SHIRT BUYING ADVICE FOR GENTLEMEN | CUFF CHOICES TO CONSIDER

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The Chap's Guide

The Chap's Guide

Күн бұрын

In this video your host discusses some of the components (cuffs) that a gentleman will have to consider when making a shirt purchase.
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Пікірлер: 76
@guitarplayer5611
@guitarplayer5611 11 ай бұрын
Matter of fact, to the point advice. No fluff! Refreshing!
@9er..
@9er.. 11 ай бұрын
The barrel cuff is flexible while wearing a French cuff is a flex. There’s a time, stage in one’s career and place for each.
@danielschaeffer1294
@danielschaeffer1294 11 ай бұрын
Three remarks on cuff links. 1) Someone pointed out in a forum years ago that if you’re doing a desk job that requires a lot of writing or typing on a computer you might want to avoid cuff links because the clanking noise on a desk top can get annoying. 2) For evening dress if you wear cuff links you might want to go for a simple dress watch with a leather strap. Pierce Brosnan can get away with wearing his Omega 300 dive watch with a tux, but hey, he’s Pierce Brosnan. 3) The term “cuff link” is onomatopoeic. The sound is identical to the sound that one makes if you drop it on the floor. “Ka-FLINK!”
@richallan001
@richallan001 11 ай бұрын
I'm a code monkey, I often wear cufflinks and find no noise issues 🤷‍♂️
@jonathonshanecrawford1840
@jonathonshanecrawford1840 11 ай бұрын
I agree in an office (non-padded desk) would be annoying! There is a time and place for cuff links such as formal functions! In an office? He would be a show off, "look at me, I'm better than you" type of person!
@daniell2217
@daniell2217 11 ай бұрын
@pascal. You jest, but that is correct. Proper black tie dress is no watch. If you absolutely must wear a watch, only wear a dress watch on a black leather band.
@jonathonshanecrawford1840
@jonathonshanecrawford1840 11 ай бұрын
@@daniell2217 If the outfit is a tuxedo, a pocket watch can be employed in say the little pocket or in waistcoat, *not the wrist!* I.e. a wedding, thus the groom or groomsman, don't go there!
@richallan001
@richallan001 11 ай бұрын
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 I can't say I've ever considered myself better than anyone else 😐but I do like to wear what I like to wear.
@ryangrimm9305
@ryangrimm9305 11 ай бұрын
I have some dress shirts that are rather....hybrids. They are French Cuffs, but along with the holes for cuff links, they have a button. That way if I'm not in a VERY dressy spot, I simply close the cuffs with the buttons supplied. When using cufflinks, the buttons are hidden. One other thing that is not covered: Button Covers. These, added onto barrel cuffs, can make it look more formal and dressy. Most of the links and button covers I have acquired were secondhand shops goods, and include some wonderful Art Deco Sterling silver and enamel bits. I have to date not paid more than $6 for a set of links or button covers. My button covers are gold rimmed with either black or midnight blue centers, black going with most everything. Which reminds me, I need more button covers. I recommend buying TWO sets of each style or color, as if you lose one, that still gives you a spare. I HIGHLY recommend a small (maybe 7x10 inch) divided jewelry case to organize your accessories. Mine is walnut with a glass top, and a strap that holds the lid open so it's doesn't just flop down. It likewise has a snap to keep it closed when I pack it for extended trips, or just carrying it around from where I stash it to where I'm dressing...awkward to drop the case and have it all spill out, as has happened in my past. Again, secondhand shop, paid around $10, and it has made a world of difference in storing and sorting my things. Search diligently, and cruise The Web for more good things of use and value. I have noticed in recent years that men's items are becoming rarer, as men have been either dressing down more frequently, or just dying off, and no one is expanding their clothing accessories.
@chrisblanc663
@chrisblanc663 11 ай бұрын
Great video Ash. I have never worn a cuff link shirt myself, and don’t feel the need to. I find there is enough variety and color that comes from a tie, and pocket square. Of course anyone who likes the cuff link style, are more then welcome, and I appreciate seeing them.
@TheLycan238
@TheLycan238 11 ай бұрын
Excellent video Ash. As a general topic cuff links is a great concept for a video from somewhat novelty cufflinks to the most formal cufflinks. To answer the question posed in the video barrel cuffs at work unless you're at or near the top of the organisation.
@stephendownes6331
@stephendownes6331 11 ай бұрын
Simple buttons leave the cufflinks for another time and buy them from Charles Tyrwhitt then job done.
@billyo54
@billyo54 11 ай бұрын
Great advice Ash. After an elderly friend of the family passed away e few years ago I was given his collection of cufflinks as a memento. I now have four French cuffed shirts in my wardrobe and absolutely love wearing them. But you're right, of course. They are quite formal and should only be worn with a siut and tie or double breasted blazer and tie. The trusty barrel cuff is still my mainstay though.
@martinbonniciphotography
@martinbonniciphotography 11 ай бұрын
Good morning Ash and all. I live in barrel cuffs, but I must say when called for, French cuffs with cufflinks (to suit the occasion) feels pretty special. Have a great day ahead everyone.
@RaoulKunz1
@RaoulKunz1 11 ай бұрын
I'd have to concur here, same distribution of "cuffs in use" 😉. Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
@teekue
@teekue 11 ай бұрын
Having just been to Italy I can tell you that nobody here wears cufflinks and the Italians are probably the most prolific suit wearers in the world. People wear suits just to get a drink in the evening. And I get them! I've completely stopped wearing french cuffs except for black tie occasions.
@daniell2217
@daniell2217 11 ай бұрын
It’s English style, not Italian style. You probably don’t see a lot of structuring in suit jackets where you are either. Neapolitan and Roman tailors are famous for this. Doesn’t mean the boys at Henry Poole, Huntsman, or KHL are doing it wrong.
@supersonique001
@supersonique001 11 ай бұрын
Cocktail cuff shirts are available at Mason and Sons in London and are reasonably priced a bit lower than Turnbull and Asser. I have 2 and they are of a high quality. They are seldom seen in north America and are quite a conversation starter!
@stevecowling6333
@stevecowling6333 11 ай бұрын
At the moment all my shirts are barrel cuffs as I have always considered the french cuff too formal for every day wear. However I do miss not wearing cuff links as I did when I was younger (I have about 20 years on you). At one time barrel cuffs were made with a button hole next to the button to accommodate cuff links which made an ordinary dress shirt a little more formal when the occasion called for it. The only shirts I have found with this feature are the Ex- military shirts in the Army surplice shop. P.s I always enjoy your programs.
@edwardbirdsall6580
@edwardbirdsall6580 11 ай бұрын
I have a split on cuffs about half barrels cuffs half French cuffs. Gives me great flexibility. Sometimes I may not want to stand out so barrel cuffs. Often I wear French cuffs because they are a subtle step up which often gets noticed. I do or at least have always tended to a slightly more formal style. As I write this I notice my French duffs tend to be about half my White, Business Blue, and Pink shirts. I have often pointed out to younger men that one white dress shirt with French cuffs is a simple subtle way to set yourself out from the cookie cutter outfits of your peers.
@johnorchin8567
@johnorchin8567 11 ай бұрын
I prefer the looser fit around the wrist which you get when you wear cufflinks. No one has mentioned that!
@silasmoser301
@silasmoser301 11 ай бұрын
Thanks Ash.
@Rob-cv3vh
@Rob-cv3vh 11 ай бұрын
Again a wonderful video, thank you. I'll echo some of the points you made and some of those that occur in the comments. I'm a fan of French cuffs, on a practical note the length can be adjusted if the folded edge is soiled during the day, or if I wear a Covert coat over my suit and want to add a hint of viewable cuff. You're spot on with the comments about jewellery, I do like cufflinks as I only wear a watch on occasion and don't have rings, earrings, necklaces, tattoos et al. Some of my cufflinks look like mother of pearl buttons for occasions that require discretion, others of mine are more exotic but it's nice to add individuality. I'm commissioning some shirts later this month from T&A, a pale blue with Cocktail cuff is very tempting. I think their other signature, the 3 button barrel cuff may not be for me but ultimately it's the collar styles that draw me to Turnbull & Asser. I watched Live & Let Die last night, the cocktail cuff made a welcome appearance and I believe it's also in the latest film.
@RaoulKunz1
@RaoulKunz1 11 ай бұрын
Good morning everyone! I personally love French cuffs but the vast majority of my shirts are barrel cuffed if for no other reasons than ease of management and safety at work - wouldn't want to be hit by a ricocheting cufflink, accelerated by an unfortunate contact with a grinding band...😉 For the same reasons I also wear sleeve garters (...and to be perfectly honest also for the vague "late 19th/early 20th century craftsman look"...). Though thankfully I can happily follow my obsession with Winchester shirts, which I feel just look so dapper with the contrasting collar and cuffs. So I'd say French cuffs for anything formal (or higher placed in the hirarchy later; or personal enjoyment😉) and barrel cuffs for anything else. Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
@adrianwalker2833
@adrianwalker2833 11 ай бұрын
Ah, there's someone who shares my passion for Winchester shirts. They seem to have fallen a bit by the wayside since 1970ies. But I get mine from the "Savile Row Company" and they don't break the bank either.
@RaoulKunz1
@RaoulKunz1 11 ай бұрын
@@adrianwalker2833 Oh, interesting, noted, my thanks! I simply like Winchester shirts for their, fairly simple in principle actually, way to add structure and colour into shirts without being overwhelmingly gaudy and they offer a certain degree of moderation in spite of this and in many ways seem more gentlemanly in their combination of both dapperness and moderation without getting over the top with patterns and colours everywhere... am I overthinking this? ;) Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
@stephenloy3535
@stephenloy3535 11 ай бұрын
Great topic.I am a big fan of the cocktail cuff,and have them on many of my shirts.There is also the Lapidus cuff,but those are strictly a custom item now
@simonhodgetts6530
@simonhodgetts6530 11 ай бұрын
My personal preference is for a French cuff for business and more formal occasions, barrel for casual. I find that wearing cufflinks, and a tie with a suit, or blazer and chinos sets me up just right for a more formal occasion. I also enjoy the ritual of putting on cufflinks!
@Electron101
@Electron101 11 ай бұрын
while i dont see much of a need to getting double cuffs (dont have an occasion to wear cufflinks that often), ive found that theres convertible cuffs nowadays, as in, they look like standard button cuffs, but the buttons can be hidden, and their holes can be used as placements for cufflinks. so all in all, its the best of both worlds, however it comes only as an option when getting a made to measure shirt so the price for the added versatility may be felt.
@bernardprice
@bernardprice 11 ай бұрын
Thanks Ash, great advice once again. I don't wear my French cuffs very often (only on specials occasions, usually with a suit and tie) but I do enjoy wearing cuff links and would love to have the confidence to wear them in less formal settings. They are the one simple thing that can make you feel a million dollars!
@themoderndandy713
@themoderndandy713 11 ай бұрын
I'm a devout cufflink-wearer. (Shocking, I know.) I would say I wear French-cuff shirts six days of the week. They accommodate practically all of my shirt-wearing needs - from white tie and tails to a cocktail suit, and from a blazer and cravat to the solo dress shirt and slacks. I find that cufflinks will always make my outfits more dandy, so why would I shy away? With that said, I have the luxury of not worrying about an office environment. Some executives look down on cufflinks, feeling they're a "hotshot" accessory that shows egotism. (I say that having an entire office kissing your boots because you're good at kissing your superiors' and business partners' boots is egotistical, instead, but what do I know?) I like the look of cufflinks with an open-neck shirt, but I prefer the look with cufflinks worn in a barrel configuration - with the cuffs in a round, folded-over style rather than the kissing style. This look works especially well with dark, wool slacks and a white shirt.
@richallan001
@richallan001 11 ай бұрын
I own three shirts that don't use links, two ghillie to go worth my kilt for casual, and one barrel cuff, my casual shirt lol
@adrianwalker2833
@adrianwalker2833 11 ай бұрын
I wear double cuffs with cuff links practically every day of the week, as I have such a multitude (c. 200) of cuff links. First I inherited them from my father and my grandfather and then I bought them for a song on flea markets and off Ebay. As they are not en vogue at the moment, you get them really cheap. And they are a good piece of jewellery that is not effeminate looking - an opportunity that should not be missed. You can wear them not only with a tie but with a cravat as well. Thanks for the advice with the washing-up liquid on cuffs and collar, that's absolutely new to me and I'm going to try that out.
@richallan001
@richallan001 11 ай бұрын
It's been a bit since I've watched a video Ash, taking a bit of a break from the socials. Will need to catch up. Another thought for resisting cuff stains is to starch them. Im a french cuff guy, but with the weather being hotter lately they've been rolled up to the top of the forearm. If rolled down sleeves, totally a tie, but with my more casual look lately I've sidelined the tie, mostly sporting chinos though.
@ronaldpoppe3774
@ronaldpoppe3774 11 ай бұрын
Ash, I agree with you about the French cuff with a tie. I do enjoy wearing cufflinks though. I remember seeing the cocktail cuff in Dr No. Really like your choice today. Great looking sport coat and cravat. Can't quite make out your lapel pin. I would also like to let you know I have been watching The British Dapper and enjoying his content. Thanks for the recommendation. Cheers Ron
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
Cheers Ron.
@jimmysmith1879
@jimmysmith1879 11 ай бұрын
Great video Ash very informative 👍
@cv97035
@cv97035 11 ай бұрын
For a corporate environment I would suggest to start with a couple of white and light blue, single cuff shirts that are fitted but not extra slim and with classic collar (not cutaway). For casual Friday one could replace them with Oxford button down, same colours.
@jrooney58
@jrooney58 11 ай бұрын
If you live in the US, there’s really no need to restrict the Oxford button down to casual Fridays. You can see Congressmen wear them virtually every day of the week in televised committee hearings. And, prominent members of the Department of Justice wear the button down collar to court frequently. Of course, cultures of particular workplaces might be more or less strict on these matters, so follow the lead of more senior members of your staff.
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
Hold the line sir - No ties with BD shirts.
@jrooney58
@jrooney58 11 ай бұрын
@@TheChapsGuide In the UK perhaps, but in the US, it is, and has been for some time, ubiquitous. From the halls of Congress to the federal courts and in the corporate world, OCBDs are worn with ties. The CEO of a brokerage firm in the movie “Margin Call” is depicted wearing a pinpoint OCBD with a tie and a conservative charcoal grey suit. And, in a world where the casual option is the go to even in business, I see no reason why the button down collar shouldn’t be worn.
@themoderndandy713
@themoderndandy713 11 ай бұрын
Interesting debate! I agree with Ash on the rule for myself, but I agree with my friend CV that this rule has become largely extinct in America. Some men who are into sprezzatura will even leave the collar buttons undone when worn with a tie. When it comes to my personal set of rules, button-down collars are a casual detail, worn with blazers and cravats but never a suit or necktie. I like following the traditional rule that they're a sort of bridge between an everyday dress shirt, which is worn for most daily affairs, and a polo, which is worn only for sports and the most casual of affairs.
@cv97035
@cv97035 11 ай бұрын
@@TheChapsGuide indeed no tie with BD shirts. But casual Friday means no tie! :)
@TheBritishDapper
@TheBritishDapper 11 ай бұрын
Great video Ash🙂
@ianjolley7457
@ianjolley7457 11 ай бұрын
Ashe I love French cuffs and cuff links however there is an alternative to the French and barrel. I have a number of shirts which have a barrel cuff but on the side of where the button is attached there is also a button hole alongside that allows this cuff be either buttoned or cuff linked. Keeping my options open to whatever suits the occasion.
@tonykelly3011
@tonykelly3011 6 ай бұрын
Hello Ash, I am an aspiring chap based far away in Japan . I have a fairly well chosen wardrobe of jackets and suits having followed the advice on your channel . I have a question about matching my suits with waistcoats as an edition to off the peg suits I already own . Could you perhaps do a video on waistcoats and choosing them to go with suits ? Best, Tony Kelly
@Bjartone
@Bjartone 11 ай бұрын
As long as the collar and cuffs match
@j.burgess4459
@j.burgess4459 11 ай бұрын
Cuff links are great! But (depending on respective metal hardness) they can have another unofficial name: "watch bracelet scratch-chainsaws". For example: Ash's two tone Rolex GMT and steel cuff links....not good at all!
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
You are not wrong sir.
@MrBurtonshaw
@MrBurtonshaw 11 ай бұрын
Hmmm! you've given me an idea! I have a couple of very cheep white french cuffed shirts I got in Next, for a funeral or something, before I turned my attention to decent shirts, I could use them as test beds . - Now, I have to shorten my shirtsleeves as I have a 50 inch chest and 18/18.5 neck and the arms are nearly always 2 inches too long. This involves removing the cuff and the two sleeve plackets, cutting off some of the sleeve proper , extending the slit and re attaching the three components. Now, the only difference I can see between a french/double cuff and a cocktail cuff is that the FC/DC has corners on the outer fold of the cuff. So, If whilst taking the cuff off a FC/DC shirt, I turn the cuff inside out, draw/design a CC shape sew and cut the shape and turn it proper sides out and iron... of course, I might need to add another button hole and two buttons (I think), but I could get a posh cocktail cuff for the price of two buttons and and hour or two's work! I could make a paper template to tune the shape. cheers, great video Ash.
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
That sounds like a challenge. Let me know how you get on. Good luck!
@MrBurtonshaw
@MrBurtonshaw 11 ай бұрын
@@TheChapsGuide ta, will do. Just shortened the sleeves on a grey 3 piece, very much in the style of Connery's in Goldfinger... it's a passable job, just. Wearing it to No1 daughter's graduation thing in Madchester next week. Paired with Eton (good brand) white with slightly visible lines of texture shirt, barrel cuff. Turnbull & Asser midnight blue, fine horizontal stripe texture silk(Gaberdine?) tie. Black Crockett & Jones cap toe Oxfords, white linen(fake) pocket square and Corgi Burgundy and black horizontal stripe Corgi socks. Everything other than the socks and underpants.... I let the chap before me pay the full new price. ;) Good of him. Shame I'm more Oddjobs build than Connery's..Oooh! also testing out a local tailoring family... picking up a stunning Burberry's blazer in Super 120s wool tomorrow that I've asked them to shorten the sleeves and bottom. cheers.
@MrBurtonshaw
@MrBurtonshaw 11 ай бұрын
@@TheChapsGuide Oh, forgot to say, tailors call the Cocktail Cuff a "Cow heel cuff".
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
@@MrBurtonshaw Sounds like a great outfit. I wish I had access to a good tailor/ess. My town is bereft of such resources.
@MrBurtonshaw
@MrBurtonshaw 11 ай бұрын
@@TheChapsGuide bespoke suit maker in Cardiff.... ! Not that far from you. Also a tailor in Neath with a proper alterations dept. I've emailed you a picture of the outfit. The shoulders are a touch large for me, not much, but slight divets..
@dakotarayprice
@dakotarayprice 11 ай бұрын
I i wear are French cuff shirt bule and white
@jimmydigital
@jimmydigital 11 ай бұрын
Looking forward to the next “am I a chap”
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
Not long to wait sir - the next one is along on Thursday!
@themoderndandy713
@themoderndandy713 11 ай бұрын
@@TheChapsGuide I certainly hope my turn is approaching! I'm excited to see myself up on the chap silver screen.
@jonathonshanecrawford1840
@jonathonshanecrawford1840 11 ай бұрын
I have some shirts that are barrel cuffs only, and some shirts that are both barrel and french (dual cuff). Best of both worlds? Could I recommend *dual cuff,* if a chap has only *one* white dress shirt? Of course later down the road, he should invest in more shirts, pending on the situation?
@santeri227
@santeri227 11 ай бұрын
Great video sir, thank you. What do you think if someone was to cut out his barrel cuff buttons and instead use cuff links? It looks a bit strange to my eyes.
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
I think wearing cufflinks on a barrel cuff is a touch pretentious.
@jonathonshanecrawford1840
@jonathonshanecrawford1840 11 ай бұрын
I have discovered I have in my white shit collection a *Saint Laurent* shit, it is a convertible! Both barrel and French cuff! Best of both worlds? The Saint Laurent shirt I discovered it valued around *$800-$1,000* (NZ$)
@jonathonshanecrawford1840
@jonathonshanecrawford1840 11 ай бұрын
Oh yes its made in Italy!
@dgraddy1359
@dgraddy1359 11 ай бұрын
Any thoughts about monograms on the cuffs or chest?
@TheChapsGuide
@TheChapsGuide 11 ай бұрын
If it’s discreet, I think it can be stylish.
@muffemod
@muffemod 11 ай бұрын
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