These steps are just what I'm looking for, thx

I just use my 6" Atlas lathe to get the job done

BS! I put my d!ck in the drill press and make the whole universe spin

AvEryone knows, you're supposed to keep your dick in a VISE. Not a drill press. Thanks - Lumpy

I usually put the bench on a turn table and press play since I'm to lazy for a workout

I don't care who you are - THAT'S FUNNY!

🤣

Yeah. Haha! But How he find the center of the rod? Would need an adjustable guide and no one has that on hand. This is an excellent method especially when you can see the cut rings after sawing off the stub. So I’d have pitch it before sanding it.

@@jeffbrown7246 Isn't it the sanding that marks the center of the rod ? at 0:55

@@tomdiams I don’t think so. I’m not sure why he sanded it. The other end which was already flat and smooth would rest on the horizontal rod to be drilled. (It could be smoothed if it isn’t already) I noticed when he cutoff the rod the stub piece had saw rings. If the goal is to find the center of the rod as closely as possible I’m thinking the saw rings actually provide a good reference which will help see the true center. Punch the center of the saw rings as closely as you can.. Otherwise you’re guessing where center is on a smooth surface. Since he chucked-it-up to drill the stub it doesn’t matter because the chuck will keep it true (vertical) if he chucks it true with a level or such. Then the other end will rest on the rod being drilled that’s laying horizontally. Assuming the smooth end rests flush that will assure the stub is exactly (as much as possible) perpendicular to the rod. Just my opinion but the idea is to get the best possible reference and the saw rings seem to be a natural help by default. I really like this tip. I’ll remember this one!

that's what I thought as well, but I guess the idea is that eyeballing works good enough and it's easier to drill straight on a flat surface rather than a curved surface.

I agree it isn't a bad idea but it's hardly a new idea. I do enjoy watching people "discover" things I've known for decades.

@@ramtek2702 Well there's a new crop every day? If they want to learn. we should show them! I have had lots of old guys show me over the years. Although it took me a long time to learn to shut the hell up and listen!

As KZfaq pos ( much like yourself ) we all know we DGAF

Why haven't your species assimilated robotic technology yet?

@@unitedspacepirates9075 why haven’t you left home nerd

Thank you for calling out the snarky posters. I learned something... so I would also say thank you to JohnnyQ90.

People are still going to bitch lol

George Allen: Syphilis is usually free. Don't complain about it.

Unless its "free" healthcare

Wow, there are some real know it all's here. This is extremely good idea for a simple quick hole drilled to the accuracy of most home workshops. Not a f£#king machine shop. But hey i guess most people miss that he has a lathe and now a 5 axis mill. Also in my experience of heavy machinery repair the tolerances vary wildly for each type of machine and what is doing. Again not the work i do in my garage. Where i have a small lathe but no drill press

The real advice is in the comments.

completely agree with you. This is such a fantastic idea.

Victor ST and no blah blah blahs

It's not the quickest and easiest way, if you don't have a slip bushing of that size. While you're picking it up at the store, I'll have the job done doing it the "hard way".

What? slack?

mikej747 How about telling us plebs how an injury might occur, if we use this video? I thought it was rather clever.

Yep, I’ve seem turners use a pin with play dough stuck to the part they spin to find its centre. Easier than this by far!

i find using a popsicle stick is pretty good for this. you just move the twist drill left and right until the popsicle stick is perpendicular to the twist drill. you can even get fancy and hold a square up to the stick and drill to make sure its a 90. you can even just drill through the stick when you are ready to make your hole

You seem to have missed the point, which is not to measure the starting point but to keep the drill on it. Even with a press I have seen drill bits skid off, break, and / or make triangular holes.

@@christopherbedford9897 Thats what a stub drill or a spotting drill is for. Oh and just so ya know centre drills are for lathe centres only really. Sometimes i use them in hard materials if im in a pinch but normally I use a spot drill with a 120 degree angle.

@@samwalters4205 Actually, those little bits are called "CENTER DRILLS", and are used in Lathes, drill-presses, Vertical Mills and can also be used in a portable hand drill, if need be. It's only purpose is getting the material started in the exact spot and initiating that 60 degree cutting angle for a drill-bit to line up on. Its body is thick, so it wont warp and be defrayed, like a normal drill-bit will do. A center drill wont "walk" like a regular twist drill does, for that exact reason. Center drills are available in many sizes from minute to hugh. One tip in preventing breakage, when using any center drill is to brush on a little Crisco Vegetable Shortening onto the tip of the bit BEFORE touching the part. Do NOT use oil or cutting solution. That almost always results in tip breakage, because it encourages "wander". This "wisdom" is from 50 years of experience.

I'm definitely going to start using that trick

That trick is poor practice because the center gets less abrasion and therefore you will end up with a high center due to the edges getting sanded more.

I see what you mean but still it shows you where to wack it.

he's using the drill press as a lathe.

Ok, he used the sand paper, but he also used an End Mill Bit to get the exact center on the small jig piece... That was cool !!

softer the metal the easier it is

Sure, just don't grip the drill on the flutes if it does not go in deep enough to catch on the shank. I saw too many people with the chuck gripping in the flutes, and they wonder why the drills wobble. if a drill slips, gone is the chuck accuracy. Sorry if I preach to the converted, just one of my frustrations with people damaging good tools, by nit using them properly.

I'm one of those neurotic people (ek vatikaki) who freak out when they see the bit being jabbed in and out of the work. A steady feed rate is better and faster.

shadeburst Actually, by retracting the bit, so the cut material is removed from the hole, there is less friction to build up heat, and the drill bit will last longer.

I have center drills that I have cut off so that I have full grip on a round shank. I do not work around a shop any more and do not miss the smell of a cutting wheel going thru high speed steel.

Makin Sumthin From Nuthin, GOZ.2M8 G83Z-1.200ROJ1K.1F9.2 G80M26MO2 Just something that ran through my thoughts.

9

but then he lost it again

+zumbazumba1 : When someone like you gives me a good idea I can appreciate it, even though you imagine it's common knowledge.

What are you on about? The guy put the lube in the guide so it will drip in to the hole. Same thing ha!

Pip's Woodworking He's an observer of gravity.

Silly people laugh all you want just try it out and you wont be laughing anymore ,you will see that it is the best way to lubricate drills.

The chip flowing up the flute, will remove any lubricant you apply there. The proper place for lubricant is at the tip and this is why though tool type lubricated drills (where coolant is directed through the tool) deliver coolant AT the tip. Pooling lubricant to retain it at the tip isn't a bad idea by any means, so long as the chip still evacuates sufficiently.

Yeah, that may be but the hole is not "exactly" on center!

@@Toolmamon you got that right

@@Toolmamon "NASA"

Works even better if your vice is good quality with a "V" notch in the jaws. If you only have a crappy vice and the table isn't real square to the axis of the press, you can get around the problem by clamping a block of scrap that has been pre-drilled and tapped for a grubb-screw. Then drill into the block down past the level of the grubb-screw, put the center drill in the hole and tighten the grubb-screw to stop it spinning.

He's using the drill press AS a lathe! I thought it was pretty clever. Making this disk on the lathe is easy and makes sense, but I've never even thought of doing what we saw here, and have needed it so many times. Just drilling down the axis of a rod is something that comes up all the time. I could have used this a hundred times! I really also agree with Ratgreen about the setup. It would make a lot of sense to make sure the drill is aligned with the spindle.

There are always tolerances in the world of metalworking, nothing is exact, even with a $1 million lathe) The method with the drill-press probably is well within the accuracy he needs.

*Edit: I obviously missed the point of the comment. Thanks for the corrections everyone.* The method was mentioned in another comment. When the piece was sanded using the drill press, the sand paper left concentric circles on the end of the rod. It might not have been clear from the video, but the center was nicely marked with a bull's eye.

That wasnt my point !

The point was he used a big punch, and the center was punched by eye. So its close to the center.

Awesome! The drool could be used as lubricant, for center-drilling.

@Wise Acres the problem comes when more than one hole is needed and they need to be parallel through the rod!

This. This is the correct answer. This is how you actually get shit done. No reason to overcomplicate.

Just to add a bit to it.... Make a stand of an angle iron to hold your peace in place

because a hole would not be a hole without the hole!

“That’s what she said!” Bahahaha.

h-how did you know that

Fuck off dumbass-

did you mean perpendicular?

No, parallel to the first hole so that if you put a rod in each hole they are all in a straight line.

Eyeballing it should get it close and if you put a stick through the hole and make sure its straight up and down before you drill the next whole it should be very close.

Make multiple vertical pieces and leave the drill bit in the first hole while you align the second : )

TROGLO BYTE Loosen the vie while holding the rod with a pair of vise grips there move the vertical piece to next location.

You sand the short sleeve guide to where it can barely be slid in the vice while the vice remains clamping the long rod. Now the long rod stays tightly in the vice, and to drill each hole, simply slide the sleeve down to the appropriate distance away from the prior hole... Never loosening the rod makes sure the holes are in a straight line down it's length...

Ethanol works great as well, my toolmaker colleague told me.

Peck drilling is very important I made my tailstock lever action! no more chip loadup :)

I agree; not only is it a safety issue, but you'd think securing it would also be fairly wise for maintaining accuracy...(?)

thanx for great advice

No, no no, fully nitrated toluene, or glycerine is the universal lubrication and shock absorption material, be sure to surround area with oxidizers and fuel, ammonium nitrate what have you! What is he making? The guy’s right though, safety not just 🥽 safety glasses, when making whatever dangerous thing likely building! I wish I had access to machine tools and knowledge of it, just for fun, or learning a skill! Wait retired, sound knowledgeable, make me some car parts and exotic cool weapons, should teach the useless kids of America! Or me! You can use drill as lathe,it’s cool to think of solutions, I often need to build specialized glassware from cheaper pieces, I can’t afford to buy highly specific pieces for goofing off as non work hobby.

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

except when the video is about drill sergeants

but not when "dentist" , "noises" and "nerve" are included.

I CAN'T HEAR YOU ! !

Does it take a bit of doing to drill a dill pickle with a dull dill pickle drill bit?

Simplest doesn't necessarily mean easiest :)

Kinda depends on whether you have a self-centering rig with an angle indicator for any variable speed hand held... ...or if you know how to build one. :o)

How about just a piece of 90 degree angle stock ?

That's a very good observation, so in response I would make it vertical by using a square on the vice... accounting for the protrusion of the bit itself of course.

Pity you guys can't use carbide! Kennametal have Go-Drills - from 1mm to 20 mm, 3 and 5 x D. Scary feeds and speeds! See on www.kennametal.com. FYI.

The secret is that the guide rod is the same diameter as the work piece.

@Sam means that if the rod you are attempting to drill is larger then will fit in the chuck of a drill press it wont work, not that you can use any old rod.

Sam Prudden

Old trick is to drill half way and flip part over, bit will seek path of least resistance when it meets with other hole, correcting problem.

The sand paper left scratch marks on the end of the rod, these marks indicate very close to center.

@@tdcmachine very close at even close mate just glad I don't hire numb nuts like this.....

All depends on the accuracy you require, eyeballing may get you to 0.2mm otherwise you need better procedure and equipment.

It makes no difference. That's just being waaaaaaaaaaay too picky.

@@bigkiv47JohnnyQ90 may not have fully tooled mills and lathes like you or I, no edge finders, dividing heads, optical center finders, and all the rest of that high dollar equipment. As I stated before, the scratch marks will indicate very close to center, depending on the grit count of the sand paper used, and the run out of the drill press spindle. It all comes down to what you have to work with and the accuracy needed, would you paint a house with a pin stripe brush... lighten up dude.

Ed Zackery what I thought too :)

look up center finding teeter totter method.

Teeter totter method for drilling into the end of the small piece?

de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zentrierwinkel

It looks as though there is a tiny + perfectly centered on the end of the small piece - but no mention as to how that was done.

A simple scribe mark on the alignment jig would help for accurate repeat-ability, as accurate as you can get with this

@@nikolaishriver7922 can you elaborate?

D K i think that was a very incomplete thought I posted 🤣 I think I was imagining you could put a scribe mark on the side of the alignment dowel piece to align with a mark/previous hole on the workpiece being drilled, so you can make sure the original hole/workpiece is aligned perfectly vertical for your next hole. So you don’t get a hole at 12:00 and the next hole at 12:05, so to speak. You could also stick a drill bit or little pin in the previous hole to eyeball that the hole is vertical. Other than that, I’m not sure wtf I was saying. It was probably very late one night.

@@nikolaishriver7922 On the contrary I believe you are on the right track here, all we must do is make two dowels so that the first after being drilled has the second dowel placed over it to hold it vertical after that all should be reasonably at 12 O'clock.

Virtually impossible to get the line facing directly up, I'd say. Thanks - Lumpy

Clearly overlooking the challenge of getting a bit to drill into a rounded surface... Even a 1/4" bit will flex a bit under that circumstand and not drill dead center without a guide sleeve as this provides...

Drake Kay exactly ,and the having the workpiece in the chuck self Centers the hole even if you are off Center at the start

thats exactly it i dont know if its hollow or solid but long and alloy with allen cap head and threadded other end but i think i can drill a 5mm hole,BUT HOWWWWWW

oh i thought you were going in the other end horizontally

clever though

Aha...you'r extraterrestrial! 👽

I tried that argument to get out of jury duty, to no avail.

😂😂😄👍🏼

Although, with small-diameter drill bits, it's possible that the drill bit can wander off-centre, unless you pre-drill with a centering drill...gee, maybe that's why they call them that?

FourSeasonsHD lol exactly my thought !!!