Ah, nice to see the video reached a loved user! And backed up what I said when pro's used them too. £1200! in 94! That was a lot. I find mine very reliable also, although I have no other glass for it as It's the only Nikon I have. Thanks for your comments Jon.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss They were very expensive cameras and I seem to remember that the Yen was doing well at the time. I also seem to remember that there was a three month wait for one if you could find a supplier.. They were definitely regarded as a pro camera for those that didn't need the industrial robustness of the F5. In fact when first introduced Nikon kinda shot themselves in the foot as many regarded it as better than the F4. I bought them because they were light enough to carry two with different lenses or films and the infallible metering. Never a dud frame. I pretty much made a living with them until the 2000's In my opinion the best bang per buck on Ebay at the moment.

@ki0ng Got mine off with isopropyl alcohol. Bit of elbow grease and all came off.

They are great cameras. If you are a tradesman or good with your hands it's not much of a problem. I used proper thin black leather that I scrounged from an upholsterer. Very thin about 1 to 1.5 mm thick. Remove the camera back from the camera. I used meths and scratching to get the old stuff off. Finger nails and a bluntish scraper like an old credit card, crappy job but do-able. Let the meths soak for a bit then scratch. . Thin leather stretches a bit so I cut a piece of leather about an inch oversized all round. Apply thin coat of good old Evo Stick on the camera back (keep the film window clear) and apply glue to leather . Important... Wait ten minutes for the glue to be touch dry, Starting from the centre working outwards stretch and stick the leather on avoiding bubbles and smooth it as you go. If you do the ten minute wait trick Evo Stick sticks like the proverbial. (For Americans "Evo Stick" is UK contact adhesive). You now have an oversized rectangle of thin leather stretched tight and stuck to the camera back. Let the glue fully dry. Couple of hours. You will be able to feel the film window through the leather. Make an indent with your fingernail or a blunt pencil tip. Stay away from whisky until you've done the next bit. Or if it's way too fiddly get the missus to do it. I managed it and I've got fingers like a blind cobbler. If you cock it up it's easy to take off and clean up for a second attempt. Grab a brand new, proper scalpel and carefully cut around the film window indent. Do the same for all around the edges. Try to do continuous cuts along each edge without stopping. Basically you're using the camera back as it's own template. All around the edge you will have a 1mm thick greyish, lighter color where you cut the leather, grab a black Stablo or thin Sharpie and make it black. Quick coat of boot polish and it looks classier than new. Also feels better in the hand. You'll lose all the idiot P mode stuff printed on the back, but a man of your calibre doesn't need all that anyways. It took me longer to type that lot than too actually do it. If you pull it off, do a KZfaq on it Cheers and keep up the good work.

@@jonjanson8021 Keep off the scotch lol. Thanks for the input Jon.

Cheers Joe. I'd love to play with the Rollei 2.8. one day!

Shoot Film Like a Boss The only difference between the 2.8 and the 3.5s (besides the stop) is the lens. It has the 80mm Schneider Kreuznach Xenotar, which has its own look. Unless shooting a tight portrait, or just wanting the bokeh, I mainly shoot between f/8-f/22 no matter the film speed. The 2.8 needs a good CLA before I put a single roll through it. Can think of only twice in the past decade I’ve opened the aperture full blown to f/3.5, which was to only grab the bokeh of the lens. Once you go Rolleiflex TLR, you never go back.

Thanks Youpa! that's my friend and his little girl ha ha

Thanks Craig! You've got some gear there! Keep watching and I look forward to hearing from you again!

Thanks Gianni!

Thanks Hans!

Ha, I forget myself sometimes!

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :-D Classic

Have fun!

Thanks Socrates. It's hard sometimes to find time and also ideas. This one took two days to complete! I enjoy it and I learn a lot from making them and also gives me reason to make prints! Thanks for your support 🤗

Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks Michael. Glad you enjoy it

Thanks Acid!

If the developer was at the top i wouldn't see the print unless I had a step ha ha. Good point though, I'll have to watch out for that! Thanks Stephen.

Sir just bought a used Nikon D700 as a back up for the 90S still in bloody Florida No BREXIT yet??

Thanks. Makes you wonder why they kept putting that rubber stuff on the back, unless the issues came out after many years after?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss that would be my guess too. I've read where people will take rubbing alcohol, and clean it off when it gets bad, but I can't speak from experience.

Thanks Nicos. Have you shown it on your channel?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Not yet. Im working on a different video to show it on here.

Look forward to it. 👍

F80 guts are good, but it’s overall a cheaply made camera with serious design flaws. I’ve had two die already, broken plastic door latches and “ERR” error.

I may look at some minoltas for a 35mm camera.

If you decide to go down the AF route, l highly recommend getting the Dynax/Alpha/Maxxum 7, since it supports the SSM lenses by default (the 9 had to have some factory upgrade in order to support those lenses), but other than that 700si, 800si are also very good and reliable cameras!

I've got two of them, for stereo shots. I really miss using them.

@@vladislavstanimirovic9650 Thanks a lot.!

I found it in a antique shop. It's proper old but works a treat. It's bakelight.

Thanks Beau. I like shooting it but it's not as fun as my mechanical bunch as I mentioned. But it's solid and I grab it if I need to shoot an event on film and have trust. Like a family party 😊

well said the motor drives are very good for event's

Not up to modern standards?? its auto focus is faster than my canon m6 with an equivalent lens.

Hey how about that autofocus? Saying that is not up to modern standards you mean it can do some mistakes for example aiming at body silhouette and you get focues the part behind person?

Thanks! 😃

Thanks Lars!

I used isopropyl alcohol to rub that goo off the back. You lose the icons and it leaves the back shiny black. Looks better.

Good shout but I couldnt see the developer if it was on the top tray. I've since moved the set up which you'll see in my latest vids Michael.

Ahh! Thanks!

Sb-26?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss SB-26 Nikon Speed Light.

@@gman922 where did you move to?

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss SW Florida the Epicurean and Cultural Void of Florida. Why hmm my America wife wanted to come home, we lived in North Chailey via Saudi Arabia wrong move.

@@gman922 interesting. You're not missing much in blighty mate!

Yes, whenever the meter is on (press the shutter half way) that strip light comes on along with the LCD display and the meter inside the camera. I don't see the relevance of it though! Here is a PDF for the manual www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_f90x_af.pdf

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks!

If you email me Sergio I shall help you roglowe147@gmail.com

I've not got a 100 but f90x of mine still works fine

Thanks Tony. I used XTOL 1:1 for 12 mins at 20°.

I haven't used DDX for years so couldn't really comment on that. I've been XTOL and D76 and for Street and gritty stuff I use Rodinol.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you Roger. When I send my HP5+ to the lab, the negs come back really nice, but when I develop at home, there's a bit too much grain.. I think i'll have to experiment with different developers! Thanks again mate 👍

Cheers. My easels are 10x8 max. I'm so used to the home made ones now. If one comes up though!

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yep, time to upgrade to an 11x14 easel.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Stick to what you do m8!! You can do so much more this way!!

It has a hot shoe for flash so with triggers yes

funny enough i've just bought some isopropyl alcohol to clean my cars mas sensor! Only used a few squirts and I was wondering what to do with the rest of it! So I may just have a go. I can handle losing the icons. :) Thanks.

Unfortunately even the F100 will not do matrix metering with manual lenses unless they've been chipped. You can leave the metering mode switch in matrix but if the camera can't read the focal length from the lens's circuitry it will fallback to center weighted on its own. You can see this by the center weighted icon in the lower left of the viewfinder when a manual lens is mounted. Off the top of my head the F6 is the only Nikon film SLR that will matrix meter with manual focus lenses since you can store a small library of focal lengths and select them when mounting the lens.

I never knew that that's very interesting it's also ended my slight interest in a F100 if one ever came my way, I think I will stick to the F90 for my Nikon fix. Thank you for the info Derek it's much appreciated.

I was shooting in manual mode on the wood. So I used spot as the black card looked light in the daylight. So I spotted on the bright areas of the wood. When I went to the training. Station I used aperture priority and used matrix 🙂

No, more likely a previous owner removed the sticky coating. You can use isopropyl alcohol.

@@joeltunnah Yet the symbols are still printed on the film door.

@@IainHC1 the symbols are printed on the door, not on the coating.

@@joeltunnah On the N90s but not the F90x

Ha, thanks. I did do as well. Darkroom is small enough without trying to maneuver around video cameras.

There is a switch for focusing. Manual, constant and something else I can't remember what it's called, auto, maybe. As long as I'm not in constant focus I can lock focus on my subject.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, constant focus is for object in motion I think, like car when moves it changes the distance from you and the focus is changing in the same time when car moves while you are aiming your camera on the car and then the single autofocus mode when you want to focus on the face/eyes and then change the frame moving the camera left or right and maintain the focus and sometimes my Nikon F601 sets the focus on the background instead of the face when I'm aiming someones face I don't know why is that. It is somehow not so accurate, like it can't "see" the distance between me and the person standing and chooses the background to focus and not the person 😂 Sounds crazy but it is not so accurate I wonder why 😁 I hope the F90X which I bought today will be good enough to use its autofocus mode without to be worried if the photo was made good after scanning the film 😁 I hate that when I see it's not sharp when I want. So I used every time manual mode but there's no point doing that every time in the autofocus camera 😂🙃

Yes

I think that would be difficult to do. You'd have half a roll exposed. You'd have to be careful how you stored it or you'd scratch the film. Then in total darkness load the film back into a camera and advance to the last frame you was on. I'd just cut it. I just made a video on this.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you so much!

Depends what you want to shoot. If I could choose 3 lenses for this camera I'd go for a standard 1.8 50mm, a 85mm and a 28mm. Older lenses. I only have this sigma for this camera

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you. I would have been more specific. I meant the model and mount information for lenses that directly fit onto the Nikon N90s without the need for a mount attachment. Sorry for not being clear the first time around. I'm relatively new to this arena. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I greatly appreciate it.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm having a difficult time figuring out which mounting systems allow full functionality of the cameras controls, which lenses offer only partial functionality and which lenses only offer manual function on the N90s.

Hi Jacasan. Congrats on shooting your second roll. I've only shot that film once and I had good results from XTOL. What was your Dev times in D-76?

Shoot Film Like a Boss thanks for answering, massive charts give me 6:03 min...I use the calculator they hay have for adjusting the time

@@jacasan2000 That sounds about right if it's a stock solution at 77f. Try another role shooting at 400 and develop at 1/1 20° for 13 mins. 5 slow inversions to start then 5 inversions every minute on the minute. And make sure your stop and fixer are also the same temp. You will see grain on UF 400 but only slight. Not massive.

Shoot Film Like a Boss thanks I will follow your instructions for next roll ,thank you very much

@@jacasan2000 let me know how it goes. you can email me. cheers

I haven't used the F801s but I read the autofocus is slower compared to the F90x. My one is reliable and still works a treat.

Thanks for the reply. Having read a bit more I think the F90x is the way to go.

@@SteveChick02 it hasn't failed me Steve. Easy to navigate settings. The back coating is a bit crappy but I got mine off after this video. Nice and clean now. I can't fault it.

Flash sync is 1/250.

Errrr... I've never seen that.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss If you select the matrix exposure, the symbol of this measurement when you press the shutter button, blinks. If you set any other metering method, the symbol of the selected metering does not blink.

@@vitaliydyachenko1847 try having a read of the manual. You can dowoad it here. www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_f90x_af/nikon_f90x_af.htm

Oh no!!

No. You'd need the mf26 back for that.

Hi Euan. Thanks for the comment. I find it quite easy to use and the layout simple. Could you comment what you find shocking about it. I honestly wouldn't know as I've never used any other Nikon Film cameras. Thanks.

I don't hate the F90X but I also prefer the F100's form factor to it. The mode button is located on the right side making it much more accessible. It can back button focus which I prefer. The grip fits my big hands better. DOF field preview on the F100 stops down to the aperture you have selected instead of stopping down all the way to minimum. They're both stellar cameras in their own right but given the choice I'd reach for the F100 just on the grip alone. The F90 does have proper metal latches for the back while the F100 uses plastic. I haven't broken the latch on my F100 but I have broken the latch on two different F80s. Taught me to be gentler when closing the back. The F100 also supports current VR lenses if vibration reduction is something you care about. Doesn't support the new line of electronic aperture lenses though, but neither does the F6.

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Nikon change the orientation of buttons each time the introduce a new model. I found this with me D7000 and D600! can be quite confusing , Obviously on film cameras it's expected but you would expect some consistencies with digital cameras and their button layouts..... and my (NEW (did I mention that I had a new n90s?)) N90s has more of a digital layout feel than any of my other Nikon's.

@@IainHC1 ahh, you got the n90s, cool! Have fun 👍

Painful? Lol. I enjoyed researching and talking about the camera and making the print. It wasn't that exciting for me as I've had the camera for years but I thought it deserved a mention. I learned stuff too. So I'm happy! And thanks for your support.