I’m in the process of doing this now. For some reason just didn’t enjoy my X1C as much as I thought I would and had some odd issues. Mk4 is such a classic workhorse and a joy to use

🫶🫶🫶

If that is the case then there are rings you can print to put on the inside surface of the spool hole to overcome that. I use a RepBox so I do not encounter that specific issue.

Also... these types of settings are slicer-dependent not printer dependent.

This is good to know, I've used inland in the past since I'm near a Microcenter but quit using it. I'll have to give it another shot.

100% agree! To be honest, I’m perfectly fine with the speeds of the stock mk4 overall. I love my Bambu but they can’t handle overhangs like this mk4 can (Atleast on stock/ near stock settings)

Now, what do you think if those people would only need to run 5 bambus instead of 20 mk3s?

You can slow a fast printer but cant speed up a slow machine. Every one is running toy benches but not real prints on the mk4 with alpha firmware speeds. Nothing is stopping you from creating a "slow print" with fast accelerations on a P1P. 8000mm/s accelerations is a far cry from 20,000mm/s

@@scifi_shop If consumer begins to have such needs, I'd say they should begin to look completely different things. Prusa is quite nice as they use their own equipment to field test them too.

So excited to see that drop. I’m going to run some test prints and do a follow up!

Thanks! Honestly I highly recommend buying an entry level machine and messing around with it before going all in on a high end machine. The ender 3 series machines are great, same as anything by elegoo

I think Atomic is made in Indiana, but I agree it's awesome!

Notes to the release say that the input shaping adapts to the added weight. My guess is that they make a simple model to calculate resonance and change it depending on the amount of material, which can be easily measured.

I'll have to check these out!

@@Shayway forgot to mention both are manufactured in the US.

@@winslowjoy2629 love that!

I've got several spools of Atomic PETG and it's really nice stuff

Hopefully soon!

You can just order the kit.. and wait until it comes. Mine will be coming in July

Good to know

Check External Perimeters first Then lower the extrusion multiplier. In my case, .95 to .96 worked well

I haven't tried that personally.

The mk4 comes with a standard adapter for E3D v6 nozzles. Just put an E3D v6 hardened steel or nozzle X nozzle on the adapter and use that.

​@@jonathanlin9772have you used it? I've read user reports about it oozing due to the different materials expanding

I definitely plan on doing an update. I've been running some input shaping prints this week!

They really cater to different audiences. MK4 is open source with a great community, while the P Series are still new on the block with great quality and speed at a lower price. But Bambu lab is still a fairly new company that has had some growing pains and scalability issues. Overall, I still prefer Bambu Lab.

@@Shayway The P series really meant to be operated right out of the box. No doubts, I have two of the P series for this same reason.

I'll have to check it out!

If you are wanting to tinker, Creality machines all day. If you just want to print and most things "just works", I'd look into an A1 or P1S

tinker yes im not going to be maken my own blueprints. but there is things ive seen ide like to make for the fact it be cheaper in the long run

@@drekkis12 this is the exact reason I got into it myself. Creality makes great machines, but they take a little bit of tweaking to make sure they reach their maximum potential. If you have the patience for it, definitely a good buy. Otherwise, Bambu all day

is there a type of wire to go with and stay away from @@Shayway

Tough to say without input shaping. Once that’s released, I’ll do a comparison and mention the pros and cons of both

I actually ended up solving it by adjusting the flow

Glad I was able to help out! There are so many good options out there. Interested in what you land on!

@@Shayway I'm trying to buy a K-Max to replace the K-1 I received last Wednesday. It was damaged in shipping, plus, the bed has a depression in the middle that looks like it was created by a bowling ball! I'm hoping the K-Max will be more in line with the X1C.

Love the bambu printers! New one this week too!

@@Shayway Quick question… Are the log files sent for support still weirdly large and encrypted?

@@TraitorFelon.14.3 as far as I know yes

@@Shayway Thank you for the answer. And since we don’t know what data is leeched from the pc, and Bambu won’t tell us, I must assume it is data I don’t want to part with. I prefer Prusa.

How would we know the machines haven’t been out long enough.

Pretty sure you can access it locally like Octoprint (no internet connection). Or maybe that is Prusa Link.

Correct, Prusa Link is local!

@@Shayway I was curious after I made the comment, so I set up Prusa Connect & Prusa Link with a Raspberry Pi 4 on my MK3S+ haha. Just USB from the Pi into the port on the machine with the “RPi port” setting turned OFF in the printer’s settings~ Might stick with it honestly. I’ve been using Octoprint with this machine for about a year, but this seems to have most of what I need. Not sure why they’ve got the “Camera” stuff locked down though, might be bc it’s still in Beta. There is no “Live” camera view - you’re limited to updates either every 10 seconds/30seconds/Every layer/Every 5 layers/Manual. Maybe they don’t expect a more powerful Raspi4 or similar to be used for this sort of application - their guide recommends a Pi Zero W (I think). The “Printer Status” and “Filament Usage” stuff is pretty nice to have built-in. It’s also got a “Bed Mesh” display, so that’s cool I suppose lol. Obviously all do-able with Octoprint plugins, but I think I prefer Prusa’s layout/UI.

It's absolutely worth the cost. It's a workhorse. Proven design, great hardware support, extreeemely long term support, high reliability. Those are its strengths. Not speed, not looking cool in pictures. If you want that, it's not for you, and it's fine. Plenty of other options nowadays, that will fit your needs. It is fast though, not as fast as a coreXY but it's fast.

There is basically no better printer than the mk4 for the price. Very reliable, best print quality and now it's fast as well.

@@essentials1016I just ordered the MK4 kit. This is my first 3d printer, in fact I am new to 3d printing. Do you think the Prusa is a good choice?

@@arbjful yes absolutely. Very reliable, accurate and now with the help of input shapping fast too.

@@arbjful I can only speak for the mk3s+. It was my first printer. Got it after almost buying a CR10S and then hearing all the troubleshooting other engineering students had to do to get the CR10 to print reliably. I love building but hate troubleshooting, so I opted to spend more and go with the Prusa kit. As long as you try to be as precise as possible (especially with leveling and squaring the frame) it runs perfect. The kit is pretty cool since, if you like building, no one will care about the perfection of your printer more than you, and you also learn how everything works. I’ve owned the mk3s+ for just about a year now. It just works with PLA and PETG in my experience. Just dial in the first layer for your build plates and you won’t have to touch it again unless you buy another build plate (can store first layer for quite a few build plates) change nozzles or disassemble. Just ordered ASA in several colors along with a Whambam hotbox. Gonna start tinkering with the more resilient materials. Already decided my 2nd much larger printer will be a Voron and the Prusa will allow me to print most of the parts aside from any super high temp PC I may use. Don’t want to risk messing up the magnets on the Prusa bed by heating it at or above 120C (with firmware manipulation) in order to get the best PC print quality.