Thanks Joshua, The corrosion condition on this one is a clockmakers nightmare.

I agree, and appreciate James' attention to detail...

Your Welcome, Hope you were able to get something that helped from it.

@@jamesmartin5370 I always pick something up watching you work, James. Thank you...

This is one of the heaviest oxidized movements I've seen.

Yes I do, some of our grandkids think the shop is haunted with all the ticking, I have filtered most of the noise out of my videos lately, too loud for some folks, I need to run them to test how they time out for the customers, gets a little loud at times.

Ah see that's music to me. Grew up listening to a Hawina longcase, a Chelsea Williamsburg Whytte House mantel, an 1870s Seth Thomas ogee and two cuckoo clocks all competing for attention. 😊

I agree Robert, Just when you think you have see it all, something like this walks in.

Best movements and cases as well, nice styling.

Thanks, Still talking to the customer on how they want to proceed on this one.

I don't have a website, I have been so busy don't need one. I get a lot of work that the other clock guys say are not fixable. I am located in Washington State in USA My email is jamesmart55@hotmail.com Right now I have several months work ahead of me.

@@jamesmartin5370 thank you. I will be in touch

Thanks Frank, To my knowledge, early clock makers used Gold Gilt, lacquer and wax. Gold gilt will last 100s of years if not abused. Lacquer and waxes need to be replied from time to time.

@@jamesmartin5370 AH! So the renaicance wax I use is good!

@@benerabilis Renaissance wax seals against moisture and oxygen, its a good alternate, just keep in mind its not as durable as the others.

Several different ways to clean oxidized brass, I'll get the basics on a video for you soon.

Brass on this one looks like its suffering from dezincification. Probably be best to remove the oxidation with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid then neutralize it and seal it with a sealer to prevent any further oxidation.

@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks for the info. I hope you can make a video about it.

Yes, There multiple gold gilt kits on the market. Original gold gilt was applied using a Cyanide-Based Gold Plating process. There are some suppliers still offering gold Solution Concentrates that are Cyanide-Based: www.riogrande.com/product/Midas14KYellowGoldPlatingSolutionConcentrateCyanideBased/335084?gclid=CjwKCAjwxOCRBhA8EiwA0X8hixMGMAGD4lHNSoQnGhBgkOhUICNwQEFJCbkM30Zex4ppH4QpCO1GWBoC_LwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Gold can also be applied using an electrolysis process: www.amazon.com/Liquid-Brush-Gold-Plating-Solution/dp/B073PPHC5W/ref=asc_df_B073PPHC5W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9431843956533889376&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033785&hvtargid=pla-359528457243&psc=1

Thank you James. I really enjoy your videos.

I will have to say, its one of the worst one I have seen. Almost like it was stored in a high acid environment.

Well, the 3 necessary ingredients for corrosion to take place are: 1. metal, 2. water (an electrolyte), 3. oxygen After brass is cleaned and neutralized it will need to be sealed to prevent water and oxygen from getting to it. Older movements either had gold gilt or lacquer applied to them to seal the brass. Since the gold gilt is gone, lacquer or a clear urethane product would be my first choice for a sealant.

@@jamesmartin5370 James, when you say lacquer do you mean like a lacquer used on wood? How do you apply the lacquer once you expose the brass. Could I theoretically spray some clear lacquer into a container and lightly brush it onto the plates avoiding areas like the pivot holes and also the steel?

@@gagesvintageclockcollectin7118 Any type of oxidation inhibitor will work, originally bare brass clock parts were sealed with, clear shellac based lacquers, and clear enamels, today there are new age acrylic lacquers acrylic enamels and urethanes that are being used under various name brands. They can be purchased in easy to use spray aerosol cans. Its best to spray when movement is apart. I would avoid brushing unless you use a slow dry product, brushing may end up pooling in areas next to screws and objects, a light spray will five a more even finish.

@@jamesmartin5370 okay then. I suppose that makes sense about how the spray option would produce a much more even finish than if it was applied by brush. I wonder if, while the movement is apart, and to prevent lacquer from getting into the bushings, if I could simply stick toothpicks in the bushing holes. I would put the toothpicks in on both sides most likely as both sides would need the coating. I assume the gears would need this lacquer coating as well too, but these would be much harder than lacquering the plates. I experimented this movement, after some inspiration from watching your videos, to try and preserve the original gold gilt. I had not thought much about how raw brass requires that lacquer coating to seal it and protect it before. This 44 movement I am working on I placed in a bowl of water mixed with probably a cup of simple green and a cup of Murphy’s oil, and I limited myself to only using the toothbrush. Not the brass wire brush. After letting the plates sit in the solution for a long period of time (roughly an hour or so) I would do a quick scrub on both sides of the plates and then put it back in the solution. There are some red patches on the movement, I suppose from oxidized brass that was exposed from previous cleanings. However, the remaining gold gilt cleaned up very nicely and the plate looks great. I was also pleased to find that the screws underneath all the dirt had managed to retain their original bluing. Anyways, thanks again James. It is always a pleasure to talk with you and hear your advice about these old clocks.

@@gagesvintageclockcollectin7118 Tooth picks are a good idea, also could do what is called pegging the holes out after its finished, usually use box wood pegs, any good clock supply house will have them, or use tooth picks, just insert in the bushing holes then rotate them, the wood will clean and polish any residue clean of the hole. Tooth picks are made from many types of wood and most can leave wood dust behind, box wood is a hard wood very little grain and doesn't leave any wood dust behind. The red spots on the brass is areas where the zinc has been removed. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, remove the zinc and the red colored copper is left behind, a little polish or brass brush on it will bring back the brass color. I see a lot of these with the gold gilt damaged. If you talk to the jewelry folks they will tell you never clean gold gilt jewelry in an ultrasonic cleaner because it will damage the gold gilt so a bit of a controversy why gold gilt clock movements are being put in ultrasonics. I have seen ultrasonics create hot spots on the item on corners and sharp edges, and remove areas of gold gilt, use with caution.

Oui, les originaux de France étaient en marbre. Les sociétés d'horlogerie américaines ont copié le design français, d'abord en marbre. Le coût était élevé, ils ont donc inventé une finition en marbre similaire, car celle-ci est similaire aux boîtiers français mais pour moins d'argent pour le consommateur.