Great video Capt n B. I saw another video where the carb was being rebuilt and the guy recommended buying JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. I ordered a set and it fit much better on all the carb screws.

My skis run in brackish water so the bolts are often stuck. Carb screws may come out with your technique but I usually end up drilling out the bolts. It takes some time but I can usually salvage the part if the inside surfaces aren't too eaten up by corrosion. Wish I had an extra garage just to store spare parts. Love your channel. Keep the videos coming!

keep up the great work! Sea Doo vids are needed out there! so many people get frustrated and give up on these machines because of lack of info out there. they were ahead of their time compared to the other manufactures in the same time period. we have a couple of us in the group who run the sea doo X4 hull pwcs and we are faster than the other skis by far (except the new $14k skis) but thats fine with me because I maybe have 1k into each machine, tops.

heck yeah man! great vid! will have to try this when I get another stuck bolt!

I had the frozen bolts on the carb issue and ended up busting the carb because I put too much torque on the bolts when they were frozen. The solution I discovered AFTER the fact is using PB Blaster with multiple soaks over a period of a couple of hours. After this disaster, I ended up using never seize on the bolt shafts (not the threads) . I have had the carbs off multiple times after that and they come off like butter. I cannot believe seadoo did not think of this.

Food for thought, when removing screws ( after hot water bath ) turn out one turn, then in 1/2 turn with lubricant, then turn out one turn and back in 1/2 turn with lubricant as aluminum filings build up into threads when turning in one direction too long, like using a thread tap.

Great vid man keep it up

One tip. if you have umbrako bolts that is stripped, use a torx tap that is a little bigger than your umbrako and tap it in with a hammer. maybe you are lucky.

WD 40 or Kroil will work, but for best results it needs to soak for a few days, a week is better, before you try to remove.

I took carbs off and dried the spot where it seems to be leaking I think it's the rotary valve cover seal cause that's where it's cmn from right on that seam and I ran a compression test both are testing at about 145 psi.

How much compression should come from the pulse line to the carburetor pump?

Hi I was wondering if you could figure out why I have fuel under the rotary valve cover took carbs off and it's still a little wet under it even after I wipe it clean after about 10 min it's wet again and smells like gas it's not coming from the carbs cause like I said I took then out so where could the fuel be coming from?

Tried it seems to work