Heating module repair

  Рет қаралды 1,859

Shadon HKW

Shadon HKW

5 жыл бұрын

Пікірлер: 18
@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738
@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738 5 жыл бұрын
On our preventative maintenance program we tested terminal tightness monthly and found looseness. We started using Nordloc washers, seams to have helped with the dissimilar metal expansion we have now changed to checking them yearly with no faults found it has helped with our application. Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
@claytonpalsson3104
@claytonpalsson3104 5 жыл бұрын
I hope they have tempature guages and voltage meters. Warnings of failures are great for maintaning systems. Great video.
@cpcoark
@cpcoark 5 жыл бұрын
Nice fix Stan. I like using Kep nuts for some of these repairs. Any reason you don't like them?
@sheemondallasgeorgia
@sheemondallasgeorgia 5 жыл бұрын
Another advantage: 25% fewer wires; no ground wire needed. You need safety ground but no ground load. Also, voltage in the load part of the circuit is lower (1.7 factor).
@JoeBee999
@JoeBee999 5 жыл бұрын
But remember, most of the times you don't have the choice between star and delta, because the Voltage in Delta is Squareroot 3 times higher. Example: In a 380V 3-Phase environment, the voltage in a star, between each element, is 230V, in Delta it is 380V (230 *SQR(3)) If your heating element is not rated for this Voltage you have problem. This also results in a 3 times higher power draw in delta configuration. You can overcome the problem of breaking star connections by attaching the Neutral Wire to the Star Point. This pinches the Voltage back to 220V. But in High Power environments there shouldn't be such unsymmetrical use of the phases. So still a thing to fix.
@CompEdgeX2013
@CompEdgeX2013 5 жыл бұрын
I think that's the same model Tim Hortons uses to toast yer bagel. :) I imagine with the expansion/contraction cycles that unit needs checking fairly often for electrical tightness.
@Pobadill
@Pobadill 5 жыл бұрын
Where can I buy one of your heat treating ovens?
@michaelcollins724
@michaelcollins724 5 жыл бұрын
THANKS STAN MIKE
@1973mre
@1973mre 5 жыл бұрын
Yep looks like a flux capacitor may solve your problem. Is that what you were drying in the picture?
@JustinAlexanderBell
@JustinAlexanderBell 5 жыл бұрын
Was the original hardware coated copper/brass? I've seen those washer/nut configurations on old transmitters and they worked well, but they always had a copper/brass substrate.
@ShadonHKW
@ShadonHKW 5 жыл бұрын
They were stainless
@robertoswalt319
@robertoswalt319 5 жыл бұрын
Question about the delta configuration, if one of the elements burns out, would it still shorten the life of the other element in the pair? Also, could you redo the busses and convert that element frame to being a delta configuration without any further modification?
@ShadonHKW
@ShadonHKW 5 жыл бұрын
In the delta configuration, each element dictates its own current draw and is not reliant on any other element. So to answer your question, yes, the other element will run fine.
@terrymcdougal9258
@terrymcdougal9258 5 жыл бұрын
Could you change that to a delta? If so why would you not reconfigure it to a better system?
@ShadonHKW
@ShadonHKW 5 жыл бұрын
The element resistance would have to change, didnt mention that.
@gh778jk
@gh778jk 5 жыл бұрын
What voltage does that 60Kw element run at? Those copper bars look rather anemic for that much juice... At those currents, the copper should be tapped and the hardware should be of a suitable alloy, not regular hardware-shop hardware. This is a really lousy design. Paddy
@ShadonHKW
@ShadonHKW 5 жыл бұрын
I have 480 V to work with, with the connections tight and everything working properly, it only pulls 34 amps per leg, when things get loose, this changes very quickly.
@gh778jk
@gh778jk 5 жыл бұрын
Stan, Thanks for your reply! Yeah, I see.... But, no matter what you do, and what efforts you give this, unless you rebuild the entire bus-bar section.... this thing is going to be on your 'healing-bench' in a year, if it is that long. We used to have these nuts, made out of some copper-alloy, that had a knurled rim. This rim was press-fitted in a hole in the copper bar, providing a very good and durable contact. The cable was then secured by a bolt through the bar, in that nut. That bolt was of the same alloy. The contact face of the bolt was serrated, so it would cut into the cable-shoe (or other bar if that was the case). The problem is of course exacerbated by excess heat, given the application. Good luck with that one mate.... I don't see it end well! Paddy
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