Yep, it’s made me stronger as well. When I was younger I couldn’t bend my erection, but now I can. That’s visible scientifically measureable progress.

Fired ,, BAAHAA

​@@teamidris I think it's the other way round: some part has become weaker, unfortunately ... ;-)

@@raspam :D

And it looks like real hair! Now how much would you pay?

Lol...that's so funny. Thanks for the laugh.

Oooo that fed lab guy must be really important eh. So important he constantly needs to prove what a douchbag he is. Not to worry, those kind of people are living in a hell of their own devising.

Heh heh heh...

Can't Understand Normal Thinking.

@@arduinoversusevil2025 The fed lab guy is unavailable for comment due to safe and effective gov mandated turbidity, viscosity and flow problems in his cardiovascular apparatus with a few neurological impairments on the side.

Yeah, the guy sounds like a dick. Dicks aren't funny, they just look funny

This is an accident waiting to happen

did you know you can fertilize your lawn with old motor oil?

@@noway5096 you can fertilize your wife with wine and chocolate.

Glad I’m not the only one

@@noway5096 but it's a great desert topping so don't waste it.

then use the channel locks to actually hold it in place. i've grown somewhat tired of keyless and cordless for any thing other than drilling small holes in wood and driving drywall/deckscrews.

Many a man has been destroyed by a 6 inch hole..

That means it’s run in and ready to use. The smell is “normal” for that model 😂😂😂

Mine got real silly . The motor busted out of the case as I was pushing on it. It was kinda funny to see the guts spin in the case and rip wires and turn to a stop,it reminded me of that engine dyno blowup where all that's left is the crank sitting there.

One man's odd aroma is another man's incense. I'd consider that drill a censer and use it to bestow blessings on yer fellow sinners and sinnerettes. The hacking cough is a sign that the Holy Spirit has come.

@@MrTheHillfolk So the drill prolapsed?

Fidel's son, Justin, has. Then, just like your loyal canine companion rolling over for a satisfying belly rub, many Canadian beavers have become accustomed to the fast finger. An unhappy beaver is dangerous to be around.

That looked like he was using his bump stock…

No but Britain did!

That there be a bubblefack bump stock

Workin on it🙃

Standard procedure on pillar drills too, to stop the chuck instead of waiting for it to spin down xD

After dealing with an old grinder for a while that tended to eject whatever's on it when it's coming at a stop- a full speed disc would be horrifyingly dangerous, but also really fun to play with haha

I got a nasty friction burn the last time I did that 🤣

@@uptowndisco2 You're not supposed to grab it with your thighs 😂

We call that efficient.

Why bother telling them? They already know or don't care. It's for the vidya views. You commenting on those stupid videos only helps to drive the algorithm in their favor.

Who ever reads a manual for a drill? 😂

It actually has been in a manual, can't remember which though, I believe it was 3 manufactures that backed up the rumor about the feature, those that didn't back it up was either a didn't know humpty or a cheap tools place person that knows absolutely nothing.

@@Masterfighterx Which manufacturers, exactly

@@ThatToast Can't remember the third one, but 2 of them were Bosch and Makita.

Exactly what I said when I saw it... "Wait, that's just a click closer to loosening.... BULLSHIT!" It's already locked when you tighten it, that's the damn purpose of a locking chuck from the get go!

I believe his last two videos are specifically because of that one.

same

But "critical thinking" is a rare commodity in today's world... good luck getting it delivered as well.

Yeap, same here. Said to my buddy, “Why would I want to start loosing the damn thing?!?”

That's you I totally didn't do that. Also do me a favor and tell people I didn't do that. Actually don't mention me at all.

I'm confused. I do this on my 12v bosch I use everyday and it 100% stops it coming undone

@@adriansmith8213 on my Bosch 18 volt as well, what gives

Well yeah, gotta make sure you're the only one who's really got the goods .

😂😂

idyits, they are. He'll make for a great supervisor, some day.

Cool story bro.

most likely makita crap. you need to purchase knipex cobra pliers with the tool to properly tighten the fckn makita chuck.

@@casemodder89 Nah, some other off branded thing, looks derivative of Kobalt I think.

@@MoldyStir-FryFlex?

Creation of clickbait KZfaq titles of course.

Sell more drills. Hey my chuck won't hold bits anymore. I need a new one.

You see something like this all the time, really. They sell a product with x name and it's the exact same as their y name product but the y cost more. What gives? What difference is there? Marketing, and deactivated features or otherwise neutered product output. Corvette vs cadallic cts, same chassis, same engine, corvette always faster, ctsv is detuned. Cell phones, new flagship comes out but now there's three varieties, they all have the same dimension but supposedly different specs? Que? Same shit on the inside, just subjectively neutered for a price point. So in this case brands hide features/output capability in order to sell the same package in a different box for more money.

@@772tsweet77 If the drill doesn't hold a bit without you using some super secret 'feature' you're most likely not going to buy the same brand again. Secondly this wouldn't be the same as designing something to fail just after warranty, if a drill doesn't hold onto bits while in warranty people are going to warranty it. Hiding a feature rather than omitting it makes zero sense, if you cant omit the feature on even the most basic drill you sell you sell the feature as a brand-standard feature, you don't hide it on every single fucking product you sell in the hope that people are going to buy more drills from you somehow.

"I'll tell you in 75 years." -- Pfizer, probably

indeed, moral of the story - buy brushless!

@@stanimir4197 dont buy mukeeta at all.

I have one, and the answer is YES.

VALHALLA!!!

Skøl!

Come down each day to drill through case hardened steel with diamond bits. Until they fail and are carried away by Rhinemaidens. To drink electrons and sing 'til midnight.

Once the magic smoke is let out,...there's no putting it back.

WITNESS!!!

That collet set in 1/64ths, Letters, Numbers, and Metric sure does take up a lot of shelf space though. I guess you can only get away with a few sizes of a CNC drill because you can helix-mill or bore odd sizes from a pilot hole.

Eh... I've used 'em before. The runout is always garbage and they slip if you look at them funny but sometimes all you need is two odd sized holes per part in a five part run so you just load what you've got and run it with your hand on the feed hold. If it makes you feel any worse the shop I am thinking of where that happened the most was also mounting the chuck via a taper drill to CAT50 adapter.

In a lathe it is no big deal if it isn't in live tooling it isn't spinning, not used often but can be used just make sure it's tight because if it pushes back you will have problems with following tools.

@@MattOGormanSmith jj

Then how in the hell dou you drill?

and prevent your front stairs from rotting!

@@arduinoversusevil2025 "I am Jack's carbon footprint"?

The answer is Gatorade. You water your lawn with Gatorade, because it has all the nutrients.

@@CSWeldFab Brawndo has electrolytes, Brawndo has what plants crave. 😆

You can fertilize it with DEF it’s just urea, works great and far cheaper then buying urea branded as fertilizer.

To be fair, the guy in the original video didn't say it was a real thing or not. He was posing the question to his audience because he called several of the major brands and a bunch of their techs confirmed it as a feature of the chuck. And a couple said either they weren't sure, or they hadn't heard of it.

@@NG-VQ37VHR he really should have called Jacobs or Rohm

Why still Borschjt, if they break all the time.

Tell me bud, did your bearing on your Bosch head start developing slop/play every time? I've got a genuine Bosch unit and honestly it works like a champ but the head's already been replaced and again it developed noticeable slop.

@@NG-VQ37VHR 'didn't say it was a real thing or not' Realize, this is quite possibly real, but not anything 'hidden', simply a consequence of an emergent function of the chuck. Tighten the chuck tight. Any energy into the chuck hits that wall of 'tight' and can bounce back, loosening the chuck. Tighten the chuck tight, then back off slightly. Any energy into the chuck moves the chuck forward, hammering it more tight, then can bounce back. The 'bounce back' energy then may not exceed the 'more tight' part of the energy. There are other things where you do a similar 'back off of right at the edge, because if you don't a hammer effect can make it loosen up'. Energy reflecting backwards from something that can no longer move forward is a thing. Put a ball bearing next to a huge piece of steel as a backing object. Hit the bearing with a hammer, and notice that not only does your hammer bounce back, the bearing comes away from the backing object as well. There is a reason people are saying their bits loosen up if they leave the chuck 'tight', but don't if they back the moving part off. Don't take that lightly, they aren't all just making it up.

Oh no!!! an assault drill!

Bump stocks for drills are illegal in canada and AvE is a humble law abiding citizen that would never dare cross that line.

@@nolansprojects2840 Drill the third hole with your bump stock drill.

wtf? I've never seen this happen. So is it just cross threading and need to be realigned by stopping at the back of the chuck?

Where do you work? Harbor Freight?

@@BrianRRenfro The DeWalts did it alot i used at work. Had to be careful though cuz they also liked to get stuck at full open if you just grabbed it by hand and put it in reverse and let er rip to open it up.

Motion seconded...

And thirded!

Easily done with his hydraulics gear@

Couldn't you just tighten it till it stops and call it good? What's the point of not tightening it all the way

@@matthewklein9225 yea I don't get it either, sounds like complete clickbait BS

You've seen the internal design. What mechanism is "locking"?

@@jimmeyers8960 I know for a fact it works but never disassembled to investigate it. IMO I believe you are simply disengaging the forward ratcheting mechanism and that prevents high torque and vibration from loosening the chuck. I simply know for a fact it works on my drill.

Makita Australia, some slimy salesguy with a 15 second clip.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f8p8eaecv63NZGg.html

@@arduinoversusevil2025 Hmm, no specific memory of this, don't remember the watery audio, but yeah, that's about how long it was. Timing is roughly right, it was a while ago. To think, there used to be hundreds of these little statements that, before the internet, no one could ever verify. It's rare to see something be passably believable but still BS in thr modern day

manu-fracturer

Through many years of virtuous living?

@@Urbicide It's a Canadian thing.

I learned it from assembling switchboards. Those frames were something else back in the day.

That only works, if it's in neutral. ;)

I tried a couple hilti cordless drills. their chucks are garbage, drills complete with battery too heavy and way overpriced. I have to say their service is great. Had a 3 month old drill got a little wet from the rain(aka completely submerged in the wheelbarrow) 2 days after i dropped the machine off at the hilti store i got a call; my machine was repaired, complete new exept the housing(because of the serial no.) and free of charge. Now i have almost everything Makita, 1/3 of the price compared to Hilti and cant really complain about makitas preformance, still use hilti for epoxy anchor grout

I am sorry to hear the hilti's are such junk. Disappointing cause I've always had my eye on them being the premium industrial name brand While I think makita makes better tools, i have to say my dewalt drills I literally kick around on the job site when they're in my way. I don't forsee having issues with them I've been drilling half inch holes in steel with them, augering 4" post holes in rocky soil with my dcd485, mixing 5 gal buckets of drywall mud, paint and thinset on 3rd and 2nd gear, and they are such a blast to use. The first time i had to mix mortar with my bosses new makita 1/2 inch drill and I smoked it and he took it back. not saying anything cause I do believe makita makes a better quality more smoothe tool with often better features but I've been having good luck with dewalts drills

@@user-bu2mn8do6v yeah chuks get stuck that you can't remove the drillbit, yet slip constantly

I acquired a Hilti drill from a job and I'm starting to think it was more their idea then mine...

I use Makita cordless tools installing stair railings and banisters. I buy the cheapest LXT drill drivers and impacts as I'm only drilling 1" or smaller holes in wood, but a lot of them for balusters. I've never had an impact die, but the drills last about two years with daily use. Every one I've owned eventually starts slipping gears.

Well hey even your name is chuck but youre wrong. I have Milwaukee drills with the feature. Let me look through the manual and quote it for you old timers

@@jorgeo1492 it's not in the Milwaukee manuals

@@jorgeo1492 you're full of brown sludge if you think its a legit feature.

HE STILL LOOKING!

@@chadthomasriggs he looked and realized he was wrong

Tighten to a certain spec? Tighten till binding then back off 1/4-1/2 turn put in split pin

If it were true, the user manual would say so....

Big ups

It’s not in their product manuals though. So how have they mentioned it?

That actually doesn't work with newer chucks , my dewalt will get a LOT tighter by hand .

@@onthelake9554 thank you for the heads up about newer gear

Does a wife count as "equipment"?

@@ferrumignis Wife is the stress. I am the equipment. ;)

Buy drill with quality Jacob chuck and this will not happen

had one 18 Volt Dewalt that would not stay tight, unless tightened with Channel Loks, very annoying...only one I have run across that did not stay tight

Did you try the one click back trick with the bad chuck? I'm sure it will work with that one. The manufacture just didn't tell you about it because it's a SECRET!

I've found that chucks will get dust in them (think jacobs chucks on hammer drills), at which point you can tighten them all you want, but all the torque you're putting into the collar is being borne by friction in the mechanism instead of force against the drill shank. Dirty chucks won't get as tight as they should and they won't stay tight. A lot of keyless chucks like those found on cordless tools are really never meant to be disassembled, so cleaning them is pretty much out of the question. It's a fair point to make that Jacobs-style chucks have no place on a hammer drill, but that ship has already sailed. Still, drilling masonry isn't the only way to get abrasive dust into the chuck.

I don't count clicks, just tighten really hard down on the bit, then turn the chuck in reverse a smidge until I feel it let's go. I actually followed the video you point to, and it worked for me. I haven't tested it on any other drill yet.

But first, make sure to like and subscribe. And thank you for my fine sponsor, ManscapeVPN.

Cut all the BS . Be honest . Just tell me where to send you the money . 😂😂😂

All i thought was, but why? "but it's not like you really need it" Looks like you got there in the end. :P

You sound like someone who doesn't hand drill holes in iron castings very often

No, you'd just be introducing a failure point that would cause the chuck to fail with something in it. The problem with that is the bolt you have to remove to disassemble the chuck is at the bottom of the chuck, meaning a chuck that failed this way would ruin the entire drill. Oh, yes, you can remove and replace a chuck cheaply and easily, by the way, it's designed to prevent you from haveing to replace the entire drill when the chuck nut goes bad. In fact, you can rebuild and repair any part of the drill.

Keyed chucks is the only ones that works... These tight by hand ones leads to damaged wrist from trying to tighten them more and more when your drill just rotates inside the chuck because it is impossible to tighten it enough.

I prefer keyed chucks too. But, if I'm honest, I won't give up the convenience of a keyless chuck for everyday nonsense.

@@autumn5592 I think this is more or less where I am on it, unless I'm doing some serious drilling it's not a problem

I just tighten my keyed chuck drill by hand, giving it a nice twist. It's usually good enough and if it slips _then_ i go and get the key.

your not entirely wrong though, every 250lb welding gorilla who has seen that 14th hour will tell ya "it's a tool not a day at the gym, don't tighten the disk down so hard you crush it." actually did this myself tired wasn't thinking so i just right cranked it down spun that disk up got about half way through the pipe before it popped off the hub and ran across the shop scaring the shit out of everyone. Rule o thumb is don't use the bar tool to tighten cut off disks. that tool is for grinding disks and removing disks. The inertia will tighten them down for you just use your hand on the disk and hold the stop button in and for god sake make sure it's unplugged well you do.

Works great on the quick connect sanding discs. Makes changing them out easy since they’ll auto eject whenever you stop it.

Won't matter, that guy will argue this to his grave. You know who; there's one at every job.

@@arduinoversusevil2025 absolutely!

Mechanics HATE this simple gas saving trick! You'll only need one last fill of the tank for the rest of the vehicle's life!

I actually got a lot of mpg’s back in the day by putting it in neutral and shutting the engine, on long downhills. Ah the simple VW bug days.

@@Kineth1 Yeah they just prevent the actual shift from happening.

@@robert_g_fbg I did that with my 4 cylinder Chevy Monza in the 1980's and was told by my friend that it was illegal, I called the police and that officer claimed it was a unsafe practice to do that, illegal I don't recall if he said so??? Common sense to disengage the clutch going down hills, YES. Very very steep hills maybe NO..

@@robert_g_fbg In New Zealand we used to call that Maori overdrive. Not anymore obviously, ahem.

😂

I had the same experience. I definitely read that in one of the DeWalt manuals while taking a shit at the shop. It was probably 10 years ago but I know without a doubt that I've read it in a DeWalt manual before!!!!

🤯

@@CastIronPrimate The gave us these 1-1/2 inch once with like a 1/2 self drilling portion. Drained a battery in 4 holes lol

Ha, that’s wishful thinking. Unfortunately seeing is NOT believing and facts don’t change minds anymore

@@D0praise , yes, so many people today would totally fail simple engineering aptitude tests. And basic biology tests as well.

I always get my big amp corded for that, those things will kill just about any cordless, and some corded.

Try just drilling a small pilot hole first.

No small drill motor can handle the torque or the heat generated by trying turn a hole saw that large. Think big motor = more better heat dissipation and longevity. Metal housing drills will transfer the heat and handle the torque better than plastic. Look for an OLD Milwaukee corded drill (hole shooter, hole hawg or hammer drill) with an actual keyed 1/2 or 3/4 inch Jacobs chuck (bigger chuck = designed for bigger holes and more abuse). You can find them on ebay, estate or yard sales. They were designed and built for that. You can purchase them cheap because nobody wants a corded drill any more. Bonus if you can get the metal box to store it in. Watch your wrists when using though - there IS a learning curve - they bite! You can also try an abrasive diamond or carbide hole saw bit for metal but you will still have to deal with the torque and heat generated. Or buy a new small drill motor every day and exchange it when it dies 🔥. Plumbers that do new house rough in work drill lots of holes like that daily (in wood) - look at what they are using. Hope this helps.

Chocco has it correct. You need a Hole Hawg type of drill when bits get over the 1/2" size. We use to go through 1 or 2 hammer drills a year before we found out they're only good for drilling through mortar, Makita tended to last the longest. Stepped up to SDS and haven't bought a new one for a decade or so. If you're cutting that many holes in tanks, would a plasma cutter with circle jig be beneficial to you?

wrong tool for the job... Do you smoke the drills, when cutting in the proper direction?