@@littlerupert1111 congrats! Glad the videos help.

Glad you like it. Thanks!

You are welcome! I am glad it helps.

You are welcome. Thanks for watching.

@@stefanfriberg4358 you are welcome

You are welcome Danny. I am glad you found those videos helpful. Good luck with your boat refit!

Great! Thanks for watching mate.

Thanks for watching!

You are welcome! Glad you find this helpful.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching

Thanks for the kind words :-)

Thanks John! I am glad you like it. I have a few more in the works😉

Thanks! A great boat deserves great tweaks!

Thanks Boom Boom. I am glad you find it interesting. Cheers!

Thank you for the kind words!

Thank you!

Hi Ben, glad you like it! The Columbia 22 is big compared to my little Siren 17.

You are welcome. Glad it helps!

Hi Ray, thank you for the kind words. I am glad you find the videos helpful!

Good to hear. Thanks!

Bonjour Cyril, merci pour les compliments. On fait construire un nouveau voilier transportable (Flow 19) à La Rochelle qui malheureusement à prit pas mal de retard. On espère quand même le recevoir dans les semaines qui viennent et tirer quelque bords avant que l'hiver arrive. Il est plus grand, plus sportif et surtout beaucoup plus rapide. archinavale.carbonmade.com/projects/6600079 . Ma soeur habite à Viroflay.

Hi, glad you find the video informative. I tend to prefer using rivets (Arrow brand aluminum rivets are great) but some hardware is designed in such a way that only screws can be used to secure it. So aluminum rivets or stainless steel screws. Unless the boat is permanently in the water in harsh salty conditions, I would not worry too much about galvanic corrosion on a trailable/pocket cruiser but Tef-Gel is a good product to limit or prevent it. My topping lift is attached to a small pad eye riveted at the top of the mast, I don't recall exactly how i secured the reefing lines but I think I had cheek blocks at the end of the boom and cleats on the boom or mast. I no longer own the Siren 17, we upgraded to a larger 19-foot Flow 19. Good luck with your mods!

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

Sounds like a good idea. I do t have the Siren anymore but will test it on the next boat. Thanks for watching!

@@siren17 oh you,ll missing not having a boat ,i,l look forwards to seeing your new boat hope its a trailer sailer

Yes, she is! Flow 19 custom built in France.

San Juan 21 looks good. Certainly a larger and heavier boat. Did you find the Siren too small for cruising or too tender?

@@siren17 To small. Although, I am a pretty big guy. With the San Juan 21, two people can sleep comfortably in the v-berth, and you also have room inside port and starboard to sit, cook, and eat. And there is enough storage for weekend outings and beach camping trips.

Thanks for watching Ray. Where are you at? Have a Siren?

@@siren17 Yes, I have been sailing my siren for 10 years. I really enjoy your videos because you point out many of the problem areas that I have experienced... except you have very effectively dealt with them. I am in St. Thomas ON. Just South of London.

@@1dominator cool. Thanks for the kudos! Stay safe.

I need the Harken Ratcheting block with swivel cam cleats you put on the mainsail rigging. I can’t find one. Do you have the model number or tell me where to find one? Great video, I just got my first boat and it needs all you showed. I big help to me. Thanks!!

@@craigbachtell1308 Hi Craig, I am glad you find the video useful! I am using Harken's #205 small swivel cam base with a #2625 Rachamatic block. Those are easy to source from Harken dealers like www.mauriprosailing.com . Also, here is a link to a spreadsheet with all parts used to upgrade my Siren 17 with hot links. Enjoy! www.dropbox.com/s/0kkok339rfczcrd/Siren%2017%20-%20Running%20Rigging%20Upgrades%20Parts%20List.xlsx?dl=0

Yes, it will make a huge difference in trailering, rigging and launching. The Siren is tender but there are advantage to this. She can be sailed safely under normal conditions as long as you have a well maintained running rigging and average sailing skills. Also, a fully retractable keel is VERY IMPORTANT for easy launching in shallow ramps and beaching the boat anywhere. That Victoria 18 fixed keel is convenient but at 2', will make launching difficult and take beaching out of the question.

And indeed, the Victoria 18 has nice lines. She must sail well upwind under 20kt!

Our local sailing area is the Chesapeake Bay but we have been sailing coastal areas and lakes as far north as Lake Superior and as far south as Florida.

You are welcome. Whenever riveted, I use Arrow's 3/16" (5mm) aluminum rivets. Great rivets with a nice wide head. For the small stuff that is not under heavy load, I use stainless screws.

Hi Nick! I am glad you find this helpful. Below are lines and stays info. Cheers! Siren 17 Lines and Stays LINES Ft Dia inch Dia mm Furling Line 21 3/32 2.38 Topping Lift 27 3/16 4.76 Main Halyard 40 1/4 6.35 Jib Halyard 33 1/4 6.35 Boom Vang 10 1/4 6.35 Main Sheet 42 5/16 7.93 Jib Sheet 32 5/16 7.93 STAYS Headstay 16'13" 3mm Measured from pin on mast attachment to bottom of cable thread at the turnbuckle Shrouds 16"11" 3mm Measured from pin on mast attachment to bottom of cable thread at the turnbuckle

@@siren17, I'm not seeing the dropbox document and recently purchased a Siren that needs some rigging upgraded. I would like to consider using some of the parts/upgrades you covered. Thanks Justin

@@justinmartin4973 Hi Justin. Try this link, it should work. Best. telecam-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/thumeau_telecamfilms_com/EXkSwCJJtEZHjCW-TYNFevABZ_89Lu_asJ1LSRdsNnEB0g?e=nvUT3z

@@justinmartin4973 try this link, it should work :) telecam-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/thumeau_telecamfilms_com/EXkSwCJJtEZHjCW-TYNFevABZ_89Lu_asJ1LSRdsNnEB0g?e=Lz8Zbr

@@siren17 Is there anyway to still see this document?

Yes, it’s a pretty simple main sheet and setup. That’s said, we have a center mounted cockpit main sheet on our new boat and I much prefer this arrangement. Mainly for the ease of control, from both sides with the swivel cleat being down low and easy to release and adjust.

Thanks for watching. Here is the link. If I would redo the installation, I'll make the furler structural (in line with the headstay with a swivel at the top). Also, no need for the fairleads, just run the furler line to a cam-cleat on the side of the coach roof. www.ronstan.com/us/series-60-furler-only-stainless-st-ball-bearings.html

Hi Bittor, yes, this is the original gelcoat. My boat story is a bit special... It was manufactured in 1986, sailed only once and spent 33 years in a basement garage until the owner finally decided to get rid of it last spring. When I picked her up last spring, everything was in like new condition including upholstery, sails, woods. She was 100% ready to sail.

@@siren17 Waw Awesome!!!. How lucky you are! You have one of the most beautiful tiny pocket cruiser sailboats I have ever seen. I am eager to see more videos. Thank you for answering me!😄⛵

@@bittorarregui I love your "country", I had a Basque girlfriend in Biarritz for a while and she introduced me to Basque culture! Had a great time.

@@siren17 You are welcome when you want to come back here again!💪🏼😁

Hi Jake, I would call Carson at Dwyer Mast. You can refer to quote #818 he made forme. Their web site is not up to speed and not all parts are shown. I got neither the DM 410 or 416. Here is the part list that was on my quote. 1.00 DH4128 Bracket, Gooseneck, Fix,DM-284 38.00 38.00 1.00 DH316 Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", S 9.00 9.00 1.00 DH3143 U Bracket, Heavy 7.20 7.20 2.00 CLP-4-111 Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/4" 2.64 5.28 2.00 CR2 Ring, Rigging, 5/8" x .048" 0.30 0.60 1.00 F126 3/8-16 x 2-3/4" HX HD 6.00 6.00 1.00 F28 Locknut, 3/8-16 1.75 1.75 2.00 F115 Washer, Fender, 3/8" x 1" 0.60 1.20

My boom is a a fixed height. Sorry, boat is in storage now and I can't measure.

Hi, I don't have the Siren anymore but I think you are right, I must have used very short screws with a bit of epoxy. if I recall, the coach roof fiberglass is around 5 to 8mm thick. In retrospect, I would not have installed all those fairleads and just let the fuling line run along the side with a single cam cleat on the side of the coach roof near the cockpit. That pretty much eliminates friction on the furling line and make removing the furler and furling line for storage easy. The furler is setup this way on our new Flow 19 and it works great. photos.app.goo.gl/cXRw43Ei4jRWfMNV9

And you can also install a couple of those on the side of the coach roof to hold the furling line. www.deckhardware.com.au/10mm-acetal-snatch-lead-hook

@@siren17 Yes, a good suggestion indeed. Thank you for responding!

Hi, I think you can buy direct from Ronstan but I bought everything from Atlantic Rigging Supplies atlanticriggingsupply.com/ . Yes, you will need all the items you listed and also need a Ronstan F20 splice needle for 4-6mm Line. The furling line comes un-spliced, it is not hard to splice but I'd recommend you practice on cheap 1/4" nylon line. Also, I don't know how you plan on running the furling line on your boat's deck but on my Siren 17, as seen on the video, I installed a few Spinlock Double Bulls eye fairleads. Inexpensive and convenient. Good luck!

Hi Mel. No modification needed to accommodate the headsail. Both Ronstan units, furler and top swivel have the same pin to pin dimensions than the Siren’s original furler.

@@siren17 Nice, thanks.

@@melstill In order to attach the furler unit with the shackle that came with it, I had to enlarge the deck plate hole a bit. I used a Dremmel tool with a gridding bit for steel. See photo here: www.dropbox.com/s/fy5mxr4eb2qx6l9/Ronstan%20furler%202.jpg?dl=0 Also, adding a few double fairleads will keep the line neat on the deck.

Yes’ you need a top swivel too.

@@thierryhumeau337 Thank you for the reply. Another quick question if you don't mind me asking. There was a FB post about the modified front portlight, which you have as well. Some answered that this was a manufacture modification in the boats after 1982 and was wondering if you could confirm this? Going to look at an '84 model, but it does not seem to have this type of portlight and now wondering if it is actually an '84 as stated. Thanks so much!

@@raymtl8892 Hi! I am not sure exactly what year they added the opening port light but it may have been an option and was not installed on all boats. My Siren was an 1986. One nice addition in the last years was the galvanized steel swing keel which is much more durable and not prone to rust much.

​@@siren17 Un gros merci Thierry for responding! Last questions- I promise! When mounting the new equipment, did you make use of existing holes to mount the new equipment such as your furler line fairleads and the new mast hardware as well? Plan on doing many of these great upgrades, but want to limit the amount of additional holes on the boat.

Use existing holes as much as possible.

Ronstan Series 60 Genaker Furler www.ronstan.us/marine5/range.asp?RnID=034g

I am familiar with the brand but never used their products. In any case, if you look at the big picture, the price difference is not much of a factor at the end. Harken is #1 rigging equipment company, Ronstan #2 and their stuff is well designed, proven and highly reliable. To me it's a no brainer.

@@siren17 Great. I’m always looking to learn from someone else’s experience. I will follow your advice.

I need a mast block and am trying figure out what you used on the port side of your main sheet system. Thanks again Very much !!

@@craigbachtell1308 just my humble opinion. I love to share ideas and not claiming to know it all. 😇

@@siren17 Good advice. I bought a Sirius 21 a few years ago. Due to issues it went to storage til now. Just getting it all rigged and ready. Thanks again.

Not quite so, the headsail has a luff rope attached to the furler.

@@siren17 So the jib halyard just holds the top swivel stationary and the sail furls around the luff rope? If that's the case , then it makes it real easy to take on and off the boat. Nice. Love your channel and you have an awesome boat.

@@floridasailor3732 yes, that is how it works. Convenient but because of the lack of tension on the luff, as soon as the jib gets overpowered, the luff will sag, the sail will loose its shape and become pretty much unusable. That why I had a storm jib made.

@@siren17 Considering the shortcomings, a down haul might be more useful.

@@floridasailor3732 best way is to install the furler on the headstay with a swivel at the top. Harken makes a small swivel for that specific use and the Ronstan 60 series small furler can take the load from a headstay. You then use a hank-on jib and you get the best of both worlds. You can furl and strike down the sail. I have this system on our new 19 footer and it works great.

It says DH4128 on my work order from Dwyer. Link here: www.dropbox.com/s/sikr9lmq42xg3ds/Dwyer%20Mast%20-%20Gooseneck%20Parts%20Order.pdf?dl=0

For short distances and roads not too steep yes. For longer hauls on highways, It’s safer to use a larger car. A mid size suv like a Honda CRV is good. It’s less an issue of having enough power than safety and good brakes.