There ya go, black powder AR15 RIGHT? NA I want an Ingrown mk10 or mk11 Shoots. Mark from Oahu Said That! Aloha&Shaka I'm out...

That's Ingrem

You can make your own caps. But yeah, the shortages have only given me another reason to get a flinter.

Be sure to get your flints.

Oh what a time it was when ammo was cheap two years ago, nowadays prices are high thanks to the little sicko in Russia.

And I had close to 100 percent ignithio with those guns so I wouldn't mess with the touch hole if it's working good . I did have another gun with a screw in vent that I slightly enlarged it . I had spares .and it was greatly improved after that .I really enjoy your programs !!!!

What would you use to strip it?

@@osbornephoto1955 I use Liberon Fine Wood Stripper but any chemical stripper for wood will do. 3 or 4 applications may be needed, just don't let it dry on the stock, use PLASTIC scrapers and plastic brush on checkering, rinse well when you're done, let it dry and apply the oil.

Sounds like your right me. Accuracy by volume seems to have been the order of the day for british forces.

That’s the way Europeans fought at the time, mass against mass

​@@CrimeVidIt's also the way theajority of American soldiers fought from the Revolution to the Civil War-with adaptions of tactics from time to time.

Thanks for the info

I go over the whole gun with Acetone, so, hopefully, it is degreased...but you never know...

I’ll see what I can do

I could, but I'd still have to be careful of the prime, which would be moving in the pan when the frizzen is closed. If the touch hole was in the proper position, I could fill the pan with prime and close the lid and the prime will stay in place, and be properly positioned for fast ignition.

Amen to that Brother!

I’ll put it on the list

Yes I bought a pedersoli brown Bess new in. 2016 and it had some metal shavings in the lock . No big deal ,but you want to clean that out . I love the gun tho.

Can you guys please explain what the metal shavings do to the gun?

I got an Indian 1766 Charleville and after I got the shine off the steel and the brown paint off the wood, it looks fairly historically accurate. I did drill the flash hole level with the top of the pan. I can't wait to get it to the range.

An English flint

It says "GR" it just didn't show up well.

I'll find out in the future

I have not seen that happen in any gun smaller than a canon. So, I think you don't have to worry about it.

Maybe I'll do that at some point, but it will be awhile

They were very common on rifles

@@duelist1954 thanks. Just got a Pedersoli Trade Gun kit. Thinking of getting a Jaeger after it.

I think you are right.

He did. He also changed Baron von Steuben's drill book just a bit. Steuben's commands were "Make ready! Present! Fire!" in the European style. Washington changed that to "Make ready! AIM! Fire!" You can't hurt 'em if you can't hit 'em!

this is a bit long, so please bear with me: So you have to understand how most barrels were made 1850ish and prior (with the method still in use by very small, all-in-one BP gun-shops up to the end of the 1800's). Barrels were normally formed from strips or sheets of steel/iron that were hammered around a mandrel and welded together. in order to have the lightest barrel possible, it's important to have the barrel concentric around the bore (even wall thickness). With a hammer, it's easiest to form and measure a concentric barrel by making an octagon (8 equal flats are much easier to eyeball than a perfectly round barrel). Once the octagon is formed, you can then continue by tapping the corners into round, in many cases, gunsmiths elected to leave the barrel, or portions of it octagonal for aesthetic (and to a lesser extent, structural/layout) reasons (to finish an octagonal barrel, you must employ draw-filing, which is a labor intensive (read: expensive process). Unfortunately, most kits today are trying to make premium/luxury features common at a non-premium price (another example: patch boxes, most guns didn't have them due to cost and practicality (you have a shot bag, why would you need to store stuff in the gun?), but every new gun seems to have one... another example is swamped barrels, many non-premium guns had simple tapered barrels due to cost and weight). Reproductions today generally pull from an incredibly limited selection of original examples, and it throws off people's perception of what original guns were like (like how companies were only really producing "Hawken Rifles" in the 1970's). You also see almost exclusively long barreled full-stock guns, when barrel length, profile, fore-stock length, and caliber varied wildly (depended on the 5 w's). It's easier to cut dovetails in an octagonal barrel, however, you must maintain a thicker wall (also why reproductions are almost always ridiculously heavy). Most of the finer barreled guns had front sights and recoil lugs soldered on (the rear sight is back by the breech, where the barrel is thicker, so can be dovetailed). Drilling a touch hole and centering things is the same regardless of barrel shape, most people struggle because they don't center-punch drillings first and the bit skids around on a round barrel more.

It depends on what the cause is. If the sear is binding on the wood...that's easy. If the sear spring is too strong, that is less easy, but fairly safe. Ditto mainspring. If the sear engagement is the problem, you had better know what ou're doing before messing with it.

You can only do so much after a gun is built. You can lighten the sear spring a little and you can stone the full cock notch and the sear, but there are limits. The way to get a light single trigger is to build the gun so the pivot bar of the trigger is only a quarter of an inch in front of the sear. Ideally, the pivot pin should be higher than the sear. You can get quite a light trigger pull that way.

@@duelist1954 Thanks!

The woolery

Yes, will do in a future video

@@duelist1954 Glad to hear :)

I don't know much but I can guarantee that nobody ever got 1,800 fps with a Brown Bess. The bore is .75 but the English used a .69 ball. The extremely loose fit means a ton of gas will blow past the ball even with the paper patching. Combined with the heavy ball means you probably are not even breaking the sound barrier.

@@originalamerican9396 Yeah. I have also heard that they are so heavy that they don't crack the sound barrier. Would be nice to know if someone has ever chronographed one.

@@santerinurminen7909 I use 120 grain loads under a .69 caliber ball in mine(historical standard for not only Britain but Prussia and their German allies as well, 1723 and 23/40 Potsdams were the same caliber generally) and there’s no way that ball is going 1800 fps. I don’t have a chrono but if I had to guess I’d say 800-950 fps absolute maximum on a perfect day. They’re very heavy and slow moving projectiles.

@@Captain_Frank_AbagnaleThank you. Have you ever tried patching the ball? If you have: have you felt that the tighter fitting ball has any real effect on the muzzle velocity and accurasy?

That's TV from the 60's for you, and chances are they were using Hollywood "Trapdoor" imitation flintlocks anyway!

The ball blows through the paper as it exits the barrel

@@duelist1954 Thanks Mike!

One gun shop said only worth 150

No. Some were converted to percussion before the 1853 Enfield came out though but no rifling for the Brown Bess. However very few were used. The Tower of London caught on fire in 1841(?) and the majority of their stock of converted and non converted muskets were destroyed by it

@@Captain_Frank_Abagnale thanks for replying. Great info to know

No. That is news to me.

@@duelist1954 Thank you very much