Thanks, Brian. Though I must admit that I think often about how to get more space.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks. Very perceptive of you. You are correct. I have a degree in mechanical engineering.

The walkout feature is definitely nice. I wish mine took up more of my basement. Could definitely use the space.

Thanks. That's exactly why I did it. My old miter station had a removable fence but I hardly ever used it because I preferred to have the space. So this time I just ditched it and went with an embedded track for a stop block. Like this much better.

Thanks for taking the time to comment. I hope you have a great Christmas.

Thanks.

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment.

Thank you very much!

Wow! Thanks for the great comment.

Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks, John. I am actually working on moving my shop into a new space. So I should be adding content about that process followed by a whole new shop tour for the new shop.

Thanks.

You're welcome and thanks for the subscription.

Geaux Tigers!

Thank you. I have since moved to a new shop. I want to make a new tour video for the new shop.

Thanks, Blake.

Thanks!

Thanks and you're welcome.

Geaux Tigers!

Thanks.

Thanks, will do!

Thanks for the comment and subscription. Have a blessed day.

Yep. I didn't talk about it in the video but I did try to do stuff when building the walls and ceiling to help with noise. It isn't soundproof, but I can work down there without it bothering anyone. And, of course, dust. I can still remember years ago when I was building my first miter saw station in the basement with a circular saw and no dust collection. After making a few cuts, I stood up and looked around and there was a haze in the air from all the dust. Ever since then, I do everything I can to remove as much dust as possible at the source. Take Care.

Thanks. I'm glad that was useful to you. It was borne out of a lot of frustration. I originally just had the support blocks bolted to the sides of the cabinets. I was pulling my hair out trying to get the bolts just tight enough to hold the blocks in place but loose enough to allow me to tap them with a mallet. Every time I tapped in one place, it moved something somewhere else. I was always just chasing my tail. Finally, I realized that I had done something similar at the bottom of the cabinets to get everything level - basically using bolts and tee nuts as adjustable feet. I stopped what I was doing and did a little thinking to adapt the feet idea to this and voila. Once I had it built, adjusting the miter saw was a breeze. I hope to replace the miter saw one day with one that is a little more compact so it doesn't protrude into my path quite as much. When I do, I know readjusting for the new saw will be easy.

Thanks

Thanks for watching!

Thanks, Tony, for the comment and subscription. I just subscribed to your channel, as well.

You're welcome and thanks for the comment.

I'm glad to hear that was useful. The little dehumidifier made a huge difference in the felt performance of the minisplit. I am a big believer in relative humidity being just as important, if not more, than the temp.

Geaux Tigers!

Oh, man. Sorry about that. If it makes you feel any better, I must have shut down my shop a dozen times while editing the video. Thanks for the compliment.

@@liberatingwood Classic. :)

Thanks, James!

Thank you.

Sorry but you're right that is funny. I must have shut down my shop at least a half dozen times while I was editing that portion of the video.

Also, how do you like your Jet JDP 17 drill press? I have this one on my shortlist.

@@supersproodle I like it just fine. It is the only drill press I have ever owned so I can't really compare it to others. I can't say how good the runout is compared to other options but I don't feel like that has ever been an issue. The one time I remember thinking it might have a problem, it turned out to be the drill bit so I think the machine is fine in that regard. I just need to make sure I am using good quality bits. It definitely meets my needs such as they are. I find the laser system useless and don't use it. I feel a little silly admitting this but I didn't realize when I ordered it several years ago that you have to move belts to change the speed. That hasn't been a big deal. I have it set at a speed that seems to work just fine for the sizes of drill bits that I commonly use. I rarely find that I need to change the speed. I used it for a few years with only the table that it came with and clamps. That being said, the Woodpeckers table and fence upgrade has been very nice. However, I'm sure there are cheaper ways to add a fence and stops. All in all, I have been perfectly happy with it but again, I don't have anything to compare it to.

Thanks, Brian.

Thanks, John. I looked at getting that. In the end, I decided to add the window to the side of the bin. I thought that way I could check the level as well as know when it is full. I know I won't have the big blinking light to warn me should I fail to notice the level getting too high but given the small size of my shop, I'm counting on always noticing.

@@liberatingwood You always have the option of adding it down the road if you want.

@@johnhupp8444 Good point.

Thank you!

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate that.

Thanks!

Thanks, Doug!

Good prices and I have had good experiences with their service, as well. Glad I could turn someone on to them.

Yep

Thanks for the tips. I have also looked at the Makita LS1219L. It is a change I plan to make just not sure when. Thanks, again.

Thanks for the feedback. I do have this short video I took a few years ago walking through the treehouse when I finished it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mp2ddqphmNe7fGQ.html You may have already seen that, though, if you saw the treehouse on my website. It would be fun to make a video discussing the building of the treehouse but it was built a number of years ago now and I might have a hard time remembering enough details to make it useful. Looking back, it would have been nice if I had better documented the construction. Thanks again.

Those were some of the first drawers I ever built years ago. They went into my first miter saw station. I saved them thinking I would put them into something in this new shop but they never really found a home until I came up with the idea of making them rolling drawers under the workbench. I'll make a note to put something on my website about how I made them into "floor drawers" sometime. When I do I will reply again with a link. Take care.

Thanks for the tips. I probably won't get to doing anything about the workbench for at least a few months but I definitely appreciate the input. Also, thanks for the idea of updating the shop tour yearly. It was definitely a huge boost to do the first one. Thanks, again and take care.

Thanks! In another room in the basement, there is a regular dehumidifier. It runs 8 or 9 months during the year around here in East Tennessee, though, it really only runs a lot during the actual summer months. My shop is isolated from the rest of the basement so I also have a little dehumidifier in here. It is a small desiccant dehumidifier (amzn.to/3xsFzCq). I leave it on auto all year but it doesn't really do anything in the winter.

Thanks for the comment. That dust collection arm over the table saw is something I found on the Rockler website (www.rockler.com/universal-dust-collection-port). There are some things I like about it and other things that I don't. I have ideas of what I would like to do to improve it but haven't gotten around to implementing any of them. I'll put it on my list to make a short video about it.

Hey. Based on your comment, I just made and published a video about the overhead dust collection arm for the table saw: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o76CaKp43pbXmmg.html

No. It isn't PEX. It's this kit I purchased from Amazon. amzn.to/3JpngVv One of the best additions to my shop. Much better than dragging a hose around. I use the air more since it is more convenient.

Thanks. I think it was this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-ft-5200-Lumens-LED-Wraparound-Light-Garage-Light-Shop-Light-Office-Warehouse-Lighting-120-277v-4000K-Bright-White-54677641/207050927 There should also be a 2' version. I used a combination of the two sizes. My purchase history doesn't go back far enough for me to confirm this but this looks right. The Specifications section on the site says that the CRI is 90. Hope this helps.

Good luck. Hope it all works out well.

Thanks. For my small shop it works out great. The trickiest part was working out the dimensions so I could get as much outfeed space as possible but still allow the table to completely fold out of the way. Here is a link to the hinges I used for the folding legs: amzn.to/3uglQne That is an affiliate link. It doesn't change your cost but if you do end up buying them, Amazon will throw a few cents my way. Just so you know, the main hinge on the table is a piano or continuous hinge. I'm pretty sure I got it at Home Depot. Take care and thanks for the comment.

@@liberatingwood Thank you. I'm not ready to build yet, but I will make sure you get the recognition $$, when i am.

Got it and thanks for offering to use my link.

Thanks for the tip

So this may be a bit of a long reply but I spent a lot of time on this and I'm hoping that some of what I have to say may be helpful to you. My first shop in this basement just had unfinished concrete floors and it was a pain to clean up. As concrete goes, it was fairly smooth but not smooth enough so I knew that finishing the floor in here was a must. The problem was figuring out what to do. I read and researched for hours. I spend tons of time at big box stores looking at the stuff on their shelves. Urethane, epoxy, floor tiles, etc. My head was always spinning because I didn't know how to know what would be the best option. I don't want to have to mess with the floors regularly. What I ended up going with was a stain followed by a urethane. The products I used are from Ghostshield (ghostshield.com/). I used their cleaning and etching solution (ghostshield.com/product/eco-etch-1001) and filled cracks and such with some sort of concrete crack sealant from Home Depot. I then used the Ghostshield stain (ghostshield.com/product/hydro-stain-1500). And finally, I applied their high-end urethane topcoat (ghostshield.com/product/wear-tek-4400). I spoke with a salesman at Ghostshield who walked me through all of it. All in all, it was expensive, time-consuming and a total pain in the ass. I'm pretty sure I used a lot of bad words and maybe even cried a little (okay that last part isn't really true, I hope). That urethane in particular was really difficult to use. And talk about smell. Think of the worst experience putting polyurethane on a woodworking project and then multiply by 100. You will need good breathing protection or you may not live through it. In the end, only time will tell if I made a good choice or not. It has been almost exactly two years since I put this finish down. I wish I could attach photos to this to show what it looked like right after doing it compared to now. It has definitely worn but I suppose that is okay. It gets a lot of use. There are a few small spots where I have dropped stuff and made small chips in the urethane but those seem okay. The biggest thing is just how it dulls over time from wear. I am okay with that. To be honest it was so reflective at first that I am glad it has dulled some. What I really want to know is how long it will last before something has to be done about it. I sometimes wonder if maybe I should have gone with an epoxy but I don't have a way to compare so I don't know if it would have been better. I am happy with it so far. It is very easy to clean which was my primary goal. Secondary considerations were light and appearance. I felt like the unfinished concrete "sucked up" the light. It felt like it made it difficult to get enough light down here. I think the reflectivity of this surface helps in that regard. Also, I specifically chose a light color for the walls to help with this, too. I almost didn't go with the brown stain because of the light thing but I'm glad that I did because I do like the look of it. Well, this went on longer than I had even imagined it might. I really struggled with what to do about the concrete finishing for a long time. I finally just picked an option and went with it. I do get lots of compliments on it. In a few more years, I hope I am still just as happy with it. Take care. Hope some of my ramblings are helpful to you.

@@liberatingwood I am starting from ... more or less scratch with a 20 x 30 unheated block building that was built as a goat barn in 1940; to accompany a "victory garden". The floor was poured in sections, poured by hand, not finished with anything but a trowel, and after 80 years, the surface in places resembles aggregate with the stones missing. It's course. I've been using a 6" angle grinder with a diamond head on it to take out the uneven ridges where the slabs met, just using a straight 2x4 to find out where the high spots are and taking them down to level. Not pretty, but I don't feel them under my feet anymore. In places where the floor is smooth enough to sweep dust cleanly, until it gets swept, I'm one of those guys who winds up on his butt. At my age (54) that's not good. It's a pain to sweep, but - - I don't have any problem with traction. I am almost afraid to finish the floor, because I don't have a very good dust collection system. I just use a DeWalt shop-vac at each machine with a filter bag, so there's always dust on the floor. So I'm thinking of just using a concrete refinisher - did this in my garage, which was so much worse after years of salt/snow dropping from the cars. I bought the 50 pound bags, mixed them one at a time, trowelling it by hand - and putting some kind of acrylic sealant on it for moisture. But I want to leave some texture to it so I can salvage the traction. Your ramblings helped. I loved the look of your floor when I first saw it, and then thought about my tendency to find my feet not under my butt, and think I'll be OK with my "rough" plan.

You bring up a good point that I forgot to mention. My floor can get pretty slippery when the saw dust starts to build up. Not great for traction but it makes me clean up more often. :)

Thanks. I have a little list of videos to make based on comments to the shop tour. I'll add this to it.

Hey. Just wanted to let you know that I published a video about the downdraft table today. I hope it is useful.

I thought about it and looked into it a little bit. Lots of work and lots of money so didn't pursue it.

To be honest, it isn't something I thought about too much. With the cutting action being different, it makes a different sort of noise and is probably somewhat less but the machine itself is still really loud, in my opinion, so I always use hearing protection when running it. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

@@liberatingwood Thanks for the reply. I have neighbors close by and am always looking at ways to reduce the amount of sound that might escape my garage shop. I'll have to look it up, but I'm guessing the Dewalt has a universal motor, which is going to be loud regardless of the cutter. Best of luck growing your channel!

@@HelloAnthony Thanks.

This is what I used for the windows in my shop vac and dust collector bins: amzn.to/37luatO It is fairly flexible. At least, it is flexible enough for that job. It is also easy enough to cut with my shop shears. The stuff comes in handy at times. I just recently used it to make some little shims when building a birdhouse with my daughter (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a5qBps6WxMrbYIk.html). Yes. I bolted it in. The bolts are actually round head machine screws something like this: www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/machine-screws/56312 I used those because I thought it would be easier to smear them with sealant on the inside. I have the nuts on the outside. I used flat washers on both sides, too. I was worried about introducing air leaks so I sealed everything inside and out with this stuff: www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/10090 Seems like a combination of epoxy and clear silicone caulk. Anyway, the inside of the window gets pretty coated with fine dust but it still works. It is easy enough to tell when the level in the bucket gets up to the window which is all I really care about. It was easy enough to do and now I am not always worried about where the level is in the two bins. Hope this helps.

Just replying to my own reply to get it to drop off my list of comments that still need a reply.

I'll add that to my list of videos that I hope to get to soon. Thanks for the compliment on the shop.

This is the sealant/adhesive I used: www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/10090 Also, I just wrote another reply to Tim Sharr that has other details of what I did in case that is helpful. His comment and my reply should be close to yours. Hope this is helpful.

@@liberatingwood thank you sir, i was thinking either epoxy or silicone… looks like this might be a hybrid 👍

Good point. It may be but it is what I have so I am trying to make the most of it. Thanks.

Because it is still just too painful. It was, of course, still expensive but after the quotes I had received from a few places, when I designed the system myself and priced it at Blast Gate Co, it felt like I was getting a discount.

@@liberatingwood just a jealous watcher from Toronto 🙂 your shop is awesome!

@@hockeyer Thanks.