Appreciate that, thank you!

Stayed ton watch cause of this comment and figured out the problem!! I need the evap line, if you still have it im willing to buy it off you😊😅

Description is incorrect. Your on about turbo flutter not surge

Next part is already being filmed. Taking a bit longer because it's more complicated stuff, but it'll be proper progress. Really appreciate the support, keeps me going 👍

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

Glad it helped, that’s the same engine I have :)

Thank you very much! Work on the mounts is underway.

I am with him on that one . I need to see what you will do next

Yep keeping the puck, saves that horrible oily smell you get with a filtered vent. The N249 was really fascinating to learn about. Most people just rip it out without thinking about it. I don't know if mine works or not since the engine was bought on its own. I still have it all though, so it can easily go back if it needs to (and I'd devise a way of mounting it a bit neater than factory too). Glad you liked the video, more coming!

That's not turbo surge

@@Wangsian199 when a turbo makes a stustu sound its turbo surge

Thank you!

That would be at the start of every video. May as well integrate it into the intro lol

Completely makes sense on a standalone ECU

I did actually question that. Seems strange to use a solenoid to control vacuum to the DV when the solenoid itself could be the DV. I reckon that by doing it this way, the DV can open using manifold pressure should the N249 fail.

I sent it to Stealth Racing in the UK, paid £190 for the immobiliser, evap and SAI removal. N249 will be coded out during tuning.

Good luck!

The pipe from the crank case and from the valve cover go into catch can, then the can either vents to atmosphere via a filter, or it goes back into the intake.

Anywhere off the intake manifold I believe.

your n249 will be connected to your diverter valve on one side then the other side of the n249 will be connected to your intake manifold, instead you run your diverter straight to that manifold

I'll be making my own line that goes to the other side of the bay.

@@cgten that makes sense, do you plan on making a video on that?

Yep it's all getting covered 👍

There'll be a few places that do it, but I sent mine to Stealth Racing in the UK.

I haven't had it tuned yet, but Stealth Racing removed the systems from the ECU.

thank you! @@cgten

Yes you'd get a CEL, unless you have the systems mapped out of the ECU or you install resistors in place of the sensors to trick the ECU into thinking they're still there.

@@cgten anywhere I can get the resistors or they need to be diy ?

I've seen various posts on forums where people have DIY'd them, and I've also seen mentions of kits for sale, often from forum members. It's hard for me to recommend anything specific because I don't have any experience with it, opting to map them out instead.

Is the cel the only downside? Does it make the car run rich or lean if you don't get them mapped out?

I can't see any downside as far as fuelling is concerned. The only drawbacks will be a vacuum controlled instead of an ECU controlled DV, and you'd be removing a failsafe for the wastegate.

Editing part 6 right now!

Compressor surge is what causes the flutter sound. It sounds like what you're describing would also cause compressor surge, assuming no BOV is fitted and the wastegate isn't doing its job.

I don’t think there is a benefit. The only reasons people do it is to tidy up the engine bay or because they believe it improves response. I think that by removing the system entirely, it eliminates a vacuum leak somewhere and that’s why it seems to have a benefit, the same benefit they would have had if they had located and fixed the vacuum leak. I’m removing mine because I simply have no room for it, I actually think it’s a clever, albeit messy system.

Thank you for watching!