That's Classical GAS!! :-D

ha ha Sounds like fun!

Peter you are not even trying. He will def need the SB T/S lenses - for portraits nothing touches them. Then a Winder II - then a grip - then the the Prizm II - then the 180 Diamond - for portraits nothing can touch this other than see above. You will need the bellows hood. You will need a spare body for the occasional 'it can only be fixed at home with a hammer' lock ups; and if you have not even begun to consider the 500APO you can't call yourself an RZ user - I sold mine after doing around 500 or so weddings - (with a couple of F90X's from Nikon as 'candids' over my shoulder) - Our RZ's had over 10K rolls of film through them and my one top tip (actually for ANY 120 user) is have not one but two elastic bands around your wrist - as when you take the exposed film out and the wind blows away the little sticky tab......happened to me - I held onto that sucker for an hour and managed to continue shooting..... The RZ was only ever bettered in quality by the Fuji GX680III and if you like me thought that was a good idea then you like me are wrong - the RZ was far more useable in the field/location etc, was sweeter and far more beautiful as an object - it just looks right. Regrets? - of course - Going digital -is one of them - the Fuji GFX50s is a joyous and wondrous thing - but it leaves me cold - have fun all - stay safe.

@@nelsonclub7722 Unfortunately sometimes my hard trying end up stupid. ( Trade in RB system for a Rollei 6006 - big mistake - realized only after a tonn of assesory +++ ) Now I am going back from easy great digital to ridiculous stone ages . Latest purchase -24in red dot ARTAR and an insulated ice fishing tent ( living in Tennessee , and the two items very logically need each other's )🙂 I was close to get the Fuji GX 680 ll bicouse now it's dirt cheap - but thankfully I give up.

Had the google that. Ha ha

It's sturdy enough but then I've never used it for a heavy camera. Soon see!

I'm enjoying it Terry,

Thanks BigDog from New Orleans. 😁👍

Awesome! You'll get used to it.

the OM10 is a great camera. I had one to try out. It didn't have the attachment for manual shutter speeds so I had to use it in Auto. Soon after I purchased the OM20 which has manual shutter speeds built in.

Thanks. I still have it in the darkroom. And the other in the lightroom!

Ha Ha.

Thanks for that Konrad.

Ahh yeah. Found it. Thanks. I'm up and down like a yoyo reading these comments.

Cheers Kevin :)

Thanks. The 6x6 back seems to be far more than 67, bizarre

Also, the flap on the bottom that reveals the cog is for the motor drive to mesh to.

No way, she doesn't get invited when I take it out.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :-D

Lol..you beat me to it, was about to say the same.

Ohh I didn’t know that!- thanks

That Pentax is a good bit of kit.

So you have two cables in for long exposures?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's one cable release with two adjustable connections. When I push the cable release the first wire will fire the mirror, and about half a second later the shutter will be activated. I use it nearly for all my shoots on a tripod.

Thanks for the tip Peter. Appreciated.

Thanks Kevin. It appears to have no mechanical function, it just freely rotates and rotates with no resistance or feeling of it moving any parts inside the lens. In the Manual they call it a Lens Distance Scale (manual says) " indicating the furthest and nearest limits of sharpness for the aperture" I'm all open for suggestions as the more comments I read the more I find out something new. What lens of yours has that function?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Roger, when I wrote the comment I believed that m 110mm/f2.8 lens had the floating element; after doing lots of reading it turns out it doesn't ... apparently those lenses that have the floating element are likely to have "L-A" in the name.

Ahhhh that makes sense. I thought it may have been for oiling the gears or something.

Thanks. It says to close the shutter slide the T lever in the opposite direction. I've tried it with cable release lock on and off and the only way I can close the shutter is to slide the T lever back. It opens and closes on selected shutter speeds but not in Bulb mode. I can't get it to close in Bulb mode without pressing the T lever. Is that right?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Its a beautiful camera that I used throughout my career since 1987....... probably the best camera I've owned.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It literally says in the manual "To close the shutter, slide the T Lever in the opposite direction, exposing the letter ‘N’ (normal).." like you say. I have always done it that way on my ProII. I'd love to know how to get the shutter to close otherwise.

andrewford80 I was playing around yesterday and like you I have always pressed the T mode button to close the shutter. I found another way which is by cocking the shutter with the lever in the side. I noticed thought that if you look at the aperture blades the widen ever so slightly before closing. Try it out.

I apologize and I stand corrected. When I saw your reply this morning I got out the camera, shutter release, etc. and attempted to confirm my statement. And, I was wrong. Again, my apologies. Guess I should've checked before I sent out the comment in the middle of the night because I couldn't sleep. So to correct my previous statement. If you leave the lens in "N" and have your cable release in so that the orange ring shows around the cable release port on the lens and the camera is in "B" mode THEN the shutter will stay open as long as you are holding the cable release button down (which is when the lock obviously comes in handy if you're shooting timed exposures). But in that case you get the beep once it's held open for a certain length of time as you'd pointed out. I was wrong in my reading of the manual because I was relying on memory. I should've pulled out the camera and verified my statement before sending it. Once I tried it out again this morning I realized that was the feature about my Beloved RZ that always annoyed me. I'm sorry and I feel like an idiot for not checking before commenting. Love your channel and I again humbly apologize.

Thanks for the tip!

Shoot Film Like a Boss all good. I’ve had my rz67 for 4 years I didn’t know you don’t need a battery for T mode long exposure. 🤯. This is going to be perfect for cold nights. Cheers

Thanks for that!

Thanks again Tom. No matter how I tried I can't get the shutter to close in Bulb mode even with the cable release lock off. All other speeds it will open and close as timed, but not in Bulb mode. Am I missing a trick here?

Thats a shame.

Is that not how it works Tom? I'll have to have another look. Let me know.

Lol, I think I need to read the manual too! I still have my RZ but it's been a paperweight for many years now, mu memory of it's operation must be a bit jaded! These days I use the Fuji Gx680III for the odd roll of film I shoot. The method I described only works in 'N' mode so you didn't miss a trick, I did. As you say in 'T' mode the pin on the selector slider needs to be depressed after the long exposure to close the shutter. A point worth noting and I think i am correct on this one is. Once the T' mode is selected it doesn't matter what shutter speed the speed dial is set on, it is irrelevant as the electronic shutter control is disengaged. ie it doesn't even need to be set on Bulb mode. Apologies for leading you up the garden path!! One point worth remembering is. When in mirror up mode, as you know you screw the clable release into the lens socket. When you do so the collar the release screws into rises up out of the lens body to reveal a red line. if you don't see the red line clearly, the mirror up function may not work correctly. IMPORTANT, when you remove the cable release the socket should sink back down into the lens body. If it doesn't go back all the way so you can no longer see the red line, the mirror up function isn't disengaged properly and the shutter may not fire for subsequent exposures. If this happens screw the release back in, and as you unscrew it again, wiggle it about to assist the collar sinking back down. 999 times out of 1000 this doesn't happen, but the odd time it does. If memory serves me correctly this procedure is actually described in the manual. it strikes me as a bit odd that this is so, I suspect this minor niggle was discovered after lens production had started and is a quirk of design in the mechanicals inside the lens. Fear not!! It's a rare occurrence, but to avoid confusion it's best to adopt a check-it and see each time you use the mirror up function, just in case. One other point, when on shutter speeds 30th -1sec/ish I always always used mirror up. The mirror vibration on this camera is significant ad as you know affects shutter durations in that range, more so on this camera. it's even worse on the Fuji 680, like clashing an oven door,lol. Happy shooting, mate.

I figured that one out. The Mamiya 645, If I remember, you could shoot bulb as long as you liked.

It's an awesome camera with fantastic lenses. It's heavy! Mostly used as a studio camera. Still a joy to shoot outside or inside

They are called Safe Lights. Literally red lights that don't harm the light sensitive paper.

Most of my work is composed portrait so I've kind of got used to judging without the mask. Thanks.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Can you give me an estimate where on the glass? If not, I'll have to have a mask somehow.

That's my dream camera. I'm a simple man.

I'd probably go 6x6 first.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm thinking about going on a 6x6 back. I know that's probably your favourite framing, but I think a 6x7 back would allow allow you to crop the photo in the darkroom anyway and let you save time and money in the meantime, but not frames... (in my opinion btw) 👍

@@jacopotassinari I'd need an enlarger for 6x7.

Ha ha. I'm going to glue it back together.

There is a 6x6 back. They are expensive I've noticed. I'm not sure of the RB/RZ difference. I think the RB is older.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok. so i've done a bit of research. the RB is completely mechanical. no batteries required or electronics to fail. the RB is heavier because the body is more robust and durable. it does have electronic attachments like auto film backs and such. i think i am going to buy an RB Pro-SD if i can find a kit with a wide angle for a good price. have a good day! :D

Expensive

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss so far...talk is 12.5k.

I should add..that is 12.5k $au

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss i enquired in Australia.... 12.5k

Glad you enjoyed it

No I can't Gianni. I'll have to upgrade to an enlarger that can enlarge all sizes. Is there one?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I use the durst m607 to enlarge my GS-1 negs (the 6x7 camera nobody talks about)

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I imagined indeed :D think that a durst M800 is perfect for you. You can print up to 6x9 (with the right condenser). Or if you want to invest on a dream...durst laborator ❤️

Not for its intended use of studio work.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss fair enough then, when you said 1/400 I just thought "no shallow depth of field in the day".... just checked online, medium format film camera are getting very expensive, actually most of the film cameras that pop on KZfaq more frequently are 😭

I apologised to the Buddha and have to still love it apparently.

Actually it's the mic, it dips volume anything over loud. The Mirror slap is louder than on the video.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :O

😂😂😂 Imagine it. That's made me laugh Harry.