Thank you for the time you took to write your comment. It makes making these videos a pleasure.

I’m only 21 and this video is extremely handy for me. But yes most of my generation isn’t 350 swapping things. Myself my 2wd housing was cracked and spewing its brains out. And now I’m installing this adapter to eliminate the oil cooler and my oil leak. My carb 350 swapped s10 with a turbo 350 trans is about done now. With the help of his video

@@Andrewstrauser I very happy that the video was of help to you. Keep turning wrenches.

Thank you for watching.

Thank you

Wow, oil pressure is good on the 383.

Same here...I never knew there was a Gasket, and I always put the Adapter in like it came out, never thought about reversing it for better oil flow.

What, you do not want a long introduction?

Thanks, will do!

I do not think there is a better filter system then System 1

Thank you.

Thank you very much.

Good piece of information to file away

@@ThrottleStopRacing My man! But in reality I have never had a issue with or without so it's kinda like.🤷‍♂️😆

@@TPVPRO How would you know if you're having an issue?

@@Milkmans_Son Part of the stock style adaptor has a bypass for when the pressure gets to high to bypass the oil filter. This works for two things, makes sure you have proper flow at high RPMs and helps keep the pressure from getting high. You may never know if you have a problem, but I promise the adaptor will leak oil past and that oil will not be filtered. If you change your oil on time and use a good quality oil 99% you will not have an issue as some of the chemicals in the oil will suspend the partials etc. When you pull bearings and notice scoring, it generally from oil not being filtered properly (and more than likely a part is failing or not in spec). Side note: Pumps (oil in this case) only create flow and the systems lines and filter create pressure, so any hydraulic system that leaks, even internally) may not operate properly.

@@jekinneys Explain what your getting at with this one ? Are you talking about the position of the adapter base on his video or using or not using the gasket between the adapter and the block ? Was curious because im doing this oil cooler delete mod and Was going too switch the direction of the adapter for more oil flow . Also not using a gasket as most don’t . Appreciate the insight in understanding what you are saying here Thanks

I’m about to do this oil cooler delete on my 98 c1500 pickup and Not use a gasket . Too the best of my knowledge after reading everything it’s said over and over by actual people here and on forums who have done the oil cooler delete or simply changed the oil adapter and driven for 1000s of miles that the GM# gasket for the Melling mfa350 adapter is not needed between the adapter and the Engine block. Even Melling says the same. The block and adapter are both machined surfaces so it seals with 120inch pounds on the torque wrench

@@Chevro91 I can’t imagine it would leak either and it would be within the gasket of the oil filter anyways. It’s not hard to add it later if it does. But idk how’d you know unless you were having oil pressure problems. Can always use a light rub of oil resistant sealant. It wouldn’t be as thick as a gasket and may fill in any imperfections.🤷🏼‍♂️

@@odinslockllc edit i now have partially confirmed it’s 7.5 ft lbs otherwise known as 96 inch lbs 😀. I believe the gasket is not needed for sure … but I recant my source who said it’s 120inch lbs of torque If you can find them specs let me know

@@Chevro91 I’ll look tomorrow

I agree.

Thanks for the input

It is the stock pan that came off the engine when ii was taken apart. I am no help with a part number

You can use any filter that worked before, I use a/c delco

@@ThrottleStopRacing which ac Delco filter do you use? I have a 350 SBC. My Duramax uses the pf2232 oil filter and that seems to fit pretty well but I'm not sure if it's the proper filter (too big?). The stock filter number pf52e is entirely too small.

The REALLY OLD Chevy Small Block engines had an oil filter that was a CANISTER that had a LONG BOLT that ran through it with a small seal that went under the bolt head. I THINK ( I can't remember ) there was also a seal on the other end of the canister. You would take the canister off and replace the ELEMENT ONLY on the inside of the canister. The more modern Chevy Small Block Engine design had a threaded center pipe nipple that an oil filter would just screw on. The modern oil filters have a square cut gasket around their outer edge and corresponding threads in the center. the ADAPTOR is used to convert a very old small block to be able to use a modern day filter. It seems like a great idea but I didn't have any oil pressure after rebuilding my 1965 Chevy 283 engine that was out of a 1965 pick up truck. I've always suspected that it was the oil filter adaptor that caused the problem but I never confirmed that as the cause. I'm dying to know.

Happy you liked the video, thanks for the comment.

I had the SAME problem back in 1983. I'm DYING to know the REASON for the low ( actually no oil pressure ) pressure. The guy in another video showing how to install this adapter said that you MUST have the check valve CLOSEST to the engine side of the oil filter area. He ALSO used the gasket. Now...in 1983 when I rebuilt my 283 small block that was out of a 1965 Chevy pick up truck, I used one of these adaptors without a gasket. I don't remember which way I had the check valve oriented. I had hardly any oil pressure getting up to the lifter gallery. In fact when I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the lifter gallery test port there was ZERO oil pressure ! The oil pressure reading at the oil pressure port on the lower driver's side of the engine read 25 lbs of oil pressure. Being a freshly rebuilt engine with ALL new bearings - all new EVERYTHING... I was NEVER able to figure out what the hell I did WRONG that resulted in such bad oil pressure. The pick up tube DIDN'T fall off of the oil pump either. I know that for a fact. I even changed the oil pump THREE times....the third oil pump I put in was a CORVETTE high volume oil pump and THAT didn't make a difference at all. What did I do wrong ? This and the Kennedy assassination are the GREATEST MYSTERIES of my LIFE.

Hello basically i have a new 383,motor.... Everything was renewed, except for the block itself, which was of course drilled to 0.30 oversize. Everything was carefully assembled, pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft, oil pump. The cylinder heads are the aluminum L98 from the 5.7 TPI Corvette. Whereby cylinder heads cannot have any influence on the oil pressure. Only this 383 loses its oil pressure the warmer it gets. The oil pressure isn't quite at zero but you can hear the hydraulics ticking when idling. If you give it a little gas, the ticking is over. The instrument gauges then also go up a bit. I have already bought an HP oil pump. Unfortunately, the engine of the IROC Camaro has to be removed or raised very high. The K-Member runs 5 mm under the oil pan. This is crap. I suspect the oil pump is bad. A mystery for me too. I'll get to work this year. That's why the Camaro has been in my garage for 5 years. Greeting from Germany

I really do not know, use your phone and take a picture is all I can suggest. Working in the bilge is always close quarters.

AC Delco

Man I wish I could tell you, but I do not know.

WE have had no problems, that is what is great about this hobby, you can do it anyway you want and be correct. Thanks for the comment.

Sorry it took so long, currently there is a STP S5 on the adapter.

@@ThrottleStopRacing thanks. I have a 327 from a 1967 chev, it has an adapter on it. Google kept giving me the canister part number. Got it, thanks. Great Info

Increases oil flow

Oil flow results tend to be higher lbs after doing the Oil cooler delete mod because the lines the flow of the oil cooler lines the fact it goes in and out of a radiator and the flow over all reduces restricts pressure in anyone’s honest opinion. The lines are useless unless one is Towing a lot or you just prefer too cool oil somewhat.

I do, but agree

Pretty sure the actual oem torque specs for any 350 Chevy oil filter adapter is 120 inch lbs if it makes a difference for Anyone here wanting factual specs. Beats snapping the bolts off in the block

120 in lbs = 10 ft lbs

Red lock-tight does not like vibrations.