Carl Rudd I agree. I hate videos with any kind of music on it. It breaks my concentration and I can’t follow what’s going on. This is one of the best videos I have seen on KZfaq.

jks625 did you by any chance take the pinch roller assembly off by using a heat gun? I can’t get mine off to save my life. I’ve put so much heat on it it was almost glowing red. I’m kidding but, I did put a lot of heat to it and I can only wiggle it up and down about halfway by grabbing the pinch roller arm from the front and jiggling it up and down. How did you get your assembly off, if you did? I would appreciate any comments you have on that.

@@alcameron6071 i warmed mine up with a soldering iron.

I discovered this video today and it worked perfectly! Are you using a 1200 W heat gun on high heat? If so, work the heated part forward and backward on the shaft with the channel lock, carefully turning at the same time. The sticking comes from the grease on the shaft getting dirty and hardening up over time. The heat melts it so it can come off. Keep trying! You’ll get it.

Tapes could be suffering from sticky shed syndrome. It's rare for both motors to loose torque. Never seen a bad reel motor phasing cap yet on these either

@@JordanPier I will look into the possibility that the tape has become sticky. I believe the old tapes are all Scotch. I expect this means I need to bake the tapes. Unfortunately I already tried messing with the brake settings by loosening the screws holding the bottoms of the brake felt spring backing to the frame and sliding them to lessen the braking. Yeah, it didn't do the trick. I have a service manual and suspect I will need to get a spring scale and some string to test and set the drag. I may start out by trying to find any witness marks to try as a starting point. Sorry now that I didn't mark them before messing with it. I started filling the oil tubes in the motors with mineral oil. I hope that wasn't a bad choice of lubricant. I filled the three apparent ones at the rear but didn't see the ones at the front until watching your video. I still need to clean and lube the mechanisms actuated by the solenoid for the pinch roller. Thanks again. This video has been a great help to me.

@@JordanPier Found a belt kit on Amazon for $31.50 with tax and free shipping.

@@JordanPier Update. I got a set of spring scales to measure the torques being produced in various modes. I have a 2340S not an SX. I finally found a manual for the S. The S model has 3 variable resistors to adjust the torque. [as compared with only 2 for the SX] I have followed the instructions but it seems that loosening the screws and moving the metal contacts to the right or left on the three variable resistors has little to no effect, and I have moved them to extremes. The main problem is the fast forward does not work. When I measure the pull of the left reel on rewind it pulls at almost 500 grams. When I measure the pull of the right reel on fast forward it only pulls at around 100 grams. I'm pretty much stuck at this point.

@@smith971 at this point you likely have either a bad phasing capacitor for the take up reel motor, bad switching relay or open winding on the motor.

Jeremy Travis I found a belt for my 2300 on eBay for $12.50. Free shipping.

Just out of curiosity, how difficult was the recapping? I was thinking of trying that? How many caps were involved? Much thanks.

Were you successful removing the two JIS screws attached to the solenoid and pinch roller lift arm and if so, what tool and method did you use? I am having the same problem on my Teac A-2300sx. I have tried using lacquer thinner to melt the lock tight, 1400 watts Weller soldering iron to hopefully loosen the screws, but no luck yet. I have even purchased two different Vessel screwdrivers (stubby screwdriver with shorter bit and ball screwdriver with longer bit) and still cannot get good enough angle to break them loose. I understand that if you use a JIS screwdriver on these JIS screws, you have much less chance of camming out and stripping the heads and then game over, like you said. I have been trying to find a rachet driver with JIS bit on internet to hopefully break the lock tight. I found a offset/right angle tool at O'Reillys (like the one used in this video) but the Phillips head of screwdriver does not fit tightly in head of screws. I do not want to risk stripping the screws using this tool. I have watched many, many videos on Tapeheads and AudioKarma on this issue and have yet to find one showing how to remove these blasted screws. TapeTech on Tapeheads website said best way to remove the pinch arm assembly is to remove the solenoid plunger, but several other members say that method is really risky - reassembling all of those parts correctly could be a problem. Plus, you could end up having to adjust the pinch roller pressure as well. Any feedback would be much appreciated!!

Adjusted for inflation: I think this was more the equivalent of $15,000 to $20,000 in today's money. Maybe more. Depends on what you where buying, a house, a car, a coke, a movie, etc.

@@steelcantuna about $4,000 todays purchasing power, It really is a mini recording studio

Remove the reel table and check that the brake pads have not come unglued.

Andrew Mroch that sucks! I've had those moments. could be something you bumped into shorted out against the chassis, or a part just decided to die. take a look inside that area with good light. if there was smoke, something burned and it should be easy to spot.

Jordan Pier. I read in a forum that there is a plastic piece in between the small board above the power jack and the frame. I found a piece of clear plastic with a hole in it on the floor. I bet that's what it is. It said it could smoke the board on the left side. I just hope I haven't fried it. This is only my second project since getting into this hobby. Fingers crossed it was the cause and I didn't ruin it. Thanks for the helpful video!

Turns out that little plastic piece prevents it from grounding out. New problem is that when it plays the reel on the right doesn't move and it just the feed the tape into a pile below it. Maybe I don't have it loaded correctly. FF and RW work perfectly. Thoughts?

Make sure the brake solenoids come off. If the reel turns freely in play mode the brakes are off and the motor isn't getting power. If this is the case look at the large ceramic resistors at the top of the machine. Likely one of the adjustment collars has broken, the resistor has failed, or the power supply feeding the resistor is absent. Trace out how the motor gets power in play mode and you'll likely solve it

This is turning into a comedy of errors. Seriously, I have to laugh. I checked the brakes and everything moved freely. Resistors were fine (fyi - I have an A2300S) and noticed one of the two orange wires going into the top of the control board has been pulled out. So I think, "great all I have to do is get out my trusty soldering iron and put it back in the board". And then it began......................... I pressed play and it was hyperdrive playback just like you'd see on a Sesame Street skit. Tape going everywhere. So I press stop and solder it another way and nothing happens. At this point I don't know if I'm working on it for the enjoyment of bringing something back to life or comedic value. I have the service manual but I really don't know how to read the diagrams. Any idea what I could have done wrong? I can't stop shaking my head and laughing....

My used TEAC had a cracked head board. I epoxied back together and solder a few broken traces. Worked fine after that.

This is the only one, but this transport was used across many models.

I called the "TEAC" (some other supply company that has taken over I think) and they had no record of the 3340 or the A-2340SX models so the gal said she'd have the tech call me with the part number. That never happened. Would you happen to have to part number for the drive belt? It's probably the same for both decks? Thanks! Tod in Vegas @@JordanPier

If I remember correctly once you get the knobs off there are hex nuts holding the face on with the controls.

It's tricky, but the solenoid plunger needs to be removed from the housing, all the grease cleaned out of the housing and off the plunger

Power supply to audio section has failed, or fault in the audio section preventing sound from being processed correctly.

I would disassemble, clean and re-oil. Non detergent oil. Sae-30 or turbine oil. Make sure the oil felts are intact that hold the oil in.

Any non detergent machine oil works. Mo98 zoom spout is a fav of mine.

Any machine oil without detergent.

Yes, the DC ones are permanently lubricated. Most if not all the AC motors had oil tubes. If not, pull em apart, clean and relube them with good turbine oil

@@JordanPier Hi again, Jordan... I do not want to belabor this string, but indeed, some of the late old AC motors did not have oil tubes. In fact, I have an A-3300S whose take up and wind motors have tubes and the capstan motor has none. I talked to Sam Palermo in Chicago, and he was the one who clued me in on the fact. I hope you know who Sam is... he was the manager of TEACs repair department back in the day, he is the TEAC go to guy in this country. BTW, he said that modern 5/20 SYNTHETIC motor oil is better than the old school TEAC recommended oils for these uses. I use this oil on the pinch roller, capstan shaft and capstan motors, also on my turntables (2) Thorens,, Philips and (3) DUALs. Reel to reels include (2) A-1230, (2) A-2300S, A-1250, A-3300S and an Ampex ATR-700 (which is a TEAC A-7300 in mufti) - all in working order... when friends find out you have TEACs, the units come out of the woodwork cheap or free. I hope I did not put you to sleep and have a good evening.

Nevermind, found it on your other TEAC service tutorial video! Cheers! Great stuff.

OK, I figured it out. It acts as the return stop for the tensioner and goes under the switch with the tab in a somewhat hidden groove on the bottom of the tensioner bearing.

Capstan motor phasing capacitors

I don't remember honestly. I would find the pulley where the counter belt is and see if it's possible to get some oil on the shaft that runs behind the counter pulley. Use an oiler syringe . If not accessible you'll need to remove it.

@@JordanPier YES! That did it! Thank you!

ZoomSpout mo-98

I found out that pure SYNTHETIC 5 - 20 motor oil works perfectly... save a couple of drops from your next oil change. You can buy cheap hypodermic syringes (without needles) at hobby shows (train shows) for about a buck. Get the 2 c.c. size.

If the brakes come off, then check relays that power the motors for fast wind

Rick: i use mo98 zoomspout for the oil. I put it in a syringe to make it a little easier to apply. Don't screw with the head alignment unless you have the teac ytt test tapes and an oscilloscope. I don't do those videos because I assume people don't have access to that stuff. You'll do more harm than good if you mess with alignment without test equipment ;)

+gelu curtean that's a fairly good indicator. Usually when the capacitor fails you get this symptom, but also check (with the machine off) the continuity of the micro switches that interface with the right compliance arm (the one that starts the motor when you lift it) - if the cap goes bad it can hurt the switches

Popsicle sticks. You can file and sharpen them to make good head scrapers

Very carefully check the heads. All it takes is a little bit in the gap to kill the fidelity. Also check your tapes. Ive found that old tapes can be worn to the point there is little clarity at all. Try to find some commercial music on tape before drawing conclusions. Also check head gap wear isn't excessive