Thank you. I've been waiting for this comment and should have addressed it in the video. I used to do that but with the amount of glue we now use it doesn't seem necessary. We have very little trouble. I would definitely do it if we weren't using good glue.

@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks, Bob! I don’t necessarily think it’s required for honey super frames. But, personally, I do it on deep frames for brood boxes. Having a frame fall apart on me is not something that I want to experience again.

Lol there’s always someone who knows how to do it better than the guy who’s been doing it 40years and runs a million pound business 🤣 Bob you’re the man 👍 English beekeeper, pretty much learnt everything from your videos when I started up 2 years ago, cheers mate.

@@chrisallen8631 That’s a pretty rude comment, Chris. 👎🏻👎🏻 Never did I say that I “know how to do it better” than Bob. Not at all. I posted a comment, Bob *pinned my comment*, and I merely said that I feel better having extra peace of mind from stapling the side bars to the top bar. That’s all. Have a lovely day.

@@RyanMcDonnough hi mate, sorry must have misinterpreted your meaning, can’t have people questioning the guru 😜

The best!

That's a great tip! Wish I had thought of that. I make sure that there is glue on what will be the vertical surfaces of the joints since these are what provide the most shear strength when manipulating the frames during inspections. Like in this video I often see people just putting glue on what will be the horizontal part of the finished joint which provides the least strength of the joint since this is subjected to tensioned strength.

@@fredshoney6458 - absolutely correct. The little brush can spread the glue to the verticals so all three surfaces have a good amount of glue. I also collect aligned top bars and apply glue just to the side notches prior to installing them so both vertical surfaces get glue. I’m certain Bob would approve of the amount of glue that squeezes out when I push the bar into the frame end pieces, 😂.

Thanks. We're lucky to have our current crew.

Thank you.

We've been lucky to get the folks we have.

Totally agree!

Some people do that, and like it, but we like installing the foundation after the frame is built.

I was thinking the same thing; face grain to face grain makes the strongest glued joint. I also drive my staple in through the side bar, and add the plastic foundation during the assembly process not after. Thanks as always for sharing the knowledge Bob!

The inside dimensions of the jigs we're currently using are 17-7/8 inches for the frame length (end bar to end bar) and 16-7/8 for box width.

@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you!

I would love to go but will not be able to. Someday perhaps I'll make it one.

Shallows are the worst!

There could be some but I'm not familiar with any.

@@bobbinnie9872 thanks Bob

There are Green plastic drone frames with comb . The best part is to can open your hive and you easily know which frames are the drone comb

@@lenturtle7954 I'm more interested in just the foundation as I would be cutting it to fit Layens frames.

We built it out of scrape plywood. Thanks.

We get pre-waxed. On occasion we will add wax to frames that were in a colony for a while but didn't get drawn out because the bees will strip the wax off.

Hi Oscar. The crew is asking about you.

😀 see you in couple weeks

If I was applying wax I wouldn't pay extra for pre-waxed.

We rarely throw frames away because we sell so many nucs and colonies that our frames are continuously being cycled out and replaced. But if one was to slip through I would throw it away once it begins to feel heavier than normal and begins to look very dark. This would normally take around ten to twelve years.

With the amount of glue that we use there are very few issues.

Sorry, I've not used one so couldn't give an informed opinion.

Plastic frames are nice because you can be rough with them. Throw them in the truck and such. But the also have grooves where SHB like to run and hide where the bees can't get them. I like using the plastic foundation with wood frames for the honey supers. Best of both worlds and no blowout in my extractor.

@@reedjasonf If you have a small yard-20 or less-you could fill those grooves with wood glue or glue gun or whatever you can think of that might work.

@@gary5172 that's true. I still prefer wood frames with plastic foundation. I've also settled on wax-wire foundation for the brood nest. It seems more natural and I don't have to worry about blowouts on those frames anyway since I don't extract them. With new hives I really want them to draw out the brood nest comb quickly before winter (Michigan) and we usually have just barely enough time for that. If it is a bumper year and they can draw out a honey super, great but usually honey supers get drawn out the following year.

@@reedjasonf interesting. We have new plastic frames now to limit SHB. but it was an issue here previously. I'm with you around wood frames and plastic foundation - its the sweet spot for me.

Thanks. I am OK with using a few plastic frames but I don't like large numbers of them in my boxes. Things I like about them is that they are less expensive, they're immediately ready to use and they are tougher when prying things apart (end bars don't split). Things I don't like is that if one is above another (upper and lower box) more burr comb will occur between them than wooden frames, there are lots of places for hive beetles to hang out and if a top bar ear breaks off they are not easily repaired. All that having been said I definitely prefer wooden frames with plastic foundation but will probably be using a few plastic frames this year.

I can't get them anymore. They were sold by The Walter T Kelly Co. (Kelly Bees) before Mann Lake bought them out. They're 100% cotton. I guess I'll have to find another brand when the ones I have now wear out.

@@bobbinnie9872 thank you very much for your time and I do appreciate it very much.

1/4 inch crown by 1-1/2 long.

@@bobbinnie9872 thank you