Hi, I'm a fitter and turner from the old school of '58, and many years ago I worked in a shop that still had flat belt driven lathes.....and a few with screw on chucks. One lathe had a chuck screwed on so tight it defied all means to remove it. Simple solution, which I have used for many years on all screwed on chucks, is to use a piece of aluminium bar set upright on the bed next to the chuck face at the back and under a jaw sticking out horizontally from the edge of the chuck. Then you just rotate the belt pulley back a few inches and rotate it to bang the underside of the chuck jaw down on the aluminium.....a few light blows is all it takes........the shock will break the chuck loose after a couple of blows. This will not damage the chuck or the lathe bed as it's at the strongest part under the chuck and the aluminium won't score the bed either. I use this method for all screwed chucks as you don't need to lock the spindle because you need to be able to swing the belt pulley and bang the chuck down against the ally bar to get the chuck loose. BTW, my lathe at home is a 1930 flat belt driven Colchester Bantam with a screwed on chuck and this is the only practical and safe way to remove the chuck.

9 years later saving the day! Had a stuck 10” atlas chuck. Hammer and key took it right off. That’s after trying so hard I hurt my shoulder. Haha.

Thanks again Mr.Pete!! You are the best!

Great video. I did a search for this video as I have two stuck chucks. A 3 jaw on my Atlas 10" and a 4 jaw on my just purchased Logan 10"

I watch at least one video a day of yoirs Mr Pete. great videos man!

Thanks for the video. I would not have thought of some of those ideas to remove a stuck chuck. Joe

I am your great fan Sir. Thank you so much for the ideas and techniques. All the very best for future endeavours. Best Wishes.

Great ideas there Mr. Pete and your Grand Finale is an excellent brainstorm!!

I will try everyone of these wonderful Ideas !!! I have tried to get my chuck off my SB for some time now Thank you very much mrpete!

Hex stock and an impact driver, sooo simple but soooo genius!! Worked Great! Thank you

You included many great ideas that I have also used when working on vehicles and other machines to hold on while I was attempting to remove stuck parts! Thanks for another fantastic video!

On my English Denford Lathe there's a couple of flats on the spindle at the rear of the chuck, you would think that all lathe's would be produced with a method for holding it. Thanks for the video's tubalcain, far better than watching the tv!

Hi Lyle, Been watching your video's for the past couple of years and have certainly found them very informative and interesting. My qualifications are in commercial diving and electronics, though I have done a verity of machining. Keep up the good work!

Thank you for making this video. I used it to get the chuck off a myford ML10 with a v belt and vise grips, air socket gun and a bolt with a nut welded on (in loo of hex stock). It wasn't rusted on fortunately.

I'm working on refurbishing a 1944 Sheldon lathe and have this problem in spades. Thank you so much for the good advice.

Thank you - I don't have a stuck chuck, but did (as you might have said) enjoy the video vicariously.

Outstand! Your videos are always so helpful. Cheers

Thanks again Mr Pete... I'm helping to teardown an Atlas that had sat outside a machine shop at a military base (buddy of mine is trying to resurrect a 'boat anchor' of a tool).... I was looking for a way not to destroy the gears... I told him I'll check tubalcain's YT page. Great tips.

Interesting bunch of choices. So far putting my Craftsman in back gear has gotten the chuck off with no damage. Thanks for the video.

Great ideas mr pete! Thanks for sharing!

This helped me to get my old 1976 Lantaine 350 chuck off, many thanks.

Thanks, it worked again.... you have such a great videos.

great info. many people will benefit from this video.

I used the hex stock and impact gun method to remove a very stuck chuck yesterday. Thank you for posting this!!

This sort of problem solving is the funnest part of having a workshop and of watching shop videos, clearly you have had some fun thinking about this problem.

Engaging the back gear, putting a wrench on a jaw and giving light taps worked for me. I appreciate the info. If I had hex stock I would have preferred that over putting force on a single jaw, but mine also wasn't as "stuck" as I thought. Thanks once again!

Thank you for all your explanation , very helpfull.

Thanks!! Impact gun worked for me on a 1930s lathe chuck/faceplate. I didn't have any hex stock but a fairly big car suspension bolt double nutted and locked in the chuck jaws worked perfectly.

I just did this yesterday on a Craftsman, before seeing your video. I used vise grips to pinch the V belt together as close to the pulley as possible. Once locked on, I levered up on the pliers to squeeze the belt tighter on the pulley. it worked great.

thankyou @mrpete222 , i was struggling from 6 months to unmount my lathe chuck lol, after i see your video it came off in 6 mins 😂😂😂, my lathe did not have a spindle lock so i used the belt strap wrench to jamm up the pulleys then putting a flat stock in my chuck , i gave it hammer impacts it came off in the 4th impact 😎so smart of u sir.. 🤗

Went to work at a place with a 40"x58" gap bed and a 12' bed. The face plate was stuck on the spindle and head been for decades. It took a variant of the last method, penetrating oil, heat, and a great amount of muscle. I locked up the flat belt pulley with every cloth inside belting threaded through a slot in a 2x4 and bea Fed against the wall. The threw the bore bolt was used to compress the thread tension on the face plate. The penatrant and heat were used to dislodge the rust and provide a couple of thousandth of expansion. A good trip on the face plate and several (20or30or so)

Mr. Pete, After 45 years of self employment I am endeavoring metaphorically to take High School Metal Shop to update my skills with an Atlas F54 lathe. I found a project lathe on Craigslist and have just finished building a bench on which to rest the lathe. I intend on taking the entire lathe apart and realized the very first step would be to remove the chuck. While I haven't yet tried to remove the chuck, I suspect the chuck will be a challenge. I found your videos on a simple search and found myself spending an inordinate amount of time watching you explain complicated mechanisms in easy to understand language. The skills you possess are a treasure in this globalized economy. I fear that these skills will be lost in this generation of millennials and be very difficult to reclaim. The age old ways of father teaching the son the secrets of his trade are gone and has been replaced with an educational system that looks down on skills that result in dirty fingernails, and promote those skills that result in shuffling papers. Your videos are tantamount to the monks in the Middle Ages recording history. In these uncertain times of virus and self quarantine the skills of a master craftsman are revealed. Perhaps in the foreseeable future master craftsmen in all trades will once again be appreciated. Thank you for your efforts in this regard. Tubalcain, the first artificer of metals.

Thank you for the showing...good tips.

Those are some good ideas and when I saw the hex bar with impact wrench I thought I would finally get me chuck off. Unfortunately, no luck. Then I put the crescent wrench on the hex bar and a pipe over that to extend the handle. With a pipe wrench gripping the shaft behind the gears and pulley, the chuck came off. I honestly never thought that chuck would ever come off. Thanks Tubalcain for your ideas and great videos.

I just got a nice old Logan 815 and needed this today! What a great resource. I tried a piece of hex rod in the chuck first and locked the back gear and didn't want to risk breaking teeth. I did use a chain strap wrench but wrapped the pulley with nylon webbing and a rubber shoulder pad from a laptop bag strap (first time I ever used the strap) The chuck came off with no damage to teeth or pulley.

Extremely helpful! I was able to use your tip re: clamping hex stock (in my case, an estate sale straight Allen wrench handle that I didn’t even realize I had). Impact driver didn’t work, but I ended up removing the back gear, soaking in PB Blaster overnight (with the headstock vertical to allow gravity to help it drip down), and using a 25” breaker bar from Harbor Freight. My spindle gear was already shot, so I used a regular channel lock to hold it and keep the spindle from spinning. Headstock on the floor, left foot on the channel lock, and both hands on the breaker bar. It felt a little bit like Twister, but it worked. Thanks, mrpete222!

Tonight, I removed the 3-jaw from my 1950 vintage Logan by first trying a hex wrench and turning the chuck over against the wrench which hit the end of a pipe on the floor. When that failed, i tried engaging the back gears and using a crescent wrench on a jaw. It came right off, first try! Thank you Mr Pete.

I took a small diameter nylon rope and wrapped it around the pulleys a few wraps on my 6 inch Craftsman lathe. I used a screw driver to twist it tight and a pipe wrench on a piece of round stock in the chuck and finally got my chuck off. I got the basic idea from this video though. Thank you Mr Pete for all the informative and entertaining videos!

had heard if impact tecnique.being used thanks for confirming that thought was urban legend ....been pamperd in shops with the cam lock chucks...thanks again for your videos

Strap wrench and punch with hex handle worked great. Thanks!

The last solution with the left hand thread will also work with a righthand thread if you can hold it from the chuck end of the spindle. Maybe RH all thread with wahsers/nuts at either end, if you can fit a socket thru the chuck. I think. Great video! Im working on getting the chuck of a 1887 Barnes 4 1/2.

I like the impact method for chuck removal. A very safe way for removal. Nice job too.

Hello mrpete222, I had a stuck chuck, tried all your solutions. But it came down to as a last resort, removed the chuck as the back plate was the stuck part. I ended up turning it off, being careful not to damage the spindle threads, MY FIRST CHIPS. Then I ordered a back plate from LMS. Had to drill the 3 holes, and turn the register to fit the chuck. All with the help from you mrpete222. A lifetime subscriber of yours.

Thank you! I just bought an old, small lathe and the chuck was stuck. I had been beating, prying, praying and pleading to get the thing off without breaking something. I tried the impact wrench trick and after several seconds on a large coupling nut (i didn't have hex stock) it came off. Again, thank you!

thanks buddy your advise really helped me out. I had a stuck chuck on my atlas/craftsman 12 inch lathe. I tried all the usual things. Kroil and heat gun and I even put an impact gun on a piece of hex stock chucked in the jaws. I finally removed the back plate of the chuck and used your sacrifical belt deal. It slipped at first but I gave it a liberal dose of belt dressing, kroil on the threads and heat. After three times, the chuck came off. Next I have to get a three jaw chuck with inside jaws. I have a 4 jaw as well. I am about to remove the apron as I think the 24 t gear in the traverse mechanism has lost a few teeth. I also have a Monarch C with 16.5 swing and 50 inch between centers. Trying to get the Atlas in good conditon before trying to turn a cannon barrel on the Monarch. I am building a Civil War 2.25 inch Mountain rifle. I shoot in the N-ssa in cannon competition. I am on a few cannon crews but want my own gun.

Your video is excellent. We had a 10” Atlas lathe that we couldn’t break loose the chuck. We opened the chuck jaws and put a Propane torch to heat the inside of the chuck for a few minutes and were able to break the chuck loose after that

Thank you. I bought an old lathe and watched this to learn how to take off the chuck. My solution was to wedge under the pully (like a rubber wedge).That with a product called "Nulon Shift Ya Bastard". Sorted.

very informative, i have an old atlas 10f with true back gears that i'm restoring. the 3 jaw chuck was stuck when i got it but it came off using an adjustable wrench on the jaw and just gripping the pulley by hand. i do like the sacrificial belt and pipe idea if i ever run into this problem again i will do just that

thank you sir very interesting tips... thanks for sharing..

Nice job on your videos, Take the cut belt run through a pipe a little farther. Use two pipes held together with a coupling. Get it as tight as possible by hand, grip the belt like you suggested with a vise grip or other way, now partially unscrew one pipe from the coupling to get the grip even tighter.Joe

I have had this issue a few times (not just on lathes) and it is a real pain. An impact works great, and the last solution works great. For an Atlas, I tapped a morse taper sleeve for 3/4 thread rod, cut flats in the other end of the rod, and used that. Just barely fit through the chuck, and I didn't have to worry about lefty thread, as it didn't take a lot of draw-up to set the taper tighter than a gnats hat. On a larger lathe (24", maybe? turn of the 20th century vintage), we disassembled the chuck to get to the back plate alone and were able to free it up once we had access to the threads from the outside end. A little lube, a little heat, a litle tap. Thought we were going to need to slit the plate at the threads, but didn't. The plate (no chuck, just bolt on jaws) came off the 48" with just lube and a hydraulic jack, thankfully. Learned the hard way to NEVER have back gears or drive pin engaged if it doesn't come easy.

Mr Pete, I just watched your mole problem video and the comments were disabled, I'm sure it was because of hippy tree huggers so I definatly understand. I just wanted to tell you how we got rid of them one summer. We ordered a can of carbide for mine lamps and made little holes in the tunnels and dropped a few crystals every couple feet. We didn't add any water just the moisture in the ground slowly releases the gas over the next few days and they leave. I don't think it kills them but they left our yard, probably just went to the neighbors. Please don't ever stop making videos for us, I'm learning much much more from you than I ever did in school, thank you very much.

Useful stuff, thanks mrpete and others. I have recently had my ancient Chekka lathe stuck, and finally unstuck and I have a few comments. 1) Although I have swapped between my chucks for many years with no problem, I turned a dozen 2" x 2" hard oak sticks (each about 2 ft long) down to have round cross-sections using a 4 jaw. I know I'm not supposed to machine wood in a metal lathe but I have done so for many years. Anyway, the periodic tightening and relaxing of the mounting thread as the corners of the wood were taken off, must have properly stuck the chuck. 2) First I tried a strap-wrench on the largest of the cone pulleys, and an 18" adjustable ("Crescent") wrench on the jaws. This didn't work as the strap-wrench couldn't hold the cone pulley from turning. Oh I forgot to say that I didn't use the backgear as it was cast iron. 3) next I got a bigger strap wrench on the cone pulley held down by a chain to the base of the machine. I removed the 4 jaw and bolted a 3 ft angle iron to the chuck mount. I struck the angle iron with a 14 lb sledge. no luck as the strap wrench still slipped. 4) Next I made a 1/4" plate shaped to bolt to the side of the cone pulley. I drilled and tapped 3 screws (1/4") to fasten the plate to the cone-pulley, and prevented the plate turning by inserting a scrap timber block resting on the lathe gearbox. I then attached a 40 kg weight to the end of the angle iron and left if for a few days. Still no movement. Oh, penetrating oil etc. 5) Then one of my brothers-in-law came over and lifted and dropped the weight about 2 ft, Nope. Then lifted about 4 ft. Success ! The moral for me is that periodic shocking caused it to lock up pretty tight, and a massive shock burst it free. Has anyone tried a big flat plastic washer between the male thread of the spindle and the female thread of the chuck backing plate ?

Great info I hope I never have to use. One thing around metal work, you can almost always make a tool, like the one with the left-hand thread, to get done what needs to be gotten done.

A big like for you sir... Thanks

I purchased a Craftsman 101 lathe that had a Jacob's chuck which was on pretty tight and I was at a loss on how to get it off. I used a large Allen wrench to hold the chuck, engaged the gears and which a quick jerk, it came loose! Thank you!

Great Video, Mr Pete! I had the 3 jaw chucks on both my 9" adn 10" South Bend lathes stuck on. They probably had not been removed in 30-40 years. I was able to lock the back gears, and using the hex bar and impact wrench on one, and the adjustable wrench applied to one of the 3-jaws on the other - get the chucks removed. After I removed them - I cleaned the threads on both spindle and chuck, and when I reapplied them - I applied a liberal coat of anti-seize to the threads. I've never had an issue removing them since.

is a good video for a great trick thanks for teaching us

Great video! I had a stuck chuck that had been on my Logan 820 10" lathe for decades. Slight rust all over the lathe. I tried everything to get it off. I secured the spindle, and would soak the threads with Kroil daily for a couple of weeks. I chucked up a long 4' tube and hung a bucket on the end. I then filled the bucket with all manner of scrap, lead, etc and let the chuck support the weight. Left it for a couple of weeks and would squirt Kroil every other day. That trick didn't work for me (I should have used a longer pipe - more leverage). I finally decided to chuck up a piece of hex and use my impact driver. At 11:00 PM one night, I couldn't find any large hex in the shop. Wait, my Delta wood/metal 14" band saw has a 7/8" guide piece that will work! I first "bumped" it in the tightening direction hoping to break the rust, then went all out counter-clockwise. Came off without a hitch. It worked great!

If your lathe has an exposed spindle flange behind the chuck (be SURE that flange is a machined part of the spindle!) you can wrap that with one wrap of emery cloth secured by electrical tape. That's for traction. You can then use a split-style bearing puller and crank that down firmly on the flange. (Some folks make a custom clamp which is fine too.) You can keep the split puller from rotating by blocking it with some wood or aluminum, then use the "hex bar in the chuck" method to unscrew the chuck. My generic older Taiwanese belt drive lathe didn't have any better options and the chuck was firmly stuck, but this got it loose with little fuss. I used some 2" steel hex welded to a 3/4" drive socket and a three foot ratchet handle.

Hex stock worker for me on a Southbend 16”. Thanks a million.

My SB 9C chuck was stuck solid. I avoided any method that stressed the chuck jaws including the hex nut with wrench. this is what finally worked and is simple. I got 10 ft long 1/8” wire rope clothesline vinyl coated. I installed a loop clamp at each end. Put one end of loop on spindle head disconnect pin, then extended it over to the large adjacent pulley. Wrapped it around the pulley about 4 or 5 times and anchored the other loop end around something stationary below lathe. This puts very little strain on the pin mentioned above since the wrap holds itself tight. Now on the spindle chuck where the indentation for the chuck jaws track is accessible, use a aluminum/soft piece of stock and give it a sharp tap with hammer in correct direction--making sure all slack is out of the wrapped cable. It popped loose first try.

This guys sounds like James Stewart from the good ole days

Very good ideas , On my old 22 inch lathe my flat belt went strait up to the transmisson above, so it way easey for me to move the belt in order to rotate the spindle in reverse by knocking one of the jaws on peace of steel between the jaw and the flat part of the bead the chuck would come loose , then I used wood on the bed and a chain block to take it of the lathe...

I recently purchased a South Bend "9 model C with your videos I will be able to restore this lathe Thank YOU for all of your post.. My lathe bed does not have South Bend on the bed as most do. It has an inventory tag with J.P. STEVENS , not sure if this was the gun manufacture, or the textile maker? PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT POSTINGS

I use one of those small rubber strap wrenches on my little Zyto lathe. 7/8" spindle (9tpi). I use hex bar in the chuck and try to snap it loose. You definately need some "snap" when you go at it. Always Oil the threads when you install the chuck!

Very timely. Refurbishing a SB 10K made in '56. Doesn't look like the chuck has been off in awhile. Hopefully one of these methods will work for me. Thanks.

My friend Grady got a really cheap buy on an Atlas lathe that had a stuck chuck. A couple of hundred $.cheap. He applied continuous torque to the chuck with a big wrench by means of a big wrench and a long piece of pipe. He used a small come-along on the far end of the pipe and just let it sit for a few days. Keeping it in traction like this finally did the trick. He said the daily heating and cooling in the shop helped to break it loose..

I have an older King Canada lathe. When I got the lathe, it had some gear teeth in the bottom of the casting from the back gear. To make the chuck easier to get off, I built a "wrench" by welding a large hex nut on one end of a length of 1" square stock for the three jaw,, and a short end of larger square on the other end for the four jaw chuck.. I can tap that "wrench" with a hammer, or if things are very tight, there is a locating collar that is fastened to the spindle near the pulleys. A pipe wrench on there usually lets me screw the chuck off easily. I plan to build another sleeve like the locating collar with etiher a pin hole or maybe flats or hex to hold the spindle.

Chain grip is usable with a nice thick rubber protector pad to keep the chain from damaging the steel. Can also be used on a pulley, though grip is not as good as the v belt. Old serpentine belt is a good source of the right fabric backed rubber, and is free at the local mechanic from the bin.

Great range of suggestions Mr Pete222. Great ideas, I like the idea of using a strap wrench to hold the pulleys firmly, if adequate grip is not possible could you consider using a lorry ratchet strap wrapped around the largest gear and back on itself to self tighten the other end attached to the lathe casting? (I don't know if you can move the gear that it engages with sufficiently out of the way). Some lorries have left hand wheel nuts on the left side of the truck- might be another source? When using an impact wrench occasional short bursts of forward motion mixed in with long busts of back off motion can sometimes help to break the initial break out of a stuck thread.

The leather strap wrench you made up could be wrapped around the bull gear, and the lock pin pulled, in conjunction with the impact wrench. I thought of this because I learned the hard way that Zamak parts don't like shock loads. I like your made-up method best, though. Even though it would probably only be used once, I would paint it a disgusting, eye-catching color, and hang it on "The Wall of Shame" next to the timing gear(s) and chain I didn't replace when I did the (first) valve job on the old Dodge. Shoulda hung up the push rods along side it, too. Tom

I have a little sheeline and it doesnt even have a single gear in it. I recently forgot to put some oil on the chuck and it got siezed. I used it every day... In the end I ended up holding the spindle by the other end with vise grips (Soft jawed ones) and i used the chuck key to get the chuck out with a few taps of my brass hammer... Works great for small lathes!

Good information....

I removed a really sticky 4 jaw chuck with a 3 foot long peice of rectangle thick metal for leverage in the jaws. I got the metal by magnet fishing in our local canal. I did engage the backgear because it needs replacing with missing teeth, possibly caused by somebody trying to unjam the chuck previously.

Great Info . Thanx

thanks i needed this vidio the other day now may i never have this problem again

How the cone pulley and small pinion gear connected. Bigpulley and bull gear is having a pin. Also bull gear is having some key to spindle..

I thought I had a stuck chuck when I bought my Boxford lathe. I spent a good while working out how to get it off. I suddenly noticed there was a grub screw in the back plate adjacent to the spindle threads. With a little investigation I realised that a previous owner had put a grub screw and copper peg in the hole to lock the backplate to the spindle to stop it spinning off in reverse. Problem solved. I always pull the chuck from my lathe and dividing head when not in use. I fit a loose spindle thread protector in place of them. Also never leave your collett holder in your lathe or mill permanently it will get stuck. Great solutions there mrpete at least one of them should fix any stuck chuck problem.. regards from the UK

This is funny because I just went through this with my Atlas\Craftsman lathe. I had a chuck that did not use a wrench, the back spun to tighten the jaw. We would use a rod and hammer in a hole to tighten it! So after 20 years of this, you can imagine how tight the chuck was. Well the worst thing happened, the chuck broke and would not not open or close! I tried all the tricks that Mr. Pete and others have mentioned from using a 3/4 inch impact and nothing worked. So I knew that unless the chuck came off, the lathe was scrap. So I proceeded with desperate measures...I had an easy out, the right size that fit in the back of the spindle. Then getting my oxygen acetylene torch heating up the chuck and a 12 inch crescent wrench on a jaw and another 12 inch wrench on the easy out holding the spindle in place, a 20 lbs sludge hammer with 2-3 heavy blows, and a miracle occurred...the chuck came loose. Just to remind you, these were extreme desperate measures, and my lathe survived.

Thanks maybe i can get the chuck off. Thanks alot. Jerry

i'd add the use of some loosening spray -- wd40, or some other, or even some diesel fuel that works the best for me. to hold the spindle, i'd use the ratchet strap. common sense needs to be present in such a task in plenty. thank you, mr. peterson, for the video and for the topic. -toly

not a stuck chuck, but an interesting solution to prevent such, and to allow effective safe reverse use, my lathe is an early emco maximat v10p, it has a threaded nose but the back plates are split with a cap screw to lock the integral collar to the spindle, this also means that the backplate never gets tight, repeatability is also not an issue...... kind regards from the UK daryn

hi mr Pete i read in an old book the way to remove a stuck chuck was to insert a piece of wood between one of the jaws and the back vee way of the bed then put the motor in reverse select back gears and just keep flicking the button on and off till it broke loose

If you have a stuck 3 jaw chuck but do not have any hexagon stock, could a bolt with 3/4 head be chucked up then use a wrench on the bold head?

I have a question about my chuck it’s marked 498 on the chuck and the jaws it’s really worn (belled outward) I’m not set up to mill them myself is there anywhere I can buy replacement jaws thanks for all you tips

Our 10" Sphere (Atlas copy) had a stuck 4 jaw, various attempts over 4 months failed to shift it, used every method except dry ice, nothing worked. I therefore became violent, removed the chuck from it's backplate, used a 1mm thick cutting disk in the angle grinder to cut a flat across the bottom of the circular plate and a deep V in the top, removed the spindle from the machine (Dead easy as it has Timken bearings.) put the flat I'd just cut on an anvil, a 1" cold chisel in the V and two hits with a 7lb hammer split the plate. No damage to the spindle. New backplate £8. Cause of problem, deeply embedded grit between backplate and spindle retaining face, everybody now reminded to clean everything carefully when changing chucks. Spindle got a long overdue strip down as well.

.they make a belt wrench that you can hold the FanDuel or pulley with it and then tap the cut loose it works really great some of them looks like they have a piece of fan belt for the strap that holds

using the v belt tap thread the inside of the pipe on one end, screw the pipe onto the v belt to gain a tight frictional purchase.

Strap wrench....Vise-grip makes a nice clamping unit with an 18" chain on it.....should be great for this application....

For those who would search for a left hand thread, you have one on a pair of hand screws( woodworking clamps with two screws with handle on each screw) where one nut is left handed. You have some left and screw and nut on a scisors type for a car jack...

Mr. Pete if all else fails, and as a last ditch effort, a pipe nipple extractor may hold the headstock. You will almost surely scare the inside of the through hole in the headstock, but if it is all you have.Great video as always Mr. Pete

Not sure if this was the right way, but I used a wooden wedge between the gear and gear case. I turned the spindle until the gear teeth dug into the wood. It worked for me to get the chuck off.

Your last method could possibly be used to also restrain a chuck on a threaded spindle nose so that you could run the spindle in reverse without fear of the chuck unscrewing. Of course, that defeats ‘thru-spindle’ capability. I will have to investigate this possibility on my Atlas and South Bend lathes.

Get two of the rubber strip oil filter/ grips anything "wrench" - it's a plastic handle with a flat rubber with two attachements on the same end, one is permanent the other slides thru a slot. If you have two of those you can hook one to the pulley area and the other over the large diameter area of the chuck, then just grab the two handles and push them in opposite directions.

The chuck was stuck on my Rockwell when I first got it. I tried many of these things. Impact had no luck Long bars etc.. I had success using an air hammer. Came off in about 10 seconds once I tried that. Open jaws and hit to the out side for better leverage. Keep the thread cleaned and oiled to prevent it from happening again.

My father came across a South Bend lathe which he mounted and fixed up before passing it onto me. the broken teeth in the gears he drilled a hole or two a bit wider than the base of the gear before inserting a friction fit steel pin which he then filed to the shape of the rest of the teeth. It seems to work fine.

whats the best replacement belt for these?

I just pulled my Lathe out from a corner in my shop after just under a year of un-use. Currently it has a four prong chuck that is about an inch wide stuck on the spindle (I'm not sure if its a threaded or cone connection, as there is a punch hole but also threads on the outside of the spindle). I've tried everything I can think of to remove it but nothing is working. Thoughts or suggestions?

Ok thanks mr pete