Excellent presentation, Matt. THANK YOU. Decades ago on my very first (part time) job as a teenager my boss used to tell me, “Son, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with your back.” On automotive, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with a wrench. Thanks again for showing the way on using the brain on auto diag and repair.

All credit to Vicki here - it's amazing what a great stylist can do to ensure that we aren't subjected to repairs by Foghorn Leghorn in a baseball cap. I will admit that those tricky shots underneath the vehicle were pretty impressive too. Great tutorial. 🐓

Like how you used a process . Thinking about the facts , diagnosing the root cause , planning an efficient course of action, and verifying the fix. Also like the way you allowed your lady to have a role ! You looked at the camera and simply resumed coaching us after she fixed your hair nice . 👍🏼

Definitely helped me along the way of electrical problems! Definitely puts a lot of work into making time to give others a on point tutorial! A lot of respect! Thank you.

The background story, the case study and mapping procedure, this is keys to success. I appreciate this kind of thought, this kind of logical and technical approach to a scenario. Im currently dealing with a crank no start issue which had a camshaft sensor signal error on the scan tool and we've already detected shoddy wiring. We havent gone through the entire harness but at the connector itself was some damaged wiring and bad soldering and connections made. Replaced the sensor but still no start. So ill test the sensor wiring once the mechanic arrives tomorrow or before he gets here and we'll see how this gets us. Thanks,. Happy to have invested 31 minutes of my life in this informative video. Much appreciated from Cape Town, South Africa.

Thank you for your precious explainations. With P0336, my Citroën C4 1,6 16V sounded like a lawn mower. When I stopped engine during about twenty seconds before restart, I could accelerate normally once again. I've replaced the spark plugs this afternoon. For the moment, I no longer have P0336 and no longer roug stalling. <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="540">9:00</a>

This channel is absolutely awesome I love how you break down the diagnostics.Ive been having a similar issue with my wife's 2008 Chevy suburban the car is hard to crank than the traction control deactivates no signal to the tack at all car will drive with a p 305 code but hard shifts into second gear pings and runs like crap. I reset the engine code and the car runs solid for a few days and all of a sudden just decides it wants to act up.I look at the live data on the scanner and it doesn't even have a hiccup while driving. The other issues is a slow crank like it's got a dragging starter or bad ground things giving me one hell of a headache but after watching this I know I need to look at these wires and see what the hecks going on.

You are the best i have a 97 gmc 4.3 v6 vortex having the same issue with the crank position sensor . you have explained and i gotta say im hands on although u did a wonderful presentation and covered everything that needed to be shown in how to diagnose the p codes thank you for doing wat u do .

Scotty is good for entertainment and basic information. Matt is a scientist/mechanic who's great for determining the truth. I can actually hear the wiring/short in my 08' Subaru, AFTER the "reputable" local shop replaced the ecu , which didn't solve the problem, and, after I got a "BlueDriver" obd2 scan tool which immediately caught a crankshaft position sensor code. "Tickling" my Subaru ( visual inspection and listening ) has me moving scientifically closer to the Truth.

Try not to get annoyed by comments there are way to many people who are willing to share their less than helpful comments, love your videos it’s a pleasure to watch someone who skillfully methodically does their job and shares their wisdom of how to work smart.

I told you that The greatest thing come free, it takes a great human being to share this kind of info in detail. You reminded me of the time I was back at school! This will relief 😮‍💨 a lot of head aches! Thanks 🙏🏿! You are a great man!

Your videos are excellent and informative. Your approach to problem solving and the way you fix things is excellent

As usual another great detailed video,, thanks Matt

Thanku thanku had same problem on 2008 avalanche, changed sensor worse. Beat head on hood few times no change. Watched a lot of videos nothing. Seen yours on electrical problems started checking wires and connections. Found to be main ground on left engine block connector was almost broken made intermittent contact. Replaced connector alls good. Thanks again!

You're a pure genius bud love the videos

About time!. You were the only magician on tv without a beautiful assistant. Glad that's sorted. Another great video.

Thank you for the "next door neighborhood app" and thanks for all your detailed videos! God bless...

A scientist with a great analytical diagnosis

Thanx 4 the video! My 100th anniversary harley truck has this same problem! Replaced sensor twice now! What a pain! I am convinced it’s in the wiring! Can unplug & replug it in & it’ll start! Sometimes! Intermittent problem! I’m thinking the factory original was not faulty afterall!

Good stuff! I could listen to you all day and everyday and not get tired of it.

You are a great teacher I just learned a lot and I know I'll be learning more from you

absolutely love your tuition and in depth methods. ive gotta admit i 'was once' a part changer but really enjoying the understanding how it works and live readings before judgment . love this channel !

well done. very good approach of the problem.

Your pretty straight forward; i can say cause these real life scenarios can be a pain but i like the one with the cks your initionally saying is if you have a good referance, by replacing the cks is a sure fix if the wires are not broken

Excellent explanation 👍

Best diagnostic channel on the net!

Wow. A great person and excellent videos. The video that I just watched might be the best KZfaq help video that I have ever seen. He goes into detail and I found that so helpful and complete. GREAT. Thanks for making this video !!!

thanks! one of my 6 pin connector was bent on my 06 honda. even though it went in one of the pins didnt connect. You are awesome!

I like how you had to fix someone else mistakes.. for example they could have done it correctly but you did it correctly. Cuddos to you.

I had the same p0335 code on a 2007 G6 GT 3.9L .. I changed the knock sensor out with one from O’Reillys and the code still came back. I double checked the wiring with a multimeter from the connector up to the top of the harness and both the wires were good so I knew that it wasn’t the connector or the wiring, so I bought a AC Delco knock sensor, and put that in and everything is good, no more check engine light!

Great,elaborate diagnostic procedures….

AWESOME and thanks for sharing brother Matt.

No better instructor on KZfaq 👍🏽

Most knowledgeable video yet thanks bud

Damn wish you lived next door I have never seen anyone with your knowledge explaining code issues like this , Don't worry about your hair buddy You Rock ! Thanks !

Nice job Matt!

Here I was getting excited to see the piercing probes come out to play and all we needed was the wiggle test. That saved precious moments and gives more Sunday afternoon beer drinking time. haha

You could also test each connector pin with the car shut off using an ohm meter, by back probing a pin with one lead and probing the other end with the other lead and then wiggling it. If it deviates even the smallest amount from zero, you have a bad connection. Doing it this way is also safer as long as you probe each pin to ground first to make sure there isn't any live power. Unlikely that there is, but better to be safe than sorry.

This guys the best at teaching

That was a great learning video. Much thanks

Wow I wish I could just have you come and fix my truck 😂 I’m having the exact same issues

Well done Matt, this was enjoyable as always. You're my greatest teacher when it comes to diagnostics.👍👍👍

Ok, this is just a niggly bit not even about the car. One of the things you will see other KZfaq automotive repair channels do is when they are introducing a car to the audience they will typically show at least a portion of the vehicle. I know, it's just a sort of comfort thing but it helps. Do what you want, I will keep watching your stuff whether you like it or not.😁. You already know I like them all.

Nice job Matt🔧☺👍

This car/truck has a self lubricating chassis system working great 😂 , nice job Matt 👌

Good video Matt. Check out an Astro 9477 ratcheting crimp tool kit with interchangeable dies. It has dies specifically designed to crimp those open faced terminals as well as the common insulated closed barrel style that is so ubiquitous. It makes a NASA grade crimp every time. I like mine because it crimps both tangs at the same time and there is no guess work about how far to place the terminal in the dies. FYI

Very satisfying!

Fantastic! Thank you for sharing the all-important thinking skills for fixing weird little schtuff like this. Subbed! I so appreciate your though process and coming up with a diagnosis hypothesis and plan, based on analyzing symptoms Having a theory that we are looking for a sketchy wiring/connection issue FIRST is miles ahead of simply replacing parts. Recently had a Ford Focus 2002 with no blower. Found bad fuse. Replaced fuse. Nothing. At that point, removing blower motor and testing with 12V power supply, motor appeared dead. Took a flyer and bought a new motor--tested good on same 12V power supply. Yay! Not so fast--installed motor--nothing. Except on Max blow setting--worked on that. Aha! That is classic bad resistor symptom. Replaced heater resistor--success! All worked! Your approach of seeking "Why" symptoms happened... Well, blown fuse apparently a result of motor seizing up that final time, and possibly blew out the resistor too, or maybe resistor already bad. Anyway, love your process of analyzing the symptoms and seeking to understand most likely causes, and having a plan before simply throwing parts at the problem. Thank GOD I didn't have to depend on my auto mechanic skills to feed my family; now THAT would have led to a LOT of trips to the Food Bank...

Good work. Very helpful. Thanks.

my man living in 2020+ with mouse trails turned on... respect sire.

I have this and did the same thing this guy did. (Replace ckp sensor) No shop will help me further and they say they don’t do those codes and I’m in a small town. Car runs rough and bucks and sputters and rpm needle drops at warm up temp. Crazy how you make it seem so simple yet two years of my life have been hell replacing plugs ,wires, coil pack ,batteries and wires. Even removed the catalytic converter. Can’t tell you what a pain this code is p0036

Impressive........most impressive!

changed CSPS, still Same 335,336 with 07 6.7 Ram, then exhaust filter 80%, retired just putt about small town, drove on freeway(UGH) 50 miles Exhaust msg cleared. still 335,336. Thanks will try this now...

Thanks Matt !

CPS behind the starter, go to the Mitsubishi 4 cyl. Line, have to remove the belt drive, pulleys, timing covers, and timing belt.

This was fantastic!

Have you noticed the speedometer move when u revved the engine after the repair

Move a wrench on what😂😂😂 man u remind me of my oldest brother.such a smartass .love u man. U help me alot with your videos. Thank you....

Mate!! I love your vids!!!! Been watching heaps Cheers! 🇦🇺 🍻

Great job

Who gives atoss about scottys fans anyway... I love your vids and I learn a heck of a lot from them

Many after market crankshaft and cam sensors don't work correctly. If your going to replace, get the oem part.

Great video!

Could you do a video on “repinning” automotive connectors?

Well done good job

Matt, I am having the same issue with my 2006 3500 15pax van. Runs decent when cold, VERY intermittent rough run/complete stall when warm. Currently has the P0335 code. Your thorough approach and detailed explanation is FANTASTIC! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I will let you know what I find out tomorrow when troubleshooting, but using your scientific method, I am guessing a wiring short as well. Cheers from a 5280 native!

These will drive you crazy because the cam and crank are supplied by the same 12v in the pcm. I remember an 05 doesn't show they are shared but what happens is an oil leak at the top of the engine breaks the wires down and shorts out the 12v on the connector to the cam. Many times it only shows a crank sensor code but will be a no start. If that 12v is pulled down to about 8v it will make it run like poo or set 300 code

I have a 2004 dakota 3.7 engine with the same problem, the engine was removed for oil pan replacement exhaust leaks on the heads,the engine ran fine before removed after the engine was installed back in it make about 10 revolution before it fire the po355 came on it run fine at a idle but it won't pass over 2200 hundred rpm replacement or cps was done and the problem still there.

Thank you sir👍

Awsome video my pontaic g6 has same problem have yet to find bad wire

Good job

I just changed my CPS 2014 Hyundai accent GLS 1.6 liter before I replaced it it kept stalling. Now it’s jerky jerky runs like crap. Do I need to have it relearned to get it to run good

Good job thank you.

Very good. What I am trying to figure out is how to identify a crank sensor problem in a Holley Terminator X. The car has an intermitent stall or bog at WOT only. Off the line of while cruising.

diagnostic king of youtube 👑 im racking of my brain trying to figure out what this 6.0L gm motor is doing. getting no codes but reduced power, chugging and chocking, stalling, not starting up immediately...still no check engine light, ive checked the obvious...ignition...air intake, to catalytic convertors...i dont know what to do next

I fix machinery all the time excellent work buddy 👍😁

Good Video 👍😎

I have follow ur channel to become a professional mechanic.u gave me a free training on your paid channel.through your videos I got know Paul and I really appreciate it.I have Autel Maxisys ultra.thanks

Thank you

My sister had a 03 Nissan Pathfinder with p0335 that had the exact symptoms he described before swapping the crankshaft position sensor. I could never get confirmation it was the sensor and it only threw the code one out of maybe every 10 times it refused to start so I suspected it was just a referenced code. The only thing I could find wrong for sure is the fuel pump was out of spec, only giving about half of it's rated fuel pressure. Not fully understanding the mechanisms but trusting in the data I had, I decided to replace the fuel pump. Completely resolved the issue. I suspect what was happening was the vehicle had no way of knowing it had died due to being starved of fuel, so it threw a crankshaft position sensor when it saw the crank was no longer spinning. What the PCM didn't know is that was legitimate, the crankshaft _really wasn't_ turning anymore due to a sudden loss of fuel. I further suspect the fuel injectors have a very specific pressure that they will no longer open at all (thinking like a "burst pressure"), causing the low fuel pressure issue to go from "running fine" to "not running at all". Moral of the story is if you see p0335 or other similar codes, don't just go replacing the crankshaft position sensor.

Just discovered your page. Seems like another “ready, aim, fire” brother living in a “fire ready aim” world. Love your thought process, analysis and approach. I laugh because all the dirty fingernail types have already changed 10 parts and decided that the engine is “just shot due to age”. Don’t waste your time trying to convince the “fire ready aim” types to slow down……just know that us 2%ers get your channel completely. I need to go back and see what your source materials are around scan tools, online manuals and such……..

Great job!!! Quick question, not sure if anyone has asked this before but, do you use only the auto ingenuity scan tool or do you also have the enhanced options?

Well worth the 30 minute watch

I changed my cps and fuel pump on Chevrolet Express, and as soon as it warmed up it dies, no codes. After watching this video I went and took out my cps pigtail and saw the wires are exposed and coved in oil. Went to junk yard bought new pigtail for 3$, wired it up and it runs now.

Hwy i have 3 kids and im in need of direction or help. 2008 clk350 80k miles. I replaced mine die to code p0336 i recieved. I bought the replacement from orielys and after replacing it, it turns but wont start just like before i checked it with my obd. Does it need to be calibrated or something with the ecu or something ? Please help me.

I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.

Very good ty

What type of scanner do you recommend for a diy guy? Thanks

Having a similar issue with a 2014 Cruze 1.4T. Differnt symptoms, runs rough at ideal and cold, run smooth when warmed up and at moderate and high RPM. No RPM reading at all on the Tach.

thanks bro

There is definitely oil on that plug

CKP relearns are pretty much just for more accurate misfire counters....

I have a question for you. There seems tto be alot of issues with BCM system,with water leaking into Hummers and it creating a mess of electrical issues. Not only that these GM cars and truck from the early 2000's have electric issues. I have ad H3 Hummer, that has haall kind of electrical issues because of water coming in from the leaky sunroof,and draining down the a pillar and getting to the BCM. Now the sunroof has been siliconed and so no water is coming in. Now the question,I replaced the BCM with a preprogrammed unit,and went through the 30 min passlock system relearn and the car wouldn't start. Did it several times and still nothing. Notice that the crank sensor code along wiht air pump code is on,so the car isnt gonna start with the key. But if I tried using just the remote start and did the 10 min reset for 30 minutes and the car starts up,but will not start with key. In the beginning there were 2 codes on the crank sensor and the air pump,both parts were replaced and the codes never shut off, I think the car is not starting from the key because the crank sensor code is still on,check the fuses and wires for breakage,every problem sight of a ground missing,nothing!

Great job. Watched whole video. Because I had new connector replaced. They are saying it's my Reluctor and Crankshaft. Does the engine has to be pulled for that?

Nice

Will this problem also trip reduced power mode? My Yukon 6.0L is experiencing P0336 intermittent and after warm up. Then a very noticeable clunking sound, runs extremely rough and goes into reduced power mode. I then turn it off, restart and I’m good to go for a day or so

Helloy car has the same problem i changed new sensors and the code still comes up and i have code p P0335 FOR FAULTY or damaged key

Well I didn't fast forward anything but I did rewind it a few times.

Please a answer a question for me: my 2007 Toyota Rav4 4cyl 2.4 L engine, has a no start problem only when engine is hot. But i get no trouble codes what so ever Should I change the Crankshaft position Sensor regardless. Other than that this Rav4 runs great all of the time.

I've been having an issue with my 2015 fiat 500. Initially i was getting P0336 and i went to the fiat dealership to get it replaced. After getting my car back it barely started. Went straight to autozone and was getting P0336 still along with another code stating that the sensor needed a relearn. Brought it back to the dealership for them to relearn the sensor. Went home and realized that the 3 page report they gave me only showed them updating the ECU to a new version, nothing was mentioned in the report of an actual relearn. Getting the same codes. Not sure what to do at this point.