hey, don't be so picky, this isn't for the professional, its for us people out here in the woods that don't want to run 30 miles into town to pay someone to sharpen a blade> Gezz, its a damn $50 sharpener, beats the hell out of using a grinderl in which I had to do ..

@@cferguson6688 One should ALWAYS try to do the job RIGHT; regardless of their education or lack thereof; not to mention that "if you can't do it RIGHT don't do it at all". Because IF you do not follow this golden rule, your life will be as this BrushRadical lives. IE: Having tools that he has to "work around", because they have not done what they should have. Oh indeed yes. Believe it or not.

@@MrPatdeeee I agree somewhat, but some of these people are comparing this little machine to thousand dollar machines and they are stationary to get it "precise on". Of course it isn't going to be "right on". Otheres and myself agree, if the blade gets sharp and does the job, then the job was done right not matter if its not "right on". THAT is what I was getting at. The way your sounding is that "no one " should buy this and spend the money and time to go to town to a blade sharpened. Oh yea, I use to go and have the blades "professionally" sharpened until the sharpening place closed down, now I would have to drive 50 miles one way to do this, cheaper to just buy a new blade then. The little machines save money and time and gets the job done. That is all that matters to me.

thorlo6 I’m glad you’ve explained what a professional think of this. I have a clearer view now. Thx

Question sir... I was told that tungsten carbide teeth are square to the blade but regular blades are mitered. The carbide teeth are thicker than the blade so the cut provides the clearance needed but a 'regular' steel blade has the mitered teeth to achieve the clearance needed, cutting the left side, then the right side, alternately. Is this true?

Thanks Bradley

Thanks Leo

Thanks

L)

J H Thanks for this. I’ve got one, but I’ve yet to use it because, as usual, HF instruction manuals are lacking.

Thanks

Derrick Wood, Absolutely. That's why every OTHER tooth is making heavy contact with the diamond wheel. Just cut the life out of that blade in half, at least.

I was suspicious about this. Not all blades are the same angle. Thanks for letting us know about the adjustment on the back. I hope he sees this.

Indeed! The lack of alternating set angles was the first thing I wondered about as I watched him set it up. Thanks for the tip!

The kerf of the saw blade is very important because the cutting edge angle of the blade needs a relief angle provided by every other blade so as to reduce the friction of the blade cut and provide longer blade life! Obvious, both the instructions and the presenter, do not know the geometry of a saw blade!

The "right and left hand" is called fleam. Fleam is usually slight, or neutral, in a rip blade and more pronounced in a cross cut blade. A chop saw should have a cross cut geometry so my first thought was the same... running each tooth through that sharpener without changing the angle will ruin the original tooth geometry.

Thanks Z. I appreciate it.

Thanks!

And , despite having to watch the grinding action a bit too often, the different angles helped answer some questions. Liked the different size diameter demonstration as well...but the question that brought me here is - how to sharpen hole saws?

Bushradical Good video and review friend! I’m seeing this tool online for $55-$70 new, less for used. I’m a woodworker, not in concrete, short of small jobs. Wondering if a steel blade would be best for your dirty lumber for concrete work. Carbide doesn’t like sand and minerals. I’d think you’d be loosing teeth with a carbide blade on that type of lumber. Also, wondering if adjusting blade stop on steel in gullet, below the carbide would give more consistent tooth grind. If carbide tooth is chipped, you’d end up with different grind depths I’d think. Thoughts? Also, for dedicated wood working, I’d spend the extra bucks on a bit better blade. If wood being cut is clean, they’ll stay sharp a good while. The red Freuds are a great mid range economical choice. For high end, Forrest is hard to beat. As to the question of hole saw sharpening - I haven’t tried that yet. I’d think Dremel or hand file, and a steady hand, might be the only options there.

I, also, found the presentation to be logical, well presented and very informative - as opposed to other, not-so-well-done, ones from other sources. Based on the clearly and logically done content I chose to buy a sharpener, too. I have plenty of blades to work on and I'm sure the neighbors will have even more, too. The clear camera work was exceptionally well done as well.

Well done

Thanks Rabbycracker. Where in Alaska are you. I have a place north of Fairbanks

Thanks Robert.

Thank you for that

They are just nay-sayers, I've had one for a couple years, does have to be set, but once done, works great, can sharpen a bunch of blades in no time.

Thanks Gordon

Thanks!

Thanks Ddbronco! I like making things work again.

​@@Bushradical I did some research it is commonly 1075 or 1084 both would be good for knife blades. I may try one and see and will let you know. I often see old saw blades at yard sale for nothing so it may be a good source of cheap steel.

@@kevintulak9987 Thanks. for the very good two tips.

most guys also would be back in the stone age if the walmart went down for a few days hahah

@@justpettet3506 since they put all the old regular places out of business with predatory pricing, that is the way the cookie crumbles.

Thanks Marvell.

Thanks for the tip

Let me know how you like it.

Or maybe a couple of hours. I clean the pitch from the blades by soaking them in a pan of Simple Green from a couple of hours to overnight, then use WD40 to prevent rust. The cleaning/soaking takes most of the time.

right on

Right on!!

right on

Thanks !!

Thanks JS! I'll take that beer anytime!

You can set the angle on the sharpener.

Thanks Cheryl!

Thanks

Gullet difference is when they balanced the blade after attaching carbide teeth.

Thanks

ATB tooth set up or ATBR tooth set up. There are just Flat top tooth blades which are basically all raker teeth. These blades are used for joinery work or ripping.

soune good to me I sharper some to

Thanks Reza. But I don't know when I would ever get to Arizona.

Thanks

Thanks GR.

@@Bushradical Try oven cleaner on them with a wire brush. Then give it a good rinse off afterwards. A plastic bucket lid makes a great tub for cleaning saw blades in. When I'm done after a rinse I give my blades a shot of WD-40 too. Helps keep them from rusting up.

Diesel fuel and emery cloth works decently. For rust, 48 hours in apple cider vinegar will have rust wiping right off. Mind you, you'll have to put a light coat of oil on them afterwards.

I really liked the video, you've shown how to use it better than anyone else on KZfaq. Now, I agree with GR, clean the blade of rust and other ick and it should be better!

Gerald Roth cleaning them really does help. Just learned about it recently and just tried it and it works so much better

They do adjust to sharpen the alternating angles of saw teeth.....I didn't cover that in this video because I didn't know it was adjustable at the time. Good luck

Hi Jim. Your best indexing off the gullet as the last tooth to grind will be indexed off the first tooth which has already been ground. Also if the blade has a tooth missing you've got nothing to index off. Tony

Thanks

LOL, never even nicked myself

@@Bushradical So far so good said the guy from the eightieth floor to the ground......Am a bit leery of the wobbly chop saw at 11:12 but good video demo of the sharpener overall....Thanks

Thanks

thanks

Thanks Daniel....but I don't understand exactly what you mean. Ive been hand sharpening saws for years. I know all about set. These teeth have alternating tips (left /right) when you look at the blade face one.....but the faces of the carbides themselves seem to be totally flat like a rip saw.

Yes, I should have said tooth angle. The term 'set' is only used for handsaws. Most circular saw blade types have alternating angles. If you don't tilt the grinding wheel, each angle will be square. Here is a graphic I found that shows different blades and angles. And, look beneath the grinding wheel. There is a -10 degree and +10 degree adjustment for just this purpose. The directions that came with the device go into length about making this adjustment. s26462.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/Sawblades_5F00_anatomy1.jpg Also, a link to the old 2012 video I did on this. It shows me doing it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p6iDnbJhrbGmdIE.html On another note: Nice cleanly done video BTW.....

Thanks Daniel. There must be an alternate version of the directions then....my set of directions that came with the machine was void of any good info.

@@CraftsmanontheLake You dont surface the TOPS or the teeth

of

Interesting. I was able to get the angles out of it for that, albeit not a very precise tool.

Thanks Dano.

Thanks

Try putting a lock washer, had the same problem. Adding the lock washer dit the trick.

agreed.. like when you get them professionally sharpened

You are absolutely correct.

so then there are different angles on every other tooth?

John Boehm opposite angles yes on some blades similar to how a chainsaw is sharpened.

@@johnboehm2593 on some blades it's a different angle on every third tooth.

Yep, I wonder if the instructions covered that.

LOL, thanks

Yep

Great video! Thanks

Thanks for the sub!

Did you ever have any luck with the bit sharpener? Ive never used one. But I do sharpen bits by hand....it works but you have to pay attention.

The drill bit sharpener never did work correctly, the drill bit holder was poorly designed resulting in erugular sharpening angles,,,JUNK,,,

YEP- you're correct sir, wood resin/glue is more than half the wear and tear....most people ignore it or dont pay any mind to it.

Soak the blades in a pan with Simple Green for a couple hours to overnight, use old toothbrush for scrubbing. WD40 for rust. Works great and inexpensive.

Thanks

Agreed

Can I have your old blades? :-)

Just sledgehammer the wood or sheet metal instead of using saw

Thanks William!

you're welcome

woodsie5474 * he dose not need to do anything. but you are a know it all wayching you tube for why? since u kno it all?

Good advice on getting rid of the tool hold and pushing the saw blade against the wheel. I’ve had one of these sharpeners for several year and sharpened countless blades. The tooth holder is just a big nuance and can even lead to a lot of frustration.

good info. Thanks

@@Bushradical Not good info. The force of the wheel is going to push backwards and you end up with a negative angle face. If your just touching the face to a wheel you may keep it straight only if the face of the wheel matches the size of the tooth. Still, you won't be taking an equal amount off each tooth. Not to mention losing a fingertip because you have no control over the blade anymore.

Check out a new saw blade with a square, what you perceive as different angles on the tips/face is actually an optical illusion.

@@patzeuner3362 This is about resharpened blades not new ones. New ones are sharpened with an indexing plate not a spring loaded finger.