Crazy how this exact complaint, results in this exact repair; for multiple manufacturers. Good show Kenny!!

The difficult starting may be dirty maf sensor, dirty throttle body, or simple cap rotor, plugs and wires needing replacing

Another knowledge video. Thank you.

I had one go bad on me, my 2nd car I rarely drove just mostly on wknds and one day when I started it cold it was fine for just a minute or two then all of sudden it was hesitating barely idling and wouldn't rev and this was in park.. shut it off and re-started it and was perfect like nothing happened, I was lucky enough to have my scanner with me and scanned it live and looked for anything out of ordinary and saw the ect showing 275 degrees so I knew that likely the issue, I replaced it and never had the issue again. Original ect just went bad and was telling the computer wrong info., Nice Video!

Your very sharp mechanic!

My daughter had a car that thermostat wouldn't close up enough, thereby causing to run too cold, which caused it to idle fast, not hardly have any heat, get bad mileage as it never came out of ' warm- up mode '. Good thermostat fixed it all. My wife's car started sending up borderline ' running lean ' code and I came to find the water temp was only about 150 to 160 degrees. I haven't been able to change that one yet. I think it's running too lean for that colder temperature.

I was wondering if the spark plugs might be fouled by the possible rich condition for however long the sensor was reading incorrectly. Or if they were possibly out of spec with use. Amazing catch on the temperature reading.

Without this video I may have been hunting this down for years wow

I’m having ( maybe) same problem so out I go to check it out. Let us know know how things go.

Nice job Kenny 👏👏👏👍👍👍

Your the man Kenny

i replaced all three of mine yes three as preventive maintenance 2 were a pain to get to and one was near the drain so i had to hot wire the fan to run full time

Thank s

Good video, I'm not understanding why you changed the two wire plug. I've seen many high mileage 4.3, I have changed two CTS myself and have never had an issue with the actual plug.

When you get a repair harness from the dealer it comes with the crimp and shrink sleeves , this is the way the factory intended the repair to be made. Just do it correctly!

Why are you using Snap on. Instead of Kingbolen scanner?

my temp sensor was reading 99 degrees c yet the coolent hose was 120 give or take

I have a 1998 Yukon w/ Vortec 5.7 @ 325,000 miles that starts normally stone cold. Hot restart acts like it's flooded and requires the WOT treatment or it will never start. Last week (06MAR23) test driving after a 30°F cold start, when the engine was almost warmed up suddenly it acted like it was starving for fuel. It had a huge hesitation and then a huge surge w/ almost no throttle "feel," then it revved up. Finally it stalled when I stopped. I noticed the drivability problem started exactly when the engine temp gauge was peaking as the engine warmed up. I've driven this vehicle all of those 325,000 miles and all of them with the very same T-stat, so I know exactly where the engine temperature gauge goes while the T-stat opens. I've seen it 1,000 times. It peaks and then comes down a bit and then comes up a tiny bit and then it stays put. I noticed it was peaking when the problem started happening. I was in my own subdivision so I did make it back home, but it was miserable to get it into gear w/out stalling. WOT to get it to start, then it wouldn't idle, but stayed revved to about 1,500rpm. Every time I put it in drive it stalled. After probly 5 tries monkeying around with the gas pedal I managed to keep it from stalling, got it into gear and got it back home. The next day it cold started (30°F) and ran normally while it was cold. I don't have a scan tool and my VOM is not working right, so I have to wing it. I got a new 2-wire Durlast sensor from Autozone for $19.99. The guy at Autozone said it's made by Delphi. They had a Delphi for $25.99 and AC Delco for $48.99. Both the clerk at Autozone and I used to work for GM, so we wonder what the difference could be. Duralast has lifetime warranty, Delphi and AC have 1yr. Anyway I want to Thank You! for a very good video presentation of your problem/ diagnosis and solution. It's very similar to mine so you really helped reinforce my belief in my solution. We'll see 14MAR23. ben

No codes sets up for a challenge. You may look up drive trace.

Why is it stumbling? Youre starting it over and over you should wait atleast 10 seconds per gmc spec.

You da man ! Thanks for posting this. Why the extended crank though?

AMAZING HOW YOU ALWAYS SEEM TO BE WORKING OUTSIDE AND NEVER INSIDE

ahhh looks like a fix! general rule maf at idle is size of engine in liters 4.3 l is 4.3 grams

i wonder why the 6 has the sensor on head and one on the manifold near the tstat.

no reason to start it 50 times when you already knew the problem. good repair though

A word of advice. I like your channel, but you keep saying “I think; I’m not sure……etc.” It makes you look like you don’t know what the history vehicle you are working on. Know what year, make, model BEFORE you start filming and then dig into the issue of the vehicle. Just my take. I follow a lot of mechanics/techs. I want to see your channel really blow up.