that need this.

Not wanting to sound critical ...but I notice as in your first blade dressing example that the vertical index stop is pushing against the grinding wheel cover, while the blade is being introduced into the dressing wheel... setup is 80%. Old Tech Instructor .

LOL.."It's too noisy out here" says the guy running loud power tools... Good Video, thanks

After using that tool, I have a new nickname, "3 Finger Jack". :-)

Looks like a good start for a little bit of re-engineering. I would make a better stop to locate the teeth. That one looked a bit wobbly.

i love how EVERY video off this machine is done with the cheap blades. makes me want to buy 10 of them.

I use my " cut-off wheel " and sharpen them by hand but I must admit having everything stable would be cleaner. Maybe remake some of the machines cheaper parts .

Hate to be a stick in the mud here but I would recommend using a good quality respirator when sharpening carbide blades. Breathing carbide dust is extremely hazardous to your lungs. We had a guy at work whose only job was to sharpen all kinds of tools and blades. After years of doing so, he was no longer allowed to sharpen carbide toothed saw blades, bits or machinery knives because of the hazard. That probably wouldn't stop me from doing it at home with a respirator, though. It's a free country, for now, at least. Do what you think is right in this case, but be mindful of anyone who may enter your workspace and be exposed and keep making stuff!

Bought one from Harbor Freight about a year ago. Had a dozen or so blades of various sizes that was actually going to paint or stencil different pictures on for shop and yard art work or whatever. Then I seen this tool being demonstrated on You Tube. Thought damn for 60 bucks can't go wrong. What do I have to lose. Had some blades I spent 50, 60 bucks. For the money I made a good choice. The tool is sort of a pain in the butt to adjust and be able to tighten so it won't work loose. Once I figured the logistics on how to operate sharpened about a dozen blades in an hour or so. Just as sharp now as when new.

I think you should try flipping the blade over! By the way the spring loaded blade alignment piece is designed and the angle of the slot it goes into it move the pull handle to the left and flip the blade over. I would have tried it but it may be immediately obvious whether it will work or not!

Your Ratchet Post is too close the Cutting Head. The Shroud keeps Hitting it and pushing it out of alignment.

Great video. After you sharpen a blade,a quick coat of automotive paste wax will keep sap from making the blade grab, which is what burns

That saw is a beast......

I rented on walk behind saw cut hook with water hose on 4” concrete road. At first, I bought 2 Plastic casing saw blade from rental store, doesn’t cut on concrete real good and blades got short on me twice. No good!! I went back to rental store for more stronger saw blade, said doesn’t have any. I went to Lowes and found stronger blade called diamond cut. Wow on price, 1 diamond cut saw blade from Dewalt cost $100.00!! So I bought it and tried it. It’s really work greatly, of course used water hose hooked up to machine worked perfect. Saw blade never got low, I kept it in shop for next time in future. It’s best saw blade I’ve ever used. Recommend diamond cut to cut easily on concrete. 👌🏻

My local guy charges 25 cents/tooth. Its worth it for my finish blades, especially when it comes to preserving the bevel.

The indexing pin needs to be set up so that it indexes directly on the teeth.

Thanks for the video. I had the same problem getting that spring arm to work. I ended up not using it all at.

The rod on which the trap catch was fixed, was 'bending' (or moving in the base) when the grinding wheel was cutting the teeth. That might be part of the reason for all the adjustment problems? Interesting video, thanks.

To be honest I think blade manufacturers would like this. The tool seems inconsistent in its cutting

Growing up back in the 60s & 70s we had a neighbour who mad a good living with a saw sharpening business in his garage. Hand and circular a chain saws. But by the 90s the disposable society put him out of business. Shoe repair use to be a good trade too.

It appears you do not have the locater assembly set right . Every time you engage the sharpening disc the guard is pushing the locater post to the right. Not sure if you noticed this, you need to make an adjustment to get better results.

I don't know about tool, but the chuckle ya gave me about ,,,how many times can you mow your grass in one day....well worth hitting the subscribe button

Harbor Freight is constantly finding ways to get me into their store lol.

So having been trained in saw sharpening, you likely need to do every other tooth paying attention to the actual angle and then switch the angle to sharpen the opposite angle teeth!

Functional jig, but difficult to setup, imo. I simply secure angle grinder close to 90* on a table, hand sharpen every other point, flip it to do the rest. It's quick and sharp. When in a rush, attach blade to saw in reverse, press the grinder against the spinning blade, takes a few seconds for "good enough". Always wear eye protection and gloves.

I did notice that you were rotating the blade to adjust the contact point a lot. Question: Does the grinder create a burr on the side of each tooth that should be filed off?

Oooooo WAH AH AH AHHH best intro song I’ve heard on a KZfaq video

He needs to sharpen every other tooth, flip and repeat. They are set on angles to provide kerf.

I think it would work much better if you follow more closely the angles of the existing teeth and try to recreate the same. Every other tooth is the opposite angle of the one next to it. Of course it cuts because the teeth have an edge after you grind it back a little but the edge is sqware so it is pushing and not clearing the chips effectively, so it needs an angle to achieve this. The blade will track a straight line better and cut the edges neater with less heat too. Thanks for vid. 👍

All you need to do is barely "kiss" the carbide to take off .005-.010". No need to hog a lot of metal off the tooth. Also, thin-kerf blades have a tendency to warp when they get dull, so sharpening them doesn't help a lot. Thanks for the video, I've been eyeing that tool.

If you take a closer look every other tooth on the blade has a different angle, so what you are doing here is wrong. You should set the bevel one way, do every other tooth and re adjust the bevel the other way and do the skipped teeth. Also when you pull on the handle, your wheel guard is pushing against the lock pin. Good video

Pretty cool tool but the first thing I do before I would even attempt to sharpen any saw blades is clean it. Many saw blades get built up with dried sap, resin and wood glues that will appear to dull the blade when all you needed to do is clean it properly. I use a top of a 5 gallon HD bucket and the blades sit in there perfectly,. I then soak it in either some blade cleaner or I use Simple Green. let it soak, then scrub it with a brass wire brush, dry it off and test it. If it's still dull, then yes you could go ahead and try to sharpen it. But I agree with KOTC, if it's still dull after cleaning, I'll just replace it since this is very time consuming. Cheers!

I've seen these saw blade sharpeners in different names, but they all seem like the exact same design and setup. I wonder why they had everything sitting on stilts instead of making it flat with solid platforms to hold the blade solid and still give a great results. I realize the motor has to have room to clear the casing and blade, but lowering everything as low as possible offers a more solid setup. Might have to design one for my usage and see how it works.

Good for the back of my machete, it has a saw tooth limb/tree branch cutter on it. Then just finish it off with a file and a medium grit and then a smooth "grit". Type. Nice. I'm getting one of these for sure.

Most blades have a slight angle or rake to the teeth. The way you are showing, cutting every tooth with the same angle the blade is going to bind in the wood

You act like you are the first to ever discover a blade sharpener well they have been around for many years

I use a die grinder with a cutting blade.Mount blade in a vice first and sharpen away.works great.I havent bought a new blade in years.

I got their chain saw chain sharpener and it also works great. They do take a little of finagling with for everything to line up properly...like anything else, you need to use it some to get the hang of it.